Looking good fuzzy!
Couple comments:
Why does your fuel map go up to 8krpm when your redline is around 7.2krpm? Unless you plan on doing head work and going to 8k you're wasting a little map rez. Not a big deal, but not great practice. If that's how the OTS map came, so be it, probably not a big deal.
On your spark map I would expect a big more of a dip around peak torque, and then I'd expect to see a similar dip in your fuel map.
See the dip around 4400rpm? I don't see anything like that on your map. It means you're either giving up some peak torque by having too much advance, or your giving up some turbo spool up by not being advanced enough through the spool rpms, or maybe a bit of both. This might be something that you'll have to dial in on a dyno.
Your accel enrichment looks decent. Do you like how it responds?
Your boost controller duty cycle drops off right at 6krpm, you might want to up those a bit and see if your turbo no longer falls on it's face.
When you were doing fuel map tuning did you have every fuel modifier disabled? And I mean ALL of them. I recently re-did my base fuel map like that, and now my Miata runs better than ever.
Couple comments:
Why does your fuel map go up to 8krpm when your redline is around 7.2krpm? Unless you plan on doing head work and going to 8k you're wasting a little map rez. Not a big deal, but not great practice. If that's how the OTS map came, so be it, probably not a big deal.
On your spark map I would expect a big more of a dip around peak torque, and then I'd expect to see a similar dip in your fuel map.
See the dip around 4400rpm? I don't see anything like that on your map. It means you're either giving up some peak torque by having too much advance, or your giving up some turbo spool up by not being advanced enough through the spool rpms, or maybe a bit of both. This might be something that you'll have to dial in on a dyno.
Your accel enrichment looks decent. Do you like how it responds?
Your boost controller duty cycle drops off right at 6krpm, you might want to up those a bit and see if your turbo no longer falls on it's face.
When you were doing fuel map tuning did you have every fuel modifier disabled? And I mean ALL of them. I recently re-did my base fuel map like that, and now my Miata runs better than ever.
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The base map came with an 8000rpm map. I just never changed.
Spark map. Ive seen a couple of other spark maps that are supposed to be more aggressive with the timing. Ive been to tempted to try them, but honestly, I still dont know a lot about what Im doing, so Ill stick with the base for now. I think to get that dip set properly it would require the use of a dyno.
Yes, I shut off the Accelleration Enrichment and Decel Enrichement while using VEAL (VE-Analyze Live). Dont think I am running any other fuel modifiers..?
I need to go datalog while I try to pin off the rev limiter so that maybe I can find out why Im losing power up there.
Ive been working on the accel enrichment quite a bit and Ive got it to where is feels good and doesnt have a lean spike right after I hit the gas. It looks and feels good.
And Jlee... I agree, its soon time to drop the dough to get it tuned properly. I talked with a Dyno shop locally but they said they arent familiar with imports but are open to remote tuning if need be. They would want $150/hour. seems steep. IIRC ATS racing will do remote tuning, but I have no idea what they would charge.
Do you have a knock sensor hooked up to the MS? Without that I wouldn't do much, or any, spark changes.
If you do have a knock sensor you'll want to do things systematically: take a datalog of a particular set of conditions ( i.e. running up through your spool-up at WOT in 4th gear), then change the spark cells used in those conditions, then repeat the test. Megalog viewer will be able to calculate instantaneous power, average fuel consumption, and a few other parameters by which you can judge the effect of your changes.
Other fuel modifiers that you might consider removing are the coolant temperature compensations and IAT compensations, but those are not nearly as important as the acel and decel compensations you already disabled. The biggie to disable during tuning is the EGO (exhaust gas oxygen) correction, i.e. letting the MS use your WBO2 sensor and target AFR table to adjust fueling on the fly.
Definitely post up a datalog so we can try and help figure out why you're not getting good boost near redline!
If you do have a knock sensor you'll want to do things systematically: take a datalog of a particular set of conditions ( i.e. running up through your spool-up at WOT in 4th gear), then change the spark cells used in those conditions, then repeat the test. Megalog viewer will be able to calculate instantaneous power, average fuel consumption, and a few other parameters by which you can judge the effect of your changes.
Other fuel modifiers that you might consider removing are the coolant temperature compensations and IAT compensations, but those are not nearly as important as the acel and decel compensations you already disabled. The biggie to disable during tuning is the EGO (exhaust gas oxygen) correction, i.e. letting the MS use your WBO2 sensor and target AFR table to adjust fueling on the fly.
Definitely post up a datalog so we can try and help figure out why you're not getting good boost near redline!
