Audiophiles can't tell the difference between Monster Cable and coat hangers.

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Rubycon

Madame President
Aug 10, 2005
17,768
485
126
Originally posted by: hanoverphist

you cant really compare stage quality shit with home needs either, the demand alone isnt there. i used to run 2 peavey SP-1 monitors (with 15" black widows still in them) in my house, but i could never even push the volume past 3. the neighbors would complain, windows would rattle and pictures would fall off the wall. those 850W xovers were beautiful also. before that i had 2 coustic dual 13" ceramic monitors, and those would make ears bleed. i also used my inherited cables from shows i had worked, but they sounded about the same with the crappy home stuff i had. you wouldnt even hear a difference in cables unless you were on a larger scaled distributed system like at a concert or show of some size.

Imagine what it must be like getting "Rick Rolled" in a 12x10 room with two SP6's, two LS1208's with 10kW of QSC Powerlight power on tap. :laugh: Thank goodness for footswitches.

 

mrSHEiK124

Lifer
Mar 6, 2004
11,488
2
0
Originally posted by: Rubycon
Originally posted by: hanoverphist

you cant really compare stage quality shit with home needs either, the demand alone isnt there. i used to run 2 peavey SP-1 monitors (with 15" black widows still in them) in my house, but i could never even push the volume past 3. the neighbors would complain, windows would rattle and pictures would fall off the wall. those 850W xovers were beautiful also. before that i had 2 coustic dual 13" ceramic monitors, and those would make ears bleed. i also used my inherited cables from shows i had worked, but they sounded about the same with the crappy home stuff i had. you wouldnt even hear a difference in cables unless you were on a larger scaled distributed system like at a concert or show of some size.

Imagine what it must be like getting "Rick Rolled" in a 12x10 room with two SP6's, two LS1208's with 10kW of QSC Powerlight power on tap. :laugh: Thank goodness for footswitches.

All I could understand is 10 kW. That must be one fucking awesome Rick Roll. I came buckets.

BTW SlickSnake and gorcorps, I like how you both ignored the point I made about Monster HDMI cables. Here, I'll make it again in case you missed it:

Amazon charges $79.28 for an ultra-high speed 2 meter HDMI Monster cable.This is well below MSRP of $129.95
http://www.amazon.com/gp/produ...&qid=1204658254&sr=8-1

Monoprice charges $12.52 for a 6 foot HDMI 1.3a cable. You'd have to need to replace the Monoprice cable more than 6 times in order for it to pay for the Monster cable, which wouldn't be necessary to begin with since they have a lifetime warranty too. Anyone paying for Monster cable is paying for a brand name, just like Bose.
 
Mar 11, 2004
23,444
5,849
146
Personally, I don't have any experience with high end cables, so I can't say what my own thoughts on it are. I very much would like to just to see how it turns out. Beyond that, you really cannot discard the psychological impact. So what if your ears can't actually hear the difference? If your mind thinks it sounds better then great, as the more time/money you spend in the audio world, the less you are likely to find those moments where you are happy with improving your setup. So if you can spend $250 on a cable instead of $1000 on changing a source (especially if you've gotten used to how you use that source) and get the same boost mentally, then hey good for you, spend the money you "saved" on a ton of new music to listen to it on. Of course in most cases, I would say the money would be better spent on better the basic parts (source, amp, speakers). Then there's also the fact that you ideally want to keep cable runs as short as possible and as few of them as you can as well, both things which should help lower the cost of the cables needed. I've never fully understood people who drop $100 on an iPod, then $150 on an amp, and then $100 on a lineout dock that is all of 5" long (check out ALO Audio) when they have $100 headphones. While the iPod's sound quality through the lineout is probably as good as just about any MP3 player (so spending more on that aspect for something with similar features won't necessarily improve quality), the money could definitely be better spent on the amp or even better, the headphones. Now I can see dropping some money if you've already got a high end setup (as in $10,000+), as at that point you're reaching less absolute increases in quality and are getting very much into preference in sound.
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
99,187
17,482
126
Originally posted by: DrPizza
Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
The power lines that run for miles and miles into your house are plain, copper cable. <snip>

Actually, it's cheaper to use aluminum for transmission lines, and unless I'm mistaken, most transmission lines are aluminum.

