You mean make it out of a material that will shatter the instant you look at it the wrong way?
You mean make it out of a material that will shatter the instant you look at it the wrong way?
exdeath
Lifer
- Jan 29, 2004
- 13,679
- 10
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You mean make it out of a material that will shatter the instant you look at it the wrong way?
:sneaky:
So, fuzzy has contracted my services to build a new set of engine mounts to replace the epic fail of his old engine mounts.
I started off modeling the old engine mounts in SolidWorks and running a basic FEA to benchmark the mounts' strength. Peak stresses were 55ksi and 123ksi respectively given a 1,000lbf load (far more than I would ever expect the mounts to see). Needless to say, both models showed material yield/failure, but I'm just bench marking to show an improvement, not to prove ultimate performance.
So, then I designed a new pair of engine mounts that showed considerably improved strength.
In a fit of engineering brilliance I tested a design revision using thinner side-plates. They proved to be even stronger because there is a smoother transition in part stiffness, so stresses were spread out through more material. Lighter and stronger? PFE.
End result is a set of engine mounts of very similar weight that are ~6.5-8x stronger than the originals. Shouldn't be any clearance issues either.
I made tool paths and cut out the plates on a CNC plasma cutter I have access to. Progress!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSlFp0A7iMk
I started off modeling the old engine mounts in SolidWorks and running a basic FEA to benchmark the mounts' strength. Peak stresses were 55ksi and 123ksi respectively given a 1,000lbf load (far more than I would ever expect the mounts to see). Needless to say, both models showed material yield/failure, but I'm just bench marking to show an improvement, not to prove ultimate performance.
So, then I designed a new pair of engine mounts that showed considerably improved strength.
In a fit of engineering brilliance I tested a design revision using thinner side-plates. They proved to be even stronger because there is a smoother transition in part stiffness, so stresses were spread out through more material. Lighter and stronger? PFE.
End result is a set of engine mounts of very similar weight that are ~6.5-8x stronger than the originals. Shouldn't be any clearance issues either.
I made tool paths and cut out the plates on a CNC plasma cutter I have access to. Progress!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSlFp0A7iMk
jlee
Lifer
- Sep 12, 2001
- 48,518
- 223
- 106
- Jan 30, 2008
- 3,260
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dude that is so fricken cool!
Little bit of fail on the third piece for the lol.
Cant wait to see what you come up with for final product.
In the meantime Ill do a little work on fixing this
I mean, thats if I can get pulled away from BF4. Really hard to get motivated when there is a foot of snow on the ground.
Little bit of fail on the third piece for the lol.
Cant wait to see what you come up with for final product.
In the meantime Ill do a little work on fixing this
I mean, thats if I can get pulled away from BF4. Really hard to get motivated when there is a foot of snow on the ground.
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- Jan 30, 2008
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Well, after a couple of months of ignoring the car I've started working on it little by little again.
Rust took a hold of things and ate its way thru the horribad repair job previously done by a shop out in British Columbia. I was horrified to see the above photo when I dug into the places where paint is bubbling. They did ZERO metal repair and instead just plastered over the rust with bondo. It looked good when I bought it, but has quickly fallen apart.
Im not going to put in a terrible amount of effort into it. Just a bit of fiberglass and bondo.
What I want to do is put on some fender flares. This will allow for some nice WIDE tires in the rear. Im thinking 245/45/16 RE11 in the rear with 16x8 0et rims. In the front will be 225/50/16 with 16x8 20et rims.
First step, Tape up the area, mount the flare in the approximate area of mounting. and draw lines on the tape to indicate mounting location.
Cut away the rusty outer shell of the factory fender, leaving about 1.5 inches from mounting location. That first cut with the grinder was a tough one to do... just gotta say "ok, this is it, im reaaally doing this."
Then cut a slot into the inner wheel well every inch. This will allow for a larger/wider wheel to fit.
Fold up the pieces and weld them onto the outer shell.
Rust protect and glass over the exposed metal (photo from first layer of glass on other side. Forgot to get photo of first side)
A little bit of primer and reattach flare. This side is still needing a lot of glass work before Im done. But this is a photo from before I started cutting.
And right now Im debating putting flares in the front... but most likely so.
vs
After Im done all this I need to modify the suspension by cutting off the factory spring perches and welding the coil overs lower down on the strut housing.
Rust took a hold of things and ate its way thru the horribad repair job previously done by a shop out in British Columbia. I was horrified to see the above photo when I dug into the places where paint is bubbling. They did ZERO metal repair and instead just plastered over the rust with bondo. It looked good when I bought it, but has quickly fallen apart.
Im not going to put in a terrible amount of effort into it. Just a bit of fiberglass and bondo.
What I want to do is put on some fender flares. This will allow for some nice WIDE tires in the rear. Im thinking 245/45/16 RE11 in the rear with 16x8 0et rims. In the front will be 225/50/16 with 16x8 20et rims.
