Originally posted by: NeoPTLD
Originally posted by: DaWhim
my AC has problems. in a hot day, the cold air stop after 30-40mins, the other time, it works fine.
it is a subie impreza L
Sounds like safety switch is cutting off the compressor due to excessive or too low of pressure. My first guess is incorrect refrigerant charge amount.
Most likely overcharged.
Replaced those too. They're brand new, with poly bushings, and in solid.
It's driving me nuts.I've recently done extensive work to the front end, but the clunk only showed up after I did struts, mounts, and ball joints.
Originally posted by: Black88GTA
Replaced those too. They're brand new, with poly bushings, and in solid.
I've recently done extensive work to the front end, but the clunk only showed up after I did struts, mounts, and ball joints.
Lower control arm bushings good?
I haven't taken the LCAs out and inspected them.... although they seemed to be in solid when I dropped them to put in the lowering springs. There was no noise after I did those, even though they were stiffer than the old ones. The struts, mounts, and ball joints went in a couple weeks after that, and that's when the noise started.Originally posted by: wischeez
Originally posted by: Black88GTA
Replaced those too. They're brand new, with poly bushings, and in solid.
I've recently done extensive work to the front end, but the clunk only showed up after I did struts, mounts, and ball joints.
Lower control arm bushings good?
Zenmervolt
Elite member
- Oct 22, 2000
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Zenmervolt
Elite member
- Oct 22, 2000
- 24,514
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Your fans aren't turning on when signaled by the temperature sensor. Turning on the A/C forces the radiator fan(s) on at the highest speed setting to keep airflow moving across the condensor, which is mounted in front of the radiator. This, of course, also moves air through the radiator.
ZV
Zenmervolt
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If the fan stops too, it's possible that the evaporator is freezing up. If the day is very hot and humid, then the humidity in the air can begin to freeze on the evaporator coils, eventually coating the entire unit with ice. Modern cars have a sensor for this that will shut off the cooling until the evaporator de-ices.Originally posted by: DaWhim
my AC has problems. in a hot day, the cold air stop after 30-40mins, the other time, it works fine.
it is a subie impreza L
ZV
Zenmervolt
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Stupid question, but did you take the battery out when you did that? If the battery is on that side, it's possible that you didn't clamp it down fully.Originally posted by: Black88GTA
I haven't taken the LCAs out and inspected them.... although they seemed to be in solid when I dropped them to put in the lowering springs. There was no noise after I did those, even though they were stiffer than the old ones. The struts, mounts, and ball joints went in a couple weeks after that, and that's when the noise started.Originally posted by: wischeez
Lower control arm bushings good?Originally posted by: Black88GTA
Replaced those too. They're brand new, with poly bushings, and in solid.
I've recently done extensive work to the front end, but the clunk only showed up after I did struts, mounts, and ball joints.
ZV
Nope. It is on that side though. I disconnected one of the cables, but didn't touch the mountings.Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Stupid question, but did you take the battery out when you did that? If the battery is on that side, it's possible that you didn't clamp it down fully.Originally posted by: Black88GTA
I haven't taken the LCAs out and inspected them.... although they seemed to be in solid when I dropped them to put in the lowering springs. There was no noise after I did those, even though they were stiffer than the old ones. The struts, mounts, and ball joints went in a couple weeks after that, and that's when the noise started.Originally posted by: wischeez
Lower control arm bushings good?Originally posted by: Black88GTA
Replaced those too. They're brand new, with poly bushings, and in solid.
I've recently done extensive work to the front end, but the clunk only showed up after I did struts, mounts, and ball joints.
ZV
Originally posted by: Black88GTA
I haven't taken the LCAs out and inspected them.... although they seemed to be in solid when I dropped them to put in the lowering springs. There was no noise after I did those, even though they were stiffer than the old ones. The struts, mounts, and ball joints went in a couple weeks after that, and that's when the noise started.Originally posted by: wischeez
Originally posted by: Black88GTA
Replaced those too. They're brand new, with poly bushings, and in solid.
I've recently done extensive work to the front end, but the clunk only showed up after I did struts, mounts, and ball joints.
Lower control arm bushings good?
Look at the silver piston portion of the strut and make sure it's straight. I've seen a few that were slightly bent and would make a "clunk" sound as they contacted the strut outer case.
I examined it when the problem started....I held a pen next to it to make sure it was straight even. I also tried jacking up the control arm to compress it a bit while the car was in the air, and see if anything jumped out at me, but it looked perfect.Originally posted by: wischeez
Originally posted by: Black88GTA
I haven't taken the LCAs out and inspected them.... although they seemed to be in solid when I dropped them to put in the lowering springs. There was no noise after I did those, even though they were stiffer than the old ones. The struts, mounts, and ball joints went in a couple weeks after that, and that's when the noise started.Originally posted by: wischeez
Originally posted by: Black88GTA
Replaced those too. They're brand new, with poly bushings, and in solid.
I've recently done extensive work to the front end, but the clunk only showed up after I did struts, mounts, and ball joints.
Lower control arm bushings good?
Look at the silver piston portion of the strut and make sure it's straight. I've seen a few that were slightly bent and would make a "clunk" sound as they contacted the strut outer case.
At this point, I'm almost betting I got either a defective strut, or a bad ball joint.
Originally posted by: Black88GTA
I examined it when the problem started....I held a pen next to it to make sure it was straight even. I also tried jacking up the control arm to compress it a bit while the car was in the air, and see if anything jumped out at me, but it looked perfect.Originally posted by: wischeez
Originally posted by: Black88GTA
I haven't taken the LCAs out and inspected them.... although they seemed to be in solid when I dropped them to put in the lowering springs. There was no noise after I did those, even though they were stiffer than the old ones. The struts, mounts, and ball joints went in a couple weeks after that, and that's when the noise started.Originally posted by: wischeez
Originally posted by: Black88GTA
Replaced those too. They're brand new, with poly bushings, and in solid.
