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Zero Gauge Cable

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Originally posted by: harobikes333
Originally posted by: 0roo0roo
well first of all u'd stop worrying about freakin cable.

there are so many other factors that really do influence sound in car audio..which is a ridiculously hostile environment for audio quality. deadening/sound proofing of the whole car for one. speaker quality/mount locations, careful eq adjustment to compensate for over/under emphasis of freq in car.

u think these http://www.motorauthority.com/...fsen-sound-system.html http://www.marklevinsonlexus.com/overview.asp?model=ls etc
use zero gauge wire? do you really think your 1gigawatt stereo really sounds better than such high end stuff? mostly fancy cables and such are just money spent shining turds.


WOW oroooroo. That very interesting links.

Oh yeah, i'm planning on doing the "big three"

I do agree with your comment on sound dampening:

My WRX.
 
Originally posted by: sdifox

Exactly, feeding the amp, which is in charge of generating the say, 2k watts 8ohm rms from 12VDC. I imagine it is a class-D amp which further reduces the amperage requirement. I just don't see how going over 10GA gets you anything at all other than a cooler running cable.

The cable should NEVER get even slightly warm. Remember with 12V the amount of drop is going to affect the amp TEN times more than at 120VAC! 10AWG is good for 30A or about 125W of real amp power. One should allow about 20A at 12V for 100W of amplifier output.

Originally posted by: BlackTigers

Every car audio site and forum and guru and installer on the planet would tell you that's one of the first things you should do in a high powered system 😛

And it's wrong in the aspect of safety. Problem with cars is there is no electrical code so when the thing burns to the tires the insurance pays for a new one.

The only thing a solid heavy wire does between the alternator and battery is to allow the alternator to charge the battery faster OR allow the alternator to supply a higher amount of power (if available) to the system. For a factory alternator this definitely is not a good idea at all. Perhaps aftermarket ones designed for high power sound systems can tolerate this and have safety features built in.

 
Originally posted by: Safeway


I do agree with your comment on sound dampening:

My WRX.



What kind of sound dampening are you using?

I'm using peel and seal from Lowes. NO JOKE. It works wonders. At the fraction of the cost compared to dynamat. So I've used two to three layers even.
 
Originally posted by: harobikes333
Originally posted by: Safeway


I do agree with your comment on sound dampening:

My WRX.



What kind of sound dampening are you using?

I'm using peel and seal from Lowes. NO JOKE. It works wonders. At the fraction of the cost compared to dynamat. So I've used two to three layers even.

Bulk dynamat I got for free from a custom installer.
 
Originally posted by: Rubycon
Originally posted by: sdifox

Exactly, feeding the amp, which is in charge of generating the say, 2k watts 8ohm rms from 12VDC. I imagine it is a class-D amp which further reduces the amperage requirement. I just don't see how going over 10GA gets you anything at all other than a cooler running cable.

The cable should NEVER get even slightly warm. Remember with 12V the amount of drop is going to affect the amp TEN times more than at 120VAC! 10AWG is good for 30A or about 125W of real amp power. One should allow about 20A at 12V for 100W of amplifier output.
I don't mean let cable get warm. I meant the only difference going bigger than 10GA is maybe a minute difference in cable temperature using a thermometre, definitely not something you can feel with touch.
 
I picked up 75' of 4/0 gauge cable for damn near free - used that to install my 1 kW stereo system. WAY, WAY overkill... but it was cheaper to use that cable over buying some more sane sized cable. Still, the whole install wasn't a problem. Channels right by my door fit the cable perfectly.
 
Originally posted by: RaiderJ
I picked up 75' of 4/0 gauge cable for damn near free - used that to install my 1 kW stereo system. WAY, WAY overkill... but it was cheaper to use that cable over buying some more sane sized cable. Still, the whole install wasn't a problem. Channels right by my door fit the cable perfectly.

Haha 4/0 - now that you could keep a small piece under the seat to give someone a serious smack down. Say if one of the "plane does not take off" types happen along...

:laugh:
 
Originally posted by: harobikes333
^ ^ He can go ahead and dis my music. I listen to all kinds minus screamo, etc

Dman877. I'm not looking for super duper SQ. Although I do have custom installed ( by me) components in the front to improve my imaging, etc.

he was dissing modern recording methods. and hes right.
 
I've got a small question regarding cabling from amp to speakers (didn't want to start a while new topic for such a simple question)... I'm running about 25w (maybe 35w peak) to my 4 speakers and I want to replace the thick mess of speaker wires I have running from the harness in the dash to the amp under my back seat.

Since I'm pushing such a low wattage, would the really tiny wires in an Ethernet (Cat5e) be acceptable? It sure would be nice to eliminate a 3/4" bundle of wires for a single, small cable of ethernet.
 
Originally posted by: Raduque
I've got a small question regarding cabling from amp to speakers (didn't want to start a while new topic for such a simple question)... I'm running about 25w (maybe 35w peak) to my 4 speakers and I want to replace the thick mess of speaker wires I have running from the harness in the dash to the amp under my back seat.

Since I'm pushing such a low wattage, would the really tiny wires in an Ethernet (Cat5e) be acceptable? It sure would be nice to eliminate a 3/4" bundle of wires for a single, small cable of ethernet.

I would say ... no.
 
ethernet cable is really small and is generally not stranded. so no
with that level cable...maybe headphones😉 or um cheap 5 dollar computer speakers. 😉
cat 5 is 24gauge. minimum you should use is 18. 16 is cheap so you might as well use that instead.
 
