AMD RYZEN Builders Thread

[ozzy702]

I would say his RAM timings are off. The 4 GHz OC numbers are pathetic.

Building a Ryzen 1600 rig for my buddy. What memory (cost isn't a huge consideration) and what timings should I run for him? We'll probably be looking for ~3.8-3.9ghz overclock.

 

[Markfw]

Building a Ryzen 1600 rig for my buddy. What memory (cost isn't a huge consideration) and what timings should I run for him? We'll probably be looking for ~3.8-3.9ghz overclock.

Probably samsung b-die, run at stock 14,14,14,34:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232217

 

[DrMrLordX]

I'm generally gonna agree with Mark, though you can push for DDR4-3333 or DDR4-3466 if you use some of the timing sets that TheStilt and chew* have recommended. Some of the higher-bin RAM is more likely to get you there. Here's a good place to start if you want more

https://pcpartpicker.com/products/m...00,404500,404600&Z=16384002&sort=price&page=1

Note that I have the Vengeance LPX DDR4-3733 on that list, and I can't get DDR4-3600 out of it. Ryzen's IMC is a bit picky. Things may get better with Pinnacle Ridge, or they may not. We can only hope.

Galax had some okay deals on b-die RAM direct from their website, but if you're in the US, good luck with that now. Most of those deals have all but dried up.

 

[Chicken76]

I've installed Ryzen Master as suggested a few posts back and the temperatures look close to what HWMonitor displays (small differences because of different polling intervals).
However, the voltage it reports is quite high, almost 1.5v. This is at idle, in Win7 using Windows' High Performance power profile. Everything is stock except the memory, which is using the XMP profile.
Do you think the reading is erroneous? Should I be worried?

 

[Despoiler]

Woo I have a working computer again! I ended up buying a Corsair 750D Airflow case. I didn't like how I had to have my pump/res in the back compartment of the Carbide Air 540 and sitting on my PSU no less. I had a spill over when filling. Coolant got down into my PSU. No damage, but needed to shut it down to dry. I didn't feel like risking a $200 PSU. The 750D is epicly large. Also, people on the internet still can't measure. This one review said there is 88mm between the top of the case and the mother board standoffs. Basically LIES. It's effectively around 79 or 80mm with 280 sized rads and including the hang off of the motherboard. It's just like the Air 540 case. I had to front intake mount my rad and fans, but there is an obscene amount of room with the HD bays removed. Pump/res is sitting in front of the rad. Leak test is good so far.

ATM I'm using an XSPC Raystorm Pro block. Idle temps are 24C and stress load is 59C. Room temp is 21C. Custom loops rule!

 

[snstr]

Installed G.Skill Flare X 3200 (2x8GB) in my Asus Prime X370. JEDEC 2400 booted up fine, switching to DOCP then made my Windows 10 implode. Windows now needs to be reinstalled
Next time I'm going to overclock RAM, I will use a Linux boot stick for testing, without any partitions mounted...

BTW... since having reset RTC the hard way and the new RAM installed, my Ryzen 1700X is now rock stable in Linux even without any overclock or manual voltage settings - no more idle reboots.

As I do not have much confidence in the overall quality of my Asus Prime X370 Pro, I'm thinking about switching to a "real" high-end mainboard. And I'm thinking about *not* rewarding Asus again, even though I've always bought Asus during the last few years. Would the Asrock X370 Taichi be a sufficient alternative to an Asus ROG CH 6? What high-end X370 mainboard would you recommend?

 

[Markfw]

Installed G.Skill Flare X 3200 (2x8GB) in my Asus Prime X370. JEDEC 2400 booted up fine, switching to DOCP then made my Windows 10 implode. Windows now needs to be reinstalled
Next time I'm going to overclock RAM, I will use a Linux boot stick for testing, without any partitions mounted...

BTW... since having reset RTC the hard way and the new RAM installed, my Ryzen 1700X is now rock stable in Linux even without any overclock or manual voltage settings - no more idle reboots.

As I do not have much confidence in the overall quality of my Asus Prime X370 Pro, I'm thinking about switching to a "real" high-end mainboard. And I'm thinking about *not* rewarding Asus again, even though I've always bought Asus during the last few years. Would the Asrock X370 Taichi be a sufficient alternative to an Asus ROG CH 6? What high-end X370 mainboard would you recommend?

I love my Taichi. They are rated just about the best.

 

[Reinvented]

Installed G.Skill Flare X 3200 (2x8GB) in my Asus Prime X370. JEDEC 2400 booted up fine, switching to DOCP then made my Windows 10 implode. Windows now needs to be reinstalled
Next time I'm going to overclock RAM, I will use a Linux boot stick for testing, without any partitions mounted...

BTW... since having reset RTC the hard way and the new RAM installed, my Ryzen 1700X is now rock stable in Linux even without any overclock or manual voltage settings - no more idle reboots.

