Update on Liquid Cooling System

[daw123]

A highly productive day today.

Firstly, we cut the ply jig for the top panel with a jig saw. Using a straight piece of stainless steel clamped to the jig in a workbench, the rough edges were filed down so that they were straight. Then the holes were cut in the jig in the same position as they are on the fan grille using a pillar drill.

This is the finished ply jig.
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...wilson123/IMG_0831.jpg

Next, we drilled the holes for the fan grille in the top panel using the pillar drill.

Then the top panel was screwed between the ply jig and a scrap sacrificial piece of ply using screws screwed through the previously drilled holes.

In addition, a long straight piece of stainless steel was screwed to the main straight cuts on the ply jig as an additional guide for the router.
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...wilson123/IMG_0824.jpg

Next, the top panel / jid assembly was placed on the table router and the cuts made. Note that you will have to complete the cuts in several tries since the amount of saw dust and shavings produced by the router is phenomenal. The dust/shavings have be cleared away several times from the piece.

A photograph after the panel was cut, but whilst it still in the jig:
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...wilson123/IMG_0827.jpg

A photograph of the finished article:
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...wilson123/IMG_0830.jpg

Note that there were no scratches on the outward surfaces of the top panel

I also bought 13x stainless steel M3, 40mm long pan head bolts from a local yacht chandlery (it only cost ~$4). I bought an extra one just in case. Tomorrow 12 of these bolts will have 7mm cut off them, so that when I bolt the rad, fans and fan grille to the top panel, the bolts will not damage the fins on the rad.

Tomorrow, the top panel will be re-clamped between the jig and the piece of ply, so that the 1" hole for the fill port can be drilled. I will re-measure the piece to make sure that it is drilled as close to the rad as possible.

Once the fill port hole has been drilled and the bolts have been cut to the right length, the fabrication will be complete.

 

[aigomorla]

looking good daw!

 

[daw123]

Thanks Aigo

 

[daw123]

Another productive day today.

Removed all the components from my "old" new case (CM Praetorian 731 - 3 months old). Re-built my old computer in the Praetorian for my mum (re-used an old floppy disk drive and CD burner - must have left my old DVD burner back at my house). Also replaced the stock AMD HSF with the Big Typ VX120 out of my new computer.
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...wilson123/IMG_0862.jpg

Whilst dis-assembling my new computer I noticed that one of the inner most, central pins was bent upwards in the socket on the MB. I have bent it back a little to its original position using a small needle, however it is not perfect. I think it will be ok since if you push down on the pin then it is perfectly in line with the others, however it does spring back to its bent position when you stop pressing down on it. I think it will be ok because when the CPU presses down on it (and it is locked in position), it should be pressed down to the correct position.

On a side note, look at the difference between the Big Typ shown in the photo above and the stock AMD HSF shown below:
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...wilson123/IMG_0864.jpg

For the new case:
We cut the 1" hole in the Lian li top panel for the fill port using a hole saw. btw this cut the aluminium much cleaner on the pillar drill than the flat drill bit did (we did a test cut on a bit of scrap aluminium using both drill bits). See the below photo, if you don't know what a holesaw looks like.
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...wilson123/IMG_0842.jpg

A photo of the finished top panel:
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...wilson123/IMG_0850.jpg

Also removed the internal speaker from the "old" new case, since the MSI MB for the AMD system did not have a speaker header. Installed fitted the speaker to the bottom right of the MB tray.

Cut down the M3 bolts for mounting the fans, fan grille and rad to the top panel.

Fitted all the drives and PSU in the Lian Li case. These do not need to be removed again.

Also temporarily fitted the MB, graphics card (HD4870 X2) and pump/res so that I can start routing and cutting the tubing tomorrow (i.e. I have fitted all the large items, so that I can work the tubing around them). See the below photos.
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...wilson123/IMG_0858.jpg
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...wilson123/IMG_0859.jpg

12 hours work on the two computers today and I am knackered.

