YACT: test my auto mechanic knowledge

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daveymark

Lifer
Sep 15, 2003
10,573
1
0
Originally posted by: spidey07
You'll never get this one...I don't think any mechanic could.

Under WOT engine suffers severe loss of power at 4500 RPM out of 6500 redline, similar to fuel being shut off at around. In fact it feels exactly like the fuel is being shut off. 2004 acura-tl. What could cause this?

(I figured out what it was, darndest thing)

gas cap loose

 

halik

Lifer
Oct 10, 2000
25,696
1
81
Originally posted by: spidey07
You'll never get this one...I don't think any mechanic could.

Under WOT engine suffers severe loss of power at 4500 RPM out of 6500 redline, similar to fuel being shut off at around. In fact it feels exactly like the fuel is being shut off. 2004 acura-tl. What could cause this?

(I figured out what it was, darndest thing)

dirty MAS? lose spark plugs? Dying fuel pump? Dirty fuel filter?
 

bootymac

Diamond Member
Aug 20, 2001
9,597
0
76
Actually I have my own car problem too..

My power mirrors are fubared. I was playing around one day and moved the passenger side mirror all the way down. Left it like that for a few days and when I came back, it didn't work anymore. It can move left and right, but it won't move up and down. I've tried pushing on it while I move the switch around, but nothing works. Driver side is fine also.

Ideas?
 

spidey07

No Lifer
Aug 4, 2000
65,469
5
76
Originally posted by: EyeMWing
Originally posted by: spidey07
You'll never get this one...I don't think any mechanic could.

Under WOT engine suffers severe loss of power at 4500 RPM out of 6500 redline, similar to fuel being shut off at around. In fact it feels exactly like the fuel is being shut off. 2004 acura-tl. What could cause this?

(I figured out what it was, darndest thing)

The car's supposed to do that? :p

Not at 4500 RPM when redline is 6500. I've hit the revlimiter a few times and it feels exactly the same.
:p
 

NeoPTLD

Platinum Member
Nov 23, 2001
2,544
2
81
Originally posted by: DaWhim
my AC has problems. in a hot day, the cold air stop after 30-40mins, the other time, it works fine. :(

it is a subie impreza L

Sounds like safety switch is cutting off the compressor due to excessive or too low of pressure. My first guess is incorrect refrigerant charge amount.
 

NuroMancer

Golden Member
Nov 8, 2004
1,684
1
76
Originally posted by: NuroMancer
Originally posted by: CadetLee
Originally posted by: NuroMancer
Originally posted by: NeoPTLD
Originally posted by: NuroMancer
My engine seems a little rough right above 1500 rpm. So like 1520-1550. Why? :confused:

Under load, with no load or either way?

I've noticed it with no load. Well other then me. I can't remember if I felt it when I had the trailer on the back or not, the engine is a 5.2 V8.

I'm going to jump in and guess plugs/wires..

Ok, I was thinking maybe a clogged injector. But you think I should redo the wires and plugs?

No more advice for me :(
 

NeoPTLD

Platinum Member
Nov 23, 2001
2,544
2
81
Originally posted by: bootymac
Actually I have my own car problem too..

My power mirrors are fubared. I was playing around one day and moved the passenger side mirror all the way down. Left it like that for a few days and when I came back, it didn't work anymore. It can move left and right, but it won't move up and down. I've tried pushing on it while I move the switch around, but nothing works. Driver side is fine also.

Ideas?

Have someone push the control while you listen in carefully at the mirror. If you hear even the slightest sound, I suspect mechanical binding. If not, the motor brush might be resting on a dead spot on the commutator.
 

iamwiz82

Lifer
Jan 10, 2001
30,772
13
81
Originally posted by: halik
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Originally posted by: NeoPTLD
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Mystery squeal coming from the drivers front of a 99 Wrangler. Only occurs between 5-30mph and the pitch does not change with tire rotation or engine rotation. It only shows up after driving more than 5-6 miles, before then it's fine.

I've replaced the wheel bearing, ujoints, removed the front driveshaft, greased everything.

hmmm tough one..
i'll give up. what's the key?

Dunno, I can't figure the stupid thing out either :laugh:

Oh wait, I do have the answer, turn up the radio :p

continous tone, or just squeaking? Also is it rhytmic or random?

