Car Audio: Help me build a decent system for $1000

Page 4 - Seeking answers? Join the AnandTech community: where nearly half-a-million members share solutions and discuss the latest tech.

Spac3d

Banned
Jul 3, 2001
6,651
1
0
Originally posted by: glen
Originally posted by: Spac3d
sygyzy, listen to what Shockwave has to say. In this thread, I think he is the only one who really listened to you and gave good recomendations.

That Glen guy is giving you the good advise and backing it up with about as much pysics as is reasonable for internet forums.
Honestly, I cannot make sense of what you are saying. There are comparisons that do not make sense ... but if you can offer an explanation by another website/member, I am willing to listen.

 

sygyzy

Lifer
Oct 21, 2000
14,001
4
76
Originally posted by: mztykal
Wow, I know I'm getting to this post late. But here goes anyway...

Front Fill:
- Rainbow Audio Soundline 6.5" components ( http://www.ampmanaudio.com/products/details.asp?id=962 )

Rear Fill:
- Rainbow Audion Soundline 6.5" coaxials ( http://www.ampmanaudio.com/products/details.asp?id=958 )

Amps:
- Speakers - MTX Thunder 4244 ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3019579283&category=39742 )
- Sub - MTX Thunder 4250D ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3019330097&category=18797 )

Sub:
- Dayton Titanic MKII ( http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=295-412&DID=7 )

Wiring:
- All wiring - ( http://www.knukonceptz.com )

I'd include more info, but I got class tomorrow and it's late. I'll try to edit this later on though. Total price for everything should be under $850.00 shipped to you. Add on another 50 bucks to get a box made for the sub and you should be good. Considering you do the install yourself. Otherwise the price may go up a bit depending on what shop you take it to. But you should be happy with the quality overall of all the components I chose. :D

I'll be running Rainbow Audio Soundline comps and Soundline coaxs in my car. Also I'd love to be running a Dayton MKII. I've heard it outperform a lot of high-end JL, Kicker, Infinity, and Rockford subs. Just make sure the enclosure is built correctly.

Enjoy!



Why did you choose that line of Rainbow? I looked and Rainbow has like 6 (?) different type of Components and probably just as many coaxials. What's a good lline I should get? The one you recommended?
 

mztykal

Diamond Member
Apr 21, 2000
6,713
48
91
The reason I chose those, is by reading your post, and the fact that you want to spend a grand. I figured you're not too into car audio to want mid to high end stuff.

Rainbow's lower end is GREAT with the least amount of power and it'll blow you away. Way better than anything you can find at Best Buy or Circuit City. Also you should give the sub a chance. It's a great sub. :)

The amps are reliable and don't run hot, I'm running a couple of those series right now. And I'm running all KnuKonceptz wiring< because the quality is there and it isn't OMG expensive. LOL!

Check out the links I put and if you do decide to go with the stuff I chose, update us and LMK how you like em. :D
 

Viperoni

Lifer
Jan 4, 2000
11,084
1
71
Originally posted by: mztykal
Wow, I know I'm getting to this post late. But here goes anyway...

Front Fill:
- Rainbow Audio Soundline 6.5" components ( http://www.ampmanaudio.com/products/details.asp?id=962 )

Rear Fill:
- Rainbow Audion Soundline 6.5" coaxials ( http://www.ampmanaudio.com/products/details.asp?id=958 )

Amps:
- Speakers - MTX Thunder 4244 ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3019579283&category=39742 )
- Sub - MTX Thunder 4250D ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3019330097&category=18797 )

Sub:
- Dayton Titanic MKII ( http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=295-412&DID=7 )

Wiring:
- All wiring - ( http://www.knukonceptz.com )

I'd include more info, but I got class tomorrow and it's late. I'll try to edit this later on though. Total price for everything should be under $850.00 shipped to you. Add on another 50 bucks to get a box made for the sub and you should be good. Considering you do the install yourself. Otherwise the price may go up a bit depending on what shop you take it to. But you should be happy with the quality overall of all the components I chose. :D

I'll be running Rainbow Audio Soundline comps and Soundline coaxs in my car. Also I'd love to be running a Dayton MKII. I've heard it outperform a lot of high-end JL, Kicker, Infinity, and Rockford subs. Just make sure the enclosure is built correctly.