First step, Tape up the area, mount the flare in the approximate area of mounting. and draw lines on the tape to indicate mounting location.
Cut away the rusty outer shell of the factory fender, leaving about 1.5 inches from mounting location. That first cut with the grinder was a tough one to do... just gotta say "ok, this is it, im reaaally doing this."
Then cut a slot into the inner wheel well every inch. This will allow for a larger/wider wheel to fit.
Fold up the pieces and weld them onto the outer shell.
Rust protect and glass over the exposed metal (photo from first layer of glass on other side. Forgot to get photo of first side)
A little bit of primer and reattach flare. This side is still needing a lot of glass work before Im done. But this is a photo from before I started cutting.
And right now Im debating putting flares in the front... but most likely so.
vs
After Im done all this I need to modify the suspension by cutting off the factory spring perches and welding the coil overs lower down on the strut housing.
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- Jan 30, 2008
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Been working over the last few weeks getting the flares and body kits to fit. Its coming out ok. Not exact fit on any part but good nuf
I used dry wall mounting hardware to mount the flares and side skirts, so they are easily removable!
The amount of clearance I have now is huge. This photo is with one of the wheels that were on the car when i bought it.
Due to some clearance issues I wont be able to fit a much larger tire in the front than what I already have. these 205/50/15 (et30) nearly rub the well as I turn. I may have to do some adjusting to get a larger wheel in there.
In the rear I can go MUCH larger.
Looking at 245/50/16 in the rear and 205/45/16 in the front.
I used dry wall mounting hardware to mount the flares and side skirts, so they are easily removable!
The amount of clearance I have now is huge. This photo is with one of the wheels that were on the car when i bought it.
Due to some clearance issues I wont be able to fit a much larger tire in the front than what I already have. these 205/50/15 (et30) nearly rub the well as I turn. I may have to do some adjusting to get a larger wheel in there.
In the rear I can go MUCH larger.
Looking at 245/50/16 in the rear and 205/45/16 in the front.
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I coach an FRC team, and we've been neck-deep in our build season since the holidays, so I haven'thad much time to work on engine mounts. Fortunately things are calmed down enough right now that I was able to get some work in today.
Cleaned up and bent one of the anchoring plates:
Did a final fitment test on one complete mount assembly, and have blanked out the new motor mount bushings.
Cleaned up and bent one of the anchoring plates:
Did a final fitment test on one complete mount assembly, and have blanked out the new motor mount bushings.
- Jan 30, 2008
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Awe yeaaa buuuud. That looks nice and quality. You also have one fancy looking drill bit set there.
I took a few hours this afternoon and removed the spring perches from the strut housing. I am now able to get another 2" lower all around. The front sits higher than the rear at the lowest setting, so I will need to raise the back a little.
I also have 20mm spacers coming for this set of rims. Should be here tomorrow
Unfortunately I will need to re-cut, re-weld, and fiberglass the rear quarters all over again. I didnt cut high enough behind the flare and may not have enough clearance with the new rims/rubber I bought. They wont arrive till the end of april though so I have lots of time.
I took a few hours this afternoon and removed the spring perches from the strut housing. I am now able to get another 2" lower all around. The front sits higher than the rear at the lowest setting, so I will need to raise the back a little.
I also have 20mm spacers coming for this set of rims. Should be here tomorrow
Unfortunately I will need to re-cut, re-weld, and fiberglass the rear quarters all over again. I didnt cut high enough behind the flare and may not have enough clearance with the new rims/rubber I bought. They wont arrive till the end of april though so I have lots of time.
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- Jan 30, 2008
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Painting Commences!
I finished up re-doing the quarter panels. I cut them about 1.75" higher than I originally had. Gives a little more clearance behind the fender flare.
However in doing so I decided to blend in the mounting hardware into the body.
These are what I used
Then I blended them right in with a little body fill.
So my flares arent permanent - in case one gets damaged it is easily removed and repairable.
I also received some Ichiba spacers. This will push the rims I currently have out 20mm... making them pretty much +10et offset. The new rims coming in april will sit 10mm further yet towards the fender. I had to get longer lug bolts pressed in, and a new bearing... wont install these till paint dries. Maybe tomorrow.
timers going... another layer and paint should be good.
I finished up re-doing the quarter panels. I cut them about 1.75" higher than I originally had. Gives a little more clearance behind the fender flare.
However in doing so I decided to blend in the mounting hardware into the body.
These are what I used
Then I blended them right in with a little body fill.
So my flares arent permanent - in case one gets damaged it is easily removed and repairable.
I also received some Ichiba spacers. This will push the rims I currently have out 20mm... making them pretty much +10et offset. The new rims coming in april will sit 10mm further yet towards the fender. I had to get longer lug bolts pressed in, and a new bearing... wont install these till paint dries. Maybe tomorrow.
timers going... another layer and paint should be good.
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- Jan 30, 2008
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Now that I have the wheels back on with spacers Im much happier with the clearance between the tire and inner arch. Shouldnt need to worry about scrubbing.