Originally posted by: Safeway
Originally posted by: Raduque
I've got a small question regarding cabling from amp to speakers (didn't want to start a while new topic for such a simple question)... I'm running about 25w (maybe 35w peak) to my 4 speakers and I want to replace the thick mess of speaker wires I have running from the harness in the dash to the amp under my back seat.

Since I'm pushing such a low wattage, would the really tiny wires in an Ethernet (Cat5e) be acceptable? It sure would be nice to eliminate a 3/4" bundle of wires for a single, small cable of ethernet.

I would say ... no.

You should be able to get 4 pair of speaker wire in a bundle <3/4" without any trouble or quality loss for 35W speakers.
 
Originally posted by: Rubycon
Originally posted by: RaiderJ
I picked up 75' of 4/0 gauge cable for damn near free - used that to install my 1 kW stereo system. WAY, WAY overkill... but it was cheaper to use that cable over buying some more sane sized cable. Still, the whole install wasn't a problem. Channels right by my door fit the cable perfectly.

Haha 4/0 - now that you could keep a small piece under the seat to give someone a serious smack down. Say if one of the "plane does not take off" types happen along...

:laugh:

I think with a 4/0 you can pipe enough juice to crank a tank. Maybe not a M1A1, but definitely The Canada Tank.
 
Originally posted by: Raduque
I've got a small question regarding cabling from amp to speakers (didn't want to start a while new topic for such a simple question)... I'm running about 25w (maybe 35w peak) to my 4 speakers and I want to replace the thick mess of speaker wires I have running from the harness in the dash to the amp under my back seat.

Since I'm pushing such a low wattage, would the really tiny wires in an Ethernet (Cat5e) be acceptable? It sure would be nice to eliminate a 3/4" bundle of wires for a single, small cable of ethernet.

http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm

According to the calculator you need a minimum 20AWG maximum 12AWG. ethernet is usually 22 or smaller.


A very cheap source of good speaker wire is at your local dollar store. Shop around in the extension cord area. You can pick up 10ft+ cords that have good insulation and AWG perfect for speaker wire for a $1 or two.
 
You can always braid your speaker wire together. I did mine by hand and it looks really really good. I just used some zip ties every foot or so to keep the braids tight.
 
Originally posted by: RaiderJ
Originally posted by: Safeway
Originally posted by: Raduque
I've got a small question regarding cabling from amp to speakers (didn't want to start a while new topic for such a simple question)... I'm running about 25w (maybe 35w peak) to my 4 speakers and I want to replace the thick mess of speaker wires I have running from the harness in the dash to the amp under my back seat.

Since I'm pushing such a low wattage, would the really tiny wires in an Ethernet (Cat5e) be acceptable? It sure would be nice to eliminate a 3/4" bundle of wires for a single, small cable of ethernet.

I would say ... no.

You should be able to get 4 pair of speaker wire in a bundle <3/4" without any trouble or quality loss for 35W speakers.

I was only asking because I have about a hundred foot of Cat5e lying around.
 
Originally posted by: Raduque


I was only asking because I have about a hundred foot of Cat5e lying around.

You could still use that wire but it would take a little extra work. You would need to use multiple wires for each single wire, but that would leave it only capable of two speakers.
 
Originally posted by: sdifox
Originally posted by: Rubycon
Originally posted by: RaiderJ
I picked up 75' of 4/0 gauge cable for damn near free - used that to install my 1 kW stereo system. WAY, WAY overkill... but it was cheaper to use that cable over buying some more sane sized cable. Still, the whole install wasn't a problem. Channels right by my door fit the cable perfectly.

Haha 4/0 - now that you could keep a small piece under the seat to give someone a serious smack down. Say if one of the "plane does not take off" types happen along...

:laugh:

I think with a 4/0 you can pipe enough juice to crank a tank. Maybe not a M1A1, but definitely The Canada Tank.

Ha! I actually can't think of a normal activity that would require 4/0 cable... maybe some sort of crazy welding?
 
when running 0 gauge, it is important to get the good stuff. why you ask? not for power transmission, but for installation. the more expensive stuff is more pliable and you will be able to run it through your car MUCH MUCH easier.
 
Originally posted by: hanoverphist
Originally posted by: harobikes333
^ ^ He can go ahead and dis my music. I listen to all kinds minus screamo, etc

Dman877. I'm not looking for super duper SQ. Although I do have custom installed ( by me) components in the front to improve my imaging, etc.

he was dissing modern recording methods. and hes right.

Ah, sorry I mistook what he said.
 
I never really understood the whole "car audio" fiasco. I mean, a car is a small place, the stock speakers are more then enough so you can hear the radio ok durring the little time you spend in the car. Not to mention you lose all that effort and money if you get in an accident.

Home theatre, on the other hand, is worth investing more time and money into.
 
Originally posted by: RedSquirrel
I never really understood the whole "car audio" fiasco. I mean, a car is a small place, the stock speakers are more then enough so you can hear the radio ok durring the little time you spend in the car. Not to mention you lose all that effort and money if you get in an accident.

Home theatre, on the other hand, is worth investing more time and money into.

I'm in my car more than I am in my home, or wherever I would invest a theater into.

I have friends in my car more than I do in my house.

I listen to music in my car than I do at home.

Hence, upgrading my CAR audio making more sense for me. 😛
 
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