FuzzyDunlops Toyota MR2 MK1.5 build thread.

[JCH13]

Ya, it's an easy fix. I could replace this one in less than 30min. Really easy. It's the tortuous wait for the new axle which will drive me mad.

Indeed! Know that feel bro.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Talked with Chico Race Works and there is no argument from them so far about immediate replacement. The only cost to me is time and shipping. But he said he'd get a new axle out to me asap. So hopefully within a couple weeks. Should be able to hit the 1/4 a few times before snow starts to fly

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

welp... I finally had a day to get working on this. Still havent received a new axle but I thought I would get things ready for when it did come in.
Then i found that the bearing is also Borked.
Durrr. So now I need to wait for that to come in from www.kbox.ca and then wait for it to get pressed into the hub.
Heres the broken axle

In the meantime my harleys been getting a lot of action

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Ive been searching for a shop to tune my car properly but have been having troubles finding one some capable/willing.

This is what one guy said about megasquirt and why he will not work with it

My problem with mega squirt is more so the actual code and engineering. The last time I checked timing scatter on a MS unit was horrendous as well as the transition loop from various tables to one another.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Five weeks and my axle is STILL NOT HERE.

Im going nuts because the weather has been immaculate lately.

If you ever ship to Canada I highly recommend using a shipping service with tracking. Its a MUST to use tracking because our customs and border agents are retards.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Continuation of "F my life" thread.


I went out to take some photos and measurements of my axle placement today, so that I could compare with other MK1.5 or Mk2 drivetrains. The hope was to find a reason why I was breaking axles. Well I found out why and I am NOT happy.

Lavaheadache is awarded 3 Cookies!


I have every confidence that the exploding axles is not the fault of the manufacturer. Because of this, and in order to be fair, I will send Josh at Chico Race Works a full payment for the two new axles he is providing. (They were under warranty and he was replacing them at no cost).

On the other hand I have a HUGE gripe about the manufacturer of my Engine Torgue Mounts. Both the front and rear mounts have FAILED.

To me the clear culprit is the rear mount. These welds look like they had almost no penetration.

The front mount just completely snapped... most likely due to the rear mount giving out in first place and causing undue stress to the front.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

These mounts were not under warranty, but I am seriously questioning the quality of those welds.

As for my axle placement... My axles do not come straight out of the differential. They make about a 10*-15* bend backwards towards the hub. Thats not excessive is it? The reason the axles snapped is that while the torque mounts are not in place it allows the engine to twist backwards making the angle much much larger.


This is a photo of the left side when I lift the engine to where it shoud be

The angle thats made on the right side when the torque mounts are removed. THis angle becomes much worse as the engine twists backwards.

Anyways.

here is some pictures of the destruction for shits'n'gigs.

Front mount crack. Notice that it cracked at the exact spot the weld ends. SO I DONT KNOW IF THIS BROKE FIRST, OR IF THE REAR MOUNT LET OUT FIRST. WHAT DO YOU THINK?

 

[lavaheadache]

Winner winner chicken dinner! Glad you got it sorted. How do I go about claiming my cookies?

To think people doubted me... sheesh

 

[Black2na]

Yeah thats gross there is no penitration on those welds which i would believe caused the failure.

 

[michal1980]

rear mount first. no weld penetration. the weld itself was barely holding the two pieces together.

Just look at the amount of rust in between. water was getting in there for a very long time.

The front mount just died from overloading/fatigue. You can see the metal stretched before it gave up the ghost. A crack happen and it went bye bye. You can also see the difference in surface quality. Almost no rust on the front mount vs all that rust on the rear.

Whoever made those must have either no quality control. Or hired noobs to weld, and those noobs were drunk.

 

[DaTT]

I highly suspect your engine mounts caused the axle breakage. They probably broke due to very poor welds. (I too want cookies)

Glad you found the culprit. Where in Canada are you. You mentioned something about finding someone to tune your car...I may know someone if you're in the Southern Ontario area.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

nah, Im in alberta. I found one guy near me that specializes in imports but he refuses to work with megasquirt. Everyone else tunes domestics. There is a guy in Calgary that works on MR2's, I might call him up to see if he could do it.

I sent an email to the guys that made my engine mounts, no reply yet, probably wont hear back till after weekend. After some looking around on the forums it appears that Im not the first to have their torque mounts break. Other guys have posted photos of the front mounts being broken in nearly the same place as mine, but nobody has posted a rear mount like mine yet.

 

[alkalinetaupehat]

...you're going to send Lavaheadache those cookies right?

Seriously though. We here in AT Garage take cookies as no laughing matter.



'Grats on finding the source of your problem though, that's got to be a huge relief!

 

[JCH13]

Full disclaimer: haven't done any CV axle design in 4 years, memory is fuzzy. 10-15deg is on the higher end of things, something like 18-20deg and you start running into the danger zone.

Those engine mounts are positively heinous. I too think that that rear mount failed first, the fact that rust was able to form essentially inside the weld joint , which was laughably cold, greatly weakened an already shitty joint. The front one likely failed immediately afterwards. The fact that the front mount failed right next to a weld joint suggests that there might have been undercutting or thermal stress issues.

I'm not sure what you want to do about replacement engine mounts, but I'm thinking a solution a la the wastegate adapter forged in kitty litter would be a good way to go: built custom and built to withstand carpocalypse.