Enjoy!

You'll only be giving the MK2 125watts RMS :(

You'd be a lot better off with something like this Ultimate 600x1 @ 4ohms bridged amp, made by Zed Audio in the USA.

 

brxndxn

Diamond Member
Apr 3, 2001
8,475
0
76
I didn't feel like reading all that crap... but I have a 760Watt Pioneer 2-channel amp that I would be willing to sell for CHEAP (like less than $100)..

It's a lot more power than you'd get if you bought it new. It works great and it has no scratches on it. <-- I mean that you could get for the price.

GM-X962 is the model number

BTW, it's only 0.04% THD or so.. so it's basically one of the highest sound qualities you can get from a 500watt+ amp.
 

sygyzy

Lifer
Oct 21, 2000
14,001
4
76
Originally posted by: mztykal
The reason I chose those, is by reading your post, and the fact that you want to spend a grand. I figured you're not too into car audio to want mid to high end stuff.

Rainbow's lower end is GREAT with the least amount of power and it'll blow you away. Way better than anything you can find at Best Buy or Circuit City. Also you should give the sub a chance. It's a great sub. :)

The amps are reliable and don't run hot, I'm running a couple of those series right now. And I'm running all KnuKonceptz wiring< because the quality is there and it isn't OMG expensive. LOL!

Check out the links I put and if you do decide to go with the stuff I chose, update us and LMK how you like em. :D


Rainbow has like 6 different lines for each product. i was wondering which is/are suited to me? They have Dream, Reference, Professional, Sound, etc.
 

Viperoni

Lifer
Jan 4, 2000
11,084
1
71
Glen does have a very true point about power... however there's no way I'd take a Tempest with 10watts over a Shiva with 100.

What it boils down to is simple acoustic-properties and a bit of speaker properties. As speakers are given more power, they experience power compression (amoung other things0, which basically means that the speaker doesn't use up all the power to make sound: some is wasted as heat. As you apply more and more power, you get more and more heat (and more power compression).


Back to sound: with sound, a doubling of power (10 to 20watts for example) nets you a 3db gain (not counting power compression).

However going from 10 to 100watts should net you a ~10.5db increase. Depending on the speaker, it may net you only 3db... such as in the case of a tweeter.
Unless you listen to music EXTREMELY loudly, chances are you'll never need more than 40watts for your speakers.

Heck, I hit 120db with my 15inch Dayton DVC (see sig) RUNNING OFF MY DECK... maybe 10watts RMS.
Off my MTX 2150x amp (~450watts RMS), I'm doing ~140db.

Doesn't this partly contradict what I just said above, that the MK2 shoudl be given more power? Yes, it partly does, but with the bigger amp he'll gain at least 3-4db, which could make the difference between "meh" bass and "this is pretty loud" :)
That, and dynamic-range never hurts (too much) :Q :p
 

Shockwave

Banned
Sep 16, 2000
9,059
0
0
Viperoni...The dynamic range point was something I was going to bring up later. Its always ncie to have an amp that can handle the dynamics of music.
 

hellsbells

Junior Member
Apr 24, 2003
1
0
0
I'm getting anxious on this matter.

Good points Viperoni...I'll add to the driver discussion,

Lets compare a Tempest and a Shiva.
Raw driver Eff comparison
Watts--Tempest--Shiva
1w--89.1--87.2
2w--92.1--90.2
4w--95.1--93.2
8w--98.1--95.2
16w--101.1--98.2
32w--104.1--101.2
64w--107.1--104.2
128w--110.1--107.2

---------------------------------------
Box Q comparison (no fill)
Tempest @ Q .707 ~4 cuft (Tempest app paper says 122 liters)
Shiva @ Q .707 ~2 cuft (Shiva app paper says 54 liters)
---------------------------------------

Both drivers in their respective Q=.707 boxes. My box program says a Tempest will need about 80w to keep up with a Shiva at 100w With the Shiva doing about 110dB @100w and the Tempest doing about 100dB @ 10w. So lets look at another chart.

