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Best HS&F or H20 cooling for some OCing a Q9650

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BTRY; nice progress. It looks great so far. Where did you end up getting the grommets? I may need some of those when I get started; probably another month, lol.

I think Ive seen grommets like that at home depot, but could be lying. Im sure I could find some locally somewhere.
 
Local hardware store. Not sure on the OD but the inner diameter is 3/4 They fit perfect and cover the imperfections. But what I'm worried about are those gaps on that elbow. I left some gaps because I was having a hell of a time pushing the tubing over em. Took, me all night just to do that little elbow and I have semi-blisters on my hands from it, hah/ow!

EDIT: Petra's Tech Shop has rubber grommets
 
Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN
Originally posted by: WoodButcher
Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN
I want to ask if these gaps will suffice. ???
Click to expand...

Looks fine.
Click to expand...

So no zip ties over the tube flowing down to the res?


Also, I am stumped on what to do in-case I need to drain the loop. I am stuck on ideas where to put a drain line; before or after the pump ???

Another thing: I'm not sure if i need a fill port. The res has a pour hole; is that enough?
Click to expand...

Hello BTRY,

You can use a T-line to drain the system - this is what I'm going to do:

CPU -> rads -> pump / res -> T-piece for T-line (the lowest point in the loop) -> CPU

In addition a T-line with a ball valve will be fitted to the T-piece and a fill port will drain into the top of the XSPC res.

Parts for fill port:
1 x EK G1/2 to G1/4 adapter for in the top of the XSPC res
1 x Fill port
2 x G1/4 EK barbs
2 x Worm clamps

Parts for T-line:
1 x G1/4 brass T-piece
1 x G1/4 EK barb
1 x G1/4 ball valve (I will put a tie-wrap around the ball valve to stop it from being opened accidentally)
4 x Worm clamps

I'm just waiting on the 360mm long fan grille and an additional barb before I can start modding the case for the liquid cooling. I will chase ChilledPCs tomorrow to find out what the hell is going on (it has been 4 weeks since the order was placed and I'm getting p*ssed off with waiting)

Keep us posted BTRY on your progress - it's looking good so far.
 
Thanks! I'm going right now to Home Depo to find hose clamps and an air filter for the house, hah *sneezes* ..o, also a ball valve, i was thinking of that but didn't think outside the box. Thanks again :beer:
 
Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN

So no zip ties over the tube flowing down to the res?

I double the zip ties, one in each direction, side by side. See my build thread.

Also, I am stumped on what to do in-case I need to drain the loop. I am stuck on ideas where to put a drain line; before or after the pump ???

I use a t-line. It can be anywhere in the loop but the lowest point is best for draining.

Another thing: I'm not sure if i need a fill port. The res has a pour hole; is that enough?

I use these so that I can run a tube to the res for access. It does not need to run to a fill port but only to a place that you can reach it. When your loop needs a "fill-up" you don't want to rip the entire box apart.
Click to expand...

 
I think the fitting gaps are questionable; I myself would try to get them on all the way. Will make for a cleaner look as well. Have you tried a heat gun or something to warm the hose up?

That or we need to get you working out your hands to strengthen them, lol. j/k

Your horror stories are scaring me...(getting weak at the knees..trembling) lol
 
dude....

try to pull that tubing off that nylon 90.

I dont think you'd need zipties on that, however for safety id throw one on.

nylon 90's are uber restrictive.. There not as smoothed out as a bitspower 90.

If you have the budget for possibly 20-30 dollars more in fittings, id say go bitspower for a cleaner package.

http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0155.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0157.jpg

picking the right fittings can make your life a LOT easier when routing.

http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0161.jpg
 
@ Infrnl - before i was informed about the water trick, i tried a hair dryer and it semi worked but i still blistered my hands. Don't worry, the water trick is way easier so you won't have to worry about high-fiving at the next football game 😀 I did actually end up getting a little wider zip tie and tied them both. But, I would of bet alot on those poly's that they wouldn't leak.

@ aigomorla - haha, omg, it would rip out the barb before the tubing would come off!
 
Making excellent progress. I like the plexi on the Supreme vs acetol (Just my preference).
Also couldnt you also use a 1" hole saw for the 1" holes? I would think it would make a nice clean hole as well. I know metal on spades does not last long and a 1" spade is not cheap. Whats your thought on this?
 
The spade was about 4$ and I think its a better cut. My 4 1/2" hole saw wasn't as clean a cut. This makes a clean circular cut as where the hole saw vibrated out of the ring. And you'll see on the hole saw the teeth are jagged making it more difficult; this spade bit was very easy to work with.