I thought there was something to do with the weight issue too.
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
99,187
17,482
126
Originally posted by: Rubycon
Originally posted by: hanoverphist

you cant really compare stage quality shit with home needs either, the demand alone isnt there. i used to run 2 peavey SP-1 monitors (with 15" black widows still in them) in my house, but i could never even push the volume past 3. the neighbors would complain, windows would rattle and pictures would fall off the wall. those 850W xovers were beautiful also. before that i had 2 coustic dual 13" ceramic monitors, and those would make ears bleed. i also used my inherited cables from shows i had worked, but they sounded about the same with the crappy home stuff i had. you wouldnt even hear a difference in cables unless you were on a larger scaled distributed system like at a concert or show of some size.

Imagine what it must be like getting "Rick Rolled" in a 12x10 room with two SP6's, two LS1208's with 10kW of QSC Powerlight power on tap. :laugh: Thank goodness for footswitches.

The power company must love you.

"Shit, our grid is being drained again. Damn you Rubycon!"
 

QueBert

Lifer
Jan 6, 2002
22,921
1,117
126
I read an article on sugar pills and how they tricked people into thinking the generics were top $$$ versions of the pill and gave them to people. And most of them claimed they felt better after taking what they thought was the $2.50 one but was actual a 10 cent generic.

Stupid or not, a mind can be tricked into believing something that's not true. And if a person really thinks their 2g speakers sound better with $200 monster cables how is that a bad deal for them? the psychological effect of buying expensive brands tends to make people feel like they have something better, even if the quality is worse than a generic brand.
 

wetech

Senior member
Jul 16, 2002
871
6
81
Originally posted by: SlickSnake
It's obviously hard to quantify the difference with a simple statement, like it sounds better, but it did on the surrounds. The difference was there, and it was as I described it. If I had to put a percentage on it, perhaps a 15-20% improvement in the surrounds both volume wise and imaging. The midrange seemed to be more clear and less muddy when it was localized in the surrounds. It was enough so that it was noticably louder using the Z1 series versus 16 guage at the same HT settings. But obviously, if I am using it for the surrounds, I will also want Z1 for the mains, too.

Of course, when someone is using crappy components and speakers, you may not notice the difference at all with Z1 over distances, compared to a cheap, thin lamp cord. It seems kind of juvenile to spend 1000s on a high quality HT and then be a complete cheapskate on the main link between the amp and the speakers. Just because you can't personally hear or figure out the advanced physics of electrical conductivity as a valid reason for using a quality speaker wire that can handle the extremely fast fluctuations of the ohms and watts running to a speaker using high wattage loads. I know for a fact my speakers and amp can handle and produce 2 ohm loads that will fry most amps and speakers at high volumes.

Some of the energy that is sent to the speaker is actually wasted and unused and is then sent briefly back into the wires which can also make the difference between a blown amp, speaker, or both. And latent amp and speaker distortion can amplify this effect dramatically. I would much rather drive my HT at high volume knowing the speaker wire can adequately handle the varying load without causing problems. And I also kind of doubt that running a high powered amp with a short coat hanger for a wire would work for very long at any sort of high volume before it burned out the speakers and amp, and for the reasons listed above.

But hey, when you HT n00bs post later in audio and video about burned out amps and speakers running thin lamp cord or coat hangers, don't ask for my advice.



As someone who obviously can "hear and figure out the advanced physics of electrical conductivity", can you please explain this to me. You say that changing out the speaker cable caused a 15-20% increase in the volume of your speakers. A 20% increase in loudness is roughly 3db. In order to get a 3db increase in loudness, you need a doubling of power. So how did changing your speaker cables double the power output of your receiver?


Here's a good review that actually does use physics to measure and rate the performance of various speaker cables. They include a bunch of home made stuff. Link The best measurements were obtained by various iterations of braided CAT5 cable. Monster cable was beaten by a power cord purchased at Home Depot.


 

Pacfanweb

Lifer
Jan 2, 2000
13,155
59
91
Originally posted by: SlickSnake
Originally posted by: Siddhartha
Awhile back, 20+ years ago, High Fidelity, Stereo Review, or Auido, did a double blind test comparing speakers that costed tens of thousands of dollars to less than $1000. They used an equalizer and sound meter to get the frequency response curves and loudness levels of the speakers close as possible.

If I remember correctly most of the golden ears could not tell the difference between speakers that costed more than 30 times other speakers. The magazine got a lot of angry letters about the test and results. Some people argued against using a double blind test!
Well, if you have to use equalizers and sound meters to get the speakers to sound perfectly identicle, what do you expect to hear? That is hardly an out of the box sound that is native to the speaker then, is it? What kind of stupid test was that? I can imagine they got a lot of angry reponses.