Shiva ~110dB @100w
Tempest:
~101dB @10w
~104dB @20w
~107dB @40w
~110dB @80w
(every 3db increase requires a doubling of power)
Yes the Tempest does have the edge due to its ~double Sd and Vd (xmax being about the same). but the Shiva needs only half the box.
Draw your own conclusion.
----------------------------------------

What do I do?
Buy 2 Shivas or hell's bells :D 1 Shiva even (in a Celica, right?) and take the $50-100 and put it into an amp or a HU. The Shiva doesnt know or care the Tempest is more efficient. You still have to buy a suitable amp and that amp will work just as good with a Shiva as it will with a Tempest. A 300w amp still costs the same whether you hook it to a Shiva or a Tempest. So he loses a few db, but its a SQ setup right? I'd worry more about that.





 

sygyzy

Lifer
Oct 21, 2000
14,001
4
76
It was never a debate between Shire and Tempest. I was set on the 12" Shiva. I think the debate was between sub size and how much you need or don't need to feed it.

Anyway, another thought. I was always set on getting a 10" (probably JL10W3?) Anyway, I doubt I'd ever push a 10 to anywhere near it's maximum capabilities. Remember, this is a Celica and I don't care about "hear me down the street" bass. With that said, why am I getting a 12? Granted, the 12 is actually CHEAPER than the 10" JL, but are there any other reasons besides it just being "bigger"?
 

GermyBoy

Banned
Jun 5, 2001
3,524
0
0
Seriously, you don't need a decent system for $1000. You don't need more than factory install. Save your $1000. You'll think back in 50 years when you can still hear, and thank me.
 

Viperoni

Lifer
Jan 4, 2000
11,084
1
71
Originally posted by: sygyzy
It was never a debate between Shire and Tempest. I was set on the 12" Shiva. I think the debate was between sub size and how much you need or don't need to feed it.

Anyway, another thought. I was always set on getting a 10" (probably JL10W3?) Anyway, I doubt I'd ever push a 10 to anywhere near it's maximum capabilities. Remember, this is a Celica and I don't care about "hear me down the street" bass. With that said, why am I getting a 12? Granted, the 12 is actually CHEAPER than the 10" JL, but are there any other reasons besides it just being "bigger"?


The Shiva will go deeper and sound better than the JL. It will handle transients (dynamics, peaks, loudness, etc) better, and overall IMO is a better sub.

If you want a 10inch sub that truly sounds good and goes into obscenely small boxes (0.5cf sealed is plenty), there's the 10inch Peerless XLS car sub... it's 2ohms, cast frame, and beautifully made in Denmark :)
Goes for $145 though :Q
I put a pair of the 12's in a friends 95 Sunfire off of ~300watts in a 2cf vented box tuned to 38hz and it was great, very clean, deep and accurate bass hitting ~133db or so.
I also heard of one guy that had one 10" XLS in a hatchback, in an SPL-only bandpass box off of ~500watts that hit 153db, so they're plenty capable drivers.

But the Shiva's a great choice, plus if you want to crank it, it'll definetely be right there waiting for the power :D
 

Shockwave

Banned
Sep 16, 2000
9,059
0
0
Well, everyone seems to be so focused on this power issue, let me throw out 2 thoughts...

1) Lets compare multiple subs. A tempest is a fairly efficient beast. Model these against our Shiva. THEn double power to the Shiva and see what happens... (Everything assumes 1 W/ 1 M)

JL 12W6 - 86.9 db
Adire Brahma 15" - 87.1
PG Titanium 15 - 90
PG Tantrum 15 - 91
IDQ 15 - 94.2

Now, model those against a Shiva with 1 watt. Then double the Shiva power to 2 watts. Now, another model. Run all drivers at 1/2 RMS rating. And our last model, run all drivers at RMS rating. Now color cordinate everything so we can overlay it ALL onto 1 graph. As power scales all drivers should scale. But, compare our 1/2 watt readings to our 1/2 RMS and full RMS readings. Notice a trend? The more power you have the louder you are.

2) If Glens theory is correct, then doesnt it stand to argue that you could take any of the monster SPL vehicles, dump the 3000+ watts they have, give them 100 per sub and add 2 extra subs and be louder? So, why arent all these SPl competitors using much smaller amps and just a few more speakers.

