There's 2 of them been sold for $550 AUD each ( negotiable), with warranty and all that included, and only 2 months old. So I suppose its not worth it.
Gigabyte does sell for $410, but I won't go and buy one right now, because I'm willing to wait for a good deal.
Talking about waiting; I'm not able to spend what I was planning to spend as my budget. In the past few weeks I have had to spend a little extra cash on a few other things, so I figured that instead of trying to cram the rest of my build into a $700 budget (it's possible, but would be retarded with my current parts), I'm just going to wait and buy all the pieces over time.
First of all, I want to get my system up and running first, so I will be buying the mobo, cpu and case next. After that, I want to get it at the normal operational level, so I'll be buying my storage, OS, keyboard/mouse set and DVD read/writer. Then AFTER THAT, I'll get my GPU. The lastly, I'll be investing in some superior cooling fans.
So then, what do you guys think of MSI's mpower mobo? I read it's well priced for its feature set. Another option I was looking at is Gigabyte's UD3H (with the wifi bundle). ASUS's board around this price range is the P8Z77-V. I think I'll stay away from ASRock extreme series, mainly because I wan't a good software package to go with my mobo, which apparently all the former boards have. I read Gigabyte's z77 boards are very high quality, as with ASUS', but I haven't heard much about the MSI one. So, which would you guys advise? The built-in wifi and audio quality doesn't phase me, as long as it's there I'm happy (although if someone could point out the quality differences between them, It'll be very appreciated). I don't care for thunderbolt, barely ever use external storage except for little documents, and when I do transfer something larger I don't mind sitting around for longer. What else..... OCability is fairly important at this stage; I know the MSI one is supposed to be built for that, which is why I'm leaning towards their board, but I did hear an OC world record was broken with the UD3H (not sure if that's true). I suppose the last thing would be cable placement, it's not entirely important, but I would like all the plugs to be placed in convenient places, so I'm not reaching across the board to plug in the USB 3.0 header. I guess that's it.
EDIT: Just to avoid confusion, the UD3H cost about $170 in Australia, extra $20 for the wifi bundle, and the P8Z77-V is $195. I know, the pricing is ridiculous. But the mpower is $200. Strange? I think so. I feel inclined to get the mpower at these prices.
Talking about waiting; I'm not able to spend what I was planning to spend as my budget. In the past few weeks I have had to spend a little extra cash on a few other things, so I figured that instead of trying to cram the rest of my build into a $700 budget (it's possible, but would be retarded with my current parts), I'm just going to wait and buy all the pieces over time.
First of all, I want to get my system up and running first, so I will be buying the mobo, cpu and case next. After that, I want to get it at the normal operational level, so I'll be buying my storage, OS, keyboard/mouse set and DVD read/writer. Then AFTER THAT, I'll get my GPU. The lastly, I'll be investing in some superior cooling fans.
So then, what do you guys think of MSI's mpower mobo? I read it's well priced for its feature set. Another option I was looking at is Gigabyte's UD3H (with the wifi bundle). ASUS's board around this price range is the P8Z77-V. I think I'll stay away from ASRock extreme series, mainly because I wan't a good software package to go with my mobo, which apparently all the former boards have. I read Gigabyte's z77 boards are very high quality, as with ASUS', but I haven't heard much about the MSI one. So, which would you guys advise? The built-in wifi and audio quality doesn't phase me, as long as it's there I'm happy (although if someone could point out the quality differences between them, It'll be very appreciated). I don't care for thunderbolt, barely ever use external storage except for little documents, and when I do transfer something larger I don't mind sitting around for longer. What else..... OCability is fairly important at this stage; I know the MSI one is supposed to be built for that, which is why I'm leaning towards their board, but I did hear an OC world record was broken with the UD3H (not sure if that's true). I suppose the last thing would be cable placement, it's not entirely important, but I would like all the plugs to be placed in convenient places, so I'm not reaching across the board to plug in the USB 3.0 header. I guess that's it.
EDIT: Just to avoid confusion, the UD3H cost about $170 in Australia, extra $20 for the wifi bundle, and the P8Z77-V is $195. I know, the pricing is ridiculous. But the mpower is $200. Strange? I think so. I feel inclined to get the mpower at these prices.
