Originally posted by: MrsSkoorb
Well, Skoorb is off to see what he can get!
tell him to pick up a new laptop :Q
or am i already too late for that?
Zenmervolt
Elite member
- Oct 22, 2000
- 24,514
- 43
- 91
Should be OK on the ramps all night. Really it's not that different from leaving it parked on an incline. Just make sure that it can't roll off the ramps.
ZV
- Sep 29, 2000
- 70,150
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I just went down and the thing had rolled into somebody's car. OMFG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It's fine
Hand brake on, in gear, and the ramp has lips on it anyway Just went down after 30 min with the wrench and a hammer and the buggar is still on so I applied more PB. I'll try in an hour or so, then if not I'll try tomorrow morning. Then I'll keep trying every 12 hours and I'll try it for 2 days. If it doesn't come off I'll torch it or bring it in somewhere.
Zenmervolt
Elite member
- Oct 22, 2000
- 24,514
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Laugh all you want, I've dropped my car off of it's jackstands more times than once. Damn lucky that no-one was under it either time when it fell.
ZV
EDIT: Also seen the ramps collapse.
- Sep 29, 2000
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Well I had problems getting it on the ramp, so I bought some extensions for low profile cars. I screwed up getting it up on the ramp and on one side one of the extensions shot out and caught under the back tire, so now when I go backwards the low profile front of the car will rub the extension-less ramp. I guess I'll have to jack up the back with the tire-changing jack and get the extension out. Lesson learned.
Breaking jackstands is just something I don't wanna think about.
Didn't know about them. Looks like one would do the job great, except there is definitely not enough clearance to get one back there behind the sensor...
Yes, it's the same reason that people who live in mountainous areas have thier cars fall apart every morning.
I've always been able to get them out with vise grips. kinda squishes them, but, oh well.
Originally posted by: Skoorb
I just went down and the thing had rolled into somebody's car. OMFG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It's fine
Just went down after 30 min with the wrench and a hammer and the buggar is still on so I applied more PB. I'll try in an hour or so, then if not I'll try tomorrow morning. Then I'll keep trying every 12 hours and I'll try it for 2 days. If it doesn't come off I'll torch it or bring it in somewhere.
So after how many days of wrestling with it and waiting will you justify buying a torch or bringing it down to your local garage to have them take a torch to it? As someone who used to work as a mechanic, I know, there are some things that all the PB Blaster or WD40 in the world won't help to loosen.
Squisher
Lifer
- Aug 17, 2000
- 21,204
- 66
- 91
Like others have said shock it by hitting it with a hammer without distorting it. Then hit the wrench with a hammer. If you can't break it free with the wrench by hitting it with a hammer, when you go to turn it, exert the maximum force you're going to use in short quick jerky motions.
Well, he is gone at it again....he has so little patience that it won't be long before he either gets it or come storming in telling me to bring it in tomorrow!
JC
Diamond Member
- Feb 1, 2000
- 5,848
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Hold a wrench on the sensor, then have MrsSkoorb rotate the car in the loosening direction, you'll get more torque on it that way.
Kidding aside, it sounds like the 'blue wrench' is the only way to get that one out without damage to the exhaust system.
JC
Kidding aside, it sounds like the 'blue wrench' is the only way to get that one out without damage to the exhaust system.
JC
Pliablemoose
Lifer
- Oct 11, 1999
- 25,195
- 0
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I enjoy the use of a hammer on stubborn parts @ this point, usually breaks the item loose. and a good sharp pop usually breaks it loose.
Hamburgerpimp
Diamond Member
- Aug 15, 2000
- 7,464
- 1
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Repeatedly soak the area with W40 between sitting time or overnight, then use a wrench & a long pipe that fit over the end of wrench for leverage.
How did you determine it needed to be replaced? How much was it? For what kind of car?
I'd suggest using heat too. There are MANY times on auto repairs where that comes in handy, especially on the old cars I buy. There are a LOT of times I've needed a torch in the past, and all I had was a damn propane one. :disgust: I know what I'm going to ask for Christmas now!
I'd suggest using heat too. There are MANY times on auto repairs where that comes in handy, especially on the old cars I buy. There are a LOT of times I've needed a torch in the past, and all I had was a damn propane one. :disgust: I know what I'm going to ask for Christmas now!
I'll tell you what has worked for me every time in the past, but it's not quick. Soak it down with WD40, PB blaster, or some other penetrating oil Let it set, then knock it with a hammer a few times, then give it a tug. Do this a couple of times a day, and it will eventually come loose. It has taken me several days at times to do this, but it never fails.
If you do heat anything, heat the exhaust pipe around it, you need to keep the sensor as cold as possible. That will cause the metal to expand, which will allow you to break it loose easier.
When you put it back in, make sure and put some anti-sieze compound on the threads of the new one before reinstalling. This also works perfect for sparkplugs and waterpump bolts too too btw.
If you do heat anything, heat the exhaust pipe around it, you need to keep the sensor as cold as possible. That will cause the metal to expand, which will allow you to break it loose easier.
When you put it back in, make sure and put some anti-sieze compound on the threads of the new one before reinstalling. This also works perfect for sparkplugs and waterpump bolts too too btw.
I recommend that in conjuction with the PB blaster. Do that a dozen times: spray on, give a few second of impact knock, wait, then repeat.
A knock with hammer might help, but impact wrench is best.
First off why are you replacing the thing? On Nissans O2 sensor replacement is recommended only if needed. Also the rear o2 sensor on earlier Nissans only monitored the exhaust....and had nothing to do with any running problems. The front O2 sensor was the important one.
Until the sensor starts to loosen, that penetrating oil won't reach the threads, despite what you've seen written here. That torch may be your best bet...but don't count on it. What seems to happen is thread galling (sp?). If you ever do get the thing out, it might ruin the threads. You'll see bunched up pieces of what's left of the threads.
Sounds like you've got a job for a dealer.....
Until the sensor starts to loosen, that penetrating oil won't reach the threads, despite what you've seen written here. That torch may be your best bet...but don't count on it. What seems to happen is thread galling (sp?). If you ever do get the thing out, it might ruin the threads. You'll see bunched up pieces of what's left of the threads.
Sounds like you've got a job for a dealer.....
First you need:
1. Laptop
2. Diego Stuffed animal
part 1:
Give Laptop & Stuffed animal to MrsSkoorbs
Part 2:
MrsSkoorbs gives Skoorbs a mighty hug & kiss
Part 3:
Skoorbs now charged with testosterone can now take out oxygen sensor with his teeth
Cheers,
Aquaman
1. Laptop
2. Diego Stuffed animal
part 1:
Give Laptop & Stuffed animal to MrsSkoorbs
Part 2:
MrsSkoorbs gives Skoorbs a mighty hug & kiss
Part 3:
Skoorbs now charged with testosterone can now take out oxygen sensor with his teeth
Cheers,
Aquaman
Skoorb;
Warm the vehicle up, crawl under the car with a cheapo propane torch, heat the Oxygen sensor for at leats 5 minutes and remove.
Warm the vehicle up, crawl under the car with a cheapo propane torch, heat the Oxygen sensor for at leats 5 minutes and remove.
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