Poll: 10" or 12" woofer

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fyleow

Platinum Member
Jan 18, 2002
2,915
0
0
Originally posted by: nan0bug
Originally posted by: Shockwave
Originally posted by: Apex
Originally posted by: nan0bug
Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
Originally posted by: Tetsuo
Originally posted by: Ronstang
Properly done 8 inch woofers are superior for quality/tight bass.....

:beer: Someone with teh brains speaks!

:Q its the beer man, put it down. what he just say was completely FALSE.

MIKE


No, its not, although a perfect setup would use some high powered 8s for tigher bass and a lower powered 15 for more resonance.

Sadly mistaken.


You must forgive the nubs of audio. Most of them think smaller cones = tighter bass. Its the myth that wont die, along with amps having "sound quality" If we could get rid of those two we'd be ALOT better off.

Its quite simple really. Less surface to move means a quicker response to frequency changes, however it sacrifices the ability to hit as low or as hard as larger subs. I guess you're going to tell me that midbass drivers are a waste of money next, right?

Just because the music you listen to doesn't bring out the difference in sound quality doesn't mean it doesn't exist. If you doubt me I suggest you pick up some drum and bass and tell me how 'clean' it sounds on a pair of 15s.

nan0bug is right, try playing a very complicated bass heavy passage with 15s and then the same with 8s or 10s. The 15s will not sound anywhere near as accurate. If you're playing mainstream rap music which has a "thump" every 30 seconds then yeah, the 15s will be better.

A great example is Etymotic headphones which have extremely tiny drivers. As a result they sound "quicker" and can reproduce high frequencies really well, giving them an almost electrostatic like sound. I've listened to electrostatic speakers, tube amps, high end solid state so I know a little about high end audio.

 

Viperoni

Lifer
Jan 4, 2000
11,084
1
71
Originally posted by: nan0bug
Originally posted by: Shockwave
Originally posted by: Apex
Originally posted by: nan0bug
Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
Originally posted by: Tetsuo
Originally posted by: Ronstang
Properly done 8 inch woofers are superior for quality/tight bass.....

:beer: Someone with teh brains speaks!

:Q its the beer man, put it down. what he just say was completely FALSE.

MIKE


No, its not, although a perfect setup would use some high powered 8s for tigher bass and a lower powered 15 for more resonance.

Sadly mistaken.


You must forgive the nubs of audio. Most of them think smaller cones = tighter bass. Its the myth that wont die, along with amps having "sound quality" If we could get rid of those two we'd be ALOT better off.

Its quite simple really. Less surface to move means a quicker response to frequency changes, however it sacrifices the ability to hit as low or as hard as larger subs. I guess you're going to tell me that midbass drivers are a waste of money next, right?

Just because the music you listen to doesn't bring out the difference in sound quality doesn't mean it doesn't exist. If you doubt me I suggest you pick up some drum and bass and tell me how 'clean' it sounds on a pair of 15s.

It actually has little to do with either cone area or moving mass.

Read this link: http://www.adireaudio.com/tech_papers/woofer_speed.htm

Also it should be noted that you can get 8's to hit just as low as a 15, but it would require TONS of excursion and lots of power due to it having disturbingly low efficiency.
It's also possible to make a 15" sub work great in a 1cf sealed box, but you sacrifice efficiency and deep-bass extension, giving it the FR curve typical of a much smaller sub.

It should be said that frequency response ("punchy midbass, back massaging deep bass") and the time domain ("Transient Response", accuracy) can be easily confused.
 

KokomoGST

Diamond Member
Nov 13, 2001
3,758
0
0
One of my friends is a car audio geek... he decided to go with one 10" with a good deal of proper acoustic work, setup, placement, etc.

He consistently embrasses people with 2 12" subs... man do they get PO'ed when his one sub kicks more bass than their big@$$ setup.
 

95SS

Golden Member
Nov 30, 2003
1,630
0
76
Originally posted by: fyleow
Originally posted by: 95SS
Originally posted by: Shockwave
Originally posted by: fyleow
Originally posted by: Shockwave
Originally posted by: 95SS
along with amps having "sound quality"

I wish some "audiophiles" would step up and takes RC's $10K test. Maybe that would shut them up!!

:evil:

Some have. All failed. The myth continues.....

Wow so there is no sound quality difference between amps? Good one.

You're going to start telling me there's no difference between 128kbps MP3 and CD audio too right?


rolleye.gif


Your an idiot too. An amp AMPLIFIES, hence its name. If it does something else, its not an AMPLIFIER is it. Again, until you do a little research, help yourself to a cup of STFU and let the big peoples talk eh?