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Why do you want a good software package? I literally don't use anything that came with the motherboard (VirtuMVP, antivirus, etc). If there is something specific that you NEED, rather than merely suspect may be useful, it is a different story of course, but I found that all of that bundled software was basically bloat (beyond the necessary drivers). Also, the Extreme 4 does come with a healthy software bundle.
Also, stay away from MSI. Many of their boards come without voltage adjustment for the CPU, a key feature for middle range and higher overclocks (4.5 or more on Ivy Bridge). Besides, the Asrock Extreme 4 has an even better feature set/price ratio--if you must go Asus, go for a P8Z77-V LK.
For someone with such a tight budget, you are awfully willing to spend extra on everything but what actually matters in gaming--the graphics card. I mean, you clearly have internet access and so on, so a basic computer won't be contributing anything.
Finally, it is 100% possibly to fit a full computer build within $700. It would just be woefully underpowered (think an i3 or AMD Phenom II X4 with a 7850.) That would just look silly next to your luxury cooler, PSU, and RAM.
Also, stay away from MSI. Many of their boards come without voltage adjustment for the CPU, a key feature for middle range and higher overclocks (4.5 or more on Ivy Bridge). Besides, the Asrock Extreme 4 has an even better feature set/price ratio--if you must go Asus, go for a P8Z77-V LK.
For someone with such a tight budget, you are awfully willing to spend extra on everything but what actually matters in gaming--the graphics card. I mean, you clearly have internet access and so on, so a basic computer won't be contributing anything.
Finally, it is 100% possibly to fit a full computer build within $700. It would just be woefully underpowered (think an i3 or AMD Phenom II X4 with a 7850.) That would just look silly next to your luxury cooler, PSU, and RAM.
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Well this is going to be my all purpose PC, and there is a fairly good list of purposes.
Image editing and design
3D animation and design (possibly rendering in with that)
Gaming
On my current computer, the 2 former mentioned are usually painfully slow. I'm pretty serious and dedicated to 3D work, which is why I'm considering the 3770k, for its extra cache and HTing.
I'm not on an extremely tight budget, I just don't mind assembling my PC over a long period of time as I accumulate more money.
And I know it is possible to get the rest of my pieces for $700, but I'd much rather wait and build something quality.
Image editing and design
3D animation and design (possibly rendering in with that)
Gaming
On my current computer, the 2 former mentioned are usually painfully slow. I'm pretty serious and dedicated to 3D work, which is why I'm considering the 3770k, for its extra cache and HTing.
I'm not on an extremely tight budget, I just don't mind assembling my PC over a long period of time as I accumulate more money.
And I know it is possible to get the rest of my pieces for $700, but I'd much rather wait and build something quality.
Ah, okay. From your OP, it seemed like you were doing gaming, possibly with a dash of CAD/image work.
A modular PSU of 160mm or more is a bit dicey (though doable), but the water cooler should fit fine.
I just bought my case, the C70 was on sale at Amazon for $107 (the black version). $50 shipping, but that's still cheaper than buying it from Australia, sadly enough.
I might buy my storage next, seems as that wont be changing any time soon. 1TB HDD (either WD black or green), 120GB SSD (don't care about write performance for now, so still getting Samsung 840), might as well as buy some new USB drives and the OS with this set, maybe an optical drive too.
I might buy my storage next, seems as that wont be changing any time soon. 1TB HDD (either WD black or green), 120GB SSD (don't care about write performance for now, so still getting Samsung 840), might as well as buy some new USB drives and the OS with this set, maybe an optical drive too.
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Try to get storage locally in person. Shipping, especially (I suspect) international shipping is liable to result in a damaged and thus DOA hard drive because the units are often badly packed.
That's definitely a good point, I wouldn't have thought about that. Thanks 
At least my case wont brake in shipping (hopefully, looks sturdy enough).
I was thinking about getting the HAF XB. The form factor and layout just seems like it would offer great cooling; all the hot stuff up the top, and all the hot so hot stuff down the bottom; 2 fans blowing directly onto the mobo and graphics cards, and stright into the back exhaust. But then I realised I wouldn't be able to have my h100i in there as an exhaust, it would have to be an intake. Plus the width of the case will make it hard to fit any where. If I ordered the H80i instead though, I would have been able to.
