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Where Are The Gigabyte GA-N680SLI-DQ6 Motherboards?

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Mr. Beagle, What is your motherboard temp? Do you think my temp of 52 C is too hot? If not, I may still consider a new case because I'm tired of hearing these 80 mm fans spin.
 
So far F5E bios is working great. My QX6700 temps are down. But that might be because of the air conditioning is on right now. I noticed there is a new option of "Multithreading CPU: enable or disable." I don't see why anyone would want to disable that. Anyways I will be doing some more overclocking to really see how well this new bios performs. Thanks Gary!
 
Originally posted by: Gary Key
Here it is -

F5E

I will have an update for the rev2 board tomorrow. This BIOS (F5E) has the latest NV code in it for the 1333 CPUs and Quad Core updates.
Click to expand...


This is in a .rar format.Can you post this as the required .bin file?
I dont' know how to convert it to such.Thanks
 
Originally posted by: TheBeagle
Good Afternoon Mr. Mjrtoo.

I believe that the advice offered by Mr. Ozoneman is correct. In all honesty, 80mm exhaust case fans just don't cut it any more. The 80mm ones are OK for intake fans, since most cases will usually get sufficient fresh air intake even with that size, but the exhaust function is another story. The suggestion of an Antec 900 is a good one, in fact, Gigabyte makes a superb Aurora case as well.

The key to thermal case control is being able to efficiently and quickly vent all that dissipated heat. The larger the fan, the less RPM it needs to move significant volumes of air, thus the less noise it creates. It is air volume, not speed that you want. Since you already have a good PSU, you should select a case that comes w/o a PSU (unless you want a spare PSU).

I use non-thermal sensing Nexus fans for intake, and thermal sensing Antec fans for exhaust. That combo seems to work the best for me. I know swapping a case might not be the mod that you were looking forward to undertaking, but it will give you the best result, and also protect your valuable components from thermal failure. Good luck with that project! Best regards. TheBeagle 🙂

PS. If that PSU cooling fan is running at high speed from the moment you turn on your rig, then the sensor might be defective/stuck. You indicated that it ran normally when you first installed it, until you put some stress on it running FEAR. It might have advanced its speed and somehow cannot revert to a slower speed when it doesn't have a load on it. DO NOT OPEN that PSU box up!!! It has a warranty sticker on it, and if the sticker is compromised, you can kiss a warranty return goodbye!! If it indeed runs full tilt all the time, then it needs to be RMA'd back to the manufacturer or supplier (if it's still within the return period for the supplier). It is NEVER a good idea to mess with defeating the thermal/load sensors within a PSU. If the supplier will take it back, get a 850 unit as a replacement if you can. TheBeagle
Click to expand...

I decided to go with the Lian Li PC-A10 case, I have really liked my current case and the removable motherboard tray is really something I can no longer live without. I'll let you know how it works out next weekend probably.

 
Originally posted by: Subhuman25
Originally posted by: Gary Key
Here it is -

F5E

I will have an update for the rev2 board tomorrow. This BIOS (F5E) has the latest NV code in it for the 1333 CPUs and Quad Core updates.
Click to expand...


This is in a .rar format.Can you post this as the required .bin file?
I dont' know how to convert it to such.Thanks
Click to expand...

Well I had it ocnverted to a .bin file and tried to flash using my USB thumbdrive.Managed to get to flash screen where the file showed,BUT it wouldn't flash,messaging that the "file size is incorrect"
back to square 1.Can we please have the BIOS file in a ready to use .bin state?
I don't understand why it's posted as a .rar file to begin with.And having to jump through hoops of fire while whistling Stairway to Heaven and juggling 10 running chainsaws just to convert the damn thing .... I'm about ready to tear hair out arrrggghhh

 
Originally posted by: bka4u2c
Use WinRAR to unzip the file, converting won't work as you've pointed out.
Click to expand...

Obviously I had to use WinRAR,but that doesn't give you a .bin file.
Can't things jsut be simple and posted as the usable file needed to begin with?
Why do things have to be made complicated?

 
Originally posted by: Subhuman25
Originally posted by: bka4u2c
Use WinRAR to unzip the file, converting won't work as you've pointed out.
Click to expand...

Obviously I had to use WinRAR,but that doesn't give you a .bin file.
Can't things jsut be simple and posted as the usable file needed to begin with?
Why do things have to be made complicated?
Click to expand...

Finally figured it out.Doesn't need to be in .bin format. DOH!

Thanks for everyones help letting me know that <insert serious sarcasm>
 
Originally posted by: Subhuman25
Obviously I had to use WinRAR,but that doesn't give you a .bin file.
Can't things jsut be simple and posted as the usable file needed to begin with?
Why do things have to be made complicated?
Click to expand...

Sorry, I misunderstood what you posted. Are you using the "End" key to go into the bios update or booting from the floppy and using the flash program? I usually just press the "End" during POST and then select "update bios from drive" or something like that. I'm not home right now to verify the exact wording. I've never had success with updating a beta BIOS booting from floppy.
 
