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What is with used Mustang GT (4.6) prices?

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Hecubus28 said:
Do you know if the original spark plugs are still in there or were they changed out at 100k?

If you haven't seen on any of the forums yet be careful if you plan to pull and check any of your spark plugs yourself. The 2005-07 have the two piece design that is a pita to work with in regards to not breaking them off in the head.
Click to expand...

Oh shiz. The same as the ones in the f150? There is a special tool for pulling them out made by Lisle I believe. Pretty sad Ford never owned up to that BS and left many owners with $500 sparkplug changes.
 
Hecubus28 said:
Do you know if the original spark plugs are still in there or were they changed out at 100k?

If you haven't seen on any of the forums yet be careful if you plan to pull and check any of your spark plugs yourself. The 2005-07 have the two piece design that is a pita to work with in regards to not breaking them off in the head.
Click to expand...


No idea. WTF? I thought American cars were cheap/easy to work on 😛
 
Oh they are super easy to get to, its just that carbon builds up around the plug on the inside of the head. Ford trucks also had this issue. I switched mine out last year at 20k miles and still had one break off. Brisk does make a one piece plug that won't have this issue.
 
Throckmorton said:
No idea. WTF? I thought American cars were cheap/easy to work on 😛
Click to expand...

My guess would be no. When I was looking for a f150 truck in that year range I saw tons of them with 100-120k miles on them people were dumping. My guess was they didn't want to fool with the sparkplug debacle so they unloaded them. Every single time the owner had not handled the sparkplug issue.
 
Thanks, I ordered those plugs. I'll do it in a few weeks probably. Even if the plugs were changed at 100k, I think I should replace them ASAP with one piecers to reduce the chance of breakage.
 
I know a few people that still use the stock two piece plug but they pull them every oil change and put antisieze on the heat shield to help prevent the carbon buildup. I really don't want to mess with pulling my plugs every 5k miles.
 
Shamelessly stolen from this thread on another website:

"Don't use antiseize on sparkplugs.


From AC Delco:
Quote:
Do not use any type of anti-seize compound on spark plug threads. Doing this will decrease the amount of friction between the threads. The result of the lowered friction is that when the spark plug is torqued to the proper specification, the spark plug is turned too far into the cylinder head. This increases the likelihood of pulling or stripping the threads in the cylinder head. Over-tightening of a spark plug can cause stretching of the spark plug shell and could allow blowby to pass through the gasket seal between the shell and insulator. Over-tightening also results in extremely difficult removal.

From Autolite:
Quote:
We do not recommend the use of any anti seize products for installing spark plugs. Antiseize compounds are typically composed of metallic, electrically conductive ingredients. If antiseize compounds come in contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition. Antiseize compounds can also have a torque multiplying effect when installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing. However, plug seizure is aggravated further when steel plugs are installed into aluminum cylinder heads for a long period of time. You may want to consider the periodic inspection of the plugs to reduce the likelihood of plug seizure during extended plug service intervals.

From NGK:
Quote

The use of anti-seize on spark plugs is only recommended on those brands that
do not offer a special metal shell plating. Spark plugs that have a shiny silver
appearance on the metal body usually indicate that the spark plug is
manufactured with special metal shell plating.

http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/contentfiles/pdf/NGKSP-0907-1R-Anti-SeizeonSparkPlugs.pdf

From Champion:
Quote:
Champion recommends that you do not use an anti-seize compound, since one has already been applied to the plugs at the factory.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/475238-anti-seize-spark-plugs-2.html "
 
You're only supposed to put anti sieze on the part that protrudes into the cylinder... though I'm sure some would get on the threads accidentally.
 
Throckmorton said:
You're only supposed to put anti sieze on the part that protrudes into the cylinder... though I'm sure some would get on the threads accidentally.
Click to expand...

Not_sure_if_serious.jpg
 
He's serious. That is what Ford recommends in their TSB's to help prevent the two peice plug from getting carbon built up on it. Don't ask me how a little bit of anti sieze on the heat shield of the plug doesnt get burnt off.
 
Ford switched to different plugs in 2008 some time but they also changed the threads... why? Just to prevent owners of the old ones from getting the better plugs?
 
DaTT said:
Congrats! Please join this site for all your Mustang related questions about repairs and such. The Mustang Source
Click to expand...

BAh...

Sign up on:
www.s197forum.com
The ONLY place to go for Mustang tech specific to those years.

www.allfordmustangs.com is a good site too but the 05-09 section has slowed up quite a bit since the arrival of the 2011+ models

Hell with that, sign up on all of them!! I have accts on S197, AFM, MM, TeamShelby, and the aforementioned... they all have good stuff to offer.

Or feel free to PM me - not to come off bragging, but I've done a lot with my car (2008 GT/CS) more than just your basic bolt-on's so I'd like to think I know my way around the platform pretty well..

For most any common bolt-on mod you're feeling look for the write-ups done by a guy who goes by the name of TacoBill. He's got an account on a few of the more popular forums and like to do write ups that rival most shop manuals

And for suspension advise go no further than Sam Strano or Norm Peterson. Their words are straight gospel.
Congrats on the ride!
 
Last edited:
JoLLyRoGer said:
BAh...

Sign up on:
www.s197forum.com
The ONLY place to go for Mustang tech specific to those years.

www.allfordmustangs.com is a good site too but the 05-09 section has slowed up quite a bit since the arrival of the 2011+ models

Hell with that, sign up on all of them!! I have accts on S197, AFM, MM, TeamShelby, and the aforementioned... they all have good stuff to offer.