Don't waste your keystrokes. Some people can't be saved. You just have to let them go.

Okay genius then why are tube amps still being produced? Solid state amplifiers are so much easier to make and yet there are people who still prefer tubes. I'm sure it's all in psychological right? Companies like Texas Instruments throw money into amplifier R&D for fun?


Read this :

THE $10,000 AMPLIFIER CHALLENGE RULES {April 21, 2000}
By Richard Clark

There is no question that all amps are not the same. It is very easy to
measure large differences in the performance of amplifiers. This is true in
nearly every known specification, including power, noise, distortion, etc.
My experience has led me to believe that even though these differences can
be easily measured, hearing those differences may not be so easy. Given the
relatively small magnitude of performance differences, there is a giant step
between amplifier performance and our ability to hear performance
differences.
It is claimed by designers, manufacturers and especially salespersons
that differences in amplifiers are clearly audible. Reasons include
"obvious" advantages of one type of circuit topology over another. For
example, it is claimed that certain designs have a smoother midrange
response whereas other amplifiers exhibit tighter bass. Tube fanatics claim
that tube amplifiers have that "warm" sound we all need in our systems.
Such descriptive terms are certainly subject to personal
interpretation. It is not my intention to determine if one particular
amplifier is better than another amplifier. Differences in the quality of
the discrete components and constructions are more appropriate for settling
the issue of "good - better - best." The sole purpose of my amplifier
challenge is to determine if the differences in amplifiers are audible.

What differences are Audible?

I believe the perceived differences in amplifiers are all due to
various factors that can be explained with basic physics and elementary
psychoacoustics. For instance, if two amplifiers are not carefully matched
in volume, and one amp is slightly louder than the other, then it would be a
simple matter to detect such a difference. In such an example it is
important to understand that it is not the circuit topology, quality of the
component, design excellence, or superb marketing and packaging that caused
the noticeable difference - it was an error in the test setup! It is my
present belief that as long as a modern amplifier is operated within its
linear range (below overload), the differences between amps are inaudible to
the human ear.

Comparing Amps

The idea here is for a test subject to scientifically demonstrate
his/her ability to hear differences in amplifiers. It is our job to
carefully match the amps so that we are comparing "apples to apples" instead
of "oranges to frogs." This means that we sure wouldn't want to compare one
amplifier that had + 12 dB of high frequency boost against another amplifier
that was adjusted for + 12 dB of bass boost. Such a test would be easy to
pass - even on identical amplifiers with consecutive serial numbers.
For our comparison test, we aren't concerned with which amplifier
sounds best to the test subject. We only require that the listener be able
to identify each amplifier when it is powering the speakers. Since many
folks seem to believe that amplifiers have some kind of distinctive sonic
character, this test should be easy to pass. Right? After all, we're talking
about comparing those harsh sounding, high distortion, squeaky "widget As"
to those warm sounding, smooth, bass hog "widget Bs."
Now pay particular attention to the following sections. Since we're
looking for differences in amplifiers, and we already know that those
differences are probably going to be very, very small, it is important that
the parameters under our control be carefully adjusted so as to be equal as
possible. This means that we must be cognizant of differences we might
unknowingly introduce between amp A and amp B. They must be adjusted as
identical as possible. We already mentioned the importance of volume. The
same goes for the L and R balance. It sure would be easy to choose an
amplifier that exhibited left side bias over a balanced amp. Right?
Well, in order to keep this amplifier comparison test fair, there are a
few other parameters that must be considered. I'll list them all in the
following section.


Amplifier Comparison Test Conditions

1. Amplifier gain controls - of both channels - are matched to within +- .05
dB.

2. Speaker wires on both amps are properly wired with respect to polarity.
(+ and -)

3. That neither amp has signal phase inversion. If so correction will be
made in #2 above.

4. That neither amp is loaded beyond its rated impedance.

5. That all amplifiers with signal processors have those circuits bypassed.
This includes bass boost circuits, filters, etc. If frequency tailoring
circuits cannot be completely bypassed an equalizer will be inserted in the
signal path of one (only one and the listener can decide which) of the amps
to compensate for the difference. Compensation will also be made for input
and output loading that affects frequency response. Since we are only
listening for differences in the sonic signature of circuit topology, the
addition of an EQ in one signal path only should make the test even easier.

