Changing your oil too often can be bad for you engine as well.
Read this....you'll be surprised how good mobil 1 is of course there's lots of factors involved, but a UOA is the best way to determine what you OCIs (oil change intervals) should be.
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Which oil filter to buy?
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Changing your oil too often can be bad for you engine as well.
Read this....you'll be surprised how good mobil 1 is of course there's lots of factors involved, but a UOA is the best way to determine what you OCIs (oil change intervals) should be.
batmang
Diamond Member
i posted a reply, and it didnt take, lol.
well, what i meant to say is, i dont think is ok to wait 7k miles, it just seems too long to me without an oil change. so for an average person, they would change their oil twice a year? that just doesnt seem right to me.
i change mine every 3k just cause i know its best for my car's setup. i run 91 octane only, cause thats what my setup requires. it takes alot more stress then a normal engine. high rated camshafts are the main reason. i wouldnt worry about changing every 3k if i were running some stock b16 camshafts or even gsr camshafts. but its 3k for me. whatevery you do is your own preference! and i live in tucson arizona, so yes, 3k!
well, what i meant to say is, i dont think is ok to wait 7k miles, it just seems too long to me without an oil change. so for an average person, they would change their oil twice a year? that just doesnt seem right to me.
i change mine every 3k just cause i know its best for my car's setup. i run 91 octane only, cause thats what my setup requires. it takes alot more stress then a normal engine. high rated camshafts are the main reason. i wouldnt worry about changing every 3k if i were running some stock b16 camshafts or even gsr camshafts. but its 3k for me. whatevery you do is your own preference! and i live in tucson arizona, so yes, 3k!
cavemanmoron
Lifer
I like AC/Delco
and Purolater,
and Motorcraft filters.
and Purolater,
and Motorcraft filters.
Zenmervolt
Elite member
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!
Oh dear heavens that's funny!
I really hope you're not serious.
The best value for the money are WIX/DANA filters, also sold under the NAPA Gold brand.
ZV
Zenmervolt
Elite member
Get that damn fvcking stupid music off your website. Fvcking annoying as hell.
ZV
MercenaryForHire
Lifer
165hp/103tq on that is "built"? Newsflash - you'll lose to me in the family minivan. :laugh:
I don't even want to know how much money you blew on that, but I'll wager you could have built for boost for equal or less.
- M4H
Rock Hydra
Diamond Member
I bought a Fram oil filter from Wal Mart. I don't know much about them, so I'll see how it is.
ElMonoDelMar
Golden Member
I agree with you here. I'm just doubtful that any normal driver could have an OCI of 10K mi.
QuitBanningMe
Banned
Exactly what I was thinking.
For those cars, the Toyota ones are not bad, though not wonderful.
If you are willing to spend a little more, the K&N are good. The flow is good, and the filtration is reasonable. Mobil 1 filters will give you better filtration, but less flow than the K&N.
Heck, even Motorcraft is a nice choice (and you can buy an adapter). Something as cheap as a FL-820S or FL-400S still gives you very good filtration, a silicon ADV (in the right place, IMHO), and solid end caps.
If you are willing to spend a little more, the K&N are good. The flow is good, and the filtration is reasonable. Mobil 1 filters will give you better filtration, but less flow than the K&N.
Heck, even Motorcraft is a nice choice (and you can buy an adapter). Something as cheap as a FL-820S or FL-400S still gives you very good filtration, a silicon ADV (in the right place, IMHO), and solid end caps.
QuitBanningMe
Banned
I did (actually I said nothing wrong with it) and although you seem to have become the resident "car guy" I doubt you have ever actually seen a connecting rod. Not to long ago you were "learning"* and now you are the expert in all things automotive?
Just saying....since I need to be beat with a rod.
referring to an engine thread about two years ago.
It wasn't you that I saw recommend Fram, but I'll bite.
So, you actually support the idea of putting cardboard into your engine?
As for the second part? WTF? I think you're thinking of someone else man.
I didn't know anything about computers, let alone Anandtech "not long ago" when I first "started learning". 😛
Edit: And just incase someone takes that to mean I'm like 50 years old, I'm 24.
I've probably rebuilt more engines than 98% of ATOT combined. FYI, I collect and restore antique single cyinder small engines, and have been for the last 11 years.
Toastedlightly
Diamond Member
I use whatever is cheapest. Usually some brand other than FRAM, but FRAM are nice w/ the rubber grippie.!
Heisenberg
Lifer
lol
😀
myusername
Diamond Member
I use Pure One, which is an up-model purolator. Got excellent reviews at bobistheoilguy. I use mobil1, but due to most of my driving being 1 mi. trips, I can't go much past 5k, as I'm already looking at a TBN of 2.5 at that point.
Eli:
My understanding is the Fram X2 uses metal endcaps, plus has extra reinforcement for the media. It has the same mediocre anti drainback valve and bypass as the rest of the Fram junk though.
I really don't keep up with Fram's product line, since I'm partial to others. Is this no longer the case?
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