The point wasn't comparing the speakers as they were, side by side with the same settings on an amp, they were trying to make them sound identicle in the first place! The amp settings and everyting were completely different on the speakers for the test to work. That pretty much negates the test, since normally none of those speakers would be compared like that.

Obviously, all the speakers can be made to sound flat and lifeless and the same! Deep bass here, well, let's just take that out! Too much midrange here, well, we can just remove it! What a stupid test. I would certainly hope they could all be equalized into bland mediocrity for the sake of that test. That test just proves any speaker can be made to sound average, so what?
Wow, you are dense. That test got the playing field as level as possible, so nobody could cite other factors like the room or speaker placement as a reason they heard a difference.
They did this at setup, then started swapping cables. All the cables had the same chance to power the speakers....and nobody could tell a difference.
They basically took everything else out of the equation.

Again, read Roger Russell's site....he knows FAR more about this subject, and has developed FAR better speaker systems than you've ever listened to.

All the so-called "experts" continually refuse offers to take double-blind tests of speaker wire.....because they know there is no difference.

The only way anyone has ever heard a difference is either A) they had wire that was too small to begin with, or B) something was wrong with the wire they replaced.

Otherwise, it is impossible that speaker wire, even the 5000 dollar stuff, makes a difference in the sound.
All this talk about "imaging" "soundstage" "color", etc, is utter B.S.
 
Dec 26, 2007
11,782
2
76
Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
Originally posted by: SlickSnake
Originally posted by: Siddhartha
Awhile back, 20+ years ago, High Fidelity, Stereo Review, or Auido, did a double blind test comparing speakers that costed tens of thousands of dollars to less than $1000. They used an equalizer and sound meter to get the frequency response curves and loudness levels of the speakers close as possible.

If I remember correctly most of the golden ears could not tell the difference between speakers that costed more than 30 times other speakers. The magazine got a lot of angry letters about the test and results. Some people argued against using a double blind test!
Well, if you have to use equalizers and sound meters to get the speakers to sound perfectly identicle, what do you expect to hear? That is hardly an out of the box sound that is native to the speaker then, is it? What kind of stupid test was that? I can imagine they got a lot of angry reponses.

The point wasn't comparing the speakers as they were, side by side with the same settings on an amp, they were trying to make them sound identicle in the first place! The amp settings and everyting were completely different on the speakers for the test to work. That pretty much negates the test, since normally none of those speakers would be compared like that.

Obviously, all the speakers can be made to sound flat and lifeless and the same! Deep bass here, well, let's just take that out! Too much midrange here, well, we can just remove it! What a stupid test. I would certainly hope they could all be equalized into bland mediocrity for the sake of that test. That test just proves any speaker can be made to sound average, so what?
Wow, you are dense. That test got the playing field as level as possible, so nobody could cite other factors like the room or speaker placement as a reason they heard a difference.
They did this at setup, then started swapping cables. All the cables had the same chance to power the speakers....and nobody could tell a difference.
They basically took everything else out of the equation.

Again, read Roger Russell's site....he knows FAR more about this subject, and has developed FAR better speaker systems than you've ever listened to.

All the so-called "experts" continually refuse offers to take double-blind tests of speaker wire.....because they know there is no difference.

The only way anyone has ever heard a difference is either A) they had wire that was too small to begin with, or B) something was wrong with the wire they replaced.

Otherwise, it is impossible that speaker wire, even the 5000 dollar stuff, makes a difference in the sound.
All this talk about "imaging" "soundstage" "color", etc, is utter B.S.

You forget option C) they just got a lucky guess.
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
99,187
17,482
126
Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
Wow, you are dense. That test got the playing field as level as possible, so nobody could cite other factors like the room or speaker placement as a reason they heard a difference.
They did this at setup, then started swapping cables. All the cables had the same chance to power the speakers....and nobody could tell a difference.
They basically took everything else out of the equation.

Again, read Roger Russell's site....he knows FAR more about this subject, and has developed FAR better speaker systems than you've ever listened to.

All the so-called "experts" continually refuse offers to take double-blind tests of speaker wire.....because they know there is no difference.

The only way anyone has ever heard a difference is either A) they had wire that was too small to begin with, or B) something was wrong with the wire they replaced.