6. That neither amp exhibits excessive noise (including RFI).

7. That each amp can be properly driven by the test setup. Not normally a
problem but it is theoretically a problem.

8. That the L and R channels are not reversed in one amp.

9. That neither amp has excessive physical noise or other indicators that
can be observed by the listener.

10. That neither amp has DC OFFSET that causes audible pops when its output
is switched.

11. That the channel separation of all amps in the test is at least 30 dB
from 20Hz to 20kHz.

In addition to these requirements the test will be conducted according to
the following rules.

Amplifier Test Comparison Rules

1. To make things easy we would prefer to use high quality home type
loudspeakers for the test. If our speakers are not acceptable, the listener
can provide any commercially available speaker system as long as it uses
dynamic drivers. The actual measured impedance cannot exceed the rated load
impedance of the amplifiers tested. If, however, the tester would like to
perform the test in a car, we will use a car, however, it will have to be
provided by the test subject. For practicality we will have to limit the
number of amplifier channels to four or less.

2. Amplifiers will be powered from the same power supply at a nominal 14
volts DC. (any voltage is OK as long as it is the same for both amps)

3. The test can be conducted at any volume desired; however, the amps will
not be allowed to clip. In other words, listening volume can not exceed the
power capacity of the smallest amp of the pair being tested. (power capacity
will be defined as clipping or 2%THD 20Hz to 10kHz, whichever is less)

4. No test signals can be used - only commercially available music.

5. The listener can compare two amps at a time for as long as desired. For
practical reasons we would like to keep this at least no more than a few
hours. A test session will consist of 12 A/B sequences. Passing the test
will require a positive identification of each amp for all 12 sequences.
Remember, guessing will get you about 6 out of 12. If the differences are so
great, and a subject can really hear the difference, then he/she should be
able to do so for all 12 sequences.

6. To win the $10,000.00, the listener must pass two complete sessions of 12
comparisons. Passing the test means 24 correct responses.* The amp of choice
can be compared to the same or a different amp in each session - challengers
choice. We have many amplifiers in our demo inventory such as, but not
limited to, Alpine, Rockford, Kicker, Phoenix Gold, Precision Power, MTX,
Adcom, Kenwood, Pioneer, Sony, etc. You can pick any of them or bring your
own.

7. All amps must be brand name, standard production, linear voltage
amplifiers. This does not exclude high current amps. Amps can not be
modified and must meet factory specs. They must be "car audio amplifiers
designed to be powered from a car's electrical system."

8. Failure of an amp (this includes thermal shutdown) during the test will
require that the test be repeated after repair or replacement or cooling of
the amp. This means that the entire test session will have to be repeated.

9. The amps will not be overloaded during the session from either a voltage
or current requirement.

10. To save time the listener will have to pass a quick 8 trial session to
qualify for the extended 2 session test for the money prize. Any 2 amps can
be used for this test. Passing this qualifying test will require at least 6
out of 8 correct answers.

11. The amplifier power up and/or power down sequence will not be acceptable
for comparison. (The turn on/off noises of some amplifiers would give it
away.)

12. Although anyone is welcome to take the test, only subjects employed in
the car audio industry or Car Sound subscribers are eligible for the
$10,000.00 prize.

13. Cost to take the test is $100.00. $300.00 for people representing
companies. Payable in advance, scheduled appointments only. Done correctly
the test takes several hours and I don't have the time if you aren't
serious.

* Twelve correct responses in a row is certainly a lot of correct listening
but $10,000 is also a lot of money for a few hours of easy listening. The
way people describe the differences is that they are like night and day. I
would certainly not have any trouble choosing between an apple and an orange
12 times in a row. When compared fairly I believe the differences in amps
are much too small to audibly detect and certainly too small to pay large
sums of extra money for. If I am wrong someone should be able to carefully
take this test and win my money. Even if I am right, if enough people take
the test eventually someone will take my money due to random chance. This is
the reason for the large sample requirement. If you feel that you can easily
pass this test but 12 sequences will give you "listening fatigue" I am
willing to modify the requirements. Since the way it is being offered is a
challenge and only my money is at risk I am willing to let a confident
challenger "put his money where his ears are". If we are willing to make
this a bet instead of a challenge, I am willing to drop 1 sequence for every
thousand dollars put up by the challenger against my money. This would mean:


____My___________ _ _Your________Trails Required to
win__
$10,000 to $0 =
12 Tries
$9,000 to $1,000 =
11 Tries
$8,000 to $2,000 =
10 Tries
$7,000 to $3,000 =
9 Tries
$6,000 to $4,000 =
8 Tries
$5,000 to $5,000 =
7 Tries
$4,000 to $6,000 =
6 Tries

I will not do the test with less than 6 trails. It would be statistically
meaningless and reduce the challenge to mere gambling.