As for the Tempest white paper... Musically satisfying? Come on...Thats the same as saying "You may like it, I dont"
 

Viperoni

Lifer
Jan 4, 2000
11,084
1
71
Because they can't fit that many speakers, and a smaller enclosure is easier to compress.
You know the Team Gates truck that had 64x PPI 10"'s in it... it had a largish interior trying to fit all those drivers.
Then look at a CRX.... no way you could get 64 10's to fit in that car :)

 

Shockwave

Banned
Sep 16, 2000
9,059
0
0
Originally posted by: Viperoni
Because they can't fit that many speakers, and a smaller enclosure is easier to compress.
You know the Team Gates truck that had 64x PPI 10"'s in it... it had a largish interior trying to fit all those drivers.
Then look at a CRX.... no way you could get 64 10's to fit in that car :)

Well, I know the WHY, it was a food for thought deal.

I'm just saying I think a few people here are seriously underestimating the iportance of a good sized amp. And I think saying the difference between 10 and 100 watts isnt that much is a horrid mistake.

Ah well. Perhaps when one gets "worn out ears" (old?) its hard to hear subtle differences... :D
 

nguyendot1

Senior member
Mar 31, 2003
325
0
0
Originally posted by: Shockwave
Originally posted by: Muadib
I'm at least 5 years out of the car audio upgrade craze, but I have a few questions.

1)Why should he replace his HU? New speakers & amps will improve his system 10 fold. I'm pretty sure he said his current unit has rca outputs, so wouldn't his 1k be better spent just upgrading the speakers & amps and not trying to do all 3 with the same money?

2)Someone mentioned crossovers, I wouldn't include them with only 1k to spend, unless they have really come down in price. Wouldn't filters be the better way to go?

3)How are Rockford Fosgate amps these days? Back in the mid to late 90's,
they were outstanding in quality, sound and price.

1) Sony isnt exactly known as the hot stuff on the audio scene. But, his HU will do fine for now. But the Eclipse would give far more control. For only 300-ish he gets time alignment. Name one HU with time alignment besides that costs less then 800 right now...i cant think of 1 right off. I'm sure someone will prove me wrong though :D

2) Audiocontrol's run around 150 - 200 online. It also allows alot more control then just passives. But with what he's doing, the amps internals would be fine IMO

3) As good as ever, if still ugly as all Hell. Maybe a bit pricier then they used to be though

Pioneer DEH-P9300 can be had new on Ebay for $275-$300..with time alignment, sub management, 13 band eq..etc

Alpine CDA-7893 can be had for about $275 on Etronics with time alignment as well.

 

Zebo

Elite Member
Jul 29, 2001
39,398
19
81
This thread Kicks ass: I just want to post an email I got from a buddy who makes amplifiers for all the big boys ...Prices are UNREAL.

DO NOT EMAIL ME ABOUT THESE AMPS...I AM NOT SELLING THEM.


CALL HIM W/ QUESTIONS....HE'S NOT GOOD AT EMAILING RIGHT BACK


i just told steve i'd post his stuff again.


contact information below:



ZED AUDIO CORPORATION
759 Cochran Street, Units A & B, Simi Valley, CA 93065
Telephone (805) 526-5315 Fax (805) 526-8572 e-mail zedaudio@aol.com

COMPANY MODEL PWR/CH 4ohm PWR/CH 2ohm QTY PRICE

LANZAR SL50.4 50w x 4 90w x 4 2 $110 NEW

MTX 2300 150w x 2 250w x 2 1 $180 DEMO
THIS MTX IS A REALLY UNDER RATED AMP. ON CHECKING IT?S POWER RATING HERE IS WHAT I MEASURED AT 13.2v BATTERY: 275w x 2 AT 4 OHM AND 510w x 2 AT 2 OHM! ??.A BEAST.