Continuous squeal that does not change pitch, its goes eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
 

NeoPTLD

Platinum Member
Nov 23, 2001
2,544
2
81
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Originally posted by: halik
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Originally posted by: NeoPTLD
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Mystery squeal coming from the drivers front of a 99 Wrangler. Only occurs between 5-30mph and the pitch does not change with tire rotation or engine rotation. It only shows up after driving more than 5-6 miles, before then it's fine.

I've replaced the wheel bearing, ujoints, removed the front driveshaft, greased everything.

hmmm tough one..
i'll give up. what's the key?

Dunno, I can't figure the stupid thing out either :laugh:

Oh wait, I do have the answer, turn up the radio :p

continous tone, or just squeaking? Also is it rhytmic or random?

Continuous squeal that does not change pitch, its goes eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Does it sound like an electronic squeal or mechanical squeal?
 

iamwiz82

Lifer
Jan 10, 2001
30,772
13
81
Originally posted by: NeoPTLD
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Originally posted by: halik
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Originally posted by: NeoPTLD
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Mystery squeal coming from the drivers front of a 99 Wrangler. Only occurs between 5-30mph and the pitch does not change with tire rotation or engine rotation. It only shows up after driving more than 5-6 miles, before then it's fine.

I've replaced the wheel bearing, ujoints, removed the front driveshaft, greased everything.

hmmm tough one..
i'll give up. what's the key?

Dunno, I can't figure the stupid thing out either :laugh:

Oh wait, I do have the answer, turn up the radio :p

continous tone, or just squeaking? Also is it rhytmic or random?

Continuous squeal that does not change pitch, its goes eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Does it sound like an electronic squeal or mechanical squeal?

Mechanical.
 

EyeMWing

Banned
Jun 13, 2003
15,670
1
0
Originally posted by: NeoPTLD
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Originally posted by: halik
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Originally posted by: NeoPTLD
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Mystery squeal coming from the drivers front of a 99 Wrangler. Only occurs between 5-30mph and the pitch does not change with tire rotation or engine rotation. It only shows up after driving more than 5-6 miles, before then it's fine.

I've replaced the wheel bearing, ujoints, removed the front driveshaft, greased everything.

hmmm tough one..
i'll give up. what's the key?

Dunno, I can't figure the stupid thing out either :laugh:

Oh wait, I do have the answer, turn up the radio :p

continous tone, or just squeaking? Also is it rhytmic or random?

Continuous squeal that does not change pitch, its goes eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Does it sound like an electronic squeal or mechanical squeal?

Speedometer cable. I have that, too.
 
Oct 9, 1999
15,216
3
81
my car's AC is ON in defrost (move the vent knob to defrost of windshield) mode even though i have turned it off. The AC continues to be on.
this is a 2000 Focus.
 

NeoPTLD

Platinum Member
Nov 23, 2001
2,544
2
81
Originally posted by: TheGoodGuy
my car's AC is ON in defrost (move the vent knob to defrost of windshield) mode even though i have turned it off. The AC continues to be on.
this is a 2000 Focus.

The defrost position is also defog. Air conditioning will condense out water from air, therefore it is useful in reducing fogging. I doubt there's anything wrong with the car. Check your manual.
 

jpprod

Platinum Member
Nov 18, 1999
2,373
0
0
GM 3100 V6

If I sit in traffic, the temp goes up to halfway to overheat levels. I turn on the A/C, the temp drops rapidly. I turn on the heat and the temp doesn't drop. No one can figure it out, even the GM goodwrench folks.

I have the exact same problem with the exact same engine (-97 Lumina, 50k miles). With AC on the temps never climb over half of the gauge, but it goes up to 3/5 and even 3/4 the way in hot weather without AC.

Although my mechanic disagrees with me, I believe that the problem is that the cooling fan fails to ignite early enough. Lumina has two fans, and turning the AC on causes the second fan to come on immediately. Likely cause would be a faulty coolant temperature sensor.
 

Biggerhammer

Golden Member
Jan 16, 2003
1,531
0
0
1995 Mazda protege, basic model, 180k miles (reasonably well maintained, auto tranny, 4-cylinder motor. After the car has warmed up, when you stop they start accelerating again, the engine runs very rough, as though running on 2 cylinders. Spark plugs, wires, rotor and cap are six months old. Various weather types do not change the problem.

I don't KNOW the answer but I have an educated guess in which I have confidence.
 

spidey07

No Lifer
Aug 4, 2000
65,469
5
76
Originally posted by: halik
Originally posted by: spidey07
You'll never get this one...I don't think any mechanic could.