Or feel free to PM me - not to come off bragging, but I've done a lot with my car (2008 GT/CS) more than just your basic bolt-on's so I'd like to think I know my way around the platform pretty well..

For most any common bolt-on mod you're feeling look for the write-ups done by a guy who goes by the name of TacoBill. He's got an account on a few of the more popular forums and like to do write ups that rival most shop manuals

And for suspension advise go no further than Sam Strano or Norm Peterson. Their words are straight gospel.
Congrats on the ride!
Click to expand...

I know taco bill back in the days. He has a nice car indeed. I don't think he is active anymore after giving his car to his son.

Have they ever figure out what to do with spark plugs? What spark plugs to buy beside the $18 one.
 
Hecubus28 said:
Oh they are super easy to get to, its just that carbon builds up around the plug on the inside of the head. Ford trucks also had this issue. I switched mine out last year at 20k miles and still had one break off. Brisk does make a one piece plug that won't have this issue.
Click to expand...

The Brisk plugs are fantastic... I run those as well. I also believe that Champion came out with a one piece design but they didn't have the heat range I need so I just stick with Brisk.. Before that I was running Autolite HT0's.

The whole spark plug fiasco can turn in to a real nightmare though if you have the early style heads 05-mid-08. You can get it done yourself if you take your time with it. I did mine twice before I switched to the one piece.

Basically have a good accurate torque wrench (I prefer beam style for this) and you pull off the COP's and dump about a cap-full of carb cleaner down each spark plug hole. then try and back off each plug 1/8 a turn paying close attention to your torque wrench. If they don't start backing off with about 40-45lbs of tq then best to take it to the stealership, but likely they will start to turn and make some aweful squeaking noises as they turn...

Stop at about 1/8 turn and let the carb cleaner soak down the threads for about 30 min and come back out and pop them loose working them out slowly - back and forth until they're out.

once they are all out, crank the engine a couple of times to blow out any carb cleaner that might have wicked into the combustion chamber - you don't want to hydro lock because of it.

before putting the new plugs back in coat the threads and down the outer shield with a thin layer of nickle based anti-seize stopping at the end of the outer shield. do no coat the electrode.

Put them back in - torque to about 35-40lbs. Replace the COP's and call it a day!

Oh yeah, before you pull the plugs in the first place, blow it all out real good with some compressed air to get rid of debris.

The other nice thing about the Brisk plugs is they have a traditional style electrode vs. the strap style.. That way you don't need anything special to gap them.. 😉
 
Last edited:
7window said:
I know taco bill back in the days. He has a nice car indeed. I don't think he is active anymore after giving his car to his son.

Have they ever figure out what to do with spark plugs? What spark plugs to buy beside the $18 one.
Click to expand...

I've not seen him active anywhere in a long long time, but his write-ups are still floating around and are still some of the best I've seen.
 
Hecubus28 said:
I had similar issues with mine when I was stock. I would try cleaning the throttle body and then performing the relearn procedures and see if that makes it any better. I never had to do these again after getting a custom tune.


Pull negative terminal from battery, wait 30 minutes.

Replace the negative terminal.

Train the throttle: Turn on key, wait until the dash lights settle (and you might wanna put down the windows if it's hot), then push on the throttle slowly over about 4 seconds or so until you hit the floor, then let up. Turn off key. Wait 5 seconds. That's it on that.

Train the computer: Turn on key, turn off all accessories. Start engine, wait until it's at normal operating temp, then run 1 minute at idle. Then run 1 minute with Max A/C. Then drive mixed speeds for 10 miles.
Click to expand...


This... and report back.
 
JoLLyRoGer said:
The Brisk plugs are fantastic... I run those as well. I also believe that Champion came out with a one piece design but they didn't have the heat range I need so I just stick with Brisk.. Before that I was running Autolite HT0's.

The whole spark plug fiasco can turn in to a real nightmare though if you have the early style heads 05-mid-08. You can get it done yourself if you take your time with it. I did mine twice before I switched to the one piece.

Basically have a good accurate torque wrench (I prefer beam style for this) and you pull off the COP's and dump about a cap-full of carb cleaner down each spark plug hole. then try and back off each plug 1/8 a turn paying close attention to your torque wrench. If they don't start backing off with about 40-45lbs of tq then best to take it to the stealership, but likely they will start to turn and make some aweful squeaking noises as they turn...

Stop at about 1/8 turn and let the carb cleaner soak down the threads for about 30 min and come back out and pop them loose working them out slowly - back and forth until they're out.

once they are all out, crank the engine a couple of times to blow out any carb cleaner that might have wicked into the combustion chamber - you don't want to hydro lock because of it.

before putting the new plugs back in coat the threads and down the outer shield with a thin layer of nickle based anti-seize stopping at the end of the outer shield. do no coat the electrode.

Put them back in - torque to about 35-40lbs. Replace the COP's and call it a day!

Oh yeah, before you pull the plugs in the first place, blow it all out real good with some compressed air to get rid of debris.

The other nice thing about the Brisk plugs is they have a traditional style electrode vs. the strap style.. That way you don't need anything special to gap them.. 😉
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll have to get some carb cleaner. Or is MAF cleaner spray the same thing? I have a Harbor Freight torque wrench I can use.
I guess to crank it I should pull the fuel pump fuse? But wouldn't it take a LOT of cranking to evaporate the carb cleaner?
 
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