YACT: test my auto mechanic knowledge

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Ronstang

Lifer
Jul 8, 2000
12,493
18
81
Originally posted by: elektrolokomotive
1995 Mustang V6:
Why does my check engine light come on and random times, and then go off again at some later point?
ex: goes on, a week or two later goes off; a month or two later, goes back on again.

Make sure your gas cap is tight, and that it actually seals as it should. They should check this for your when getting it inspected. Run a code scan with a borrowed scanner from your local auto parts store and look for historical codes.
 

Ronstang

Lifer
Jul 8, 2000
12,493
18
81
Originally posted by: KLin
what would the correct ignition timing be on a 1955 Bel Air Chevrolet, with a 327 cubic-inch engine and a four-barrel carburetor?


0 degrees, or top dead center.
 

myusername

Diamond Member
Jun 8, 2003
5,046
0
0
Originally posted by: flot
Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
ZV
Or it could simply be a randomly sticking thermostat or other foreign debis lodged in the cooling system somewhere. When it overheats, coolant is not moving through the system which is why no hot air. When it is running fine, coolant is circulating and the heater will work properly.
Coolant flows through the heater core regardless of whether or not the thermostat is open on the cars I've dealt with. I've nursed a couple of cars home with thermostats stuck shut by running the heat full-blast.
ZV[/quote]

That's interesting, I don't recall that being the case with mine. I guess it depends on the cooling system layout - also I'll admit I am baffled but my understanding is that a decent # of cars actually regulate whether or not coolant flows through the heater core by some sort of valve?
[/quote]

Correct on the valve. I won't dispute that using the heat full blast can help limp a car home, but if the thermostat is stuck full closed, there's no way that water is circulating the heater core, though there may or may not be some convection.

If it's not the thermostat or an air pocket, it could be the lower radiator hose. It should have a spring in it to keep it from collapsing, but non-OEM hoses don't have this spring.

Trygve should check this first by trying to squeeze the lower radiator hose. If it resists and feels like there is a spring coiled inside it - then move on to burping the system of air or swapping the thermostat. If it collapses/pinches shut when you squeeze it, replace it with one from the dealer.

It's probably not the problem here, but it's the easiest one to check (and fix), so give it a try.
 

bootymac

Diamond Member
Aug 20, 2001
9,597
0
76
Originally posted by: NeoPTLD
Originally posted by: bootymac
Actually I have my own car problem too..

My power mirrors are fubared. I was playing around one day and moved the passenger side mirror all the way down. Left it like that for a few days and when I came back, it didn't work anymore. It can move left and right, but it won't move up and down. I've tried pushing on it while I move the switch around, but nothing works. Driver side is fine also.

Ideas?

Have someone push the control while you listen in carefully at the mirror. If you hear even the slightest sound, I suspect mechanical binding. If not, the motor brush might be resting on a dead spot on the commutator.

Thanks :thumbsup:
 

NeoPTLD

Platinum Member
Nov 23, 2001
2,544
2
81
Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Originally posted by: DaWhim
my AC has problems. in a hot day, the cold air stop after 30-40mins, the other time, it works fine. :(

it is a subie impreza L
If the fan stops too, it's possible that the evaporator is freezing up. If the day is very hot and humid, then the humidity in the air can begin to freeze on the evaporator coils, eventually coating the entire unit with ice. Modern cars have a sensor for this that will shut off the cooling until the evaporator de-ices.

ZV


You're really getting carried away in that this thread isn't help guys with car repair. but rather its TESTING ME on my knowledge.. so answering them yourself isn't helping me.
 

Glavinsolo

Platinum Member
Sep 2, 2004
2,946
0
0
A well kept car that I own drives fine during 50mph or less driving conditions however when accelerating or staying at a consistent speed above 60mph the car will shake. The shake is felt on the steering wheel and it sometimes pulls to the right. However none of these conditions occur when driving below 50mph.

I know the answer btw.
 

iamwiz82

Lifer
Jan 10, 2001
30,772
13
81
Originally posted by: flot
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Mystery squeal coming from the drivers front of a 99 Wrangler. Only occurs between 5-30mph and the pitch does not change with tire rotation or engine rotation. It only shows up after driving more than 5-6 miles, before then it's fine.

I've replaced the wheel bearing, ujoints, removed the front driveshaft, greased everything.


Have you checked the gear oil in the front diff? That's an odd one. Also are you sure the squeal isn't a vacuum leak of some kind? That might display similar symptoms, although it would be likely to change pitch when you stomped on the gas...

Vacuum is what I thought, makes sense that it would happen after warming up. Could a PCV vent make that noise?

Haven't cracked teh diff. in about a year, I really need to.
 

Black88GTA

Diamond Member
Sep 9, 2003
3,430
0
0
OK, I've got another one. This just started yesterday. :|

When starting the car after it's been sitting a while, the motor will seem to run fine in neutral. Put it into drive, and it chugs a bit, and you can feel a very noticeable vibration - maybe like one cylinder isn't firing. It seems like there's more exhaust smoke than normal (white smoke) while this is happening. After driving a few miles, the problem goes away.

All plug wires are on tight.

