AMD Ryzen 3000 Builders Thread

[JimKiler]

I'm a happy camper. Updated my primary rig to a ASRock X570 Taichi and 3950X. Sig updated to reflect. It's running very nicely. Hated to part ways with the 9900KF rig, but needed the cores.

What are you doing that was advantageous to swap out a 9900KF for a 3950X?

 

[tracerbullet]

Moving to 10 should be free w/ a valid 7 or 8 key. I have done this w/ 3 different computers in the last month and it worked in all cases.

2 of these moves were computers that got new SSD's in but otherwise were the same (a laptop and a desktop). Didn't have any issues whatsoever. These keys were original to those computers when they were purchased.

1 had almost all new components (board, CPU, RAM, video, M.2 drive, etc.) - I re-used the 7 key from the machine it replaced. It asked "did you replace some hardware", to which I said yes, and then it ran along merrily. This key was one I bought from Newegg for about $100, came on a DVD "for OEM builders", something like a decade ago.

I've avoided the cheap keys, wondering if somehow MS would wise up and say "hey, that was for a Dell sold in India, what are you doing with it" kind of scenario. They do seem to work though.

 

[Ajay]

Ryzen master gives me temps that are 10c higher than the other apps.

So right now I only use HWiNFO.

Checking it out, thanks. Dang, didn’t know modern hardware had so many sensors!!

You can buy a cheap OEM key, Tom's hardware had a link, like $25 but OEM keys are not reusable when you upgrade, but i would still do that then $125 for retail.

Thanks. Makaveli hooked me up with a good site and I got a great deal on Win10 Pro Retail.

 

[Makaveli]

Checking it out, thanks. Dang, didn’t know modern hardware had so many sensors!!

Ya the app is great I was also surprised at how many sensors I was able to see once I ran it.

 

[CHADBOGA]

Moving to 10 should be free w/ a valid 7 or 8 key. I have done this w/ 3 different computers in the last month and it worked in all cases.

2 of these moves were computers that got new SSD's in but otherwise were the same (a laptop and a desktop). Didn't have any issues whatsoever. These keys were original to those computers when they were purchased.

1 had almost all new components (board, CPU, RAM, video, M.2 drive, etc.) - I re-used the 7 key from the machine it replaced. It asked "did you replace some hardware", to which I said yes, and then it ran along merrily. This key was one I bought from Newegg for about $100, came on a DVD "for OEM builders", something like a decade ago.

I've avoided the cheap keys, wondering if somehow MS would wise up and say "hey, that was for a Dell sold in India, what are you doing with it" kind of scenario. They do seem to work though.

My cheap Win 10 Upgrade key has been going strong now for almost 18 months.

 

[Markfw]

I wish I had a better linux temp program. It says the 2080ti is 73c, but it says the cpu is 46c, and thats at 100% load. Seems low. Its only a 280mm AIO

 

[Ajay]

I wish I had a better linux temp program. It says the 2080ti is 73c, but it says the cpu is 46c, and thats at 100% load. Seems low. Its only a 280mm AIO

Yeah, that can’t be right. You’d think with all the geeks who are into Linux, that there’d be a better monitoring application.

 

[DooKey]

What are you doing that was advantageous to swap out a 9900KF for a 3950X?

I do a lot of distributed computing when I'm not gaming. More cores is better for that and the 3950X isn't a slouch at gaming. That's why I swapped them out.

 

[Ajay]

Hmm, starting to wonder if I should overclock this cpu. Under Linpack, my 'slowest cores boosted to 4.40GHz and two cores boosted to 4.65GHz. I am going to push my dram to 3600, if I got good sticks, I should be able to do that at cl14 with some extra voltage.

 

[tracerbullet]

For the Ryzen I'd read a few times a statement from AMD regarding temperature, something to the extent that the temp monitoring programs themselves would trigger the CPU to bump its power and therefore heat and cause odd readings. I think it was CPU-Z that was recommended. If that gives any ideas.

 

[Kenmitch]

I am going to push my dram to 3600, if I got good sticks, I should be able to do that at cl14 with some extra voltage.

I have the 16GB kit that you have listed in your sig. I'm running mine at 3600 CL14 @1.45v's without any issues. It should be pretty easy as long as your kit is worthy.

 

[Makaveli]

Hmm, starting to wonder if I should overclock this cpu. Under Linpack, my 'slowest cores boosted to 4.40GHz and two cores boosted to 4.65GHz. I am going to push my dram to 3600, if I got good sticks, I should be able to do that at cl14 with some extra voltage.

I believe those sticks are Samsung B Die same as mine you should have no problems with 3600 at a decent cas level.

 

[Kenmitch]

I believe those sticks are Samsung B Die same as mine you should have no problems with 3600 at a decent cas level.

Yep....But but all b-die isn't created equally. G.Skill should be good to go.

I have the CORSAIR Vengeance RGB PRO 16GB (2PK 8GB) 3.2GHz kit that's b-die and it's not worthy. Maybe it's just my uEFI doesn't like it? I'm leaning towards it's low binned junk b-die as my G.Skill has zero problems making the jump. Luckily I only paid $65 for it when it was on sale before black Friday.

 

[Ajay]

I believe those sticks are Samsung B Die same as mine you should have no problems with 3600 at a decent cas level.

Luckily I only paid $65 for it when it was on sale before black Friday.

Yep, they are B-Die. Cost me $120 on Black Friday, so I guess you get what you've paid for.

