Forza 2

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R Nilla

Diamond Member
Jul 26, 2006
3,835
1
0
Originally posted by: purbeast0
The one thing that is really starting to piss me off is the AI. The AI cars will never EVER spin out or go off the track if they bump you or if you bump them. But every time I get bumped by them, it slams me off of the track. It's starting to get annoying in the races where 1 mistake can be the downfall of the race.

I don't know about that. I accidentally P.I.T. maneuvered the AI once :D
 
Feb 10, 2000
30,029
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Does anyone know what I need to do to get access to the racing Nissan Fairlady that was a bonus for pre-ordering? I got a code in an email from Microsoft, which allowed me to download it in the Xbox Marketplace, but I don't seem to have the car in the game. I have the ability to buy it, but it's very expensive and thus unappealing. Does the pre-order bonus just give you the right to buy the car, or should I have it in the game for free?
 

Cabages

Platinum Member
Jan 1, 2006
2,918
0
0
hmmm. I just tried the Lingenfelter :|

What a POS. Its completely undrivable. Do I have to suffer through the Corvette series with this, or do you have any suggestions on what to use?
 
Feb 10, 2000
30,029
67
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Originally posted by: Cabages
hmmm. I just tried the Lingenfelter :|

What a POS. Its completely undrivable. Do I have to suffer through the Corvette series with this, or do you have any suggestions on what to use?

The Guldstrand (which you win in one of the muscle-car series) is actually pretty good, but in stock form it's not fast enough to hang with the CPU-controlled Lingenfelter. It might be worth putting slicks on the Lingenfelter to see if that helps - otherwise it'll be necessary to upgrade the hell out of the Guldstrand.
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,006
5,892
126
Originally posted by: DonVito
Originally posted by: Cabages
hmmm. I just tried the Lingenfelter :|

What a POS. Its completely undrivable. Do I have to suffer through the Corvette series with this, or do you have any suggestions on what to use?

The Guldstrand (which you win in one of the muscle-car series) is actually pretty good, but in stock form it's not fast enough to hang with the CPU-controlled Lingenfelter. It might be worth putting slicks on the Lingenfelter to see if that helps - otherwise it'll be necessary to upgrade the hell out of the Guldstrand.

Hell I upgraded the Lingenfelter as far as you possibly can and it still was hard as hell to win that series. It was a U-999 rating when I was racing with it.

Cabages all I can say is good luck. That last race in that series literally took me over an hour to win. When I was on the very last turn and in first place after an hour, my girlfriend walked in and sat next to me and started messing with me. I had to pause the game and was like "look just give me a minute, i've been trying to do this for like an hour" and she got kind of mad.

Needless to say, it was worth it because I won heh.
 
Feb 10, 2000
30,029
67
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Originally posted by: purbeast0

Hell I upgraded the Lingenfelter as far as you possibly can and it still was hard as hell to win that series. It was a U-999 rating when I was racing with it.

Cabages all I can say is good luck. That last race in that series literally took me over an hour to win. When I was on the very last turn and in first place after an hour, my girlfriend walked in and sat next to me and started messing with me. I had to pause the game and was like "look just give me a minute, i've been trying to do this for like an hour" and she got kind of mad.

Needless to say, it was worth it because I won heh.

Were you using driver assists? I assume so, since that thing is SO uncontrollable without them, even in "stock" form. I bought the Forza rear spoiler for it, which helped a lot, but it was still very tricky to drive fast. This is one series where I might lower the AI to Easy difficulty just to get through it.
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,006
5,892
126
Originally posted by: DonVito
Originally posted by: purbeast0

Hell I upgraded the Lingenfelter as far as you possibly can and it still was hard as hell to win that series. It was a U-999 rating when I was racing with it.

Cabages all I can say is good luck. That last race in that series literally took me over an hour to win. When I was on the very last turn and in first place after an hour, my girlfriend walked in and sat next to me and started messing with me. I had to pause the game and was like "look just give me a minute, i've been trying to do this for like an hour" and she got kind of mad.

Needless to say, it was worth it because I won heh.

Were you using driver assists? I assume so, since that thing is SO uncontrollable without them, even in "stock" form. I bought the Forza rear spoiler for it, which helped a lot, but it was still very tricky to drive fast. This is one series where I might lower the AI to Easy difficulty just to get through it.

I have it set on the 2nd difficulty (out of the 4) that I set when I started my career. I havent' changed it on anything. So whatever assists come on or off with that difficulty, that's what I am using.

And on that series, I rarely saw myself just flooring it. I was pumping the gas a lot just so I wouldn't spin out. The car controls like a boat.
 