Under WOT engine suffers severe loss of power at 4500 RPM out of 6500 redline, similar to fuel being shut off at around. In fact it feels exactly like the fuel is being shut off. 2004 acura-tl. What could cause this?

(I figured out what it was, darndest thing)

dirty MAS? lose spark plugs? Dying fuel pump? Dirty fuel filter?

That's what I thought. Fuel delivery problems.

Turned out I was a little low on oil. Guess the ECU shut the gas off if it saw a drop in oil pressure.
 

iamwiz82

Lifer
Jan 10, 2001
30,772
13
81
Originally posted by: EyeMWing
No thoughts on the Saab that can't turn left? :p

Faulty wiring that is shorting out when the wires lean to the right (IE left turn) and then move back to their position when straightening out.
 

jlee

Lifer
Sep 12, 2001
48,518
223
106
No thoughts on the MR2's fluctuating idle?

Originally posted by: Biggerhammer
1995 Mazda protege, basic model, 180k miles (reasonably well maintained, auto tranny, 4-cylinder motor. After the car has warmed up, when you stop they start accelerating again, the engine runs very rough, as though running on 2 cylinders. Spark plugs, wires, rotor and cap are six months old. Various weather types do not change the problem.

I don't KNOW the answer but I have an educated guess in which I have confidence.

Ignition coil?
 

NorthRiver

Golden Member
May 6, 2002
1,457
0
0
when you stop they start accelerating again

Who's they?

Sounds like your timing is off.

I've got a Jeep Cherokee that will run normally for a while and then abruptly start overheating. When it starts overheating, if I turn the vent to "hot," cool air comes out. When it's not overheating, turning the vent to "hot" produces hot air. What's your diagnosis and estimated cost-to-repair?

Thermostat, or air bubble in the system is my guess.

2002 Saab sedan. Power windows roll down and power locks lock when you turn hard left

Short in the wires, or loose wire.
 

Black88GTA

Diamond Member
Sep 9, 2003
3,430
0
0
Originally posted by: jpprod
GM 3100 V6

If I sit in traffic, the temp goes up to halfway to overheat levels. I turn on the A/C, the temp drops rapidly. I turn on the heat and the temp doesn't drop. No one can figure it out, even the GM goodwrench folks.

I have the exact same problem with the exact same engine (-97 Lumina, 50k miles). With AC on the temps never climb over half of the gauge, but it goes up to 3/5 and even 3/4 the way in hot weather without AC.

Although my mechanic disagrees with me, I believe that the problem is that the cooling fan fails to ignite early enough. Lumina has two fans, and turning the AC on causes the second fan to come on immediately. Likely cause would be a faulty coolant temperature sensor.
My car has 2 cooling fans as well. One fan will kick on when the coolant reaches a certain temperature. The other fan is set to kick on when the coolant reaches a higher temperature that's bordering on "hot," but runs ALL THE TIME when the A/C is turned on.

I bet you're right - you probably have a bad cooling fan switch or coolant temp sensor (or bad wiring connections) that's not turning the fan on when it should. The fact that the car cools down when the AC is on would tend to give this away, as the AC circuit bypasses the coolant temp sensor / fan switch, and will run the secondary fan regardless of what the sensor is saying.

OR, the fan that's supposed to come on at the lower temp is bad, or has a bad wiring connection, and is not operating at all. When the AC is turned on, the secondary fan starts running and cools the motor down by itself.

Some theories to think about...
 

shortylickens

No Lifer
Jul 15, 2003
80,287
17,081
136
My question is how to identify whether this rear end is a Sterling or a Ford.
Tag on rearend is 355 10 2 2L02 So I assume it has 3.55 gears and is a 10.25" and was manufactured on November 2 1992.
I want to change the gears from the 3.55 to 4.10 to pull a trailer with tractor or dozer on it.
This rearend is in a 93 F250 PU with a C6 tranny. Will the 4.10's make that much difference in pulling or should I go the 4.30?
 

Black88GTA

Diamond Member
Sep 9, 2003
3,430
0
0
Car is 1988 Trans Am GTA, 350 V8 engine.

I'm getting a clunk every time I hit a bump (large or small) from my drivers side front end after doing shocks / struts, strut mounts, and ball joints. Strut mount is solid, with no play in it, struts (new Bilsteins) are on VERY tight, all fasteners were double checked and are on tightly. Nothing is making contact - I checked it all 500 times.

Any ideas what's clunking?