Thanks for the reply BTRY.
My concern is that if anything leaks it's more than likely it will leak on to the MB. I was thinking about reversing the direction of the rad in the top of the Lian-li A70A case to the way EvilSponge installed it (i.e. inlet/outlet to the rear of the case), and locate it as close as possbile to the rear 120mm dia fan, so that I maximise the clearance available for the front drive bays and maximise the number of fans in the case by keeping the rear fan. This was one of the reasons why I didn't buy a Lian-li top panel with the fan holes already cut, so I have the freedom to put the rad wherever I like. The problem with this is that the inlet and outlet is directly above the MB rather than the drive bay.
Some how I've got to fit inside the 5.25" drive bays:
1x HDD in a 3.5" to 5.25" adapter
2x 5.25" DVD burners
1x floppy disk drive in a Lian-li 3.5" to 5.25" adapter with front bezel
And in the future a fan controller.
Whilst accommodating the 360mm rad.
With regard to bleeding the system, this is what I've found out from looking at posts on xtremesystems forum:
If you use a res, place it as high as possible in the system or alternatively have it as close as possible to the inlet on the pump (not a problem with the XSPC res/top). Leave the fill port open on the res or ideally have a tube connected to the top of the res with an external fill port - also left open. Whilst the pump is running the air will leave the system (supposedly it will take seconds for this to happen). You may have to tap the tubing or gently move the case from side to side to help get all the air out. Once all the air is out close the fill port on the res.
I?m sure others will correct me if I have got this bleeding procedure wrong
Oh, and I found this post, which may be useful for noobs like myself:
Originally Posted by SiGfever
Watercooling is as much an art as a science. Since everyone's systems vary slightly so do the results. There are some known variables that should apply to all loops.
1) Keep tubing as short as possible.
2) Reservoir before pump to insure an adequate supply of water to the pump with the least restriction.
3) Buy a good, strong, reliable pump.
4) You can not have too much radiator. And buy quality fans that have been proven winners for radiator use. (See Vapor's Fan Testing thread).
5) Do NOT mix metals in a loop.
6) Buy quality, proven waterblocks, rads, and reservoirs.
7) Pure distilled water has better heat transfer properties than other fluids until you get in to high dollar alternatives.
8) Add a "Biocide" of some sort (pet store Aquarium Algaecide will do, follow label directions).
9) Install drain valves in loop to facilitate draining and parts changing (trust me you will rebuild your loop more times than you can count as you get comfortable with it).
10) Use good clamps on your tubing if this is your first loop, afterwards you will find that tie wraps do a good job when the tubing is installed properly over the barbs. If using compression fittings follow manufacturer's recommendations.
11) When installing "o-ring" barbs do not over tighten, this is a learned thing. Typically hand tight and 1/2 -3/4 additional turn with wrench will do depending on fitting and o-ring size and barb design.
12) Leak check your loop with only the watercooling items and radiator fans running for 12- 24 hours before putting it into "Live" use.
13) Triple check all of you connections and then check them again before going live.
14) Allow several days for all the air to bleed from your loop before sealing your res up.
15) Provide additional air flow to your motherboard and other components to ensure total cooling of your system.
16) If old enough get a beer as you now deserve one.
Watercooling is safe and effective for heat removal on a computer system. It will allow you to obtain better overclocks by allowing the components to run cooler under increased loads. * But be warned...Warercooling is an addiction, and the forum takes no responsibility for the money and time spent on your new found addiction.