Otherwise, it is impossible that speaker wire, even the 5000 dollar stuff, makes a difference in the sound.
All this talk about "imaging" "soundstage" "color", etc, is utter B.S.

I think we scared him away...
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
99,187
17,482
126
Originally posted by: wetech



As someone who obviously can "hear and figure out the advanced physics of electrical conductivity", can you please explain this to me. You say that changing out the speaker cable caused a 15-20% increase in the volume of your speakers. A 20% increase in loudness is roughly 3db. In order to get a 3db increase in loudness, you need a doubling of power. So how did changing your speaker cables double the power output of your receiver?


Here's a good review that actually does use physics to measure and rate the performance of various speaker cables. They include a bunch of home made stuff. Link The best measurements were obtained by various iterations of braided CAT5 cable. Monster cable was beaten by a power cord purchased at Home Depot.

Thank you for that link, it was a fun read.
 

Oyeve

Lifer
Oct 18, 1999
22,047
876
126
I just get the thickest cheapest cable I can find for speakers. Monster has and will always be a ripoff. Especially with optical. I bought a $3 dollar toslink from some 99c store and works just as well as my old monster cable that cost 100 bucks for 3ft ten years ago. Its optical. Its either on or off. For short runs cheap is fine. Digital coax? A joke. Radio shack $2 RCA cables work just as well. Its digital, its either on or off.
 

Pepsei

Lifer
Dec 14, 2001
12,895
1
0
well... once a person realized that they got ripped off, they either

1) learn from their mistake and move on
2) defend their choice to the death
 

SlickSnake

Diamond Member
May 29, 2007
5,235
2
0
Originally posted by: wetech
Originally posted by: SlickSnake
It's obviously hard to quantify the difference with a simple statement, like it sounds better, but it did on the surrounds. The difference was there, and it was as I described it. If I had to put a percentage on it, perhaps a 15-20% improvement in the surrounds both volume wise and imaging. The midrange seemed to be more clear and less muddy when it was localized in the surrounds. It was enough so that it was noticably louder using the Z1 series versus 16 guage at the same HT settings. But obviously, if I am using it for the surrounds, I will also want Z1 for the mains, too.

Of course, when someone is using crappy components and speakers, you may not notice the difference at all with Z1 over distances, compared to a cheap, thin lamp cord. It seems kind of juvenile to spend 1000s on a high quality HT and then be a complete cheapskate on the main link between the amp and the speakers. Just because you can't personally hear or figure out the advanced physics of electrical conductivity as a valid reason for using a quality speaker wire that can handle the extremely fast fluctuations of the ohms and watts running to a speaker using high wattage loads. I know for a fact my speakers and amp can handle and produce 2 ohm loads that will fry most amps and speakers at high volumes.

Some of the energy that is sent to the speaker is actually wasted and unused and is then sent briefly back into the wires which can also make the difference between a blown amp, speaker, or both. And latent amp and speaker distortion can amplify this effect dramatically. I would much rather drive my HT at high volume knowing the speaker wire can adequately handle the varying load without causing problems. And I also kind of doubt that running a high powered amp with a short coat hanger for a wire would work for very long at any sort of high volume before it burned out the speakers and amp, and for the reasons listed above.

But hey, when you HT n00bs post later in audio and video about burned out amps and speakers running thin lamp cord or coat hangers, don't ask for my advice.



As someone who obviously can "hear and figure out the advanced physics of electrical conductivity", can you please explain this to me. You say that changing out the speaker cable caused a 15-20% increase in the volume of your speakers. A 20% increase in loudness is roughly 3db. In order to get a 3db increase in loudness, you need a doubling of power. So how did changing your speaker cables double the power output of your receiver?


Here's a good review that actually does use physics to measure and rate the performance of various speaker cables. They include a bunch of home made stuff. Link The best measurements were obtained by various iterations of braided CAT5 cable. Monster cable was beaten by a power cord purchased at Home Depot.

BTW, the speaker cables running to my surrounds were 16 gauge and about 30 years old, and they were originally clear jackets. The copper in the jackets was mostly green from age, and in many places the wire was completely green and corroded to the point you almost couldn't see the wire at all. It was like little blobs of green crap inside the jackets. In some spots this wire I had looked fine, but slightly green colored. In other spots, you could see the corrosion completely destroying the wire inside the clear plastic jackets. The effect was irregular with no obvious pattern to the corrosion.

