How to unscrew an impossibly tight oxygen sensor from a car?!

StageLeft

No Lifer
Sep 29, 2000
70,150
5
0
Hehe - got the car up on ramps and I have an oxygen sensor socket on the rear oxygen sensor but the thing WILL NOT budge. It's REALLY cranked on the exhaust system. Any tips on how to remove these? The car is warm, which is supposed to aid in removal. Will a good penetrating oil help and how is the best way to use these?

Ancient thread moved from OT since members are again posting in it.
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Migroo

Diamond Member
Jul 14, 2001
4,488
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Have you tried WD40?

IE spray it on and let it soak in for a while...

WARNING: WD40 is flammable so it will ignite if your O2 sensor / exhaust is at the right temperature! Be careful. Better let it cool down.
 

StageLeft

No Lifer
Sep 29, 2000
70,150
5
0
Nope; how would that get in where the threads are? The things are ridiculously tight...
 

SuperSix

Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
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The best penetrating oil is "PB Blaster". You can also use a torch , may be tough not to burn other things around it.

Make SURE not to wipe off the anti-seize that should be on the replacement's threads. If it doesn't have any from the factory, buy some and use it. (MOst come with it from the factory)

 

StageLeft

No Lifer
Sep 29, 2000
70,150
5
0
Originally posted by: SuperSix
The best penetrating oil is "PB Blaster". You can also use a torch , may be tough not to burn other things around it.

Make SURE not to wipe off the anti-seize that should be on the replacement's threads. If it doesn't have any from the factory, buy some and use it. (MOst come with it from the factory)
I bought some to put on so that this doesn't happen again - will PB Blaster really work? I mean from my end it seems like the thing is sealed on so tight that nothing could get around it!
 

Migroo

Diamond Member
Jul 14, 2001
4,488
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WD40 gets everywhere. Trust me, although theres no guarantee it will work and get the thing off, it will get to where the threads are :)

Spray it at the join where the O2 sensor screws in.
 

SuperSix

Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
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Originally posted by: Skoorb
Originally posted by: SuperSix
The best penetrating oil is "PB Blaster". You can also use a torch , may be tough not to burn other things around it.

Make SURE not to wipe off the anti-seize that should be on the replacement's threads. If it doesn't have any from the factory, buy some and use it. (MOst come with it from the factory)
I bought some to put on so that this doesn't happen again - will PB Blaster really work? I mean from my end it seems like the thing is sealed on so tight that nothing could get around it!

Yes, it will get in there. Tight to you, but there's space for sneaky liquids. I have used it a lot when working on exhaust systems. Works better when the area is warm.

Have a bit of patience too, I would let is sit, spraying a bit more on for ~ 20 minutes.. WD40 may work, but it's not a penetrating oil per se..
 

Brutuskend

Lifer
Apr 2, 2001
26,558
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Take a torch to it, (the surrounding area at any rate) until it's a nice cherry red and it should come right out.
 

StageLeft

No Lifer
Sep 29, 2000
70,150
5
0
Originally posted by: Brutuskend
Take a torch to it, (the surrounding area at any rate) until it's a nice cherry red and it should come right out.
Thing is I don't have a torch :(
 

Brutuskend

Lifer
Apr 2, 2001
26,558
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Go buy one of those cheapie propane torches.

I have a little butane torch I bought from Snap-On, and that thing comes in HANDY!!!
 

StageLeft

No Lifer
Sep 29, 2000
70,150
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Originally posted by: Brutuskend
Go buy one of those cheapie propane torches.

I have a little butane torch I bought from Snap-On, and that thing comes in HANDY!!!
If this doesn't work I'll get one of those :D

 

Brutuskend

Lifer
Apr 2, 2001
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this is the one I have.

Though, like I said, I bought mine from Snap-On (and paid $79.95)
rolleye.gif
 

SuperSix

Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
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Originally posted by: Brutuskend
this is the one I have.

Though, like I said, I bought mine from Snap-On (and paid $79.95)
rolleye.gif

Ahhh.. the one tool no self-respecting crackhead would be without. ;)
 

Soybomb

Diamond Member
Jun 30, 2000
9,505
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Torch should get it, just be sure to not melt wires, hoses, etc. I've lucked out so far on all mine with pb blaster and a really good breaker bar. Other items have required the blue wrench for removal though :D
 

TekViper

Senior member
Jul 1, 2001
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71
get the longest piece of pipe you can to fit where your working and put it over your wrench. instant breaker bar and google's of torque.
 

ElFenix

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Mar 20, 2000
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<beavis> fire fire ehehehe fiiiiireee! </beavis>
 

StageLeft

No Lifer
Sep 29, 2000
70,150
5
0
Originally posted by: TekViper
get the longest piece of pipe you can to fit where your working and put it over your wrench. instant breaker bar and google's of torque.
Good idea but the prob is that I think that if I torque it much more the exhaust system will bend or something like that, so I want to keep it reasonable ;)

 

Cyberian

Diamond Member
Jun 17, 2000
9,999
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Definitely go with the penetrating oil. When you go to loosen the thing, use a sudden motion rather than a steady pressure. A shot in the tightening direction also sometimes helps to loosen any oxidation/corrosion.
 

desertdweller

Senior member
Jan 6, 2001
588
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If you're going to be replacing the O2 sensor anyway, cut the wires and break the end off it.
Then you can use a regular socket (make sure its a 6 point socket) and a breaker bar.

If you can get the box end of a wrench on it, you might break it loose by hitting the wrench
with a hammer. The shock will usually get the rust to let go. Again, only use a 6 point box wrench
if you're going to do it that way.


DD
 

StageLeft

No Lifer
Sep 29, 2000
70,150
5
0
Oh - are there any problems keeping a car up on ramps overnight? I guess it puts extra weight on the backend, but otherwise no worries...? Maybe I'll have to leave it overnight and finish up in the morning.