How to unscrew an impossibly tight oxygen sensor from a car?!

[308nato]

Roger is 100% correct. The only useful tool here is the fire wrench.

 

[SuperSix]

Originally posted by: 308nato
Roger is 100% correct. The only useful tool here is the fire wrench.

Not true. Yes, it may be a great way to get it off, but unless there's ample space around the o2 sensor, and he has a small-enough torch, it may be tough to get the heat in there. The first thing to do is the penetrating oil, and if THAT doesn't work, then the torch.

 

[radioouman]

Why not just get the exhaust really hot, and spray some of that cold stuff (for checking electronic components) on the O2 sensor. That should achieve the same result as the torch, right? (Except the exhaust won't be as hot as with a torch...)

Also agree with what someone else here said. If you are trying to use just a wrench on it, don't bother. Cut the wires and get a good socket and a breaker bar on it.

 

[StageLeft]

How did you determine it needed to be replaced? How much was it? For what kind of car?

Check engine light code read off as this sensor being whacky. It was $68 from Nissan (the part is not possible to get at somewhere like Autozone), 2000 Maxima.

Although I don't have an impact wrench given the tight confines one wouldn't work here. I could try a breaker bar for some extra torque, but I'm going to let it soak a bit and if it's not fixed soon I'll pick up a torch I think if I can find one cheap... BTW it was still gummed on there bad this morning. Damn thing!

To claify I have a proper oxygen sensor socket. It's attached to my wrench so I'm pushing on it pretty hard; I'm not trying an adjustable wrench 😉

--

Now if I get a torch should I try my best to heat ONLY the oxygen sensor or everything around it as well (well within a half inch anyhow)?

The gas mileage last few days has shot down and I'm wondering if perhaps a front O2 sensor has gone; so I'll check the codes at lunch. I don't know that this one affects fuel/air mixture, so I don't see how my mileage could have gone from 24-25 to 18 so quickly (seemed to happen overnight, and the o2 sensor has been an issue for 2-3 weeks).

 

[StageLeft]

Ooo, where is a good place to get a cheapo propane torch? Homedepot and Lowes online don't seem to have em...

 

[PsychoAndy]

Originally posted by: Skoorb
Ooo, where is a good place to get a cheapo propane torch? Homedepot and Lowes online don't seem to have em...

?

Blasphemy. If they dont, check Kmart, Walmart or a hardware store.

-PAB

 

[etech]

The probably have them in the stores but due to restrictions on shipping gas cylinders through the mail don't carry them on-line.

 

[StageLeft]

Originally posted by: PsychoAndy

Originally posted by: Skoorb
Ooo, where is a good place to get a cheapo propane torch? Homedepot and Lowes online don't seem to have em...

?

Blasphemy. If they dont, check Kmart, Walmart or a hardware store.

-PAB

I thought that Homedepot or Lowes WAS a hardware store! :Q

The probably have them in the stores but due to restrictions on shipping gas cylinders through the mail don't carry them on-line.

Just occured to me too. Hopefully one won't cost too much 😀

 

[308nato]

Insert.....MA and PA....hardware store.

True Value, Ace, hometown etc. Auto Supply or plumbing supply as well.


Edit...$6 or so around these backwoods will take one home.

 

[PsychoAndy]

Originally posted by: Skoorb

Originally posted by: PsychoAndy

Originally posted by: Skoorb
Ooo, where is a good place to get a cheapo propane torch? Homedepot and Lowes online don't seem to have em...

?

Blasphemy. If they dont, check Kmart, Walmart or a hardware store.

-PAB

I thought that Homedepot or Lowes WAS a hardware store! :Q

The probably have them in the stores but due to restrictions on shipping gas cylinders through the mail don't carry them on-line.

Just occured to me too. Hopefully one won't cost too much 😀

I would call Lowes/HD more Home Improvement stores than I would hardware per se. They carry mowers, lumber, and lots of other stuff your local ma and pa store wouldnt carry.

Example:

PAB: Dad needs a fuse. I gotta go to Grainger.
PA: Lowes knows!
PAB: Lowes dont know 200 Amp Industrial tri-phase hookups. brb.

Lowes and HD do carry lots of mainstream stuff though. I would think they'd carry small propane torches in the tool corral however.

-PAB

 

[StageLeft]

OK I'm not sure on the heat thing - some are saying heat the O2 sensor - others are saying heat only the area around it. Although I don't deny the fact that the torch will help, if the heat expands the metal wouldn't that make everything just tighter in there instead...?

 

Skoorb;

$12.99 at KFart for a propane torch, remember that you must heat the exhaust pipe and Oxygen sensor for at least 5 minutes for it to work.

 

[StageLeft]

Originally posted by: Roger
Skoorb;

$12.99 at KFart for a propane torch, remember that you must heat the exhaust pipe and exhaust for at least 5 minutes for it to work.

OK. It may be tricky as heck to keep from heating up the o2 sensor but I'll do the best I can and that price is right.

EDIT: OK I can heat up both o2 sensor AND pipe!

 

[amdskip]

Just heat the O2 sensor and things around it will also get warm after 5 minutes. Also use a breaker bar on this after heating it up.