Jeff7181

Lifer
Aug 21, 2002
18,368
11
81
You can't drive a 900 HP RWD car the same way you drive a 300 HP AWD car. The Lingenfelter IS controllable... just watch the replays on the leader boards if you don't believe me. A car with that kind of power is going to get loose every now and then... it's up to you, the driver, to learn the track and know where you have to baby it and where you can open it up.
 
Feb 10, 2000
30,029
67
91
Originally posted by: Jeff7181
You can't drive a 900 HP RWD car the same way you drive a 300 HP AWD car. The Lingenfelter IS controllable... just watch the replays on the leader boards if you don't believe me. A car with that kind of power is going to get loose every now and then... it's up to you, the driver, to learn the track and know where you have to baby it and where you can open it up.

Have you driven the Lingenfelter without driver assists on? It's not a matter of it getting loose every now and then, it's a matter of it never having any traction, whatsoever, at any time. Even 50% throttle just spins the tires. I accept that I am not leader-board material, but I'm not bad at the game and that thing is just ridiculous to drive. I imagine in real life it is tricky but easily manageable because you have real feedback - a gamepad doesn't convey road feel nearly the same way.
 

Jeff7181

Lifer
Aug 21, 2002
18,368
11
81
Originally posted by: DonVito
Originally posted by: Jeff7181
You can't drive a 900 HP RWD car the same way you drive a 300 HP AWD car. The Lingenfelter IS controllable... just watch the replays on the leader boards if you don't believe me. A car with that kind of power is going to get loose every now and then... it's up to you, the driver, to learn the track and know where you have to baby it and where you can open it up.

Have you driven the Lingenfelter without driver assists on? It's not a matter of it getting loose every now and then, it's a matter of it never having any traction, whatsoever, at any time. Even 50% throttle just spins the tires. I accept that I am not leader-board material, but I'm not bad at the game and that thing is just ridiculous to drive. I imagine in real life it is tricky but easily manageable because you have real feedback - a gamepad doesn't convey road feel nearly the same way.

I drive with the Braking Only best line, automatic transmission and Medium AI difficulty. It's not easy, but it's not impossible by any stretch of the imagination.

I'm not "leader-board material" either, but I don't have a problem controlling the car... take a look...

http://img353.imageshack.us/img353/8652/img1680pq7.jpg
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,006
5,892
126
Originally posted by: Jeff7181
Originally posted by: DonVito
Originally posted by: Jeff7181
You can't drive a 900 HP RWD car the same way you drive a 300 HP AWD car. The Lingenfelter IS controllable... just watch the replays on the leader boards if you don't believe me. A car with that kind of power is going to get loose every now and then... it's up to you, the driver, to learn the track and know where you have to baby it and where you can open it up.

Have you driven the Lingenfelter without driver assists on? It's not a matter of it getting loose every now and then, it's a matter of it never having any traction, whatsoever, at any time. Even 50% throttle just spins the tires. I accept that I am not leader-board material, but I'm not bad at the game and that thing is just ridiculous to drive. I imagine in real life it is tricky but easily manageable because you have real feedback - a gamepad doesn't convey road feel nearly the same way.

I drive with the Braking Only best line, automatic transmission and Medium AI difficulty. It's not easy, but it's not impossible by any stretch of the imagination.

I'm not "leader-board material" either, but I don't have a problem controlling the car... take a look...

http://img353.imageshack.us/img353/8652/img1680pq7.jpg

Yah my settings are the same as yours. I also have gotten gold on that cup.

However the corvette still controls like crap, and it was still the hardet cup I've played thus far heh :)
 

Jeff7181

Lifer
Aug 21, 2002
18,368
11
81
Originally posted by: DonVito
Originally posted by: Jeff7181

I drive with the Braking Only best line, automatic transmission and Medium AI difficulty. It's not easy, but it's not impossible by any stretch of the imagination.

I'm not "leader-board material" either, but I don't have a problem controlling the car... take a look...

http://img353.imageshack.us/img353/8652/img1680pq7.jpg

Are you using traction control or stability control?

Nope... no ABS either. I'd make a video of the replay from that race with the telemetry data up, but I don't think you'd be able to see anything useful once I get it on google video or youtube because of the resizing they do.

*EDIT* I did it anyway... I'll post a link as soon as it's approved.
 

Jeff7181

Lifer
Aug 21, 2002
18,368
11
81
Here's the video... I decided to run it at Laguna Seca since people seem to think that's a difficult track because of the elevation changes or something... /shrug
 
Feb 10, 2000
30,029
67
91
Originally posted by: Jeff7181
Originally posted by: DonVito
Originally posted by: Jeff7181

I drive with the Braking Only best line, automatic transmission and Medium AI difficulty. It's not easy, but it's not impossible by any stretch of the imagination.

I'm not "leader-board material" either, but I don't have a problem controlling the car... take a look...

http://img353.imageshack.us/img353/8652/img1680pq7.jpg

Are you using traction control or stability control?

