Ignition coil or check the spark plugs; you said it takes like 1 or 2 seconds to start, so maybe the plugs are fouled? Also if it takes longer to start it may be due to a fuel related problem such as clogged injectors, broken fuel pressure regulator, or clooge fuel filter or bad fuel pump. The crank posistion sensor may be going out/out of alignment as well.
- Sep 19, 2001
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Originally posted by: galvanizedyankee
Try rebooting it. Be sure and just drive it normally. When you reboot be sure the key is out of the ignition switch, why
I'm not sure. If the light comes on again, go to Autozone and they will pull the codes for free. The code # will tell them what is the problem.
Take deep breaths and don't panic
Ya know, I wonder if this had anything to do with it. I was cleaning the wire to the negative side of the battery and I took it off while the radio was still playing. Could that have been the problem?
Originally posted by: weirdichi
Originally posted by: galvanizedyankee
Try rebooting it. Be sure and just drive it normally. When you reboot be sure the key is out of the ignition switch, why
I'm not sure. If the light comes on again, go to Autozone and they will pull the codes for free. The code # will tell them what is the problem.
Take deep breaths and don't panic
Ya know, I wonder if this had anything to do with it. I was cleaning the wire to the negative side of the battery and I took it off while the radio was still playing. Could that have been the problem?
check the voltage at the battery when the car is running. I'm worried that you may have fried the voltage regulater on the alternator somehow by discconecting the battery while current (the radio) was being drawn from it. Or you may have blown a fuse/shorted a fuse.
Just reboot it with the key out, then drive normally. If the CEL comes on again just have the codes checked.
At this point your chasing your tail. Thats a figure of speech, you don't have a tail.....Do you? Then stop trying to chase it
At this point your chasing your tail. Thats a figure of speech, you don't have a tail.....Do you? Then stop trying to chase it
- Sep 19, 2001
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Originally posted by: TechnoKid
Originally posted by: weirdichi
Originally posted by: galvanizedyankee
Try rebooting it. Be sure and just drive it normally. When you reboot be sure the key is out of the ignition switch, why
I'm not sure. If the light comes on again, go to Autozone and they will pull the codes for free. The code # will tell them what is the problem.
Take deep breaths and don't panic
Ya know, I wonder if this had anything to do with it. I was cleaning the wire to the negative side of the battery and I took it off while the radio was still playing. Could that have been the problem?
check the voltage at the battery when the car is running. I'm worried that you may have fried the voltage regulater on the alternator somehow by discconecting the battery while current (the radio) was being drawn from it. Or you may have blown a fuse/shorted a fuse.
Yay for me. More $$ to burn on my car. *crosses finger* I'll update tomorrow.
- Sep 19, 2001
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Well, the car died when I was on the road today. However, I started it back up right after it died. There was no loss of power at all, and everything sounded and ran like normal. The check engine light was still on though. Like I said, EVERYTHING is still functioning like normal when the car died (except for the dying part of course). The only other difference I noticed was that the RPM needle would jump slowly between 500 and 1000 RPM when I'm in idle/neutral. Also, as mentioned before, it takes 2-3 seconds longer now to start up the car where as before it would start up after I turn the key.
I'll go to autozone and have them check the light and pull up the codes later. Just want to update and see if anybody has any ideas. Thanks again for everybody and their help! Cookies for you all!
I'll go to autozone and have them check the light and pull up the codes later. Just want to update and see if anybody has any ideas. Thanks again for everybody and their help! Cookies for you all!
- Sep 19, 2001
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Well, I checked the ECU LED and I recorded 4 blinks followed by 8 blinks, which leaves me to believe that it's a code 48. However, I can't seem to find ecu codes for this number. Closest I can come to think of is the feul pump, according to this guide (only lists as HONDA, no specific model), it's a LAF (lean air fuel) sensor problem. Any more help? I'm lost as to what I need to do now, or if that's even the correct code definition.
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**UPDATE** 03-31-04
I was stressing all week and today I found out that one of the connectors inside the plug on the distributor was loose and it didn't connect all the way. Hence all the problems I've been having. I connected that sucker, reset the computer, and drove it like a champ. Happy for me! *gives himself a cookie* Thanks for everybody's help! *gives TWO cookies to everybody in this thread!*
I was stressing all week and today I found out that one of the connectors inside the plug on the distributor was loose and it didn't connect all the way. Hence all the problems I've been having. I connected that sucker, reset the computer, and drove it like a champ. Happy for me! *gives himself a cookie* Thanks for everybody's help! *gives TWO cookies to everybody in this thread!*
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