So I just decided to go with a mid tower case. First thing I'm going to do as cut a new acrylic window for it; no tints and no air holes. I don't really like the positioning of the top 2 fan mounts, I would prefer them tucked away in the back like all other cases, instead of centered. But I got a fairly decent case at a good price.
At least my case wont brake in shipping (hopefully, looks sturdy enough).I was thinking about getting the HAF XB. The form factor and layout just seems like it would offer great cooling; all the hot stuff up the top, and all the hot so hot stuff down the bottom; 2 fans blowing directly onto the mobo and graphics cards, and stright into the back exhaust. But then I realised I wouldn't be able to have my h100i in there as an exhaust, it would have to be an intake. Plus the width of the case will make it hard to fit any where. If I ordered the H80i instead though, I would have been able to.
So I just decided to go with a mid tower case. First thing I'm going to do as cut a new acrylic window for it; no tints and no air holes. I don't really like the positioning of the top 2 fan mounts, I would prefer them tucked away in the back like all other cases, instead of centered. But I got a fairly decent case at a good price.
Sounds like a plan! Remember that you can use a heat gun to smooth out the edges of the acrylic cuts if necessary.
Some random questions.
Any idea when AMD is coming out with a new mobo chipset?
How is Gigabytes customer service?
Same question for MSI, I heard they are good, but haven't heard about Gigabytes.
Is there wireless HDMI? Like connecting my PC with a receiver, and the TV with another one?
What's a good modem router for gaming? Requirements are; ADSL/ADSL 2+, we can't have wireless internet were we live, support a decent amount of devices (4 phones, 3 laptops, printer, 2 PCs max), and preferably one that doesn't need ports opened all the time for gaming (maybe some routers do it automatically?)
Any idea when AMD is coming out with a new mobo chipset?
How is Gigabytes customer service?
Same question for MSI, I heard they are good, but haven't heard about Gigabytes.
Is there wireless HDMI? Like connecting my PC with a receiver, and the TV with another one?
What's a good modem router for gaming? Requirements are; ADSL/ADSL 2+, we can't have wireless internet were we live, support a decent amount of devices (4 phones, 3 laptops, printer, 2 PCs max), and preferably one that doesn't need ports opened all the time for gaming (maybe some routers do it automatically?)
Wireless HDMI exists, I'm sure, but the interfernce from other devices and the latency make it a bad choice for gaming. HDMI cables can make it to around 50 feet (15.25 meters) before needing a boost of some kind.
As for the router: as long as you're wired, and the ping time/latency is okay, you should be fine. The ping time is more dependent on your provider than anything.
As for the router: as long as you're wired, and the ping time/latency is okay, you should be fine. The ping time is more dependent on your provider than anything.
TY-1
Member
- Mar 27, 2013
- 186
- 0
- 0
Sleepingforest is right, there is Wireless HDMI but it really isn't worth it when it comes to gaming and other high data flow/heavy visual operations. Wired HDMI is currently superior and if you actually need more than 50feet (15.25meters) of HDMI cable then I would suggest rethinking your layout and looking at other options first.
An interesting option is WiDi, Intel's Wireless Display, as it could replace HDMI completely in a couple of years if it keeps on its current progression track.
AMD cards are said to have slight frame latency issues at times. The frames load slightly unevenly, so even though they come as fast as the screen will allow on average, there is a slight gap every few seconds.
This, however, is pretty much fixed by their new drivers, and many people (including myself!) cannot notice it. Try looking for a computer store that'll let you demo a PC with an AMD 78XX or 79XX card to see if you notice it at all.
This, however, is pretty much fixed by their new drivers, and many people (including myself!) cannot notice it. Try looking for a computer store that'll let you demo a PC with an AMD 78XX or 79XX card to see if you notice it at all.
Alright thanks, after reading that it was making me think of getting Nvidia, because it sounded pretty bad, but unless it's all ok now then that's all good.
Nvidia seems to be leading the way with software and drivers over AMD. Am I right?
And I realised that my PSU has a self-test button on the back, so I have proof that an American PSU can work in Australia (or any other country) if you just go down to the store and buy a $10 power cable for your PSU. Green light near my thumb and spinning fan means A-OK according to the manual
Sorry about the size and quality, taken with my HTC One X and the camera is not as good as they say.
