Which oil filter to buy?

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TwoBills

Senior member
Apr 11, 2004
734
0
76
So, do we all agree now? Fram sucks. Napa gold/wix give you the best bang for the buck? That ok w/you Eli? Quitbanning me? OK then.

Oh, yeah. Nice ride, Batmang.
 

EyeMWing

Banned
Jun 13, 2003
15,670
1
0
Originally posted by: MercenaryForHire
Originally posted by: batmang
... i have a built honda. yes a honda, its not rice at all. click the link in my signature " the batmobile ", its a website dedicated to my car.

165hp/103tq on that is "built"? Newsflash - you'll lose to me in the family minivan. :laugh:

I don't even want to know how much money you blew on that, but I'll wager you could have built for boost for equal or less.

- M4H

Newsflash, you'll lose to me in my family minivan.

Yes. That thing.
 

QuitBanningMe

Banned
Mar 2, 2005
5,038
2
0
Originally posted by: TwoBills
So, do we all agree now? Fram sucks. Napa gold/wix give you the best bang for the buck? That ok w/you Eli? Quitbanning me? OK then.

Oh, yeah. Nice ride, Batmang.

I wouldn't say sucks but it will work
 

Cawchy87

Diamond Member
Mar 8, 2004
5,104
2
81
Originally posted by: SuperSix
Originally posted by: 0roo0roo
and the lucky thing about camrys.. filter right on top. easy as pie to replace.

Unless it's a V6.. They SUCK! :|

Why? It gets me to school and it's good on gas. That's all I ask for.
 

JDub02

Diamond Member
Sep 27, 2002
6,209
1
0
Originally posted by: batmang
the only reason i change mine every 3k, is cause i have a built honda. yes a honda, its not rice at all. click the link in my signature " the batmobile ", its a website dedicated to my car.

my oil is basically black by the time 3k miles rolls around, and my oil level gets pretty low by then, built honda motors... love oil. so much that your basically dry by 5k miles. 9k redlines do that.

i think you need to come back when you learn what a "built" motor is.

according to your own website, the only thing that's not bolt on are the camshafts.

thanks for playing, please try again.
 

JDub02

Diamond Member
Sep 27, 2002
6,209
1
0
Originally posted by: batmang
Originally posted by: TechnoKid
Originally posted by: batmang
the only reason i change mine every 3k, is cause i have a built honda. yes a honda, its not rice at all. click the link in my signature " the batmobile ", its a website dedicated to my car.

my oil is basically black by the time 3k miles rolls around, and my oil level gets pretty low by then, built honda motors... love oil. so much that your basically dry by 5k miles. 9k redlines do that.

You aren't very informed about oil, in my opinion, if you think color is the indicator of when to change oil.

has eli chimed in yet?


honda motors with mods like i have, EAT oil, its been proven many times. and i know about this, i own a honda.


For the record, none of that should make the car eat oil. You have problems.
 

JDub02

Diamond Member
Sep 27, 2002
6,209
1
0
IMO, Fram's are OK if you're going to be changing your oil every 3k miles with a stock motor. So they don't flow the best or filter the best, but they work. My grandfather uses Fram because they're inexpensive .. he's never lost a motor.

I usually go with a Purolator PureOne, but lately I've been having the local NAPA garage change the oil for me. I'm getting lazy.
 

QuitBanningMe

Banned
Mar 2, 2005
5,038
2
0

Then the engine isn't "built".

Also there is no reason for it to be using oil at the rate you say.

My engine is "built" and if it loses a drop I haven't noticed.

Doesn't say a lot for honda.[/quote]

no offense,... but coming from someone who swears by fram filters....[/quote]

yeah well....my engine started as a mild 130hp and produces 400+hp now (haven't dynoed this one yet)
It is "built". Although I don't "swear" by fram filters it has one on it now and I'm not worried at all.

By built I mean:
L28
N42 block with all casting marks removed and coated
LD28 crank (knifed and polished)
L24 rods peened
89mm forged pistons (coated)
P90 head (ported and polished)
ARP mains, bolts and studs
upgraded valve train
high volume oil pump
aluminum flywheel
everything balanced
mallory dizzy/ high output coil
high flow billet fuel rail
440 injectors
megasquirt
custom plenum
T3-T04e turbo
intercooler
custom piping, headers, exhast
....
.....
.....
Currently running 15lb boost

About all I can get out of this engine. I have an RB but not sure I want to swap because of parts availability.
 

Eli

Super Moderator | Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
50,419
8
81
Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe

Then the engine isn't "built".

Also there is no reason for it to be using oil at the rate you say.

My engine is "built" and if it loses a drop I haven't noticed.

Doesn't say a lot for honda.

no offense,... but coming from someone who swears by fram filters....[/quote]

yeah well....my engine started as a mild 130hp and produces 400+hp now (haven't dynoed this one yet)
It is "built". Although I don't "swear" by fram filters it has one on it now and I'm not worried at all.

By built I mean:
L28
N42 block with all casting marks removed and coated
LD28 crank (knifed and polished)
L24 rods peened
89mm forged pistons (coated)
P90 head (ported and polished)
ARP mains, bolts and studs
upgraded valve train
high volume oil pump
aluminum flywheel
everything balanced
mallory dizzy/ high output coil
high flow billet fuel rail
440 injectors
megasquirt
custom plenum
T3-T04e turbo
intercooler
custom piping, headers, exhast
....
.....
.....
Currently running 15lb boost

About all I can get out of this engine. I have an RB but not sure I want to swap because of parts availability.
[/quote]nice. :D

I dunno...