These rims/tires snug in there decently, but the new rims will poke out another 1.25" farther and will hopefully look way better
These rims/tires snug in there decently, but the new rims will poke out another 1.25" farther and will hopefully look way better
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- Jan 30, 2008
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I want to reroute my fuel fill line in the engine bay,
Can I use any stainless steel tubing for this? Or does it need to have a special fuel resistant coating?
Can I use any stainless steel tubing for this? Or does it need to have a special fuel resistant coating?
You can use any fuel-rated hose and almost any hard-line material as far as I know. No worm clamps though! They've been known to fail in fuel line applications because they can easily damage the tube. There are special fuel-line clamps that you should use.
Lines with stainless braids are a tricky proposition since you can't really inspect the line and the braid will trap sand/dust against the hose and accelerate abrasion unless it is plastic coated.
Lines with stainless braids are a tricky proposition since you can't really inspect the line and the braid will trap sand/dust against the hose and accelerate abrasion unless it is plastic coated.
- Jan 30, 2008
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Any hardline you say? Awesome.
I already have fuel rated hose from my side mounted fuel fill location that I can use.
I am relocating my fuel fill location to here
Because the sidemounted cap leaks. Somehow under hard acceleration fuel is working its way up the line and leaking out on my quarter panel. Not really ideal.
I bought this on sale for half price.
Now I just need to find some elbows and reroute the line.
I already have fuel rated hose from my side mounted fuel fill location that I can use.
I am relocating my fuel fill location to here
Because the sidemounted cap leaks. Somehow under hard acceleration fuel is working its way up the line and leaking out on my quarter panel. Not really ideal.
I bought this on sale for half price.
Now I just need to find some elbows and reroute the line.
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What size hardline are we talking about? What material were you thinking? They're all pretty much fuel-proof, but some have potential work-hardening concerns (stainless steel, for example).
- Jan 30, 2008
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I believe I need 2" to match the factory MK1 fill line and the hose I have. But I will need to double check after I get home today.
- Jan 30, 2008
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I found a 12ft length of 1" copper tubing at my local hardware store marked at half price because it was slightly crimped. Nabbed it up and rebuilt my Air to Water Intercooler piping with copper hard lines. The soft lines kept getting pinched and restricting water flow. This solves all flow issues. Shouldnt have to worry about intake temperatures anymore. Zip ties are temporary as I mock thinks up.
I placed the pump in the frunk (front trunk) to get it out of the elements. Also installed a small filler pot to allow bubbles to escape and to keep the system full. Clear hose allows me to see how many bubbles or foam is in the system. Ideally I would use pure distilled water but the climate here wont allow for that. The black crap in this photo is just rubber undercoating that I sprayed after relocating my battery.
Now Im going to start the big project. Rerouting my engine wiring... again.
I placed the pump in the frunk (front trunk) to get it out of the elements. Also installed a small filler pot to allow bubbles to escape and to keep the system full. Clear hose allows me to see how many bubbles or foam is in the system. Ideally I would use pure distilled water but the climate here wont allow for that. The black crap in this photo is just rubber undercoating that I sprayed after relocating my battery.
Now Im going to start the big project. Rerouting my engine wiring... again.
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- Jan 30, 2008
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sweet. Eagerly awaiting.
Finished up rewiring the engine harness and got 'er running again. I isolated most of the wires from each other in an attempt to prevent interference. I think I was getting some signal noise on my Throttle Position Sensor wiring which was causing some tuning issues. Hoping this will cure all that and it also looks a lot neater in the engine bay. I moved all wiring back to the trunk again instead of behind the drivers seat.
low light photo of engine bay currently
Found some rubber welting to use around the fender flares to help hide gaps.
Waiting to take a bath and waiting on New Shoes!
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- Jan 30, 2008
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Heavy-duty mode activated:
oh hey,
as long as the inner diameter of that bar isnt more narrow than the holes on the bottom of the original piece. The bolts that go up in there have a washer that just barely squeezes thru that hole.
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The test fit I used was with a flange-head automotive metric bolt, it fit in just fine, with a bit of play in both directions. I did have that concern too.
If you measure the bolts that you used to mount it I'll toss in some flange head bolts of the appropriate size. I have 40lbs of Toyota hardware arriving today!
With the considerably thicker wall of the tubing I selected the washers should no longer be necessary, if they were even necessary in the first place.
If you measure the bolts that you used to mount it I'll toss in some flange head bolts of the appropriate size. I have 40lbs of Toyota hardware arriving today!
With the considerably thicker wall of the tubing I selected the washers should no longer be necessary, if they were even necessary in the first place.
- Jan 30, 2008
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How do you ensure that two weird engine mounts line up exactly? Why, with some router fixturing of course.
Pretty much all welded up.
Mostly just a little bit of finishing work left to do.
Pretty much all welded up.
Mostly just a little bit of finishing work left to do.
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