Also, according to reviews, the Dominator Platinums I have overclock extremely poorly, and that it's almost impossible to get them over stock configuration. The 2x8GB 1600Mhz set.
Nvidia seems to be leading the way with software and drivers over AMD. Am I right?
And I realised that my PSU has a self-test button on the back, so I have proof that an American PSU can work in Australia (or any other country) if you just go down to the store and buy a $10 power cable for your PSU. Green light near my thumb and spinning fan means A-OK according to the manual
Sorry about the size and quality, taken with my HTC One X and the camera is not as good as they say.
Also, according to reviews, the Dominator Platinums I have overclock extremely poorly, and that it's almost impossible to get them over stock configuration. The 2x8GB 1600Mhz set.
Fortunately, RAM speed doesn't matter in an Intel build! :awe: Seriously, overclocking RAM usually just kills your RAM. Faster rather than providing visible benefits.
On the driver issue: Drivers are a part of the video card.
You cannot separate the two. Drivers govern 3 things: the frames per second you get, the procedure for SLI/CFX, and the amount of stutter. Nvidia generally had less stutter in this generation (until AMD fixed the issue) and generally has fewer SLI issues, but AMD has the faster cards this time around.
In other words, you can't say that "drivers are better." You can say SLI is less likely to have problems or AMD is generally better at pushing frames.
On the driver issue: Drivers are a part of the video card.
You cannot separate the two. Drivers govern 3 things: the frames per second you get, the procedure for SLI/CFX, and the amount of stutter. Nvidia generally had less stutter in this generation (until AMD fixed the issue) and generally has fewer SLI issues, but AMD has the faster cards this time around.
In other words, you can't say that "drivers are better." You can say SLI is less likely to have problems or AMD is generally better at pushing frames.
Possibly. But as I said, RAM speeds and latnecy tends to not matter much past 1600MHz CL9-9-9-24.
Revolution 11
Senior member
- Jun 2, 2011
- 952
- 79
- 91
I am going to jut into this conversation to say that any kind of fancy RAM (overclocked, nifty heatspreaders, low-latency) is generally not worth it.
1. Overclocked RAM will give a small performance increase. Not worth the reduced stability because your RAM is not following JEDEC spec.
2. Heatspreaders are a marketing trick, designed to add some oomph to a otherwise boring product category. If your RAM is getting so hot that you need heatspreaders, there are bigger problems with your build.
3. Low-latency RAM is like overclocked RAM because there is not much benefit with Intel CPUs. AMD's APUs could benefit from these types of RAM.
When looking at RAM, get a product that follows JEDEC spec (no overclocking, no overvolting) at the best price. Better yet, get low-voltage 1.35v DDR3 RAM which has better quality than "premium" RAM at 1.5v or higher D:.
Samsung had some great low-voltage RAM but it is discontinued, I think.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147096
1. Overclocked RAM will give a small performance increase. Not worth the reduced stability because your RAM is not following JEDEC spec.
2. Heatspreaders are a marketing trick, designed to add some oomph to a otherwise boring product category. If your RAM is getting so hot that you need heatspreaders, there are bigger problems with your build.
3. Low-latency RAM is like overclocked RAM because there is not much benefit with Intel CPUs. AMD's APUs could benefit from these types of RAM.
When looking at RAM, get a product that follows JEDEC spec (no overclocking, no overvolting) at the best price. Better yet, get low-voltage 1.35v DDR3 RAM which has better quality than "premium" RAM at 1.5v or higher D:.
Samsung had some great low-voltage RAM but it is discontinued, I think.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147096
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Amazon has their 840 SSDs on sale right now (except for the 120GB it seems), so maybe this is the time to buy one. 250GB is only about $169 which is a better deal than the 120GB. 500GB is $318, which seems to be an even better deal.
I'm thinking 120GB might be too small, I haven't decided yet. 500GB is definitely too large, I won't be needing that, unless I decided to rely on SSDs entirely for storage, which I have no plans to do right now. 250GB might be the one I'll go with, seems like the sweet spot considering the storage to price ratio right now.
I'm thinking 120GB might be too small, I haven't decided yet. 500GB is definitely too large, I won't be needing that, unless I decided to rely on SSDs entirely for storage, which I have no plans to do right now. 250GB might be the one I'll go with, seems like the sweet spot considering the storage to price ratio right now.
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