weirdichi
Diamond Member
**UPDATE** 03-31-04
I was stressing all week and today I found out that one of the connectors inside the plug on the distributor was loose and it didn't connect all the way. Hence all the problems I've been having. I connected that sucker, reset the computer, and drove it like a champ. Happy for me! *gives himself a cookie* Thanks for everybody's help! *gives TWO cookies to everybody in this thread!* 🙂
**UPDATE** 03-29-04pm
Well, I checked the ECU LED and I recorded 4 blinks followed by 8 blinks, which leaves me to believe that it's a code 48. However, I can't seem to find ecu codes for this number. Closest I can come to think of is the feul pump, according to this guide (only lists as HONDA, no specific model), it's a LAF (lean air fuel) sensor problem. Any more help? I'm lost as to what I need to do now, or if that's even the correct code definition.
**UPDATE** 03-29-04am
Well, the car died when I was on the road today. However, I started it back up right after it died. There was no loss of power at all, and everything sounded and ran like normal. The check engine light was still on though. Like I said, EVERYTHING is still functioning like normal when the car died (except for the dying part of course). The only other difference I noticed was that the RPM needle would jump slowly between 500 and 1000 RPM when I'm in idle/neutral. Also, as mentioned before, it takes 2-3 seconds longer now to start up the car where as before it would start up after I turn the key.
I'll go to autozone and have them check the light and pull up the codes later. Just want to update and see if anybody has any ideas. Thanks again for everybody and their help! Cookies for you all!
**UPDATE** 03-27-04
Grrr!!! The check engine light stays on when I turn the car on. I checked the wires to the distributor but nothing. Car runs fine since I took it out for a spin around the block. Only other difference I noticed was that when I started the car, it takes 2-3 seconds longer for it to kick over and fully start. Before, it kicked over in about 1 second when I started it. It's been two days since I replaced the distributor and reset the computer. Anybody know what else can be wrong? I'm thinking right now it's just one of the wires to the sensor is messed up or something since I replaced the distributor. Any more help would be appreciated. Thanks!
**UPDATE** 03-25-04 Couple hours later
Reset computer and runs fine now. Thanks for all the help! 🙂
**UPDATE AGAIN** 03-25-04
Car goes to 2.5 RPM and then drops back to 0 (or close to zero) and climbs steadily up when I apply gas. Does this when I'm switching gears and in idle. I just replaced the distributor. Only thing I can think of is that the timing is off on the distributor, but I did go to a shop and have a mechanic check it out. He says the timing is ok. Anybody know anything else that can add to this? Thanks in advance.
I should reword it. When I press on accelerator, the RPM goes up to 2.5, then falls down to zero (or close to zero) and then climbs back up (my foot still on accelerator all this time). It's kinda like a continuous loop of 2.5 to 0 to 2.5 to 0 etc...
**UPDATE** 03-22-04
The shaft inside the distributor is rubbing against the casing to make the squealing noise. I cleaned it out as much as I could with compressed air, but still squeaking. So the question now is, do I lubricate it with oil manually? I went to two different commercial sources for car parts and one said NO, other said YES. Anybody with experience know enough to help me? Thanks in advance.
**UPDATE** 03-18-04
I figured that the squeals came fromt he distributor. Seemed as though it's rubbing up against something or that the little rotor inside is not lubricated enough. I'm not sure if there's anything to clean it out. I blew some compressed air into it and cleaned it out as much as I can but still same noise. Anybody know if I can just slap on some wd-40 or something (I'm assuming no)? I'm gonna call around to see if there are cleaning supplies for distributor also. Thanks for all the help.
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This Friday is the first time I've heard it. I thought it were the belts, but after applying some anti-squeak belt spray, it didn't help. I checked the oil level and it's normal. The squeaks sound like the squeaks from a loose belt, but it's from inside the engine. No engine light comes one. It sounds like that all the time: any gear and in idle with motor running in my driveway. My dad says might be the valves in the engine. Anybody have any ideas?
1991 Integra RS
135k miles
Stored outside in Minnesota winters
EDIT: Car still runs fine even though it squeaks like a hundred mice.
EDIT II: I should say it SQUEALS instead of squeaks. The belts are fine. The noise is coming from the engine, I know that much. I don't think it's the pulleys either because like I said, the squeals are from the engine, not the side with the belts.
Also, I'm not sure how to record that sound since all I have would be a tape recorder and I don't have the necessary equipment to turn the tape recorded sound into a digital format.
EDIT III: I know it's not the belts. Now it seems as though there are some scraping sounds coming from the engine also. 🙁 The sound stays the same in any mode I'm in (driving, switching ears, idling, revving, increased RPM).
The sound is coming from (from what I can tell) inside the engine, the loudest being on the side closest to the dashboard.
Imagine a rectangle as the engine, the top is the headlight direction, right is side, left is left side, and bottom is dashboard direction. I'd draw a pic, but I previewed my previous pic and it isn't formatted right. I'll get a decent drawing when I'm back at home.
EDIT IV: Welp, went to a trusted mechanic of the family and we looked at it and looks like the sounds are coming from the distributor according to him. I find that weird since the car still runs fine with no loss of power at all. He said could be a loose spring inside the distributor. Any more thoughts?