There may be differences, but not audible. If you can't hear any difference, what's the point??
rolleye.gif
 

nan0bug

Banned
Apr 22, 2003
3,142
0
0
Originally posted by: Viperoni
Originally posted by: nan0bug
Originally posted by: Shockwave
Originally posted by: Apex
Originally posted by: nan0bug
Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
Originally posted by: Tetsuo
Originally posted by: Ronstang
Properly done 8 inch woofers are superior for quality/tight bass.....

:beer: Someone with teh brains speaks!

:Q its the beer man, put it down. what he just say was completely FALSE.

MIKE


No, its not, although a perfect setup would use some high powered 8s for tigher bass and a lower powered 15 for more resonance.

Sadly mistaken.


You must forgive the nubs of audio. Most of them think smaller cones = tighter bass. Its the myth that wont die, along with amps having "sound quality" If we could get rid of those two we'd be ALOT better off.

Its quite simple really. Less surface to move means a quicker response to frequency changes, however it sacrifices the ability to hit as low or as hard as larger subs. I guess you're going to tell me that midbass drivers are a waste of money next, right?

Just because the music you listen to doesn't bring out the difference in sound quality doesn't mean it doesn't exist. If you doubt me I suggest you pick up some drum and bass and tell me how 'clean' it sounds on a pair of 15s.

It actually has little to do with either cone area or moving mass.

Read this link: http://www.adireaudio.com/tech_papers/woofer_speed.htm

Also it should be noted that you can get 8's to hit just as low as a 15, but it would require TONS of excursion and lots of power due to it having disturbingly low efficiency.
It's also possible to make a 15" sub work great in a 1cf sealed box, but you sacrifice efficiency and deep-bass extension, giving it the FR curve typical of a much smaller sub.

It should be said that frequency response ("punchy midbass, back massaging deep bass") and the time domain ("Transient Response", accuracy) can be easily confused.

So basically what you just said is that, although you have a mathematical basis for your argument, 8's will for all intensive purposes have quicker frequency response and will therefore sound 'tighter' than 15in subs, unless you throw a whole sh!tload of money at the problem.

What I said earlier is correct. The ideal setup, taking cost, ease of installation, and sound quality into account, would be some really nice 8s for the tighter frequency response, and a 15 inch sub for the more resonant bass that just needs to pound. This is assuming that he wants his speakers more for everyday listening, and not for winning sound competitions -- not that a properly setup (read: expensive, great install, etc) 8s + 15 combo couldn't smoke a single 15 any day of the week.

 

Viperoni

Lifer
Jan 4, 2000
11,084
1
71
nan0bug, that's not what I said at all. You obviously didn't read much into the link either.

The "Le" spec, which shows the indutance of the subwoofers voice coil, and the transient response of the sub, is what matters.
I will now show you 2 subwoofers, one a small one and one a large one, where the small one will have a high Le, and the large one will have a low Le. The small one, an 8inch, is known as an SPL sub, not particularily revered for it's SQ, and the big one, a 15 incher, which is known for it's good sound quality (when placed in properly sized boxes).

Kicker 8L7
http://www.kicker.com/images/manuals/04SL7%20Tech%20Brief.pdf
Page 32, S8L74, Le of 4.83mh.

Adire Audio Tempest
http://www.adireaudio.com/diy_audio/drivers/adire/tempest.htm
Le of 2.9mh.
 

nan0bug

Banned
Apr 22, 2003
3,142
0
0
Originally posted by: Viperoni
nan0bug, that's not what I said at all. You obviously didn't read much into the link either.

The "Le" spec, which shows the indutance of the subwoofers voice coil, and the transient response of the sub, is what matters.
I will now show you 2 subwoofers, one a small one and one a large one, where the small one will have a high Le, and the large one will have a low Le. The small one, an 8inch, is known as an SPL sub, not particularily revered for it's SQ, and the big one, a 15 incher, which is known for it's good sound quality (when placed in properly sized boxes).

Kicker 8L7
http://www.kicker.com/images/manuals/04SL7%20Tech%20Brief.pdf
Page 32, S8L74, Le of 4.83mh.

Adire Audio Tempest
http://www.adireaudio.com/diy_audio/drivers/adire/tempest.htm
Le of 2.9mh.

thats great. you found 2 examples to suit your argument just fine.