I've recently done extensive work to the front end, but the clunk only showed up after I did struts, mounts, and ball joints.
Lower control arm bushings good?
Look at the silver piston portion of the strut and make sure it's straight. I've seen a few that were slightly bent and would make a "clunk" sound as they contacted the strut outer case.
At this point, I'm almost betting I got either a defective strut, or a bad ball joint.
One or the other would also be my guess. Jack the car up under the control arm on that side,and use some kind of pry bar under the tire to lift and lower the ball joint. If it's bad, you should be able to see, or feel it moving.
I'll have to give that a shot and see what happens. Hell, I've tried everything else. Will do it this weekend - I was gonna install more stuff on it this weekend anyway.Originally posted by: wischeez
Originally posted by: Black88GTA
I examined it when the problem started....I held a pen next to it to make sure it was straight even. I also tried jacking up the control arm to compress it a bit while the car was in the air, and see if anything jumped out at me, but it looked perfect.Originally posted by: wischeez
Originally posted by: Black88GTA
I haven't taken the LCAs out and inspected them.... although they seemed to be in solid when I dropped them to put in the lowering springs. There was no noise after I did those, even though they were stiffer than the old ones. The struts, mounts, and ball joints went in a couple weeks after that, and that's when the noise started.Originally posted by: wischeez
Originally posted by: Black88GTA
Replaced those too. They're brand new, with poly bushings, and in solid.
I've recently done extensive work to the front end, but the clunk only showed up after I did struts, mounts, and ball joints.
Lower control arm bushings good?
Look at the silver piston portion of the strut and make sure it's straight. I've seen a few that were slightly bent and would make a "clunk" sound as they contacted the strut outer case.
At this point, I'm almost betting I got either a defective strut, or a bad ball joint.
One or the other would also be my guess. Jack the car up under the control arm on that side,and use some kind of pry bar under the tire to lift and lower the ball joint. If it's bad, you should be able to see, or feel it moving.
Replaced my front brake rotors/calipers/shoes and ended up with a pass. front wheel that squeaks when the brake is NOT applied after less than 1k miles. I scuffed up the pad (which had a small groove correspondant to the odd ridge on the rotor (which only ran half the circumference of the rotor) and reapplied grease and made it go away for another 1k miles... I would go get the rotor sanded down, but suspect that won't help me fix the problem, just delay it.
My front passenger brake caliper mounting bracket (i.e. steering knuckle) has some "gouges" where the sides of the calipers clip into it. That particular caliper is a tight squeeze to line up/install, but it does fit back together. The driver's side caliper mounting bracket has much smaller "gouges".
Assuming these gouges are not where the bracket has worn down over time (seems unlikely), they are where someone has previously used an angle grinder to get the calipers to fit, rather than properly replacing a tweaked axle, ball joint, steering knuckle, etc.
Do caliper brackets wear down? Do they need replacing at that point? Is it normal procedure to grind the bracket to allow the caliper to fit, or should it work with no modification?
My front passenger brake caliper mounting bracket (i.e. steering knuckle) has some "gouges" where the sides of the calipers clip into it. That particular caliper is a tight squeeze to line up/install, but it does fit back together. The driver's side caliper mounting bracket has much smaller "gouges".
Assuming these gouges are not where the bracket has worn down over time (seems unlikely), they are where someone has previously used an angle grinder to get the calipers to fit, rather than properly replacing a tweaked axle, ball joint, steering knuckle, etc.
Do caliper brackets wear down? Do they need replacing at that point? Is it normal procedure to grind the bracket to allow the caliper to fit, or should it work with no modification?
Or it could simply be a randomly sticking thermostat or other foreign debis lodged in the cooling system somewhere. When it overheats, coolant is not moving through the system which is why no hot air. When it is running fine, coolant is circulating and the heater will work properly.
Have you checked the gear oil in the front diff? That's an odd one. Also are you sure the squeal isn't a vacuum leak of some kind? That might display similar symptoms, although it would be likely to change pitch when you stomped on the gas...
There are a LOT of wires up by the steering column. It would not be unreasonable for one to snag on a zip tie or something under there and be getting tugged on if you turn the wheel far enough. x10 if he had an aftermarket alarm installed.
Alternately, it is very possible that there is a wire somewhere along the path that is rubbing against a piece of sharp metal. When you make the sharp turn, the body of the car might flex just enough to ground that out and cause the above.
It would be interesting to see if it happens at slow speeds/sitting still (ie turning the wheel all the way to the left in a parking lot) or if it is based strictly on inertia (ie a slow swooping turn at high speeds)
does braking affect the noise? that's the speed range that my brake problem squeaks at. Mine is intermittent due to uneven wear, but the pitch is constant.
Zenmervolt
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Coolant flows through the heater core regardless of whether or not the thermostat is open on the cars I've dealt with. I've nursed a couple of cars home with thermostats stuck shut by running the heat full-blast.
ZV
Or it could simply be a randomly sticking thermostat or other foreign debis lodged in the cooling system somewhere. When it overheats, coolant is not moving through the system which is why no hot air. When it is running fine, coolant is circulating and the heater will work properly.[/quote]Coolant flows through the heater core regardless of whether or not the thermostat is open on the cars I've dealt with. I've nursed a couple of cars home with thermostats stuck shut by running the heat full-blast.
ZV[/quote]
That's interesting, I don't recall that being the case with mine. I guess it depends on the cooling system layout - also I'll admit I am baffled but my understanding is that a decent # of cars actually regulate whether or not coolant flows through the heater core by some sort of valve?
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