Any ideas?
 

jlee

Lifer
Sep 12, 2001
48,518
223
106
Originally posted by: Glavinsolo
A well kept car that I own drives fine during 50mph or less driving conditions however when accelerating or staying at a consistent speed above 60mph the car will shake. The shake is felt on the steering wheel and it sometimes pulls to the right. However none of these conditions occur when driving below 50mph.

I know the answer btw.

Alignment and/or wheel balance?
 

jlee

Lifer
Sep 12, 2001
48,518
223
106
Originally posted by: NeoPTLD
Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Originally posted by: DaWhim
my AC has problems. in a hot day, the cold air stop after 30-40mins, the other time, it works fine. :(

it is a subie impreza L
If the fan stops too, it's possible that the evaporator is freezing up. If the day is very hot and humid, then the humidity in the air can begin to freeze on the evaporator coils, eventually coating the entire unit with ice. Modern cars have a sensor for this that will shut off the cooling until the evaporator de-ices.

ZV


You're really getting carried away in that this thread isn't help guys with car repair. but rather its TESTING ME on my knowledge.. so answering them yourself isn't helping me.

Gave up on the MR2, eh? It's also not starting now..but that's another issue. :p
 

sao123

Lifer
May 27, 2002
12,653
205
106
Why does chevrolet's orange coolant fluid clog radiators and heater cores 82% more often than conventional green/yellow coolant.


Whats the difference in the types of transmission fluids...
dexstron 2e vs dextron 3 vs mercon vs type f vs mopar plus vs toyota type T???
 

spidey07

No Lifer
Aug 4, 2000
65,469
5
76
When traveling at 70 MPH down the highway and a huge puff of smoke billows out of the hood followed by constant heavy metal crunching what could be wrong?
 

sao123

Lifer
May 27, 2002
12,653
205
106
Originally posted by: spidey07
When traveling at 70 MPH down the highway and a huge puff of smoke billows out of the hood followed by constant heavy metal crunching what could be wrong?

Theres a 500 pound amazon woman driving...and the car said, "Fvck this!"
 

InlineFive

Diamond Member
Sep 20, 2003
9,599
2
0
My car ('95 Volvo 850 Turbo - factory installed) is having problems generating boost. It currently boosts to about 4Psi even though the manufacturer spec is closer to 9Psi. A car mechanic here said that the cat could be clogging and therefore the ECU is cutting boost. However this also leads me to believe that the O2 sensors may be failing. And sometimes the vacuum is sporadic.

What do you think I should replace first? Cat, vacuum hoses, O2 sensors or intercooler hoses?
 

KLin

Lifer
Feb 29, 2000
30,426
744
126
Originally posted by: Ronstang
Originally posted by: KLin
what would the correct ignition timing be on a 1955 Bel Air Chevrolet, with a 327 cubic-inch engine and a four-barrel carburetor?


0 degrees, or top dead center.

WRONG!! :p

D.A. Jim Trotter: Now, Ms. Vito, being an expert on general automotive knowledge, can you tell me... what would the correct ignition timing be on a 1955 Bel Air Chevrolet, with a 327 cubic-inch engine and a four-barrel carburetor?
Mona Lisa Vito: That's a bullsh!t question.
D.A. Jim Trotter: Does that mean that you can't answer it?
Mona Lisa Vito: It's a bullsh!t question, it's impossible to answer.
D.A. Jim Trotter: Impossible because you don't know the answer!
Mona Lisa Vito: Nobody could answer that question!
D.A. Jim Trotter: Your Honor, I move to disqualify Ms. Vito as an expert witness!
Judge Chamberlain Haller: Can you answer the question?
Mona Lisa Vito: No, it is a trick question!
Judge Chamberlain Haller: Why is it a trick question?
Vinny Gambini: [to Bill] Watch this.
Mona Lisa Vito: 'Cause Chevy didn't make a 327 in '55, the 327 didn't come out till '63. And it wasn't offered in the Bel Air with a four-barrel carb till '64. However, in 1964, the correct ignition timing would be four degrees before top-dead-center.
D.A. Jim Trotter: Well... uh... she's acceptable, Your Honor.
 

Atheus

Diamond Member
Jun 7, 2005
7,313
2
0
Originally posted by: EyeMWing
2002 Saab sedan. Power windows roll down and power locks lock when you turn hard left (I sh!t you not, I have a friend who has this very problem)


This car contains way too much digital logic.
 

DaTT

Garage Moderator
Moderator
Feb 13, 2003
13,295
122
106
I got one, on a TEVES II ABS brake system (using my old 1990 Thunderbird SC as reference), when you depress the brake pedal and the BRAKE and ANITILOK lights flash on the dash, what component should be replaced, and as quick as possible?
 

CycloWizard

Lifer
Sep 10, 2001
12,348
1
81
My brake pedal goes to the floor when it's ~90°F or hotter, but is perfectly fine otherwise. Is it the master cylinder, the break fluid, or other?

1990 Acura Integra, no ABS, ~190,000 miles
 

TheGeek

Golden Member
Jun 6, 2004
1,090
1
0
If i try to brake at high speeds (over 60), even gradually, the brakes and steering wheel shutter. why?