YACT: **UPDATE** HELL YEAH!

[weirdichi]

Yeah.. I forsee $200 outta my pockets also. Hopefully my friend at Acura can give me a discount.

 

[NutBucket]

Originally posted by: weirdichi
Yeah.. I forsee $200 outta my pockets also. Hopefully my friend at Acura can give me a discount.

heh. I forsee that part is about $300 at the dealer, and that's the discounted oem price😉

My distributor should be here wednesday.

 

[weirdichi]

Originally posted by: NutBucket

Originally posted by: weirdichi
Yeah.. I forsee $200 outta my pockets also. Hopefully my friend at Acura can give me a discount.

heh. I forsee that part is about $300 at the dealer, and that's the discounted oem price😉

My distributor should be here wednesday.

Nutbucket's price up there was only $217, and ebay was around $200, although I'm not too trusting of eBay. We'll see if my fried pulls through.

 

[NutBucket]

Originally posted by: weirdichi

Originally posted by: NutBucket

Originally posted by: weirdichi
Yeah.. I forsee $200 outta my pockets also. Hopefully my friend at Acura can give me a discount.

heh. I forsee that part is about $300 at the dealer, and that's the discounted oem price😉

My distributor should be here wednesday.

Nutbucket's price up there was only $217, and ebay was around $200, although I'm not too trusting of eBay. We'll see if my fried pulls through.

The one I gave you is quite reputable. Luckily my dizzy ended up being about $185 shipped. I checked myself and a discounted honda one was about $270 in my case and it wasn't as complete as the one I'm getting.

Seeing as yours lasted 118k you got lucky. This is the second one I've had go from the factory. This one and the one on the previous motor both went at about 50k.

 

[weirdichi]

Hmmm.. $300 sounds about right for the Acura part. 3rd part would be around $200. Or junkyard part for $150? Hahaha. He's in Seattle also, so shipping might just nullify the deal, but it'd still be authentic Acura. We'll have to wait till tomorrow and see. Thanks for all the inputs.

If I could locate what it actually is inside the distributor, then I can maybe just replace that. Is it as difficult to open up a distributor and peek around in there, seeing as how it might be farked anyway?

 

[Vette73]

Originally posted by: weirdichi

Originally posted by: NutBucket

Originally posted by: weirdichi
Yeah.. I forsee $200 outta my pockets also. Hopefully my friend at Acura can give me a discount.

heh. I forsee that part is about $300 at the dealer, and that's the discounted oem price😉

My distributor should be here wednesday.

Nutbucket's price up there was only $217, and ebay was around $200, although I'm not too trusting of eBay. We'll see if my fried pulls through.

If you car is a manual trans you can get one from Autozone for $230 that also has a lifetime warrenty. Being such a common problem make sure you get one that has at LEAST a one year warrenty or longer.

 

[NutBucket]

Originally posted by: weirdichi
Hmmm.. $300 sounds about right for the Acura part. 3rd part would be around $200. Or junkyard part for $150? Hahaha. He's in Seattle also, so shipping might just nullify the deal, but it'd still be authentic Acura. We'll have to wait till tomorrow and see. Thanks for all the inputs.

If I could locate what it actually is inside the distributor, then I can maybe just replace that. Is it as difficult to open up a distributor and peek around in there, seeing as how it might be farked anyway?

It can be done but its pretty tedious. I plan on rebuilding mine after I get the new one installed. BTW, I wouldn't go with one from a junkyard as it's likely to be short lived as well. New is definitely the way to go for this part.

 

[weirdichi]

Nah.. no junked ones. I was just listing my options. I gotta see my options and wait for my tax return. I know that half of it is already going to insurance. Boo!

 

[GalvanizedYankee]

I said Pick-A-Part is an alternative as a 91' anything in the upper mid-west has had a rough life.

I buy from my local NAPA about four times a year. Three years ago he sold me a dist. for my niece's Civic
for $150, new. It was a deep discount and a personal favor 🙂

Note: Never use WD-40 to lube anything but a door hinge 😉

 

[weirdichi]

Such a pain to take the damn thing off when all the screws' head are all rusted or the indentation is all messed up from too much screwing. Any other options I can take to get the bolts and screws removed?

 

[weirdichi]

**UPDATE** 03-22-04
The shaft inside the distributor is rubbing against the casing to make the squealing noise. I cleaned it out as much as I could with compressed air, but still squeaking. So the question now is, do I lubricate it with oil manually? I went to two different commercial sources for car parts and one said NO, other said YES. Anybody with experience know enough to help me? Thanks in advance.

 

[GalvanizedYankee]

Not a clue, I've never done it.

Whatever you use don't use WD-40, it is not a lubricant.

There could be a seal at the top. There most likely is one at the drive end.

 

[NutBucket]

Originally posted by: weirdichi
**UPDATE** 03-22-04
The shaft inside the distributor is rubbing against the casing to make the squealing noise. I cleaned it out as much as I could with compressed air, but still squeaking. So the question now is, do I lubricate it with oil manually? I went to two different commercial sources for car parts and one said NO, other said YES. Anybody with experience know enough to help me? Thanks in advance.

