How much additional bottom chord dead load spec'ed on the end trusses?
I spent every evening for 2 weeks hosing it down with water. Didn't make a bit of difference, it still cracked.![]()
lol, as someone who does concrete for a living.. I have to say that there are only 2 types of concrete. The cracked kind, and the kind that is going to crack.
I can't tell from the pics, how often did they cut/joint it? I usually do 10'x10' squares. But the compaction and materials used below the concrete can make it crack as well.
Are you going to do an epoxy coating on the floor or anything? If you plan on doing it then do it before you put any vehicles in the garage, as oil makes it much more difficult to get a lasting epoxy coat. When I do epoxy sometimes I go a few feet up the walls so I can pressure wash everything below my knees.j
Great build thread so far. looks well done.
If you do epoxy it then let the floor settle so most of the cracks are figured out. Take an angle grinder and run it down the cracks and fill it with epoxy then grind it down smooth with the floor then apply the epoxy. This will make your floor looks clean, and hide the old cracks.
Great thread! How many cars can you fit in there total? Glad to see you don't have any annoying lally columns in there- did you specifically design it that way?
When I did my garage and lift, the lift required 50 amps. Since we put a 400 amp service to the house it wan't a big deal. We also went with piers (large concrete blocks) where the lift would go under the concrete. Insulation also helps tremendously on hot days, especially ceiling insulation. If you have water run to the garage, you really need insulaton so that the pipes don't freeze. Also, when I poured the concrete floor, I put in some heavy duty bolts for future body shop needs. Pulling out dents with a come-a-long works great if you have something solid to bolt to. I have two ceiling fans, which work great in both summer and winter. Floor drain for cleaning the floor? You don't have to direct the floor drain to the sewer as a large dug out hole with gravel will also work. Just some tips I thought of since I did a garage years back.
That's really not good. There's no way a slab of that size won't crack, no way no how, it should have had control lines cut. In the grand scheme I doubt it matters and will never impact function. It probably doesn't matter much if it cracks nicely along the control lines or wherever the hell it wants to crack anywayIt's not cut at all. One giant slab. I'm still up in the air about the epoxy. I already had to do some work inside it when my truck needed new balljoints. I ended up re-doing the entire suspension back in February and it was nice to work inside rather than in the driveway.
That's really not good. There's no way a slab of that size won't crack, no way no how, it should have had control lines cut. In the grand scheme I doubt it matters and will never impact function. It probably doesn't matter much if it cracks nicely along the control lines or wherever the hell it wants to crack anywayYou'll never know how your watering it impacted it--even though it cracked (inevitable on that size slab), watering it regularly against the Alabama heat was a good idea.
Nice garage!
They probably cut control lines and filled them in with thin sludge. That's what they did for a slab I had poured.
I forgot about the exterior light.
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It was a bit windy when I installed it and it fell off of the ladder and cracked.
I don't have the tractor yet to spread the gravel for the driveway. I'll spread some manually for the lawn mower and service doors. I'm using a plank of plywood as a ramp for the mower and it is getting old.
I'm definitely capable of framing a wooden structure, but I think the costs would grow quickly. And I would want some supports actually sunk into the concrete, rather than bolted, I would think.