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fresh home build coming soon

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It just occurred to me that I could rent out our extra room, has a full bath and separate heat and AC. Plenty of room for a small kitchen as well.
 
I think I'll bring my ufer ground rebar to just below the floor grade, and stab a styrofoam block over it.
The finisher can finish right over it and then I'll take the shop vac and a screwdriver and excavate it out.
I'll bring it up in that same wall that the panel's going to be in, and I'll cut the conduits down below slab. I can just leave a notch in the wall plate to bolt onto the ufer.
How does that sound, @herm0016 ?
 
skyking said:
I think I'll bring my ufer ground rebar to just below the floor grade, and stab a styrofoam block over it.
The finisher can finish right over it and then I'll take the shop vac and a screwdriver and excavate it out.
I'll bring it up in that same wall that the panel's going to be in, and I'll cut the conduits down below slab. I can just leave a notch in the wall plate to bolt onto the ufer.
How does that sound, @herm0016 ?
Click to expand...
Sounds like you need to put down the pipe. Have I missed something here?
 
The job has not started yet, I hope to break ground in March or April. Just spitballing until I can get started.
Main conduit, the pump power and alarm conduits, any spares to the outside world.
Water service.
4" sewer out and a 2" vent back in from the pump chamber.
(12) 1.5" conduit sweeps for the ground loops for GSHPs.
 
skyking said:
I think I'll bring my ufer ground rebar to just below the floor grade, and stab a styrofoam block over it.
The finisher can finish right over it and then I'll take the shop vac and a screwdriver and excavate it out.
I'll bring it up in that same wall that the panel's going to be in, and I'll cut the conduits down below slab. I can just leave a notch in the wall plate to bolt onto the ufer.
How does that sound, @herm0016 ?
Click to expand...
Sounds like the inspector will make you drive 2 8 ft 5/8 ground rods a min. of 6 feet apart outside if you do all that.

all your conduit should go right into your panel.
maybe I don't get what you mean by "cut off the conduits below slab? " should be sch. 80 pvc, emt or ridged pipe above ground with expansion couplings.

Your ufer needs to be accessible per code. we have had to put access panels on the outside of buildings when they get put in stupid spots before. just bring it up in the wall and run your ground. i'm not sure a little notch under the wall plate will qualify. If the ufer is below the slab and the gec (grounding electrode conductor) goes through a notch to below the plate, I would not like it as an inspector. you have to be able to check that it's tight and for corrosion.

You can save some scratch if you run big aluminum for your service, a J box and switch to copper to make connections in the panel easy. I did this for the 300 ft run to my barn, as wire bending space in my fused disconnect on the pole would not accept 4/0, #2 copper was no problem though.

if memory serves, your pulls from the transformer and the pedestal will be far, I would run rigid 90's to prevent any issues during your pulls. have seen mule tape cut pvc elbows right through. wrap them well with something like the stretchy flashing tape.
 
I'll have the 2 1/2" up for inspection, cut it down for the pour and then couple it back up. I'd lay the Ufer horizontal for the pour and finish and bend it up next to the rigid conduit below the panel. how much has to stick out of the slab?
Because of the disconnect required on the outside of the house, I will have a pair of runs that end on the west corner outside wall of the basement. The run from there into the house is ~40' where the equipment room is.
The run to the corner of the house is maybe 50' from the meter base by the transformer.
The long run is primary by the power company to the transformer.
 
40 or 50 feet is not bad. i guess that would work, i just worry you open your self up for some issues if the bar snaps, or you get concrete in the conduit. i usually see about a foot with a hook on the top couple inches. nothing in nec about height.
 
We cut down pipe all the time so keeping the concrete out is not new science.
I have to bring the conduit out for the solar panel Rapid Shutdown (RSD) switch. It makes sense to co-locate that with the house disconnect.
I'll bury a couple for Cable/fiber and bring them to a box out away from the house.
 