Tomorrow I will mock up the liquid cooling loop and cut the tubing to length. I will also clean all the components and bench test.

I must have this all finished by Sunday evening, so that I can drive back home (stayed at my folks house for X-mas and New Year).

I probably won't update tomorrow as I will be working till late on this.

P.S. Sorry the photos are crap; I'm using my mum's camera, and I haven't yet figured out all the settings on it.

I will upload a photo of the two test holes in the scrap bit of aluminium. One is significantly better than the other.

 

[daw123]

I'm almost finished.

I made the final decision on where everything would go and how the tubing should be run.

Cut tubing to length, labelling each piece for assembly outside the case. Drew a diagram referencing all the tubing (see below).
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...wilson123/IMG_0870.jpg

I assembled the loop oustide the case. btw, tightening up the hose clamps, whilst keeping them in position over the barb/tubing hurts your fingers. Pre-tightened the hose clamps befrorehand, so that it was slightly larger ID than the OD of the tubing on the barb. This helped relieve the hassle (and my fingers) of having to them tighten all the way once they were positioned on the barb/tubing.

I also found that the barbs loosened once I had put the tubing/clamps on. This was despite tightenening all the barbs by a 1/2 turn beyond finger tight beforehand. Re-tightened all the barbs, and double checked that they were all tight.

Cut a piece of cable for short-circuiting the PSU out of the older PC. Short-circuited the PSU for the bench test (refer to photo below).

Cut the cabling on the 3x Yate Loon fans. Soldered the cables together, so that they were on one 3-pin connector. Wrapped soldered connections with electrical tape (its not pretty, I know, but it does the job). See the photo below.
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...wilson123/IMG_0868.jpg

btw It has been 10 years since I lasted used a soldering iron, so I was a bit rusty and I'm sure with practice I could have done a better job.

Tested the 3x fans on the hot-wired PSU, using a molex to 3-pin adapter, to check that they all worked.

Bench-tested the loop using the hot-wired PSU; it's alive and no leaks. I used just distlled water for the bench test. I will use the PT Nuke (biocide) and anti-corrosive additives, once the loop is installed in the case tomorrow. See the below photo for the bench test.
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...wilson123/IMG_0867.jpg

btw the pump is noisy for about 10 minutes and you have to top up the res a few times, whilst the air bleeds out of the system. Jiggle each component a bit to help get the air out.

Once the loop is bled, the pump becomes quiet.

It has been running for almost 2 hours without incident. I will keep an eye on it during the bench test. I will run the bench test for about 12 hours (I can't run it for 24 hours due to time constraints).

I also cut a couple of small pieces of tubing. I then cut a slit in each piece. The section of tubing will then slid over the top of the tubing to and from the rad to protect the tubing from chaffing and cuts as it passes through the holes in the bottom of the top pump cage. Refer to the below photos.
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...wilson123/IMG_0872.jpg
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...wilson123/IMG_0873.jpg

Tomorrow, I will drain the loop and remove the rad & fillport.

I will install the loop minus rad/fill port in the case with the help of my dad (it will take more than one pair of hands). I will also bolt the top panel, rad grill, fans to the rad. And also bolt the fill port to the top panel.

Then install the top panel in the case, connect the tubing back up to the rad and fill port and then I will be ready to re-fill the loop (after checking all the barbs first for looseness).

 

[Gillbot]

I do 2 at a time on my fans but I use these: http://www.mountainmods.com/pin-splitter-p-48.html

EDIT: I also assemble the loop in the case and on the system, then leak test while booting windows!

 

[daw123]

Originally posted by: Gillbot
I do 2 at a time on my fans but I use these: http://www.mountainmods.com/pin-splitter-p-48.html

EDIT: I also assemble the loop in the case and on the system, then leak test while booting windows!

I'm using those splitters elsewhere on the new case and in the old computer.

btw 3 hours in to the bench test and no problems (fingers crossed).