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Here isa log of when the car is hitting the false rev limit. It gets there then just kinda bogs
Well, your AFRs are in the toilet, which is definitely costing you power. I, personally, would keep them at 11 or above. 9.x is far too rich and is likely to 'wash down' oil on your cylinder walls leading to cylinder wall scoring along with robbing you of power.
I also notice your MAP dipping slightly after the point you have highlighted, though that may be a symptom and not a cause.
The same datalog with spark angle and boost controller duty cycle would be nice.
I also notice your MAP dipping slightly after the point you have highlighted, though that may be a symptom and not a cause.
The same datalog with spark angle and boost controller duty cycle would be nice.
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been pretty busy lately... hence late reply.
spark angle? how do I show that? do you mean spark advance?
Its weird. Its feels like Id be driving thru mud when this happens. Just bogs right down. Also, why is it showing my TP as waivering if Im flooring it?
spark angle? how do I show that? do you mean spark advance?
Its weird. Its feels like Id be driving thru mud when this happens. Just bogs right down. Also, why is it showing my TP as waivering if Im flooring it?
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Yar, spark angle is a more general term for spark advance (note that they're expressed in degrees, like an angle!). Some cars will use a negative spark angle (spark retard) in certain operating conditions. /sidenote
The waivering TP is likely from a crappy TPS sensor or some issue with the wiring. I would suggest cleaning up any and all electrical contacts having to do with the TPS (specifically any grounds on the TPS) and ensuring that all connections are nice and tight. A little di-electric grease helps too!
You're hitting a peak MAP of 124kPa... 23kPa of boost... or about 3.3psi of boost. That's... not good. Two things to check first: any boost leaks under pressure (my MS3 had a boost leak that only opened up past 14psi) and your boost controller plumbing/wiring/or control. Something weird is going on if you're only seeing 3psi of boost.
Also, your AFRs are spiking a bit lean while you're still at WOT (far right on the plot). You might need to add a LOT of fuel up there, or your WBO2 time delay is way too big.
Did I make an ounce of sense?
The waivering TP is likely from a crappy TPS sensor or some issue with the wiring. I would suggest cleaning up any and all electrical contacts having to do with the TPS (specifically any grounds on the TPS) and ensuring that all connections are nice and tight. A little di-electric grease helps too!
You're hitting a peak MAP of 124kPa... 23kPa of boost... or about 3.3psi of boost. That's... not good. Two things to check first: any boost leaks under pressure (my MS3 had a boost leak that only opened up past 14psi) and your boost controller plumbing/wiring/or control. Something weird is going on if you're only seeing 3psi of boost.
Also, your AFRs are spiking a bit lean while you're still at WOT (far right on the plot). You might need to add a LOT of fuel up there, or your WBO2 time delay is way too big.
Did I make an ounce of sense?
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I think it's just pure over fueling.
tonight I recalibrate the throttle position sensor.
then shut off all the fuel enrichments.
then manually lowered all ve numbers above 6000rpm
then ran ve-analyze to correct those numbers.
After doing this I can now rev up to 6800, so I'm getting closer.
tomorrow if I'm not too wiped after work I may head into the track and see what kind of numbers I can pull on the 1/4 mile. I wanted to go last week but was just too tired.
with the wavering tps... I think I may need to do a little work in the wiring loom and really focus on segregating those wires away from high current wires.
tonight I recalibrate the throttle position sensor.
then shut off all the fuel enrichments.
then manually lowered all ve numbers above 6000rpm
then ran ve-analyze to correct those numbers.
After doing this I can now rev up to 6800, so I'm getting closer.
tomorrow if I'm not too wiped after work I may head into the track and see what kind of numbers I can pull on the 1/4 mile. I wanted to go last week but was just too tired.
with the wavering tps... I think I may need to do a little work in the wiring loom and really focus on segregating those wires away from high current wires.
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Well. Snapped an axle on my second run at the track. Gotta get towed home. Shitty.
Was able to get one sad run in though.
Was able to get one sad run in though.
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Oh...derp b2na. I was on the right.
13.5 at 100mph. I was babying it too cuz it was first run. I know it can do better.
and these are CRW axles so I have warranty on them.
13.5 at 100mph. I was babying it too cuz it was first run. I know it can do better.
and these are CRW axles so I have warranty on them.
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No. It pulled out of the water trap just fine. Then as soon as dropped clutch at the line it was 'crack' and no go.
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I snapped an axle in a minivan in the snow/ice. Shit happens. A manufacturing flaw like Black2NA says.
I *think*you haz the mad skillz to replace it
I *think*you haz the mad skillz to replace it
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Ya, it's an easy fix. I could replace this one in less than 30min. Really easy. It's the tortuous wait for the new axle which will drive me mad.
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