THESE BOSS AMPLIFIER WERE MADE IN THE USA AND ALL BRAND NEW VERY SIMILAR DESIGN TO THE USACOUSTICS AND PLANET AUDIO AMPLIFIERS
BOSS C455 85w x 2 85w x 2 1 $42

BOSS C555 110w x 2 110w x 2 2 $49

BOSS C705 150w x 2 170w x 2 2 $52

BOSS C655 85w x 4 85w x 4 6 $62 SILVER

BOSS C805 150w x 4 210w x 4 2 $77

BOSS C1055 175w x 4 175w x 4 6 $82 SILVER

BOSS C1055 175w x 4 175w x 4 10 $82 WHITE

BOSS C1055 175w x 4 175w x 4 6 $82 VIOLET

BOSS C755 210w x 4 210w x 4 2 $72 WHITE


BOSS H265 60w x 2 60w x 2 1 $45

BOSS H565 110w x 2 110w x 2 1 $55

BOSS H765 150w x 2 150w x 2 1 $59

BOSS H765 150w x 2 150w x 2 1 $40 **

BOSS H865 210w x 2 210w x 2 1 $45 **

BOSS H665 85w x 4 95w x 4 83 $59

BOSS H665 85w x 4 95w x 4 3 $45 **

BOSS H965 150w x 4 250w x 4 25 $67

BOSS REV1200 180w x 4 255w x 4 2 $71

** THESE AMPS ARE NEW BUT DO NOT HAVE THEIR ORIGINAL GIFT BOXES

ALL THESE BOSS AMPLIFIERS ARE NEW.

BOSS CLR40 100w x 2 100w x 2 2 $35

BOSS CLR50 125w x 2 125w x 2 3 $39

BOSS CLR50 125w x 2 125w x 2 3 $29 **

BOSS CLR70 150w x 2 150w x 2 2 $45

BOSS CLR60 75w x 4 75w x 4 1 $45

BOSS CLR90 75w x 4 100w x 4 2 $75 5ch AMP
+150w x 1 +250w x 1

** THIS AMP IS NEW BUT DOES NOT HAVE IT?S ORIGINAL GIFT BOX

ON ALL THE BOSS AMPS (CHAOS, HAVOC AND CLR SERIES) THE RATINGS SHOWN ABOVE IS WHAT IS PRINTED IN THE MANUALS. SINCE I DESIGNED THESE AMPS I KNOW THAT THE ACTUAL CONTINUOUS POWER RATINGS ARE APPROXIMATELY 50% OF THE ABOVE FIGURES.

PLANET
AUDIO P1502 150w x 2 250w x 2 3 $59 **


THESE PLANET AUDIO AMPS ARE ALL NEW AND THE RATINGS ARE ALL REAL CONTINUOUS POWER. THEY ARE VERY HIGH QUALITY AMPLIFIERS AT A GREAT PRICE.
PLANET
AUDIO P275 75w x 2 150w x 2 1 $55

PLANET
AUDIO P2100 100w x 2 175w x 2 2 $65

PLANET
AUDIO P2150 150w x 2 250w x 2 2 $74

PLANET
AUDIO P450 50w x 4 75w x 4 10 $68

LOOKING FOR A REAL HIGH CURRENT AMPLIFIER, THEN LOOK AT THESE AMPS WE MADE FOR CRUNCH AUDIO. THESE AMPS DELIVER 200 watts/ch INTO A 0.5 OHM LOAD (BRIDGABLE INTO A 1 OHM LOAD) AT 12v BATTERY. THESE AMPS DO NOT HAVE ANY CROSSOVERS BUT ARE BUILT LIKE BRICKS. THEY HAVE MASSIVE BLACK ANODIZED HEATSINKS.

CRUNCH CR50HC 25w x 2 50w x 2 30 $99



USACOUSTICS
THSE AMPS HAVE BEEN REFURBISHED BY ZED AUDIO. WE ARE THE ORIGINAL MANUFACTURERS OF THESE AMPLIFIERS.
THE ?USA? SERIES ARE THE OLDER SERIES AND HAVE LOW PROFILE HEATSINKS, IDEAL FOR FITTING UNDER SEATS. THEY COME IN GREY OR CHROME AS SHOWN
THE ?USX? SERIES HAS A MUCH LARGER BLUE PAINTED HEATSINBK AND THERE ARE 2 TYPES OF AMPS. THE USX2050,2080,2100,2150,4065,4085 ARE ALL MOSFET AMPLIFIERS.
THE USX600F,800F AND 1000F ARE NO COMPROMISE HIGH END AMPS VERY SIMILAR TO THOSE WE BUILT FOR HIFONICS, RODEK, AUTOTEK ETC. THEY ALL HAVE FULLY REGULATED POWER SUPPLIES AND USE EXOTIC CIRCUITRY FOR THE AUDIO AMPLIFIERS INCLUDING THE USE OF THE SUPER HIGH POWER TOSHIBA OUTPUT TRANSISTORS.
PLEASE NOTE THAT NEARLY ALL ARE IN THEIR ORIGINAL BOXES, BUT THE BOXES ARE NOT IN PRISTINE CONDITION. SOME DO NOT HAVE THE ORIGINAL MANUALS AND SO WE SUPPLY COPIES.