You car audio guys think you know everything about audio. I know many people who are into music production, and I can tell you for a fact that none of these people have 15in subwoofers in their studios because they simply cannot accurately reproduce sound the way smaller subwoofers do. You can produce on one just fine, but when you take that CD and put it in another stereo, it will not sound as clean as if it were produced on smaller subwoofers. The bass will sound either too boomy or too underpowered depending on the setup, because 15in subs by design do not give as accurate a rendition of the sound as smaller subwoofers do. I invite you to ask anyone who's serious about studio work what kind of subs they use. Call up a local studio and ask. Go on the internet and look at some studio setups. Come back and tell me I'm wrong, and I'll call you a god damn liar.

 

KillaBong

Senior member
Nov 26, 2002
426
0
0
What is the point of making them argue with you about driver size? They are happy with thinking they are smarter, and you are happy because you have superior bigger woofers. It is a total myth that smaller woofers are tighter.

Off topic: I get my 12o.14 and avionixx 400.2 this month!
 

nan0bug

Banned
Apr 22, 2003
3,142
0
0
I should note that some studios DO have 15 inch subwoofers, but only for reproducing deep bass accurately. They are usually used ALONG with 12 inch subwoofers and 8 inch near field monitors. They are ideal for hip hop, house, and other variants of the 'boom boom boom' bass production because that is all they really excel at.
 

glen

Lifer
Apr 28, 2000
15,995
1
81
Originally posted by: Ronstang
Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
Originally posted by: Ronstang
Properly done 8 inch woofers are superior for quality/tight bass.....oh, if you listen to crap, sorry rap then I guess that really doesn't matter.

are you part of the ppl who believe 15" woofers can only be sloppy??

edit: cuz i believe my 12" subs are some of the tightest subs out there, and well, will kick almost every 8" sub in the ass in the SQ department (minus, the one 8 i know of for sure it cant beat which is another eD woofer)

MIKE
I guess you are one of those people who like playing your music for everyone else and not for yourself. The soundwave of a 15" woofer does not fully develop within the confines of a car so you are missing a porton of your music, but all the poor bastards down the street aren't.

This is a commonly held myth. The presure in the car increases and decreases. The wave length is a mathematical description having to do with the speed of sound. it is as absurd as saying a wave length longer than the space between your ears in inaudible. Our that if you are on a 10 foot surf board, you can't feel a tiddal wave. You do not hear the length of the sound, and you don't feel the length of the tiddal wave. You "hear" the changes in pressure, and in the other example your surf board goes WAY up in the air, and then way down, and you sure as heck will notice it, even if the wave length of the tiddal wave is a mile long. Understand?.

 

glen

Lifer
Apr 28, 2000
15,995
1
81
To reproduce music accurately from about 10hz to 20khz, you are going to need about 4 15"s in an infinate baffle enclosure.

Saying 8's are tighter or Quicker than 15's is like saying, "I have absolutely no understanding of high school level physics."

Sound is a perception in the brain.
This perception is caused by changes in pressure.
The level of the pressure change is how loud the music is.
The number of time the presure changes per unit of time is the sound or tone, the typical unit is HZ, which is changes per second.

For loud sounds, you need to make huge changes in air pressure. Bigger drivers are better at this, because they do not have to move in and out as far to move the same volume of air. Because they are moving a shorter distance, they actually have less distortion.
Think about fans, what blows harder a little fan or a large fan?
Do Ocean linners have little propellers or large ones?
If the guy at teh stero shop tells you that you actually neeed to put 4 15" sub woofers in your attic to really get accurate sound, is he going to get a sale? Does he even know better?
 

fyleow

Platinum Member
Jan 18, 2002
2,915
0
0
Originally posted by: 95SS
Originally posted by: fyleow
Originally posted by: 95SS
Originally posted by: Shockwave
Originally posted by: fyleow
Originally posted by: Shockwave
Originally posted by: 95SS
along with amps having "sound quality"

I wish some "audiophiles" would step up and takes RC's $10K test. Maybe that would shut them up!!

:evil:

Some have. All failed. The myth continues.....

Wow so there is no sound quality difference between amps? Good one.

You're going to start telling me there's no difference between 128kbps MP3 and CD audio too right?


rolleye.gif


Your an idiot too. An amp AMPLIFIES, hence its name. If it does something else, its not an AMPLIFIER is it. Again, until you do a little research, help yourself to a cup of STFU and let the big peoples talk eh?


Don't waste your keystrokes. Some people can't be saved. You just have to let them go.