 

[Black2na]

I'm not sure what you want to do about replacement engine mounts, but I'm thinking a solution a la the wastegate adapter forged in kitty litter would be a good way to go: built custom and built to withstand carpocalypse.

not everyone has a JCH at there disposal like i do or Jlee did at the some you forged that for him

 

[lavaheadache]

...you're going to send Lavaheadache those cookies right?

Seriously though. We here in AT Garage take cookies as no laughing matter.



'Grats on finding the source of your problem though, that's got to be a huge relief!

seriously! I want my cookies. I nailed the diagnosis on the first post :whiste:


Now if only I had the same powers in video cards and graphics sub forums......

 

[JCH13]

not everyone has a JCH at there disposal like i do or Jlee did at the some you forged that for him

The postal service does exist!

Though Canada might take an extra day or two...

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Ooooh, really!?!. I like this idea. I get to have my very own forged in da kitty litter JCH13 signature part attached to my car!

I can send you measurements.

and LH, I'm working on the cookie bit...

 

[JCH13]

Ooooh, really!?!. I like this idea. I get to have my very own forged in da kitty litter JCH13 signature part attached to my car!

I can send you measurements.

and LH, I'm working on the cookie bit...

Please do! If you give me enough dimensions (maybe even the busted parts?) and approximate clearances around them I can make a model of the mounts. I have access to a CNC plasma cutter and a friend of mine has a CNC mill. I can then get the pieces cut out and weld it up for you for a modest fee.

I assume these are the mounts you got? If so, I can do way better than $500+shipping, especially if you keep the bushings/inserts you already have. If you don't like those inserts, send those over too and/or measure them and I can have replacements made out of delrin (or really any plastic you want) but delrin is somewhat expensive to buy.

I'm thinking thicker walls, 4130-4140 alloy steel, and the genuine certified kitty litter 5000(tm) cool-down treatment to ensure strong, ductile, welds.

You know you want to.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Yar, those be them. That price included the CNC'd side mounts which are much more robust.

PM me your address, ill look into getting these mounts sent to you. That'll be easier than trying send measurements. That way you can also laugh at the welds... and use them as an example of what NOT to do.

 

[JCH13]

Yar, those be them. That price included the CNC'd side mounts which are much more robust.

PM me your address, ill look into getting these mounts sent to you. That'll be easier than trying send measurements. That way you can also laugh at the welds... and use them as an example of what NOT to do.

Sure thing. Do you still want the ability to weld the mounts in place? Or would you like me to exactly recreate the geometry of the broken ones?

 

[lavaheadache]

JCH13, What kind of fab work are you capable of?

 

[JCH13]

JCH13, What kind of fab work are you capable of?

A decent bit in-house (in-garage?): bandsaw (wood/metal), table saw (metal with a new blade, wood), chop saw (wood, metal), press, press-brake (bending sheet/plate), AC/DC TIG, drill press, couple bench grinders, buffer, a hella-crazy belt sander that can notch tube, most hand-held power tools, and many hand tools.

If I count my outside shop access it's nearly unlimited: CNC plasma (4'x8' capacity), CNC prototrak mill, smaller CNC 4-axis mill, manual mill, manual lathe, 4' finger break, air shears, hydraulic shears/punch, tubing benders with a variety of round and square dies.... and more. If it's super critical or specialty, I can shell out some cash to a local waterjet guy who does fantastic work.

I also have SolidWorks, CREO, COMSOL, and DraftSight for modeling parts, doing FEAs, and making waterjet and plasma cutter patterns.

I do pretty fast turn-around for stuff I can do in my garage, other work is done more slowly as friends can get extra work in or as I have extra time to go to various shops and do it myself.

I am (slowly) trying to build up a fab business on the side because I like doing it so much, which is why I'm always whoring myself out to make stuff :awe:

 

[exdeath]

Chris fix it. Mill new mounts out of boron carbide billet, inch thick at the smallest dimension, all radiused transitions with no edges or corners.

 

[exdeath]

A decent bit in-house (in-garage?): bandsaw (wood/metal), table saw (metal with a new blade, wood), chop saw (wood, metal), press, press-brake (bending sheet/plate), AC/DC TIG, drill press, couple bench grinders, buffer, a hella-crazy belt sander that can notch tube, most hand-held power tools, and many hand tools.

If I count my outside shop access it's nearly unlimited: CNC plasma (4'x8' capacity), CNC prototrak mill, smaller CNC 4-axis mill, manual mill, manual lathe, 4' finger break, air shears, hydraulic shears/punch, tubing benders with a variety of round and square dies.... and more. If it's super critical or specialty, I can shell out some cash to a local waterjet guy who does fantastic work.

I also have SolidWorks, CREO, COMSOL, and DraftSight for modeling parts, doing FEAs, and making waterjet and plasma cutter patterns.

I do pretty fast turn-around for stuff I can do in my garage, other work is done more slowly as friends can get extra work in or as I have extra time to go to various shops and do it myself.

I am (slowly) trying to build up a fab business on the side because I like doing it so much, which is why I'm always whoring myself out to make stuff :awe:

I know where I'm going when I need to make suppressors and full auto sears and disconnectors when the zombies come and disband the ATF.