 

[MomAndSkoorbaby]

Originally posted by: Skoorb

Originally posted by: Roger
Skoorb;

$12.99 at KFart for a propane torch, remember that you must heat the exhaust pipe and exhaust for at least 5 minutes for it to work.

OK. It may be tricky as heck to keep from heating up the o2 sensor but I'll do the best I can and that price is right.

EDIT: OK I can heat up both o2 sensor AND pipe!

Go Skoorbie Go Skoobie GO! 😀

Please let him get it off...I cannot stand a frustrated Skoorb for another night! :Q

 

[LAUST]

I'd hit it with PB blaster, let that soak on there for a good while then heat it with a torch, I'm pretty well verse with pulling them off myself, my truck has 4 of them.


BTW why are you pulling your Cold side sensor?

 

[StageLeft]

Originally posted by: LAUST
I'd hit it with PB blaster, let that soak on there for a good while then heat it with a torch, I'm pretty well verse with pulling them off myself, my truck has 4 of them.


BTW why are you pulling your Cold side sensor?

Well there must be a point to replacing it isn't there? I know that this sensor down by the cat convertor is bad. My gas mileage has gone down very recently (although it was "bad" for at least 1000 miles before that) and the other night the car was making a foul, foul smell, so I thought I'd replace this, since it is bad. I'll confirm at lunch that only this sensor is bad and another one hasn't gone bad in the meantime causing the nasty gas use.

 

[308nato]

There should be a threaded fitting welded to the pipe that the sensor is threaded into. Get that nice and hot. And try to "snap" the sensor loose quickly with a nice, quick application of force. Simply tugging on it may not do it if it has self welded nicely. Do yourself a big favor and pick up some "Never-Sieze" and apply it on your new sensor (small amount on threads only) to keep this from happening next time. NAPA carries the real stuff in a red/blue can.

 

[StageLeft]

Originally posted by: 308nato
There should be a threaded fitting welded to the pipe that the sensor is threaded into. Get that nice and hot. And try to "snap" the sensor loose quickly with a nice, quick application of force. Simply tugging on it may not do it if it has self welded nicely. Do yourself a big favor and pick up some "Never-Sieze" and apply it on your new sensor (small amount on threads only) to keep this from happening next time. NAPA carries the real stuff in a red/blue can.

I did buy some anti-seize last night from autozone so that this isn't an issue next time...

 

[desertdweller]

Be carefull if you're going to use your O2 sensor socket with a breaker bar. Cheap O2 sockets tend to
spread when you put alot of muscle on them, especially when they get hot, and can cause you to
round off the sensor. Use a 6 point wrench or 6 point regular socket after you've heated it up.


DD

 

[LAUST]

Originally posted by: Skoorb

Originally posted by: LAUST
I'd hit it with PB blaster, let that soak on there for a good while then heat it with a torch, I'm pretty well verse with pulling them off myself, my truck has 4 of them.


BTW why are you pulling your Cold side sensor?

Well there must be a point to replacing it isn't there? I know that this sensor down by the cat convertor is bad. My gas mileage has gone down very recently (although it was "bad" for at least 1000 miles before that) and the other night the car was making a foul, foul smell, so I thought I'd replace this, since it is bad. I'll confirm at lunch that only this sensor is bad and another one hasn't gone bad in the meantime causing the nasty gas use.

The Cold sensor (Muffler side of the CAT) is only used for ODB2 to report CAT failure, the Hot sensor (Engine side) is what reports your Rich/Lean ratio to your PCM.

 

[DDad]

Skoorb:
I can certainly relate- I've been working on cars all of my adult life, and have run a exhaust shop for the last 20 years

PB Blaster- good- by far the best Penetrating oil I've used
Heating with a torch- good, but I'm afraid you'll need a higher output torch than a standard propane model
One thing you can try- heat the area of pipe around the O2 sensor- if it doesn't budge, while it's cooling down spray with the PB Blaster. Yes you'll see some smoke and so forth, but it shouldn't catch fire (make sure the torch is off, BTW)
Keep soaking it till the area stays "wet"
Let it set for a few minutes- I usually stop and get a cup of coffee at this point
Give it another try - cold

Good Luck

 

[iamwiz82]

a ratchet wrench and a 6ft breaker bar will loosen anything 😀

 

[Electric Amish]

Originally posted by: Brutuskend
Take a torch to it, (the surrounding area at any rate) until it's a nice cherry red and it should come right out.

This works like a charm for many siezed bolts.

OK I'm not sure on the heat thing - some are saying heat the O2 sensor - others are saying heat only the area around it. Although I don't deny the fact that the torch will help, if the heat expands the metal wouldn't that make everything just tighter in there instead...?

The expansion and contraction as a whole help break loose the seized parts.

amish

 

[Brutuskend]

Go Skoorbie Go Skoobie GO!

Please let him get it off...I cannot stand a frustrated Skoorb for another night!

OH MAN, that's SCREAMING for a off color joke!!

But I'll try and control myself.......

Just heat the area around the sensor, the senson itself will get hot as well, but what your trying to do is expand the metal around it while keeping the sensor from expanding as little as possable.