Nope... no ABS either. I'd make a video of the replay from that race with the telemetry data up, but I don't think you'd be able to see anything useful once I get it on google video or youtube because of the resizing they do.

*EDIT* I did it anyway... I'll post a link as soon as it's approved.

Wow - very impressive! I look forward to checking out the video.
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,006
5,892
126
Originally posted by: Jeff7181
Here's the video... I decided to run it at Laguna Seca since people seem to think that's a difficult track because of the elevation changes or something... /shrug

Holy crap dude, nice run. You sure can drive very smoothly.

Do you play with the wheel/pedal setup? I'm wondering because you seem to be able to use the analog gas/brake very well. I find it hard to partially brake and accelerate with the controller, but you seem to do it very VERY smoothly.
 

Jeff7181

Lifer
Aug 21, 2002
18,368
11
81
Originally posted by: purbeast0
Originally posted by: Jeff7181
Here's the video... I decided to run it at Laguna Seca since people seem to think that's a difficult track because of the elevation changes or something... /shrug

Holy crap dude, nice run. You sure can drive very smoothly.

Do you play with the wheel/pedal setup? I'm wondering because you seem to be able to use the analog gas/brake very well. I find it hard to partially brake and accelerate with the controller, but you seem to do it very VERY smoothly.

No wheel and pedal. I use the regular Microsoft wireless controller. I have a little trick that I feel allows more precise control of the gas/brake... rather than using my fingertips on the triggers, I kinda wrap my finger around the trigger so it lands between my first and second knuckle on my fingers... then I sort of squeeze the controller in my hand to work the triggers.

I also eliminated almost all of the dead zone from each axis. You can't set them to zero, especially the joysticks because they're not perfectly centered when they're untouched. With my controller, I have the steering axis deadzone at 11% on the minimum and 98% on the maximum. The goal being to reduce any wasted movement on the lower end, and widen the total range on the upper end so you can make more precise movements.
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,006
5,892
126
Originally posted by: Jeff7181
Originally posted by: purbeast0
Originally posted by: Jeff7181
Here's the video... I decided to run it at Laguna Seca since people seem to think that's a difficult track because of the elevation changes or something... /shrug

Holy crap dude, nice run. You sure can drive very smoothly.

Do you play with the wheel/pedal setup? I'm wondering because you seem to be able to use the analog gas/brake very well. I find it hard to partially brake and accelerate with the controller, but you seem to do it very VERY smoothly.

No wheel and pedal. I use the regular Microsoft wireless controller. I have a little trick that I feel allows more precise control of the gas/brake... rather than using my fingertips on the triggers, I kinda wrap my finger around the trigger so it lands between my first and second knuckle on my fingers... then I sort of squeeze the controller in my hand to work the triggers.

I also eliminated almost all of the dead zone from each axis. You can't set them to zero, especially the joysticks because they're not perfectly centered when they're untouched. With my controller, I have the steering axis deadzone at 11% on the minimum and 98% on the maximum. The goal being to reduce any wasted movement on the lower end, and widen the total range on the upper end so you can make more precise movements.

well more freakin power to you dude, that is seriously the best controlled person I've seen play that game. It is like watching the CPU play from behind their car. And you aren't even playin with the damn brake line lol.

And I haven't gone into ANY customization in this game because I just don't know much about cars. I also am not sure what you mean about the steering axis and stuff. But wow man, good stuff you are really good.
 

Jeff7181

Lifer
Aug 21, 2002
18,368
11
81
Actually I did have the Braking Only best line on during the race... that was the replay, which doesn't show the best line.

The dead zones for each axis can be set up by going to Options from the main menu, then to Controller Options, then hit X to bring up advanced options.

*EDIT* Tuning tip for ya... if you're in a car that feels twitchy, reduce the front tire pressure by a couple PSI. Or if it feels slugging, like it turns a fraction of a second after you move the stick, increase the front tire pressure by a couple PSI. That usually helps a lot.
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,006
5,892
126
Originally posted by: Jeff7181
Actually I did have the Braking Only best line on during the race... that was the replay, which doesn't show the best line.

The dead zones for each axis can be set up by going to Options from the main menu, then to Controller Options, then hit X to bring up advanced options.

*EDIT* Tuning tip for ya... if you're in a car that feels twitchy, reduce the front tire pressure by a couple PSI. Or if it feels slugging, like it turns a fraction of a second after you move the stick, increase the front tire pressure by a couple PSI. That usually helps a lot.

Ah okay thanks for the tips man :)

Also how do you know when to brake partially and when to brake all the way? For me I pretty much always pull the L trigger all the way whenevr I see red in the brake line.
 