I was stressing all week and today I found out that one of the connectors inside the plug on the distributor was loose and it didn't connect all the way. Hence all the problems I've been having. I connected that sucker, reset the computer, and drove it like a champ. Happy for me! *gives himself a cookie* Thanks for everybody's help! *gives TWO cookies to everybody in this thread!* 🙂
**UPDATE** 03-29-04pm
Well, I checked the ECU LED and I recorded 4 blinks followed by 8 blinks, which leaves me to believe that it's a code 48. However, I can't seem to find ecu codes for this number. Closest I can come to think of is the feul pump, according to this guide (only lists as HONDA, no specific model), it's a LAF (lean air fuel) sensor problem. Any more help? I'm lost as to what I need to do now, or if that's even the correct code definition.
**UPDATE** 03-29-04am
Well, the car died when I was on the road today. However, I started it back up right after it died. There was no loss of power at all, and everything sounded and ran like normal. The check engine light was still on though. Like I said, EVERYTHING is still functioning like normal when the car died (except for the dying part of course). The only other difference I noticed was that the RPM needle would jump slowly between 500 and 1000 RPM when I'm in idle/neutral. Also, as mentioned before, it takes 2-3 seconds longer now to start up the car where as before it would start up after I turn the key.
I'll go to autozone and have them check the light and pull up the codes later. Just want to update and see if anybody has any ideas. Thanks again for everybody and their help! Cookies for you all!
**UPDATE** 03-27-04
Grrr!!! The check engine light stays on when I turn the car on. I checked the wires to the distributor but nothing. Car runs fine since I took it out for a spin around the block. Only other difference I noticed was that when I started the car, it takes 2-3 seconds longer for it to kick over and fully start. Before, it kicked over in about 1 second when I started it. It's been two days since I replaced the distributor and reset the computer. Anybody know what else can be wrong? I'm thinking right now it's just one of the wires to the sensor is messed up or something since I replaced the distributor. Any more help would be appreciated. Thanks!
**UPDATE** 03-25-04 Couple hours later
Reset computer and runs fine now. Thanks for all the help! 🙂
**UPDATE AGAIN** 03-25-04
Car goes to 2.5 RPM and then drops back to 0 (or close to zero) and climbs steadily up when I apply gas. Does this when I'm switching gears and in idle. I just replaced the distributor. Only thing I can think of is that the timing is off on the distributor, but I did go to a shop and have a mechanic check it out. He says the timing is ok. Anybody know anything else that can add to this? Thanks in advance.
I should reword it. When I press on accelerator, the RPM goes up to 2.5, then falls down to zero (or close to zero) and then climbs back up (my foot still on accelerator all this time). It's kinda like a continuous loop of 2.5 to 0 to 2.5 to 0 etc...
**UPDATE** 03-22-04
The shaft inside the distributor is rubbing against the casing to make the squealing noise. I cleaned it out as much as I could with compressed air, but still squeaking. So the question now is, do I lubricate it with oil manually? I went to two different commercial sources for car parts and one said NO, other said YES. Anybody with experience know enough to help me? Thanks in advance.
**UPDATE** 03-18-04
I figured that the squeals came fromt he distributor. Seemed as though it's rubbing up against something or that the little rotor inside is not lubricated enough. I'm not sure if there's anything to clean it out. I blew some compressed air into it and cleaned it out as much as I can but still same noise. Anybody know if I can just slap on some wd-40 or something (I'm assuming no)? I'm gonna call around to see if there are cleaning supplies for distributor also. Thanks for all the help.
=========
This Friday is the first time I've heard it. I thought it were the belts, but after applying some anti-squeak belt spray, it didn't help. I checked the oil level and it's normal. The squeaks sound like the squeaks from a loose belt, but it's from inside the engine. No engine light comes one. It sounds like that all the time: any gear and in idle with motor running in my driveway. My dad says might be the valves in the engine. Anybody have any ideas?
1991 Integra RS
135k miles
Stored outside in Minnesota winters
EDIT: Car still runs fine even though it squeaks like a hundred mice.
EDIT II: I should say it SQUEALS instead of squeaks. The belts are fine. The noise is coming from the engine, I know that much. I don't think it's the pulleys either because like I said, the squeals are from the engine, not the side with the belts.
Also, I'm not sure how to record that sound since all I have would be a tape recorder and I don't have the necessary equipment to turn the tape recorded sound into a digital format.
EDIT III: I know it's not the belts. Now it seems as though there are some scraping sounds coming from the engine also. 🙁 The sound stays the same in any mode I'm in (driving, switching ears, idling, revving, increased RPM).
The sound is coming from (from what I can tell) inside the engine, the loudest being on the side closest to the dashboard.
Imagine a rectangle as the engine, the top is the headlight direction, right is side, left is left side, and bottom is dashboard direction. I'd draw a pic, but I previewed my previous pic and it isn't formatted right. I'll get a decent drawing when I'm back at home.
EDIT IV: Welp, went to a trusted mechanic of the family and we looked at it and looks like the sounds are coming from the distributor according to him. I find that weird since the car still runs fine with no loss of power at all. He said could be a loose spring inside the distributor. Any more thoughts?