And when you buy cheap, crap wire, especially when it's a solid color plastic jacket and you can't see the wire in the jackets, you can't be sure what the wire might actually look like inside 5 or 10 years down the road. The effect to volume after using a new Z1 speaker cable was more than a little noticeable. Just as I stated.

The wires were originally bought at Radio Shack as speaker cable - not lamp wire. ;)

And when they do these comparison tests they usually fail to use the highest quality of Monster speaker cable they can get. They usually go and get the cheap 16 gauge stuff you can get in a roll of 100 feet at most retail stores for $50 retail. That is hardly a representative test of Monster speaker wire, like the Z series and up. The MCX-1s they used have a lower retail price per foot than even the Z1s which I use at $2.50 per foot versus $1.50 per foot for the MCX-1s. Both use the magnetic flux tube construction.

And the Original Monster cable in that comparison isn't even identified, lol. And yet the Navajo is a cheap Monster brand using the same magnetic flux tube design as the Z1 and M series uses, yet it rated better than the M series? Their questionable findings seem to be somewhat in doubt there. Was this a terminator or length difference?

Another thing to point out about these "tests" is he also used different cable lengths, as long as 26 feet! This was not an accurate test based on this fact alone. Another major factor in this test is the connectors used. You would have to use the same connector for every set of cables to ensure the connector was not a limiting factor in the final readings, which he did not do.

That is a good reference link, though. Too bad it was not available when I bought my Z1s 6 years ago, but that's life, isn't it?
 

SlickSnake

Diamond Member
May 29, 2007
5,235
2
0
Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
Originally posted by: SlickSnake
Originally posted by: Siddhartha
Awhile back, 20+ years ago, High Fidelity, Stereo Review, or Auido, did a double blind test comparing speakers that costed tens of thousands of dollars to less than $1000. They used an equalizer and sound meter to get the frequency response curves and loudness levels of the speakers close as possible.

If I remember correctly most of the golden ears could not tell the difference between speakers that costed more than 30 times other speakers. The magazine got a lot of angry letters about the test and results. Some people argued against using a double blind test!
Well, if you have to use equalizers and sound meters to get the speakers to sound perfectly identicle, what do you expect to hear? That is hardly an out of the box sound that is native to the speaker then, is it? What kind of stupid test was that? I can imagine they got a lot of angry reponses.

The point wasn't comparing the speakers as they were, side by side with the same settings on an amp, they were trying to make them sound identicle in the first place! The amp settings and everyting were completely different on the speakers for the test to work. That pretty much negates the test, since normally none of those speakers would be compared like that.

Obviously, all the speakers can be made to sound flat and lifeless and the same! Deep bass here, well, let's just take that out! Too much midrange here, well, we can just remove it! What a stupid test. I would certainly hope they could all be equalized into bland mediocrity for the sake of that test. That test just proves any speaker can be made to sound average, so what?
Wow, you are dense. That test got the playing field as level as possible, so nobody could cite other factors like the room or speaker placement as a reason they heard a difference.
They did this at setup, then started swapping cables. All the cables had the same chance to power the speakers....and nobody could tell a difference.
They basically took everything else out of the equation.

Again, read Roger Russell's site....he knows FAR more about this subject, and has developed FAR better speaker systems than you've ever listened to.

All the so-called "experts" continually refuse offers to take double-blind tests of speaker wire.....because they know there is no difference.

The only way anyone has ever heard a difference is either A) they had wire that was too small to begin with, or B) something was wrong with the wire they replaced.

Otherwise, it is impossible that speaker wire, even the 5000 dollar stuff, makes a difference in the sound.
All this talk about "imaging" "soundstage" "color", etc, is utter B.S.

Were you drunk, stoned or both when you posted this? It would explain a lot.

They were comparing SPEAKERS, not CABLES. Unless the poster about this article, Siddhartha, was entirely WRONG. If you were comparing CABLES you would use the exact same setup and just swap out CABLES to see if there was a difference, not swap out SPEAKERS and recalibrate well, EVERYTHING. So my statement and observation stands and yours is utter BS.