As I do not have much confidence in the overall quality of my Asus Prime X370 Pro, I'm thinking about switching to a "real" high-end mainboard. And I'm thinking about *not* rewarding Asus again, even though I've always bought Asus during the last few years. Would the Asrock X370 Taichi be a sufficient alternative to an Asus ROG CH 6? What high-end X370 mainboard would you recommend?

Love my Taichi's as well. I have a TR build, and a Ryzen build. They clock very very well. I went with a 1700, and a 1920X. No complaints here when using them with good solid PSU's.

 

[seafox6686]

I have a question that sound might strange , all my pc parts have arrived except for the GPU (Zotac has some supply issues). I was thinking would it be possible to just test out the rest of the components just through the EZ debug LED lights on my MSI B350 gaming plus mobo.I know i would not see POST, but at least the debug lights might tell me whether the CPU and RAM works? good idea? or probably should wait....

 

[Zor Prime]

The ASRock X370 Killer SLI/ac doesn't get much love. The Killer board turned out to be really impressive for a reasonable price. Rock solid, it's one fine board for the money. Zero complaints, would buy again. 1700 @ 3.9 1.35v, 3200 14-13-13-13-26 DDR4

 

[Markfw]

I have a question that sound might strange , all my pc parts have arrived except for the GPU (Zotac has some supply issues). I was thinking would it be possible to just test out the rest of the components just through the EZ debug LED lights on my MSI B350 gaming plus mobo.I know i would not see POST, but at least the debug lights might tell me whether the CPU and RAM works? good idea? or probably should wait....

wait

 

[DrMrLordX]

Wait, or use a spare card you have lying around just to see if it'll boot. If you do an OS install with the old card, you may wind up with driver hell later.

 

[seafox6686]

Wait, or use a spare card you have lying around just to see if it'll boot. If you do an OS install with the old card, you may wind up with driver hell later.

This is a fresh build. I dont have any spare cards as of now.Moving to the desktop world after 8 years!! Probably will just wait.

 

[IndyColtsFan]

This is a fresh build. I dont have any spare cards as of now.Moving to the desktop world after 8 years!! Probably will just wait.

I might still have an old 8800 GTS laying around that I’ll never use (don’t recall for sure if I recycled it). If I can find it, I’ll give it to you for the cost of shipping if you’re in the US. PM me if interested. It is always good to have a spare card or two around for troubleshooting, to fill in if your main card dies, etc.

 

[Lordhumungus]

Well, I have finally and officially joined the Cult of Ryzen and put together the parts I've been sitting on since August. I had some debate with myself about changing directions and going with Coffee Lake (as it seems has just about everyone else), but for the time being due to availability as well as pure heat output I think I am going to stick with Ryzen and maybe re-assess in 6 months or so.

So far I'm very pleased with the platform and have had none of the growing pain issues that people were reporting. Even the RAM was issue free and booted right up with the XMP profile set (thank the gods because I was in no mood to fight with this and went out of my way to make sure I was getting quality sticks).

When I get some time I'm going to dig in and go for a 3.8 or so overclock assuming that my temps remain reasonable.

The last piece of the puzzle will be finding the right G-Sync monitor for what I want, but to be honest I don't think they exist yet as I was hoping the HDR, Ultrawide, G-sync, supercalifragilisticexpialidocious marketing speak monsters would be out by now. In the meantime I was given a basically brand new Dell 30" before being laid off, which I think will be just fine to hold me over.

Build info for anyone interested.

Notes on the build and above components:

• The goal for the build was the best combination I could get of small footprint, performance, and heat/noise minimization.
  
• Using the NCase M1, which is tiny and challenging to build in, but extremely high quality and well put together.
  
• The PNY SSD is actually the 480GB model which I don't see any longer on PCPP (got a pretty good deal on this at $161 with some Jet.com sign-up shenanigans, otherwise would've gone Samsung)
  
• I got lucky and purchased the RAM a few months ago at what now seems like a great price. For some reason for like half a day the red version I purchased was $150 while the identical sticks in gray were $180 (actually it seems like that same random $30 price disparity is happening now).
• I went with the X370 board mostly because at the time no reviews or info was available and I wasn't sure if all of the OCing options and what not would be included on the lower-end board. Knowing what I know now I'd save myself $50 and go with the B350.
  
• The godforsaken gigantic and terrible front USB 3.0 connector pulled out of the motherboard and took some pins with it, so I am without front USB (I'll deal with this later if I need to, but for now I just want a working PC and it's not an issue)

 

[DrMrLordX]

Which X370 board did you get, and which B350 would you have gotten? Some of the B350 boards have truly awful VRM layouts so it's like walking in a minefield buying those.

 

[Markfw]

Which X370 board did you get, and which B350 would you have gotten? Some of the B350 boards have truly awful VRM layouts so it's like walking in a minefield buying those.