That bearing is shot. You need a new bearing. Barring that, buy a new one!! Its suppose to be a sealed bearing. Lubricating it might quiet it for a few days, that's about it.

 

[weirdichi]

Originally posted by: NutBucket

Originally posted by: weirdichi
**UPDATE** 03-22-04
The shaft inside the distributor is rubbing against the casing to make the squealing noise. I cleaned it out as much as I could with compressed air, but still squeaking. So the question now is, do I lubricate it with oil manually? I went to two different commercial sources for car parts and one said NO, other said YES. Anybody with experience know enough to help me? Thanks in advance.

That bearing is shot. You need a new bearing. Barring that, buy a new one!! Its suppose to be a sealed bearing. Lubricating it might quiet it for a few days, that's about it.

Thanks NutBucket. My friend at Acura can get me a genuine Acura distributor for around $200. I now deem you my official Auto B|tch now. Maybe you'll be upgraded to my PC Tech B|tch if you're good. 😛 *cookie for you*

 

[NutBucket]

Originally posted by: weirdichi

Originally posted by: NutBucket

Originally posted by: weirdichi
**UPDATE** 03-22-04
The shaft inside the distributor is rubbing against the casing to make the squealing noise. I cleaned it out as much as I could with compressed air, but still squeaking. So the question now is, do I lubricate it with oil manually? I went to two different commercial sources for car parts and one said NO, other said YES. Anybody with experience know enough to help me? Thanks in advance.

That bearing is shot. You need a new bearing. Barring that, buy a new one!! Its suppose to be a sealed bearing. Lubricating it might quiet it for a few days, that's about it.

Thanks NutBucket. My friend at Acura can get me a genuine Acura distributor for around $200. I now deem you my official Auto B|tch now. Maybe you'll be upgraded to my PC Tech B|tch if you're good. 😛 *cookie for you*

I know sh!t about PC Tech these days. I couldn't even tell you what the latest and greatest is. I like to think I know Hondas at least🙂

 

[weirdichi]

**UPDATE AGAIN** 03-25-04
Car goes to 2.5 RPM and then drops back to 0 (or close to zero) and climbs steadily up when I apply gas. Does this when I'm switching gears and in idle. I just replaced the distributor. Only thing I can think of is that the timing is off on the distributor, but I did go to a shop and have a mechanic check it out. He says the timing is ok. Anybody know anything else that can add to this? Thanks in advance.

 

[Pepsi90919]

you cannot just start up from 0 RPM flat by just applying the accelerator.

 

[weirdichi]

I should reword it. When I press on accelerator, the RPM goes up to 2.5, then falls down to zero (or close to zero) and then climbs back up (my foot still on accelerator all this time). It's kinda like a continuous loop of 2.5 to 0 to 2.5 to 0 etc...

 

[GalvanizedYankee]

Two respected mechanics that do post here, might recommend rebooting the cars computer since you did change out a major component. (I'm not one of the two 🙂 )

Disconnect the negative battery connection, wait 1/2 hour, reconnect and drive normally for 1/4 hour.
This should reprogram the computer.

Try it, then come back at us. 🙂

 

[weirdichi]

Originally posted by: galvanizedyankee
Two respected mechanics that do post here, might recommend rebooting the cars computer since you did change out a major component. (I'm not one of the two 🙂 )

Disconnect the negative battery connection, wait 1/2 hour, reconnect and drive normally for 1/4 hour.
This should reprogram the computer.

Try it, then come back at us. 🙂

Thanks. Will do. I'll report back in a couple of hours.

 

[weirdichi]

Originally posted by: galvanizedyankee
Two respected mechanics that do post here, might recommend rebooting the cars computer since you did change out a major component. (I'm not one of the two 🙂 )

Disconnect the negative battery connection, wait 1/2 hour, reconnect and drive normally for 1/4 hour.
This should reprogram the computer.

Try it, then come back at us. 🙂

Worked like a charm! Thanks galvanizedyankee! 🙂

 

[GalvanizedYankee]

Your welcome.. Glad it was so simple.

If you still have your old distributer, try to take it apart carefully and see if it is possible to order bearings for it.
There will be a series of numbers on the bearing.
Not that you need to overhaul it but just to practice the drill. That's the easy way to learn.
Plus taking expensive stuff apart thats NFG is fun 🙂

 

[weirdichi]

Grrr!!! The check engine light stays on when I turn the car on. I checked the wires to the distributor but nothing. Car runs fine since I took it out for a spin around the block. Only other difference I noticed was that when I started the car, it takes 2-3 seconds longer for it to kick over and fully start. Before, it kicked over in about 1 second when I started it. It's been two days since I replaced the distributor and reset the computer. Anybody know what else can be wrong? I'm thinking right now it's just one of the wires to the sensor is messed up or something since I replaced the distributor. Any more help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[GalvanizedYankee]

Try rebooting it. Be sure and just drive it normally. When you reboot be sure the key is out of the ignition switch, why
I'm not sure. If the light comes on again, go to Autozone and they will pull the codes for free. The code # will tell them what is the problem.

Take deep breaths and don't panic 😛

 

[ViperMagic]

Go have someone run the codes for that CEL