Jeff7181

Lifer
Aug 21, 2002
18,368
11
81
Originally posted by: purbeast0
Originally posted by: Jeff7181
Actually I did have the Braking Only best line on during the race... that was the replay, which doesn't show the best line.

The dead zones for each axis can be set up by going to Options from the main menu, then to Controller Options, then hit X to bring up advanced options.

*EDIT* Tuning tip for ya... if you're in a car that feels twitchy, reduce the front tire pressure by a couple PSI. Or if it feels slugging, like it turns a fraction of a second after you move the stick, increase the front tire pressure by a couple PSI. That usually helps a lot.

Ah okay thanks for the tips man :)

Also how do you know when to brake partially and when to brake all the way? For me I pretty much always pull the L trigger all the way whenevr I see red in the brake line.

Never brake all the way... you'll lock up the wheels 99% of the time when you do that. Different cars can handle different conditions... so you really have to try it out in whatever car you're driving. With a new car I brake early and heavy because some cars like the GT40 just don't want to stop with stock brakes. Light cars are obviously easier to slow down, so you can brake harder and later when you're running a hot lap. If you're just trying to run clean but fast, try to keep the car on the best line right behind where it's changing from yellow to red as you're slowing down. If you're trying to learn a track and a car, never go through a turn where the best line is red... always do it "in the yellow" and you'll slide a lot less.
 

Queasy

Moderator<br>Console Gaming
Aug 24, 2001
31,796
2
0
Originally posted by: Jeff7181
Originally posted by: purbeast0
Originally posted by: Jeff7181
Actually I did have the Braking Only best line on during the race... that was the replay, which doesn't show the best line.

The dead zones for each axis can be set up by going to Options from the main menu, then to Controller Options, then hit X to bring up advanced options.

*EDIT* Tuning tip for ya... if you're in a car that feels twitchy, reduce the front tire pressure by a couple PSI. Or if it feels slugging, like it turns a fraction of a second after you move the stick, increase the front tire pressure by a couple PSI. That usually helps a lot.

Ah okay thanks for the tips man :)

Also how do you know when to brake partially and when to brake all the way? For me I pretty much always pull the L trigger all the way whenevr I see red in the brake line.

Never brake all the way... you'll lock up the wheels 99% of the time when you do that. Different cars can handle different conditions... so you really have to try it out in whatever car you're driving. With a new car I brake early and heavy because some cars like the GT40 just don't want to stop with stock brakes. Light cars are obviously easier to slow down, so you can brake harder and later when you're running a hot lap. If you're just trying to run clean, try to keep the car on the best line right behind where it's changing from yellow to red as you're slowing down.

I think reducing the brake tension is also a good way to keep your brakes from locking up. Depending on the car, I'll reduce it to 50-90%.

How much tuning did you do on the Lingenfelter btw? There was almost no swerving on your tail so you made me think you had a lot of downforce and other tweaks to go along with your good driving.
 

Jeff7181

Lifer
Aug 21, 2002
18,368
11
81
Originally posted by: Queasy
Originally posted by: Jeff7181
Originally posted by: purbeast0
Originally posted by: Jeff7181
Actually I did have the Braking Only best line on during the race... that was the replay, which doesn't show the best line.

The dead zones for each axis can be set up by going to Options from the main menu, then to Controller Options, then hit X to bring up advanced options.

*EDIT* Tuning tip for ya... if you're in a car that feels twitchy, reduce the front tire pressure by a couple PSI. Or if it feels slugging, like it turns a fraction of a second after you move the stick, increase the front tire pressure by a couple PSI. That usually helps a lot.

Ah okay thanks for the tips man :)

Also how do you know when to brake partially and when to brake all the way? For me I pretty much always pull the L trigger all the way whenevr I see red in the brake line.

Never brake all the way... you'll lock up the wheels 99% of the time when you do that. Different cars can handle different conditions... so you really have to try it out in whatever car you're driving. With a new car I brake early and heavy because some cars like the GT40 just don't want to stop with stock brakes. Light cars are obviously easier to slow down, so you can brake harder and later when you're running a hot lap. If you're just trying to run clean, try to keep the car on the best line right behind where it's changing from yellow to red as you're slowing down.

I think reducing the brake tension is also a good way to keep your brakes from locking up. Depending on the car, I'll reduce it to 50-90%.

How much tuning did you do on the Lingenfelter btw? There was almost no swerving on your tail so you made me think you had a lot of downforce and other tweaks to go along with your good driving.

Didn't make any tuning changes... just bought parts. The Lingenfelter is a Corvette... Corvettes handle very well. It's the 900 HP that makes the Lingenfelter a handful. If you learn to control the power, you can control the car.

*EDIT* Reducing the maximum braking force can prevent you from locking up the wheels... but it feels like cheating to me for some reason so I don't change it. I just learn to use the brakes differently in different cars.