Modern home materials & technologies discussion thread

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Kaido

Elite Member & Kitchen Overlord
Feb 14, 2004
48,414
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Kaido

Elite Member & Kitchen Overlord
Feb 14, 2004
48,414
5,270
136
Blum Space Step: (slide-out toe-kick drawer step)

Hadn't seen this before, pretty great idea!


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Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
20,385
5,129
136
My issue's are that it's not an attractive detail, has limited functionality, and would add substantial expense to the cabinets. It certainly has utility for someone around 4' tall, but for the average person it's budget that could be better used elsewhere.
 

jmagg

Platinum Member
Nov 21, 2001
2,023
357
126
I worked with a midget bricklayer who kicked a milk crate down the line to reach the work. The guy was fast and neat. I extend the same system to my 5 ft wife.
 

Red Squirrel

No Lifer
May 24, 2003
67,407
12,144
126
www.anyf.ca
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herm0016

Diamond Member
Feb 26, 2005
8,393
1,026
126
I am getting a quote for this hydronic floor system. I will report the costs.
https://heat-sheet.com/heat-sheet/

I found an online price for the R10 product.
https://hughydronics.com/products/heat-sheet

is this only for topping with concrete or litecrete?

I like the look of the plywood ones with the metal reflector.

 

skyking

Lifer
Nov 21, 2001
22,027
4,798
146
that was for the basement slab. I don't want the added stiffness that the warm board overlay does.
I want to keep a live floor, so I will do a staple up from below the subfloor.
I'll get you a link.
 
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herm0016

Diamond Member
Feb 26, 2005
8,393
1,026
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that was for the basement slab. I don't want the added stiffness that the warm board overlay does.
I want to keep a live floor, so I will do a staple up from below the subfloor.
I'll get you a link.

Their new product is not an overlay, its subfloor by itself. check the modulus, but it's probably similar to standard stuff. Could save some labor and should be more even and have better transfer to the floor covering than staple up, even with the reflectors.

We diverge on the "live" floor thing. I'm all about building the structure stiff as and manipulating the feel by the finish schedule
 

Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
20,385
5,129
136
Their new product is not an overlay, its subfloor by itself. check the modulus, but it's probably similar to standard stuff. Could save some labor and should be more even and have better transfer to the floor covering than staple up, even with the reflectors.

We diverge on the "live" floor thing. I'm all about building the structure stiff as and manipulating the feel by the finish schedule
I priced out a product like this a few years back for a project I was doing. The cost was up in the absurd range. We ended up doing conventional tubes in 2" of concrete.
I like the concept in that it's a simple installation with a lot of flexibility.
 

skyking

Lifer
Nov 21, 2001
22,027
4,798
146
Their new product is not an overlay, its subfloor by itself. check the modulus, but it's probably similar to standard stuff. Could save some labor and should be more even and have better transfer to the floor covering than staple up, even with the reflectors.

We diverge on the "live" floor thing. I'm all about building the structure stiff as and manipulating the feel by the finish schedule
Neither one of us has rheumatoid arthritis in our feet and notices just a short time on concrete, so there is that.

I took a look at the T&G subfloor.
I found this in the manual:
"There are several different types of vinyl flooring,and all can be used with Warmboard.Increasing in popularity is the use of Luxury Vinyl Flooring (LVF) over Warmboard. This product emulates the look of natural materials like wood or stone, is a very durable and could be a great option for areas expecting a lot of wear and tear.We recommend installing a substrate underlayment between the Warmboard and the vinyl finish floor.Suggested Underlayments of 1/4" or 1/2" interior plywood or OSB 1/4" or 1/2" tile backerboard (bathrooms, kitchens)We encourage a 3/4" thick finish floor assembly."

That is too much dicking around after paying ~$300 a sheet for their fancy subfloor. It is a better product for somebody doing tile or hardwood. We are doing LVP for sure.
What they are looking to do is have a diffusion layer above the warm board to even out the heat, be it tile or wood.
In our situation a staple up system is going to do the trick. It uses the subfloor itself to provide the diffusion layer.
Radiantec has an extensive document library describing the different methods.
https://www.radiantec.com/about-radiant-heating/our-heating-systems/

I may go with their thinwall 7/8" tube at 1 per bay, or do 2 per bay with common 1/2" pex.
The bottom edge of the I-Joist flange is the perfect distance for applying the reflective material. I can put that all up before finishing my ductwork and plumbing in the same bays.
The upstairs floor will get insulated because it gets finished, but I can experiment with the main floor because the basement is unfinished.
EDIT: I got a quote for 31K for 2625 sq ft of that subfloor.!!
$377.90 per 4x8 sheet, plus freight.
 