I just don't trust oil-soaked cardboard to withstand 60+ PSI.

Please understand that, even if your oil filter has a complete meltdown, you aren't going to "lose an engine".

Don't quote me on this, but I would be willing to bet money that you could run no oil filter, and change your oil every 3,000 miles.. and your engine would see a nominal life. That is, not extraordinarily short(no oil changes ever), but not terribly long either. Maybe 150,000 miles for a solid engine.

There are so many variables, there's just no way to tell. But using quality filters along with a quality oil certainly isn't going to hurt anything. Since he seems to care, that means he wants to eliminate those variables from his mind. So he's come to ask others' opinion on the matter.

Based largely on real-world facts, Fram's oil filters suck[when compared to others available at nearly the same cost].
 

feralkid

Lifer
Jan 28, 2002
16,606
4,699
136
This site names Mobil 1, Pure One and Amsoil as best.


There are few filters that really get the tiniest (and most damaging) particles out.

Interesting to note that many common filters have poor drainback valves. Position of oil filter on engine makes this more (or less) of an issue; e.g. if your filter is not slanted downward or inverted, this would not matter.
 

Eli

Super Moderator | Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
50,419
8
81
Originally posted by: feralkid
This site names Mobil 1, Pure One and Amsoil as best.


There are few filters that really get the tiniest (and most damaging) particles out.

Interesting to note that many common filters have poor drainback valves. Position of oil filter on engine makes this more (or less) of an issue; e.g. if your filter is not slanted downward or inverted, this would not matter.
Yep.. And on the Camry, the filter is at a 45º angle upside down....
 

Insane3D

Elite Member
May 24, 2000
19,446
0
0
Originally posted by: SuperSix
Originally posted by: Fmr12B
Fram's are garbage. Their flow rates are atrocious.
Some of the best filters are made by Motorcraft.
Best for the money is the K&N

What orifice are you pulling this info out of?

Motorcraft have horrible flow ratings, Fram has decent flow but bad media and anti-drainback valves, and K&N, while they flow good, are not worth the extra $$$, they don't flow any worse or better than most decent "cheaper" filters.

VERY interesting info here:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb...p?ubb=forum;f=6

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

So, how about some links on how bad Motorcraft filters are? From everything I've heard, they are very good.

Oh, and your first link with "very interesting info" doesn't work...


Edit:

Just did a search in the BITOG forums, and everything I've been reading so far rates Motorcraft as excellent filters. The FL1A I use is supposed to be one of the best...
 

Apex

Diamond Member
Oct 11, 1999
6,511
1
71
www.gotapex.com
Originally posted by: Insane3D
Originally posted by: SuperSix
Originally posted by: Fmr12B
Fram's are garbage. Their flow rates are atrocious.
Some of the best filters are made by Motorcraft.
Best for the money is the K&N

What orifice are you pulling this info out of?

Motorcraft have horrible flow ratings, Fram has decent flow but bad media and anti-drainback valves, and K&N, while they flow good, are not worth the extra $$$, they don't flow any worse or better than most decent "cheaper" filters.

VERY interesting info here:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb...p?ubb=forum;f=6

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

So, how about some links on how bad Motorcraft filters are? From everything I've heard, they are very good.

Oh, and your first link with "very interesting info" doesn't work...


Edit:

Just did a search in the BITOG forums, and everything I've been reading so far rates Motorcraft as excellent filters. The FL1A I use is supposed to be one of the best...

No, they're not bad. I think you misread their post. They're very good filters. They're low flowing / high filtratration though. There's often a balance between filtration and flow. It's relatively difficult to do high flow highly efficient filtration while holding the size of the filter constant (ignoring, for this example, increasing the number of pleats in the filter material).
 

Insane3D

Elite Member
May 24, 2000
19,446
0
0
Originally posted by: Apex
Originally posted by: Insane3D
Originally posted by: SuperSix
Originally posted by: Fmr12B
Fram's are garbage. Their flow rates are atrocious.
Some of the best filters are made by Motorcraft.
Best for the money is the K&N

What orifice are you pulling this info out of?

Motorcraft have horrible flow ratings, Fram has decent flow but bad media and anti-drainback valves, and K&N, while they flow good, are not worth the extra $$$, they don't flow any worse or better than most decent "cheaper" filters.

VERY interesting info here:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb...p?ubb=forum;f=6

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

So, how about some links on how bad Motorcraft filters are? From everything I've heard, they are very good.

Oh, and your first link with "very interesting info" doesn't work...


Edit:

Just did a search in the BITOG forums, and everything I've been reading so far rates Motorcraft as excellent filters. The FL1A I use is supposed to be one of the best...

No, they're not bad. I think you misread their post. They're very good filters. They're low flowing / high filtratration though. There's often a balance between filtration and flow. It's relatively difficult to do high flow highly efficient filtration while holding the size of the filter constant (ignoring, for this example, increasing the number of pleats in the filter material).


He said "horrible" flow ratings. Horrible strikes me as a being a pretty clear negative...no?

From everything I read on Bob's forums, they are good, and made by Purolator. The FL1A is a particularly good rated one mostly do to the large amount of filter material there is inside...

:)
 

Ready

Golden Member
Jan 16, 2003
1,830
0
0
wtf you people use oil filters?
That explains where that black fume is coming from