On the CPU overclocking, I had a bit of ID10T going on. I didn't look at sustained frequency graphs during load testing.
I just redid OCCT's non-AVX tests and it seems that I get to a stable all core boost of 4.2GHz @ 66C. I suppose I could go for an all core overclock of 4.4GHz - but I don't know if it's really worth it for 200MHz**. Plus, I'd lose the peak 4.65GHz boost in some low thread count games. Meh.

** Well, that ~5% overclock - lol! I guess the good ole days are gone

 

[Makaveli]

Yep, they are B-Die. Cost me $120 on Black Friday, so I guess you get what you've paid for.

On the CPU overclocking, I had a bit of ID10T going on. I didn't look at sustained frequency graphs during load testing.
I just redid OCCT's non-AVX tests and it seems that I get to a stable all core boost of 4.2GHz @ 66C. I suppose I could go for an all core overclock of 4.4GHz - but I don't know if it's really worth it for 200MHz**. Plus, I'd lose the peak 4.65GHz boost in some low thread count games. Meh.

** Well, that ~5% overclock - lol! I guess the good ole days are gone

To Be honest doesn't seem worth it on Ryzen 3000.

Just enable PBO and be done with it.

 

[DrMrLordX]

Just enable PBO and be done with it.

PBO is terrible on a lot of Matisse systems. I get worse MT scores with PBO than nearly any other configuration I've tried.

 

[Makaveli]

PBO is terrible on a lot of Matisse systems. I get worse MT scores with PBO than nearly any other configuration I've tried.

I haven't used it yet on my system will try it maybe later tonight when I get home from work to see how it runs for me.

 

[Ajay]

So, I tweaked the ram settings a bit more to: 14-15-14-28-42, 1T CD @ 3600 MHz, 1:1 FCLK. Very response system at this point. Don't know if I should try a -0.1 volt core voltage offset. At load, the system tends to run around 1.4v.

Here's a pic - quality isn't that good, had to adjust contrast to see anything. Never really realized how huge the D15 is! Too bad I don't have the new Black, Chroma version. Needs a few cables cleaned up (top). Otherwise, not very interesting too look at. I may have to add some 120mm top fans for the summer, but the two 140mm intakes are working fine, atm. I'm thinking of adding a couple of LED strips to I can see the internals through the window. I would just stick with a solid color.

 

[DrMrLordX]

Don't know if I should try a -0.1 volt core voltage offset. At load, the system tends to run around 1.4v.

Which AGESA version are you using? I found a combination of low LLC(LLC0 or LLC Off) plus negative voltage offset worked really well under AGESA 1.0.0.3ABBA. Not sure on 1.0.0.4 or later since I haven't tried those (no reason to). But before you try messing with voltage offsets, make sure to turn down the default LLC settings.

 

[thesmokingman]

For the Ryzen I'd read a few times a statement from AMD regarding temperature, something to the extent that the temp monitoring programs themselves would trigger the CPU to bump its power and therefore heat and cause odd readings. I think it was CPU-Z that was recommended. If that gives any ideas.

Here''s the link to it. Any monitoring that does not poll or poll too often should be ok. Can use hwi64 by disabling polling. That's how I use it, hwi64+rtss ftw. I still use AB for gpu clock control, but have all monitoring in it disabled.

you're expecting the tool to give valid data, but it's actually producing invalid data by virtue of how it's measuring

Reports of Ryzen 3000 High Idle Voltage Exaggerated, a Case of the "Observer Effect"

With AMD's 3rd generation Ryzen processors finally falling into the hands of PC enthusiasts, many early-adopters are taking to tech communities such as ours, to share their experiences with others. A trend appears to be emerging of users reporting higher-than-usual voltages for these processors...

www.techpowerup.com

 

[Ajay]

Which AGESA version are you using? I found a combination of low LLC(LLC0 or LLC Off) plus negative voltage offset worked really well under AGESA 1.0.0.3ABBA. Not sure on 1.0.0.4 or later since I haven't tried those (no reason to). But before you try messing with voltage offsets, make sure to turn down the default LLC settings.

Thanks, running 1.0.0.4. Guess I’ll just have to see what happens.

 

[Kenmitch]

Thanks, running 1.0.0.4. Guess I’ll just have to see what happens.

I guess you'll have too see how she goes. Both the uEFI's and the actual CPU's tend to have their own personalities and sometimes they clash with one another.

 

[Pandora's Box]

Replaced my Corsair H150i with a Noctua NH-D15. Pump was starting to make a weird noise and I wanted to get more airflow over the VRM's and memory. Replaced the case fans that came with my Fractal Design R6.

Before / After temps using AIDA64 stress test:

CPU (Tctl/tdie) - 88.5C / 80.3C
CPU Die (Average) - 81.2C / 77.5C
CCD1 - 89C / 80.3
CCD2 - 83.3C - 80.8C
Motherboard - 44C / 38C
CPU - 88.9C / 80.4C
VRM - 54C / 45C
Voltage Regulator Loop 1 - 61C / 51C
Voltage Regulator Loop 2 - 54C / 48C
DIM 0 - 50.5C / 42C
DIM 1 - 48.8C / 41.8C
NVME SSD (Idle) 41C / 35C
2080 Ti - 67C / 62C

Edit - I'm an idiot and had the fron intake fans as all exhausting. I re-ran the tests above...Much lower temps now.

 

[Ajay]

@Pandora's Box CPU temps seem a bit high. What is the ambient temp? Are you getting good air flow in case? (Looks like you should be). Are you running overclocked?

 

[Pandora's Box]

@Pandora's Box CPU temps seem a bit high. What is the ambient temp? Are you getting good air flow in case? (Looks like you should be). Are you running overclocked?

I think it's the AIDA64 stress test. Cinebench doesnt break 72C.