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Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
20,385
5,129
136
Neither one of us has rheumatoid arthritis in our feet and notices just a short time on concrete, so there is that.

I took a look at the T&G subfloor.
I found this in the manual:
"There are several different types of vinyl flooring,and all can be used with Warmboard.Increasing in popularity is the use of Luxury Vinyl Flooring (LVF) over Warmboard. This product emulates the look of natural materials like wood or stone, is a very durable and could be a great option for areas expecting a lot of wear and tear.We recommend installing a substrate underlayment between the Warmboard and the vinyl finish floor.Suggested Underlayments of 1/4" or 1/2" interior plywood or OSB 1/4" or 1/2" tile backerboard (bathrooms, kitchens)We encourage a 3/4" thick finish floor assembly."

That is too much dicking around after paying ~$300 a sheet for their fancy subfloor. It is a better product for somebody doing tile or hardwood. We are doing LVP for sure.
What they are looking to do is have a diffusion layer above the warm board to even out the heat, be it tile or wood.
In our situation a staple up system is going to do the trick. It uses the subfloor itself to provide the diffusion layer.
Radiantec has an extensive document library describing the different methods.
https://www.radiantec.com/about-radiant-heating/our-heating-systems/

I may go with their thinwall 7/8" tube at 1 per bay, or do 2 per bay with common 1/2" pex.
The bottom edge of the I-Joist flange is the perfect distance for applying the reflective material. I can put that all up before finishing my ductwork and plumbing in the same bays.
The upstairs floor will get insulated because it gets finished, but I can experiment with the main floor because the basement is unfinished.
EDIT: I got a quote for 31K for 2625 sq ft of that subfloor.!!
$377.90 per 4x8 sheet, plus freight.
At that price you'd be cheaper to use 1 1/8 plywood decking and hire a couple young fellows with routers to roll your own.
 

skyking

Lifer
Nov 21, 2001
22,027
4,798
146
yeah it was an eye opener.
When you are dealing with a contractor custom home at ~$200 a ft, that 11 bucks more a foot is quite a bit and you still need the hydronics.
 

Kaido

Elite Member & Kitchen Overlord
Feb 14, 2004
48,414
5,270
136
Refrigerated pantry:


Absolutely brilliant:


Good article:


Options include:

1. All-fridge, all-freezer, or combo (freezer door inside). Whisper-quiet operation & energy-efficient.
2. Touchless automatic pocket door. Walk in, dump drink packs on the floor, dump food on the shelves, put your whole crockpot or Instant Pot on a shelf, walk out.
3. Customization of size, features, finishes, shelving, lighting, accessories, and pantry door veneer to match doors & cabinetry. You can go down to like 7' x 8', but the common size is 8' x 10'; no limit on maximize size. Pan-tilt camera also available to check your inventory while shopping.

Downside is the average price is $30k installed. Really, I think this should be standard for every home. Just phenomenal. Solves soooooo many accessibility problems.






 

herm0016

Diamond Member
Feb 26, 2005
8,393
1,026
126
30k, damn. so a bedroom or a fridge.

could be done way way cheaper. its on the table for our garage when we get around to fixing that up, but i would be building my own box, wire shelves from HD and a couple window AC units and a temp controller.
Refrigerated pantry:




 

Kaido

Elite Member & Kitchen Overlord
Feb 14, 2004
48,414
5,270
136
30k, dang so a bedroom or a fridge.

could be done way way cheaper. its on the table for our garage when we get around to fixing that up, but i would be building my own box, wire shelves from HD and a couple window AC units and a temp controller.

Yeah, DIY is what I initially looked into. It's called the CoolBot, which is a custom window A/C controller to build your own walk-in fridge in a shed or room or whatever:


$419 & includes an app. Unfortunately, it only does refrigeration. However, it's pretty budget-friendly & uses 40% less electricity than a traditional walk-in fridge. You can use a window A/C unit or a mini-split system (compatible units listed below). You can build your own walk-in or a mobile trailer. They also sell walk-in kits:


TONS of uses (restaurants, home fridges, meat processing, mortuary, flowers, etc.). The benefits of the RootCellar version ($$$) is that they handle the whole process, customize all of the options for your preferences, can add a freezer unit (not available with the Coolbot), add a hands-free automatic pocket door for convenient entry & exit, etc. Right now, I have a 20cf upright freezer, which was like $900 delivered & installed from Home Depot, which I'm pretty happy with haha. But one can dream!!

Build your own cheese cave at home lol:



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