COMPANY MODEL PWR/CH 4ohm PWR/CH 2ohm QTY PRICE

USA 2075 75w x 2 100w x 2 1 $45 G

USA 2100 100w x 2 150w x 2 2 $55 G

USA 2150 150w x 2 250w x 2 2 $70 G

USA 2200 200w x 2 300w x 2 17 $99 G

USA 2200 200w x 2 300w x 2 12 $99 C

USA 2300 300w x 2 450w x 2 17 $139 G

USA 4050 50w x 4 75w x 4 8 $60 G

USA 4060 60w x 4 80w x 4 4 $63 G

USA 6300 50w x 4 75w x 4 4 $129 G 5ch AMP
+150w x 1 +250w x 1
G = GREY HEATSINK
C = CHROME HEATSINK
THE FOLLOWING SECTION ? THE AMPLIFIERS ARE IN GIFT BOXES



USX 2050 50w x 2 75w x 2 9 $45

USX 2080 80w x 2 120w x 2 24 $55

USX 2100 100w x 2 150w x 2 16 $69

USX 2150 150w x 2 250w x 2 63 $89

USX 4065 65w x 4 90w x 4 40 $80

USX 600F 200w x 2 300w x 2 35 $130

USX 800F 300w x 2 400w x 2 40 $158

USX 1000F 400w x 2 500w x 2 19 $195

USX 1000F 400w x 2 500w x 2 0 $165 **

USX SX466 4 in 5 out ELECTR CROSSOVER 12 $39

USX SX466 4 in 5 out ELECTR CROSSOVER 1 $30 **

** THESE AMPS ARE NEW BUT DO NOT HAVE THEIR ORIGINAL GIFT BOXES
THE USX600F, 800F AND 1000F HAVE AN INTERNAL COOLING FAN.

IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE FEEL FREE TO EMAIL ME OR CALL AT THE ABOVE ADDRESS/PH #. MY OFFICE HOURS ARE 9.00 A.M. ? 5.00 P.M. MONDAY ? THURSDAY.
THE PREFERRED METHOD OF PAYMENT IS VIA MONEY ORDER. THIS ALLOWS US TO SHIP THE SAME DAY THE MO IS RECEIVED (EXCEPT FRIDAYS) CHEQUES MUST WAIT 14 DAYS TO CLEAR. SHIPPING IS VIA UPS GROUND UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED.

AMPLIFIER INFORMATION SECTION

* PLANET AUDIO 2 CHANNEL AMPS HAVE LOW AND HIGH PASS CROSSOVERS
* PLANET AUDIO 4 CHANNEL AMPLIFIERS HAVE LOW PASS AND FIXED 160Hz HIGH PASS CROSSOVERS.
* BOSS ?CLR? 2 CHANNEL AMP HAVE LOW PASS X/OVER AND BASS + TREBLE CONTROLS
* BOSS ?CLR? 4 CHANNEL AMPS HAVE THE SAME AS 2 CH BUT ON EACH PAIR OF CHANNELS
* BOSS 2 CH ?CHAOS? AMPS HAVE LOW PASS X/OVER AND BASS BOOST AT 40Hz
* BOSS 4 CH ?CHAOS? AMPS HAVE LOW PASS X/OVER
* BOSS 2 CH ?HAVOC? AMPS HIGH AND LOW PASS X/OVERS, BASS + TREBLE
* BOSS 4 CH ?HAVOC? AMPS HIGH AND LOW PASS X/OVERS, BASS
* USX 2 CH AMPS 2050,2080,2100 HAVE HIGH AND LOW PASS X/OVERS
* USX 2100, 2150, 600F, 800F, 1000F HAVE BASS BOOST
* USX2150, 600F, 800F,1000F HAVE LOW PASS CROSSOVER ONLY
· USX 4 CH AMPS HAVE LOW PASS ON EACH PAIR OF CH?s AND A MONO LOW PASS SIGNAL SECTION WITH LINE OUT.
· USA 2050-2150 HAVE LOW PASS CROSSOVER
· USA 2200/2300 HAVE LOW PASS X/OVER AND BASS BOOST
· USA 4050/4060 HAVE HIGH PASS CROSSOVERS x 2
· USA 4080 HAS 2 x HIGH PASS AND 1 x LOW PASS CROSSOVERS
 