Okay genius then why are tube amps still being produced? Solid state amplifiers are so much easier to make and yet there are people who still prefer tubes. I'm sure it's all in psychological right? Companies like Texas Instruments throw money into amplifier R&D for fun?

long useless post

That contest states that only CAR AMPLIFIERS may be used. I am sorry but "Alpine, Rockford, Kicker, Phoenix Gold, Precision Power, MTX,
Adcom, Kenwood, Pioneer, Sony" is not high end, and I have never seen a tube amplifier in a car before. I do not know why car audio enthusiasts consider themselves audiophiles. It is impossible to create an environment for accurate reproduction of music in a car. Space, power, and placement issues cannot be remedied.
 

Shockwave

Banned
Sep 16, 2000
9,059
0
0
Nan0bug, your full of shyte. Period. Get out of this thread.
"I know people in the blah blah blah"
The hell you do. People who spout these horrible myths, EVEN WHEN GIVIN FACTUAL INFORMATION, piss me off to NO end! :|

If you think cone SIZE makes ANY difference in sound quality "Ohhh, its boomy cause its big.." WTF?! You've been given info. Its the inductance of the driver which determines the rate of change. And the reason you guys have heard sloppy 15's is to be honest your installers dont know what the hell their doing. Period.
You want to use a large driver you HAVE to have a good box and a know your crossovers. Period.
But, a good 10" in a proper enclosure will have scads better sound quality then a good 15" in a bad enclosure. Enclosure is just as, if not more important then, driver quality.
 

prvteye2003

Diamond Member
Jun 19, 2003
3,876
1
0
personally, I've never had 12's, only 10's. One of the best sounding systems I ever had I used 2 Kicker C10's in a bandpass enclosure in the truck of a '91 cavalier ported through the rear deck. Of course, that was 13 years ago and speakers have come a long ways since then. In that particular setup, I also had Pioneer 4-ways 6x9's in the rear deck, kicker 5 1/4 midbass drivers in the doors with 13mm Kicker tweeters and kenwood 4x6 plates in the dash. I hit in the low 140's spl believe it or not. That was an awesome sounding system. The last system I had I used 4 Kicker C10's under the rear seat of my GMC ext cab p/u. It didn't sound too bad either. Guess what I'm saying is I've never had the need to use 12's.
 

prvteye2003

Diamond Member
Jun 19, 2003
3,876
1
0
Originally posted by: KillaBong
What is the point of making them argue with you about driver size? They are happy with thinking they are smarter, and you are happy because you have superior bigger woofers. It is a total myth that smaller woofers are tighter.

It's not myth, it's total fact. You need to read up a little before you type. If someone is gonna use a biga$$ woofer like a 15 for bass, they need to use 8's or 10's for the tight bass and the 15 for the insanely deep bass. You just can't get a tight sounding bass out of that big a speaker.
 

Shockwave

Banned
Sep 16, 2000
9,059
0
0
Originally posted by: prvteye2003
Originally posted by: KillaBong
What is the point of making them argue with you about driver size? They are happy with thinking they are smarter, and you are happy because you have superior bigger woofers. It is a total myth that smaller woofers are tighter.

It's not myth, it's total fact. You need to read up a little before you type. If someone is gonna use a biga$$ woofer like a 15 for bass, they need to use 8's or 10's for the tight bass and the 15 for the insanely deep bass. You just can't get a tight sounding bass out of that big a speaker.

So untrue.
rolleye.gif


 

prvteye2003

Diamond Member
Jun 19, 2003
3,876
1
0
Originally posted by: Shockwave
Nan0bug, your full of shyte. Period. Get out of this thread.
"I know people in the blah blah blah"
The hell you do. People who spout these horrible myths, EVEN WHEN GIVIN FACTUAL INFORMATION, piss me off to NO end! :|

If you think cone SIZE makes ANY difference in sound quality "Ohhh, its boomy cause its big.." WTF?! You've been given info. Its the inductance of the driver which determines the rate of change. And the reason you guys have heard sloppy 15's is to be honest your installers dont know what the hell their doing. Period.
You want to use a large driver you HAVE to have a good box and a know your crossovers. Period.
But, a good 10" in a proper enclosure will have scads better sound quality then a good 15" in a bad enclosure. Enclosure is just as, if not more important then, driver quality.

I totally agree with this
If your enclosure sucks, the best speaker in the world will sound like sh!t.
 

prvteye2003

Diamond Member
Jun 19, 2003
3,876
1
0
Originally posted by: Shockwave
Originally posted by: prvteye2003
Originally posted by: KillaBong
What is the point of making them argue with you about driver size? They are happy with thinking they are smarter, and you are happy because you have superior bigger woofers. It is a total myth that smaller woofers are tighter.