 

[WoodButcher]

On your fans only one fan gets the yellow connected, these are rpm sense wires.

 

[daw123]

Originally posted by: WoodButcher
On your fans only one fan gets the yellow connected, these are rpm sense wires.

Thanks for the info Woodbutcher. It won't make a difference at this point, since I'm going to connect it directly to the PSU via a 3-pin to molex adapter.

When I get the fan controller, I will sort out the wiring to the fans. To do this, do I just cut the yellow cables from two of the fans?

Edit: @ Woodbutcher and/or Aigo. What do you guys think of what I've done so far; are there any obvious mistakes?

I will post photos of the completed build tomorrow.

btw 5 hours into the bench test and no leaks or problems.

 

[daw123]

I've just had a look at Infrnl's thread and I'm tempted by Gillbot's recommendation:
http://www.scan.co.uk/Product....=838520&source=froogle

It's only £5.00 more than the Sunbeam Rheobus Extreme and looks a lot better, although it can only control 4 fans, not 6 (but what the hell).

 

[Gillbot]

The downside to the kaze master is, I believe it's only ~12 watts per channel. If your fans are below that limit, you should be fine.

 

[WoodButcher]

Originally posted by: daw123
When I get the fan controller, I will sort out the wiring to the fans. To do this, do I just cut the yellow cables from two of the fans?

Edit: @ Woodbutcher and/or Aigo. What do you guys think of what I've done so far; are there any obvious mistakes? not yet!

Yes, cut or disconnect all but one of the yellow wires in a flock of fans. One fan will be representative of the group. Even without the fan control you still have the option of 12 or 5 volts at the molex . Swap the pins in the fan side of the 4 pin molex to connect to the 5 rather than the 12.

 

[daw123]

Thanks for the responses, Gillbot and Woodbutcher. I haven't a clue what the power draw from each fan is - I will have to check to see if the Kaze Master will handle it.

On a side note: I've ran the bench test for about 10 hours without a single leak (or sign of a drip of water).

I've drained the system and will leave it to dry over night (it's 3am in the UK at the moment). I've also disconnected the rad and fill port, so the remainder of the loop can be installed in the case.

The case has been prepped for the basics of the loop to be installed - the graphics card, MB and MB tray have been removed.

I figure that I will install the CPU block on the CPU first (due to the CPU block retention bracket). Then I will fit the MB to the tray and maneuver the tray and basic loop into the case.

I can then bolt the pump to the bottom of the case.

After that the rad, rad grille and fans can be fitted to the top panel and then the top panel will be loosely fitted in the case, so that I can reconnect the tubing to the rad (and more importantly battle with the bloody hose clamps). Also the fill port can be installed.

I will triple check that all the barbs are tightly fitted. I also need to fit all the connectors on to the MB and PSU.

Then fill the ah heck up, switch it on and wait for it to leak like a sieve

Does the above sound like a good plan (except for the latter part of the last sentence)?

 

[WoodButcher]

One last goodie for you, Have lots of paper towels close to hand while filling and when you first boot have a few small bits under places that may leak. If you do have a drip it will show on a paper towel or tissue and give you time to shut down.

 

[aigomorla]

yummmy kaze master..

you should of expected me to be using one.

http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_1087.jpg

From left to right:
Temp1: CPU water coolant temp
Temp2: Ambient air temp at CPU rad intake
Temp3: Ambient air temp at GPU rad intake
Temp4: GPU water coolant temp.

Okey i better run b4 i get turned into an adverb again.

 

[daw123]

Question: What's the quickest way to kill a CPU?
Answer: Drop it on the floor.

I was cleaning the heat spreader on the chip prior to installation in the MB and it fell out of the protective cover on to the floor. Lots of expletives later...

The drop slightly bent one corner of the processor. See the photo below:
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...wilson123/IMG_0892.jpg
You can just about see the bend in the photo above.