sygyzy

Lifer
Oct 21, 2000
14,001
4
76
I think this thread has lost the fire it once had. Everyone come back!

Here is an update, rambling of thoughts:

Here is my allowance for both a sub and 4ch amp depending on which route I go:

Adire Sub, Adire Comps, No Rear Fill = $525
Adire Sub, Infinity Comps, No Rear Fill = $695
Adire Sub, Infinity Comps, Infinity Rears = $605

I realized that it will be very tough to keep the $1000 budget. Even if I go no rear fill, any money I would have saved is lost due to the Adire comps costing $300. With that said, what should I do?

To be honest, the sub is decided and the comp and rear issue is not too bad. What is very difficult for me is choosing the sub and 4ch amp. If I go no rear fill I still want 4ch so I can have the option of having rear in the future.

I like the Rainbow suggestion, and their prices are cheap <--- referring to the speakers.

But what do I do for amps? I'd like some (5 ish) suggestions. I already have JBL and JL on the list. To be honest, I don't like JBL at all except for the nice price. The JL's might be out of my league, too expensive. Anyone else? No RF, don't want to buy them.

Don't bother recommending professional competition style expensive amps. I can't afford them anyway.
 

glen

Lifer
Apr 28, 2000
15,995
1
81
For 6.5 inchs, I would get either:
JL Audio TR650-CX $100 a pair.
JL Audio VR650-CX $150 a pair.
JL Audio XR650-CX $175 a pair.
 

Viperoni

Lifer
Jan 4, 2000
11,084
1
71
Originally posted by: sygyzy
I think this thread has lost the fire it once had. Everyone come back!

Here is an update, rambling of thoughts:

Here is my allowance for both a sub and 4ch amp depending on which route I go:

Adire Sub, Adire Comps, No Rear Fill = $525
Adire Sub, Infinity Comps, No Rear Fill = $695
Adire Sub, Infinity Comps, Infinity Rears = $605

I realized that it will be very tough to keep the $1000 budget. Even if I go no rear fill, any money I would have saved is lost due to the Adire comps costing $300. With that said, what should I do?

To be honest, the sub is decided and the comp and rear issue is not too bad. What is very difficult for me is choosing the sub and 4ch amp. If I go no rear fill I still want 4ch so I can have the option of having rear in the future.

I like the Rainbow suggestion, and their prices are cheap <--- referring to the speakers.

But what do I do for amps? I'd like some (5 ish) suggestions. I already have JBL and JL on the list. To be honest, I don't like JBL at all except for the nice price. The JL's might be out of my league, too expensive. Anyone else? No RF, don't want to buy them.

Don't bother recommending professional competition style expensive amps. I can't afford them anyway.

Well here's one thing to remember: the Adire 6.5's are nearly subs, they have a ton of excursion and can keep up with most anything you throw at them no problem. They'll blend very well with any sub for great sound quality by keeping the bass localized in the front of the car (which is exactly what you want).

That and the tweet is said to have pretty good offaxis response, which is usually a good thing for most installs.
You should be able to get a pretty nice 4ch amp from the leftover $400 though...
 

sygyzy

Lifer
Oct 21, 2000
14,001
4
76
Glen and Viper. Both very excellent pieces of advice. Now that we have that settled, which subs to power the amp and sub?

Or..here's another thought.

What about I don't buy a sub or a sub amp? With that being said, how do the Adire comps know they are supposed to take care of the low end? I assume you tweak some setting to tell it to send all the lows to the comps?