It's not myth, it's total fact. You need to read up a little before you type. If someone is gonna use a biga$$ woofer like a 15 for bass, they need to use 8's or 10's for the tight bass and the 15 for the insanely deep bass. You just can't get a tight sounding bass out of that big a speaker.

So untrue.
rolleye.gif

whatever
 

Shockwave

Banned
Sep 16, 2000
9,059
0
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Originally posted by: prvteye2003
Originally posted by: Shockwave
Originally posted by: prvteye2003
Originally posted by: KillaBong
What is the point of making them argue with you about driver size? They are happy with thinking they are smarter, and you are happy because you have superior bigger woofers. It is a total myth that smaller woofers are tighter.

It's not myth, it's total fact. You need to read up a little before you type. If someone is gonna use a biga$$ woofer like a 15 for bass, they need to use 8's or 10's for the tight bass and the 15 for the insanely deep bass. You just can't get a tight sounding bass out of that big a speaker.

So untrue.
rolleye.gif

whatever


Ok, why cant a larger cone be as good as a smaller cone? Explain to me. You'll be wrong,. but humor me anyways. Explain to me if 2 subs, one a 10" and 1 a 15" in a optimally sized sealed enclosure (assume .707 QTC) how the 10" will be "tighter" as you call it?

**EDIT**

And, why we're at it explain to me why many IASCA SQ champs use large cone drivers.
 

JackBurton

Lifer
Jul 18, 2000
15,993
14
81
Dude, get two of these and a nice amp and you'll be VERY happy. GUARANTEED. Just make sure you don't have a sh!t enclosure.

I've got two 10" Alpine R series subs. They sound great but I'm looking to upgrade. These JL Audio subs are what I'm looking at to get to replace my current set up. I think I'm going to need another amp to drive them though. As of now, my car headlights dim when I crank my system up and hit some hard bass. With these JLs and another amp, I think my car might die on me when I crank my system hard. :( :)
 

Viperoni

Lifer
Jan 4, 2000
11,084
1
71
Of all places, you'd figure ATOT would be the one to try to look for some sort of factual (and in this case, mathematical) answer to something, but instead you get this.

nan0bug, Maybe they can't fit a largish 5 cubic foot ported box that many 15's require?
Maybe they haven't heard a really good 15" sub before? Maybe they're brainwashed like the rest of the world?

Here's an example of a sweet, very winning and magazine featured, SQ vehicle.
2 15" Focal subs in an aperiodic box. Only ~400 watts RMS each.

http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/135967


And because apparently nobody read it the first time:

Here's the 2 most common reasons why people think and/or 15's do sound sloppy:
#1: They're often placed in boxes too small for them to produce good SQ to begin with.
#2: If they are in a properly sized box, they're (usually natural) amount of deep bass (IE: 40hz stuff) and lack of midbass emphasis are INTERPRETED as being sloppy, when it actually the opposite is true.




Pop Quiz to ATOT'ers, what's an Aperiodic box, and how do it's SPL and SQ compare to a regular sealed box (Qtc 0.707)?
 

Viper GTS

Lifer
Oct 13, 1999
38,107
433
136
When I first joined HTForums I couldn't understand the disdain with which the members regarded car audio.

This thread is making everything clear.

Viper GTS
 

Shockwave

Banned
Sep 16, 2000
9,059
0
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Originally posted by: Viper GTS
When I first joined HTForums I couldn't understand the disdain with which the members regarded car audio.

This thread is making everything clear.

Viper GTS

Agreed.
On a different note, seen the Parthenon with a cone on it! JESUS! I think thats the 24" cone although it should support a 48" cone.

Text
 

Shockwave

Banned
Sep 16, 2000
9,059
0
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Originally posted by: Viperoni
Pop Quiz to ATOT'ers, what's an Aperiodic box, and how do it's SPL and SQ compare to a regular sealed box (Qtc 0.707)?

The "Breathable boxes"? (using an aperiodic membrane). SQ probably wouldnt notice much difference from the .707, SPL would probably be less.

 

nan0bug

Banned
Apr 22, 2003
3,142
0
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Originally posted by: Shockwave
Nan0bug, your full of shyte. Period. Get out of this thread.
"I know people in the blah blah blah"
The hell you do. People who spout these horrible myths, EVEN WHEN GIVIN FACTUAL INFORMATION, piss me off to NO end! :|

If you think cone SIZE makes ANY difference in sound quality "Ohhh, its boomy cause its big.." WTF?! You've been given info. Its the inductance of the driver which determines the rate of change. And the reason you guys have heard sloppy 15's is to be honest your installers dont know what the hell their doing. Period.
You want to use a large driver you HAVE to have a good box and a know your crossovers. Period.
But, a good 10" in a proper enclosure will have scads better sound quality then a good 15" in a bad enclosure. Enclosure is just as, if not more important then, driver quality.