Unless you are simply confusing this with a different test. But you can't both be right here, it makes no sense. Thanks for really trying to discredit my opinion, though. :p
 

SlickSnake

Diamond Member
May 29, 2007
5,235
2
0
Originally posted by: mrSHEiK124
Originally posted by: Rubycon
Originally posted by: hanoverphist

you cant really compare stage quality shit with home needs either, the demand alone isnt there. i used to run 2 peavey SP-1 monitors (with 15" black widows still in them) in my house, but i could never even push the volume past 3. the neighbors would complain, windows would rattle and pictures would fall off the wall. those 850W xovers were beautiful also. before that i had 2 coustic dual 13" ceramic monitors, and those would make ears bleed. i also used my inherited cables from shows i had worked, but they sounded about the same with the crappy home stuff i had. you wouldnt even hear a difference in cables unless you were on a larger scaled distributed system like at a concert or show of some size.

Imagine what it must be like getting "Rick Rolled" in a 12x10 room with two SP6's, two LS1208's with 10kW of QSC Powerlight power on tap. :laugh: Thank goodness for footswitches.

All I could understand is 10 kW. That must be one fucking awesome Rick Roll. I came buckets.

BTW SlickSnake and gorcorps, I like how you both ignored the point I made about Monster HDMI cables. Here, I'll make it again in case you missed it:
Amazon charges $79.28 for an ultra-high speed 2 meter HDMI Monster cable.This is well below MSRP of $129.95
http://www.amazon.com/gp/produ...&qid=1204658254&sr=8-1

Monoprice charges $12.52 for a 6 foot HDMI 1.3a cable. You'd have to need to replace the Monoprice cable more than 6 times in order for it to pay for the Monster cable, which wouldn't be necessary to begin with since they have a lifetime warranty too. Anyone paying for Monster cable is paying for a brand name, just like Bose.

I didn't miss this important post in the first place. I didn't repond because we are talking about SPEAKER CABLES in this topic not the 100s of other cables Monster and Monoprice make. If you want to argue HDMI cable prices, there are at least 100 other topics you can do that in. :confused:

 

wetech

Senior member
Jul 16, 2002
871
6
81
Originally posted by: SlickSnake

BTW, the speaker cables running to my surrounds were 16 gauge and about 30 years old, and they were originally clear jackets. The copper in the jackets was mostly green from age, and in many places the wire was completely green and corroded to the point you almost couldn't see the wire at all. It was like little blobs of green crap inside the jackets. In some spots this wire I had looked fine, but slightly green colored. In other spots, you could see the corrosion completely destroying the wire inside the clear plastic jackets. The effect was irregular with no obvious pattern to the corrosion.

This alone accounts for any difference you heard. You can't fairly compare wires that are falling apart with a new one, and then claim that the difference is purely on the superior quality of the new cables compared to other new cables. Especially when replacing 16AWG with something thicker, although we don't know what gauge your new wire is since Monster doesn't list it... although it does have 'magnetic flux tubes' and 'time correct windings'


And when you buy cheap, crap wire, especially when it's a solid color plastic jacket and you can't see the wire in the jackets, you can't be sure what the wire might actually look like inside 5 or 10 years down the road. The effect to volume after using a new Z1 speaker cable was more than a little noticeable. Just as I stated.

The wires were originally bought at Radio Shack as speaker cable - not lamp wire. ;)

And when they do these comparison tests they usually fail to use the highest quality of Monster speaker cable they can get. They usually go and get the cheap 16 gauge stuff you can get in a roll of 100 feet at most retail stores for $50 retail. That is hardly a representative test of Monster speaker wire, like the Z series and up. The MCX-1s they used have a lower retail price per foot than even the Z1s which I use at $2.50 per foot versus $1.50 per foot for the MCX-1s. Both use the magnetic flux tube construction.

And the Original Monster cable in that comparison isn't even identified, lol. And yet the Navajo is a cheap Monster brand using the same magnetic flux tube design as the Z1 and M series uses, yet it rated better than the M series? Their questionable findings seem to be somewhat in doubt there. Was this a terminator or length difference?

The Original Monster is your standard roll of 12 gauge zip cord.


Another thing to point out about these "tests" is he also used different cable lengths, as long as 26 feet! This was not an accurate test based on this fact alone. Another major factor in this test is the connectors used. You would have to use the same connector for every set of cables to ensure the connector was not a limiting factor in the final readings, which he did not do.

That is a good reference link, though. Too bad it was not available when I bought my Z1s 6 years ago, but that's life, isn't it?

They state in their testing methodology that they normalized their test results to a per foot measurement. They also say that they used the same banana plug unless otherwise stated (ie, the Monster cable was terminated with a pin connector, so they had to spend another $25 for the Monster bananas).