Thanks, I hope to get it done in a week or two. I have that 24pin jumper coming in as well as more parts I don't need like 4 poly tube fitting ends. I was originally going to have the tube stick out the bottom of the case with a poly tube end, but the idea of using the fill port was just too temping. And actually it will be more of a pain in the ass to do some wiring from the PSU around it but i blinged it out :I
 
Sweet; cant wait to see final results. I also like the way you did the drain with the fill port; turned our really nice. I know its a little late and is probably more expensive, but have you seen the BP Crystal T? Oh it looks so awesome. check it out if you want to add a little bling to your T
 
Thanks man, looking forward to see yours as well!

That's a nice lookin T But my thoughts on using it in a loop are that there is 3x more the chance of having a leak. I actually have a few T junctions like that but the more and more I thought about it, the bling of it just wasn't worth risking my stuff. I kinda actually like the esthetics of the poly better. I guess sometimes less is more 🙂
 
Whatever fiddles your fancy or whatever they say:laugh:
I understand where your coming from though.
Hey if you get time check out this build on that case you link in my thread. I think its pretty sweet. http://www.xtremesystems.org/f...howthread.php?t=210065

I am still thinking about what I want to do about a case but should have it figured out this week. Just tought getting myself to spend that much on a case. especially a MM; even though they are cool, they are kind of basic. Basically just panels; no real styling to it, but I have seen some pics of custom pain jobs and what not which makes them more appealing to the eye.
 
So now that I'm about 85-90% completed, its time to start thinking of what step to do first.

1, Install the cpu and block and complete my loop and run a leak test

or

2, Fit the block on; complete the loop, run the leak test, then install the cpu and muscle back in the cpu block

I ordered a PSU bypass adapter for like 2$ so I can run the loop without anything else running besides the pump. What steps would be most efficient and safe?
 
#1

Too bad ya bought that psu bypass adapter, I could have saved you a buck or two and sold you my A1 psu jumper, a box of 50 for a $1.99 and if you don't need them all they work pretty good for organizing your paper too.
 
Omg, i have 4 brass 1/2/ tubing plugs, orders 4 more poly tubing plugs, i have 3 extra fill ports, 3 elbows, 3 t-s and a about 5-6 fatboy's laying around so whats that spell, A I G O ... 🙁 that'll be for my second loop yay! hehe
 
Do you need the PSU bypass connector, or can you hot-wire the PSU by shorting the green cable with a black (ground) cable on the PSU 20/24-pin power connector using a piece of wire?

Also can you kill the PSU by it not having a load on it (i.e. it must always be supplying power to something whilst it is on)?

BTRY, once the liquid cooling system is up and running can you post with the best orientation for the EK Supreme CPU block? I'm guessing that whatever works for your Q9650 will work for my QX9770.
 
Yeah, i could of done the bypass myself, but i'm practicing patience. I think my local Micro Center had one, it just didn't occur to me that i'd rather use one than jumping it. Don't tell me, i know, its the same thing... anyways. I'm not sure, but I don't think it will kill the PSU And, the only way I am going to orient the block on is the way its shown as it makes for a cleaner looking loop and besides, the block will only fit the opposite way so, I don't think the performance will be worth the effort to test it e.g. 1-2 degrees then if it ends up worse, i'll have to re-orient it back the way i started, and that's 3x the effort I want to put into it.
 
Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN
Yeah, i could of done the bypass myself, but i'm practicing patience. I think my local Micro Center had one, it just didn't occur to me that i'd rather use one than jumping it. Don't tell me, i know, its the same thing... anyways. I'm not sure, but I don't think it will kill the PSU And, the only way I am going to orient the block on is the way its shown as it makes for a cleaner looking loop and besides, the block will only fit the opposite way so, I don't think the performance will be worth the effort to test it e.g. 1-2 degrees then if it ends up worse, i'll have to re-orient it back the way i started, and that's 3x the effort I want to put into it.
Click to expand...

That's probably want I'm going to do as well - the block will be orientated whichever is best for the tubing layout.

One thing I'm not sure about is when the system is bench-tested outside the case for 24hrs. How do you bleed the system? Do you just run the pump until it stops sounding noisy - how do you get the air out of the system?

Another is that I don't logistically know how I will be able to install the complete system (tubing, block, rad & res/pump) inside the case without taking it a part first. At the very least the radiator will need to be removed, which will involve draining the liquid out of the loop first. I'm guessing that the rest of the system (tubing, block & res/pump) can be installed in one piece. Then it's a case of connecting the tubing back to the rad. So as a minimium, two connections (inlet and oulet on the rad) will need to be removed and reconnected.