Prove I'm full of sh!t. Go and find a studio that has actual production credits (meaning not some bedroom studio) that only uses 15" subs and I will concede that I have absolutely no idea what I'm talking about, even though I've spent more time in various production environments in the past 3 months than you ever will in your life.

You're a car audio geek. You think your knowledge of CAR AUDIO (which isn't even close to ideal for sound reproduction) makes you some sort of audiophile. Maybe you even work in a place that sells car stereos. *golf clap* good for you. You still don't know jack.

I'm someone who works with sound on a regular basis. I spend 3 nights week with my friend working on music, every week. I've been at it for 3 years. I can admit, I don't know everything there is to know. This is one of those fields where you can never know everything. I've met people up and down the 'food chain', and I've been in everything from crappy bedroom studios with horrible soundproofing, all kinds of ambient background noise and minimal consideration of ideal acoustic placement of anything, to studios that cost more than most people would spend on their car(s) and house combined, with floor to ceiling racks of equipment, and individual rooms for drums, strings, vocals, and processing.. One thing I do know, Mr. car audio guy, is that I have -never- seen a studio with only 15" subwoofers used. EVER. I've never even heard of it. Nobody does it. People who strive for the truest reproduction of sound (flatness, as it's referred to in producer jingo) DO NOT and WILL NOT use 15in subwoofers to get the job done. Period. 15in subwoofers simply don't produce sound as accurately above 40hz. They do the 20hz to 40hz range extremely well, but thats about it.

Here, I'll even quote from Mackie's website. I'm sure you've heard of them right?
Regarding their 12in sub (emphasis mine):
The Mackie HRS120 Active Subwoofer is one of the most flexible, responsive, and cost-effective active studio sub woofers on the market today. The HRS120 is perfectly suited for professional recording studios and film/video surround post-production facilities that require extremely accurate bass extension to 19Hz and below. It is also an excellent choice for home theater surround sound installations. In addition to surround applications, the HRS120 can add more low-end presence and enhancement to project and professional studios in a standard stereo configuration. Either way, the HRS120 is a must-have for those customers seeking crisp, clear, detailed low-frequency enhancement for virtually any application.

Now, regarding their 15in sub (again, emphasis mine):
The 950-watt HRS150, which joins the HRS120 subwoofer in the Mackie HR Active Studio Monitor family, is meant to provide a sub for more demanding low-end mixes. For example, it is ideal for house, hip hop and rap music that has an extended low end content. The HRS150 is the excellent choice for rooms where louder mixes and accuracy need to be achieved at very low frequencies. Because of its great size and immense power, this sub is also ideal for bass management when asked to reproduce the low frequency energy of all the mixing channels. The HRS150 fits perfectly with the other members of the Mackie HR Active Studio Monitor family in studio monitoring or home theater applications.

Now, I didn't want to do this, because I'm stooping to 'car audio fanboy' level, quoting a product pitch as information. However, I feel comfortable doing so, since Mackie is pretty much recognized as the industry standard for -real- professional studio applications.

Your 'knowledge' is driven more through statistics, sales ads, competitions where people see who can blow each others eardrums out, and web sites where fanboys of your ilk argue over which subwoofer is better and how much better their setup is than everyone elses.

My knowledge is driven through hands-on experience, and my opinion is shared with professionals around the globe. I know how to mix down a track so it will sound excellent not only on a $1000+ setup, but also a $150 bookshelf setup and a crappy $30 walmart discman. Do you? Its something I practice every day. I intend to go to school for it next fall.

You can keep arguing with me if thats your perogative, and continue to make a complete ass out of yourself with your stupid mathematical equations and other crutchfield tip of the day knowledge, and I will simply continue to dismiss you as an obvious n00b who has absolutely no real idea what he's talking about because your eardrums are fried from being more interested in how loudly something is played instead of how accurately it is produced, like most of your inconsiderate car audio fanboy brethren.

Or, you can shut up, ante up, and find me a serious studio with some actual production credits that only relies on 15" subwoofers. I promise if you do, I will promptly take the boot that I have so far been swiftly sticking up your ass and shove it directly in my mouth and walk out of this thread.