Its in his build. ASRock 370 gaming

 

[Lordhumungus]

Which X370 board did you get, and which B350 would you have gotten? Some of the B350 boards have truly awful VRM layouts so it's like walking in a minefield buying those.

As Markfw said, I ended up with the Fatal1ty X370 Gaming-ITX/ac over the Fatal1ty B350 Gaming-ITX/ac, Gigabyte GA-AB350N-Gaming WIFI, or Biostar ITX boards.

I skipped the Gigabyte due some funky connector layouts as well as potential voltage regulation issues and the Biostar I felt wouldn't have quite the BIOS polish that I was used to (plus even if this a bias on my part it just feels lower end). This left it between the two ASRock boards

While the limitations between the X370 and B350 chipsets were clear in a general sense they weren't clear in this particular ITX context. From what I read, there was a lot of speculation prior to release that the B350 board might have some sort of OCing limitations such as limited access to BIOS features or similar. Because I was a day-1 adopter, I made a snap decision before it went out of stock (this was also when boards were still having stock issues and I wasn't sure how long it would take to come back around). Turns out the only difference is PCI-E bifurcation and a faster Wifi card, neither of which I care about for this build.

In general on all of these ITX boards VRM heat is an issue, which is partially why I went with an AIO rather than air cooler. I was hoping with how small my case is some of the air blowing inward from the AIO would help with the VRM cooling. Even still, the VRM seems to run about 10C higher than whatever my CPU is at pretty consistently.

 

[DrMrLordX]

Hmm.

https://smallformfactor.net/reviews...txac-motherboards-reviewed#The-Specifications

Looks like similar VRM layouts, with some OEM variance on which VRMs you will get. For whatever reason the B350 board in this review had better VRMs but a worse VRM sink. Reviewer seems to think that you could get at least two different (and mostly interchangeable, whatever) VRM types on either board, just based on second sourcing of parts.

But when dealing with ITX form factor, yeah, you are limited in what you can get.

 

[Lordhumungus]

Thanks for pointing out the VRM component variance. Although unlikely to matter it was something I missed when skimming that review initially.

As for the VRM heatsink, I actually posted in the thread over there as I did get the “bad” heatsink, but ASRock was super cool and easy to deal with and mailed me the newer unit without issue. I had it in hand in like 3 days total.

 

[DrMrLordX]

Nice, you don't hear about stuff like that every day. In fact I've never heard of someone getting a replacement component for a motherboard in such a fashion. So good on ASRock.

 

[seafox6686]

Hello all, so my 1050 ti came in and i was able to boot the system in first try . Anyway i was trying to OC on my MSI B350 gaming plus and ryzen 5 1600 and no matter what i do it doset OC on manual voltage setting. If i try to OC to 3.7 ghz with manually adjusting voltage the CPU just underclocks to 1.5 ghz. But when i set the voltage to auto it easily OCs to 3.7ghz without any issue. I have been tracking the voltage on HWInfo64 for 3 days and even though i don't see it going beyond 1.24 V but i am told by friends/internet that OCing on auto voltage is risky !!
Also i am afraid to update my BIOS (that might resolve the above issue) , in fear of bricking the board. Anybody knows what kind of backup i can take to avoid any bad flash issues if i may encounter?

 

[Despoiler]

Hello all, so my 1050 ti came in and i was able to boot the system in first try . Anyway i was trying to OC on my MSI B350 gaming plus and ryzen 5 1600 and no matter what i do it doset OC on manual voltage setting. If i try to OC to 3.7 ghz with manually adjusting voltage the CPU just underclocks to 1.5 ghz. But when i set the voltage to auto it easily OCs to 3.7ghz without any issue. I have been tracking the voltage on HWInfo64 for 3 days and even though i don't see it going beyond 1.24 V but i am told by friends/internet that OCing on auto voltage is risky !!
Also i am afraid to update my BIOS (that might resolve the above issue) , in fear of bricking the board. Anybody knows what kind of backup i can take to avoid any bad flash issues if i may encounter?

How are you trying to change your voltage manually? Offset, VID?

Update your BIOS. Bricking is extraordinarily rare. It has been for decades.

 

[seafox6686]

How are you trying to change your voltage manually? Offset, VID?

Update your BIOS. Bricking is extraordinarily rare. It has been for decades.

i just punch in manually the voltage. I have been searching for offset voltage settings, but it seems these boards dont have it. Ok so before flashing i should just reset BIOS to defaults and then start the flash right? Any other precautions?

 

[Markfw]

i just punch in manually the voltage. I have been searching for offset voltage settings, but it seems these boards dont have it. Ok so before flashing i should just reset BIOS to defaults and then start the flash right? Any other precautions?

The procedure I like best. Download the "bios" version of the bios, and put it on a usb memory stick. Then boot to bios (in default settings), then use the bios utility to flash. On my =ASRock, I have to press F6 at the post screen to get this to work.