 

SlickSnake

Diamond Member
May 29, 2007
5,235
2
0
Originally posted by: wetech
Originally posted by: SlickSnake

BTW, the speaker cables running to my surrounds were 16 gauge and about 30 years old, and they were originally clear jackets. The copper in the jackets was mostly green from age, and in many places the wire was completely green and corroded to the point you almost couldn't see the wire at all. It was like little blobs of green crap inside the jackets. In some spots this wire I had looked fine, but slightly green colored. In other spots, you could see the corrosion completely destroying the wire inside the clear plastic jackets. The effect was irregular with no obvious pattern to the corrosion.

This alone accounts for any difference you heard. You can't fairly compare wires that are falling apart with a new one, and then claim that the difference is purely on the superior quality of the new cables compared to other new cables. Especially when replacing 16AWG with something thicker, although we don't know what gauge your new wire is since Monster doesn't list it... although it does have 'magnetic flux tubes' and 'time correct windings'

And when you buy cheap, crap wire, especially when it's a solid color plastic jacket and you can't see the wire in the jackets, you can't be sure what the wire might actually look like inside 5 or 10 years down the road. The effect to volume after using a new Z1 speaker cable was more than a little noticeable. Just as I stated.

The wires were originally bought at Radio Shack as speaker cable - not lamp wire. ;)

And when they do these comparison tests they usually fail to use the highest quality of Monster speaker cable they can get. They usually go and get the cheap 16 gauge stuff you can get in a roll of 100 feet at most retail stores for $50 retail. That is hardly a representative test of Monster speaker wire, like the Z series and up. The MCX-1s they used have a lower retail price per foot than even the Z1s which I use at $2.50 per foot versus $1.50 per foot for the MCX-1s. Both use the magnetic flux tube construction.

And the Original Monster cable in that comparison isn't even identified, lol. And yet the Navajo is a cheap Monster brand using the same magnetic flux tube design as the Z1 and M series uses, yet it rated better than the M series? Their questionable findings seem to be somewhat in doubt there. Was this a terminator or length difference?

The Original Monster is your standard roll of 12 gauge zip cord.

Another thing to point out about these "tests" is he also used different cable lengths, as long as 26 feet! This was not an accurate test based on this fact alone. Another major factor in this test is the connectors used. You would have to use the same connector for every set of cables to ensure the connector was not a limiting factor in the final readings, which he did not do.

That is a good reference link, though. Too bad it was not available when I bought my Z1s 6 years ago, but that's life, isn't it?

They state in their testing methodology that they normalized their test results to a per foot measurement. They also say that they used the same banana plug unless otherwise stated (ie, the Monster cable was terminated with a pin connector, so they had to spend another $25 for the Monster bananas).

BTW, if you link an article in the future, try to link the first page of the article. I had to go back and look at the article linked again to find the washed out light blue links to the original Face off articles posted in 2003 or there abouts (since Face off 2 was in 2004).

You can't just pull a factor out of thin air, like weight, for trying to compare various types of wire, instead of lengths. I do not buy wire based on weight. You take the same lengths of wire and do a direct comparision of the results. The more they muck up a direct comparison, like rewinding/unwinding/seperating wires the more they mess with the test result outcomes. And then on top of that trying to calculate a stranded wire weight ratio into the formula, the more they mess up the true side by side test results.

The most interesting part of the various faceoffs was the part where they noted the corrosion on some of the wires due to reactions with the jacket and the possible effect on the abilty of the wire to perform properly. I can personally verify this negative effect.
 

wetech

Senior member
Jul 16, 2002
871
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Originally posted by: SlickSnake
BTW, if you link an article in the future, try to link the first page of the article. I had to go back and look at the article linked again to find the washed out light blue links to the original Face off articles posted in 2003 or there abouts (since Face off 2 was in 2004).

You can't just pull a factor out of thin air, like weight, for trying to compare various types of wire, instead of lengths. I do not buy wire based on weight. You take the same lengths of wire and do a direct comparision of the results. The more they muck up a direct comparison, like rewinding/unwinding/seperating wires the more they mess with the test result outcomes. And then on top of that trying to calculate a stranded wire weight ratio into the formula, the more they mess up the true side by side test results.

The most interesting part of the various faceoffs was the part where they noted the corrosion on some of the wires due to reactions with the jacket and the possible effect on the abilty of the wire to perform properly. I can personally verify this negative effect.

What do you mean "pull a factor out of thin are, like weight"?