Is this correct? Or do you completely disassemble the loop to install it inside the case - doesn't this defeat the purpose of bench-testing the loop in the first place (i.e. ensuring that there are no leaks)?

Sorry to thread hijack BTRY.
 
No, that's perfectly alright as I was sorta wondering the same thing about leak testing cause if you test it outside the case and it needs to be taken apart to re-install it, that sorta defeats the purpose. I think that's why they created or do the jumper trick. The only thing i'm going to install is the CPU and nothing else and then let it run for 20+hrs. Actually i'm kinda glad I am using that case, cause if anything leaks, it'll mostly leak onto the case and i'll only have to worry about it making it to my PSU which is sorta out of the way...

Again, I would not want to take it apart after a leak test cause i imagine most leaks will be from barb gaskets or the tubing around them. I would install all of it and run the test with just the pump plugged in that way nothing else is energized and to be safe, lean the case so as if anything drips out, it'll drip away from the case/components.

If you still are not sure about the bleeding. Look over at XS forums and there is a guy who explains almost everything you want to know with a few exceptions.
 
Thanks for the reply BTRY.

My concern is that if anything leaks it's more than likely it will leak on to the MB. I was thinking about reversing the direction of the rad in the top of the Lian-li A70A case to the way EvilSponge installed it (i.e. inlet/outlet to the rear of the case), and locate it as close as possbile to the rear 120mm dia fan, so that I maximise the clearance available for the front drive bays and maximise the number of fans in the case by keeping the rear fan. This was one of the reasons why I didn't buy a Lian-li top panel with the fan holes already cut, so I have the freedom to put the rad wherever I like. The problem with this is that the inlet and outlet is directly above the MB rather than the drive bay.

Some how I've got to fit inside the 5.25" drive bays:
1x HDD in a 3.5" to 5.25" adapter
2x 5.25" DVD burners
1x floppy disk drive in a Lian-li 3.5" to 5.25" adapter with front bezel
And in the future a fan controller.

Whilst accommodating the 360mm rad.

With regard to bleeding the system, this is what I've found out from looking at posts on xtremesystems forum:

If you use a res, place it as high as possible in the system or alternatively have it as close as possible to the inlet on the pump (not a problem with the XSPC res/top). Leave the fill port open on the res or ideally have a tube connected to the top of the res with an external fill port - also left open. Whilst the pump is running the air will leave the system (supposedly it will take seconds for this to happen). You may have to tap the tubing or gently move the case from side to side to help get all the air out. Once all the air is out close the fill port on the res.

I?m sure others will correct me if I have got this bleeding procedure wrong 🙂

Oh, and I found this post, which may be useful for noobs like myself:

Originally Posted by SiGfever
Watercooling is as much an art as a science. Since everyone's systems vary slightly so do the results. There are some known variables that should apply to all loops.

1) Keep tubing as short as possible.
2) Reservoir before pump to insure an adequate supply of water to the pump with the least restriction.
3) Buy a good, strong, reliable pump.
4) You can not have too much radiator. And buy quality fans that have been proven winners for radiator use. (See Vapor's Fan Testing thread).
5) Do NOT mix metals in a loop.
6) Buy quality, proven waterblocks, rads, and reservoirs.
7) Pure distilled water has better heat transfer properties than other fluids until you get in to high dollar alternatives.
8) Add a "Biocide" of some sort (pet store Aquarium Algaecide will do, follow label directions).
9) Install drain valves in loop to facilitate draining and parts changing (trust me you will rebuild your loop more times than you can count as you get comfortable with it).
10) Use good clamps on your tubing if this is your first loop, afterwards you will find that tie wraps do a good job when the tubing is installed properly over the barbs. If using compression fittings follow manufacturer's recommendations.
11) When installing "o-ring" barbs do not over tighten, this is a learned thing. Typically hand tight and 1/2 -3/4 additional turn with wrench will do depending on fitting and o-ring size and barb design.
12) Leak check your loop with only the watercooling items and radiator fans running for 12- 24 hours before putting it into "Live" use.
13) Triple check all of you connections and then check them again before going live.
14) Allow several days for all the air to bleed from your loop before sealing your res up.
15) Provide additional air flow to your motherboard and other components to ensure total cooling of your system.
16) If old enough get a beer as you now deserve one.

Watercooling is safe and effective for heat removal on a computer system. It will allow you to obtain better overclocks by allowing the components to run cooler under increased loads. * But be warned...Warercooling is an addiction, and the forum takes no responsibility for the money and time spent on your new found addiction.
 
Forgot to add this to my previous post - you will need to top up the system with distilled water whilst bleeding it.
 
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