I re-built the case with the liquid cooling system, switched the system on and after a couple of seconds it switched itself back off. Here's some photos:
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...wilson123/IMG_0885.jpg
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...wilson123/IMG_0886.jpg

Oh' and my dad also dropped the fill port on the MB, which probably didn't help (although I couldn't see any damage). The Wilson family must be blessed with butter fingers.

Checked all the wiring in the case / MB and it was all ok.

I removed the CPU block and CPU for further examination.

Upon further examination, I noted that the top of the CPU had a hairline crack across where it had bent.

One expensive key-chain:
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...wilson123/IMG_0889.jpg

So, I'm using the old computer now.

I've had a look on the 'Net and fleabay and the price of the QX9770 has not come down since I bought it despite the release of Nehelam (its still about £600)

I've decided that I'm going to upgrade (after only 3 months!) and buy a X58 MB and I7 920 and maybe some more RAM, which will cost about the same as buying the QX9770. At least I can re-use the two RAM sticks on the new MB.

I'm thinking about the Asus P6T Deluxe or Gigabyte GA-X58-UD3R - which do think is best? I also need Xfire support

My mum's given me £250, loaned me £200 (I can pay her back in instalments), so I only have to find £150 (£600/$900 total), which won't be a problem.

All in all, a pretty shitty day, although I will now be getting Nehalem, so it could be worse.

 

[aigomorla]

daw sorry to hear your loss.

:\

I was scared you shorted your computer or somethign with the water.

But seeing how you dropped it on the floor.. :

Ouch...


Welcome to the i7 club. Its nice here, i'll save you a cup of coffee!

oh and your gonna love having water on the i7.

 

[daw123]

Thanks Aigo.

The good thing about the Lian li case is that I can remove the MB tray from the back, so I can install the MB, CPU and RAM on the tray outside of the case, then install the tray without having to mess about with the loop.

 

[WoodButcher]

Ouch!!! I'd be calling my insurance agent, home owner's, renter's ins, something,,, damn that hurts. Sorry to hear this.

 

[daw123]

Thanks Woodbutcher. I cursed for 10 minutes straight after it happened.

I couldn't believe it - the easiest thing in the build went horribly wrong.

What is even more galling is that if it had landed flat on its face rather than on the corner, it would have probably been ok.

Aigo - have you had an experience of the Asus P6T Deluxe or Gigabyte GA-X58-UD3R?
If so, what did you think of it/them?

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: daw123
Thanks Woodbutcher. I cursed for 10 minutes straight after it happened.

I couldn't believe it - the easiest thing in the build went horribly wrong.

What is even more galling is that if it had landed flat on its face rather than on the corner, it would have probably been ok.

Aigo - have you had an experience of the Asus P6T Deluxe or Gigabyte GA-X58-UD3R?
If so, what did you think of it/them?

The asus if your not a hardcore overclocker.

The gigabyte UD5 not UD3 if you are.

 

[daw123]

Thanks Aigo

 

[daw123]

Aigo,

I've had a look on the web and the UD5 and Asus are the same price. Plus the UD5 can be bought from a shop 10 minutes drive from where my parents live.
http://www.novatech.co.uk/nova...ecpage.html?gig-x58ud5

Also, I'm considering the I7 940 - there's a fleabay shop which sells it retail for £400 all inclusive. In your experience is it worth the additional £170 over the 920. I know this is subjective, but does the 940 generally yield much higher overclocks to the 920, or it similar to the overclock differences between the QX9770 and QX9650 (i.e. about 200-300MHz)?

NO EBAY LINKS

The UD5 MB, I7 940 and EK Socket 1366 back plate would bring the total to £650 - not that much above my budget. I can always buy the additional stick of RAM at a later date.

(I'm not sure if links to eBay are allowed - I'm sure a mod will advise)
I advised, NO EBAY LINKS
Anandtech Moderator
Gillbot

 

[BTRY B 529th FA BN]

Hey, just found your thread! ***subscribed***

 

[Pelu]

omg