Greenman said:
The price isn't bad at all. If you had a pet Penguin this would be a must have item.
Click to expand...
Sounds like you and skyking have never owned an undercounter ice maker.
Let me tell you, mine makes up to 50# a day and holds 25# (according to the OEM).
Yes, there are just 2 of us now, but it means we never run out of ice, (think company, boiling eggs, ice packs, frozen drinks, living in FL 😱, etc.)
Plus, you then can move to a separate freezer and separate refrigerator, and the freezer doesn't have all that space used by the icemaker.
Good ones are 'bout $1600-$2400 these days, but once you've had one, you really wonder how you did without one.
They need electricity, water and a drain. If a drain is not available, they also come with an optional pump (kinda like a condensate pump).
When our last one finally gave up the ghost and I told the wife it was beyond fixing reasonably, my wife's only question (and she is even more "frugal" then me) was, "how soon will the new one be here?"
Ask anyone that owns one if they would go back to an "in the freezer compartment" or an "in the door" icemaker, I guarantee you won't find anyone that would.
 
Micrornd said:
So this will be your first Mississippi (or was it Alabama) summer?
Click to expand...
I don't think I've ever needed so much ice that I've run out, unless you're making giant pitchers of ice tea and sitting outside all day. Insulated cups maintains my ice through multiple refills these days. I live in Houston, and our summers are just as bad.

I could buy hundreds of bags of ice for parties/etc and still not break even with an ice maker.

Unless you have excess undercounter space, I just can't see the viability - but everyone is different.
 
Everyone has different needs and uses in their home, some are sensible, some seem dumb to me.
My house has a large jetted tub in the master bath, totally useless to me, I may fill it with dirt and grow flowers in it. They appear to be considered necessary in every "upscale" house here in the South. I'm also pretty sure "upscale" means no wheels.
 
Greenman said:
Everyone has different needs and uses in their home, some are sensible, some seem dumb to me.
My house has a large jetted tub in the master bath, totally useless to me, I may fill it with dirt and grow flowers in it. They appear to be considered necessary in every "upscale" house here in the South. I'm also pretty sure "upscale" means no wheels.
Click to expand...
We are putting in 1 bathtub upstairs in a shared full bath.
It will be a 6' tub for us taller folks, and is the standard tub/shower.
The rest of the bathrooms are large roll in showers with no threshholds.
If somebody brings a child that needs dunked in a tub, we have one. Everybody else I know likes a nice shower.
The downstairs main bath could get one of those stupid tubs in it, with a little wall knocking out and move the laundry sink. The space for it would come out of the adjacent laundry.
It would mean losing a door from the bedroom to the busy part of the house, but there is another door.
I only say this so a potential buyer can get their soaking tub if they must have it. 🙄
 
skyking said:
We are putting in 1 bathtub upstairs in a shared full bath.
It will be a 6' tub for us taller folks, and is the standard tub/shower.
The rest of the bathrooms are large roll in showers with no threshholds.
If somebody brings a child that needs dunked in a tub, we have one. Everybody else I know likes a nice shower.
The downstairs main bath could get one of those stupid tubs in it, with a little wall knocking out and move the laundry sink. The space for it would come out of the adjacent laundry.
It would mean losing a door from the bedroom to the busy part of the house, but there is another door.
I only say this so a potential buyer can get their soaking tub if they must have it. 🙄
Click to expand...
My place has 2 tub shower combos along with the master tub and walk through shower. I expect I'll be cutting a hole in one of the standard tubs to make it into a walk in tub for my MIL. A lot less work than gutting out the whole thing and putting in a wheelchair accessible shower.
 
Absolutely! When folks are faced with changing health and abilities, it very rarely comes with extra money to deal with it.
Not everyone can just open up the checkbook to bathfiltters et al.

For me, it does not cost much to make these roll in showers. It takes some extra sq ft and tile.
 
Are you putting in an elevator? The internet thinks I'm 95 years old due to ad blocking so I get a lot of residential elevator ads.
 
It has an open elevator shaft from the basement to the 2nd floor, with an 8" deep elevator pit in the basement floor.
I'll put in the required structure for a typical residential elevator on one side wall, but we will install a platform lift in the shaft. It is a fraction of a traditional elevator and lets the shaft function as a light feature through the house.
cf96a0dd-bb4b-43cd-873e-e68114d4e58c.jpg
 
The trim and paint work in that pic are abominable. Add the little pile of debris where they ripped out the base board and the whole thing screams hack job.
 
Who cares? that picture was for a reference to a platform lift, not a showcase of the work. Forest for the trees, man.
 
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