For me it was the exact opposite. I never had success updating from a USB drive. Only a floppy worked. I extracted it from the .rar archive and it became a .bin file. Then I put that file onto a formatted floppy disk and pressed F8 once I was in the BIOS. Then "update from drive." It really isn't complicated at all.
 
I've had success using my USB thumbdrive with this MB and the last 2 MB's as well.Yes,it's the END key that get's you into QFLASH at POST screen.My issue was not knowing BIOS files did NOT have to be a .bin format.Every BIOS I've ever flashed had been using a .bin file.
Just for chits and giggles I tried flashing it using the file as it was unarchived (.F5e extension) and voila',it worked!
Now it would be nice to know what all improvements the F5e offers.
 
what is the highest fsb people are getting with this board and q6600's (preferably revision 2, or revision 1 with newest bios)? I am building a new system at the end o fht week, beginging of next week and this is one of the boards I am looking at. Will be on high end water (pa120.3, fuzion), so I dont want to end up being board limited, but i also dont have realy high end ddr2, so I dont want to be ram limited on a p35 board.

I have done a search of this thread for q6600 results, and see results all over the place which is why I am askign again (early on it seems some people were limited to about 315-335, but now its more like 400, though I dont know what bios/revision those limits were with).
 
Originally posted by: Subhuman25
I've had success using my USB thumbdrive with this MB and the last 2 MB's as well.Yes,it's the END key that get's you into QFLASH at POST screen.My issue was not knowing BIOS files did NOT have to be a .bin format.Every BIOS I've ever flashed had been using a .bin file.
Just for chits and giggles I tried flashing it using the file as it was unarchived (.F5e extension) and voila',it worked!
Now it would be nice to know what all improvements the F5e offers.
Click to expand...

Look at the top of this page. Gary states that "This BIOS (F5E) has the latest NV code in it for the 1333 CPUs and Quad Core updates."

Oh yeah the bios file is not a bin file, its is "N680SDQ6AT.F5e" It just ends in F5e. This goes for the other bios files from this motherboard. the F4 bios file ended in ".F4" But your problem is already solved so I will stop talking about it.
 
Need some help. Just built a sister system to mine except using a Q6600, Thermaltake 1000watt, and EVGA 8800 GTX.

Got it all installed and when I powered up for the 1st time got momentary power to the board then powered off. Lights up and fans spin for about 1 or 2 seconds then it powers off. To get it to power on again I needed to turn off the power supply switch and then turn it on again. The same thing happens each time.

Any ideas where to start looking first.
 
Did you check to make sure all your mobo standoffs in the case are where they need to be? (Lined up with the motherboard screw holes). You don't have an extra standoff under the board that may be touching it, do you?
 
Good Evening Everyone.

I hope that you all are enjoying the F5e BIOS revision that Mr. Gary provided. Cheers for Mr. Gary!!

Mr. Mfarbman: The situation you briefly described is characteristic of a power switching problem. First thing to do is ensure that ALL the power cables are connected, i.e., the 24 pin plug, the 8 pin power connector, the 4 pin molex connector, and any power connector that might be required by the video card.

Next, ensure that the slip-on connectors to the various HD, RES, PWR, Pwr Switch, etc are correctly on their respective pins. If that doesn't help, look for a pinched wire from the on-off switch to the MB. Be sure that all those connector plugs are fully seated into their respective sockets. Let us know how you make out on all of that. Best regards. TheBeagle 🙂
 
Thanks for your feedback Beagle, Ozoneman and Jkresh. I think that the most probable source of my problem may be the HD, RES, PWR, front panel switches. I may have plugged them in wrong and I won't know until tomorrow when I can check them. I did not connect the 4 pin molex since I am running only one video card, but will try that as well.

I will post the outcome tomorrow.
Thanks again. I find this forum to be most helpful.
 
mfarbman,

I always have to think about the HD, RES, PWR, front panel switches when I plug them on to the board. It is so easy to plug them in the wrong way. On my board the white wire of each pair of wires is the negative and the colored wire of the pair is the positive. The connector on the wire also has a little triangle on the positive side.
 
Originally posted by: mfarbman
Need some help. Just built a sister system to mine except using a Q6600, Thermaltake 1000watt, and EVGA 8800 GTX.

Got it all installed and when I powered up for the 1st time got momentary power to the board then powered off. Lights up and fans spin for about 1 or 2 seconds then it powers off. To get it to power on again I needed to turn off the power supply switch and then turn it on again. The same thing happens each time.

Any ideas where to start looking first.
Click to expand...

Make sure your RAM is sent the correct voltage, what RAM and what board revision are you using?


 
So far no luck. Board not shorting on stand-offs. All connectors plugged in correctly and seated. It seems that it is either the motherboard or power supply. Any way to tell which to check first.
 
mjrtoo, are you overclocking your q6600 an dif so what kind of results are you getting? My q6600 shipped today and I need to order a board, either this, the dfi, or the evga (basically decided against p35 though I know it would simplify some things).
 
Originally posted by: mjrtoo
If you could post some throughput results with your card justin, I would appreciate it. Cost isn't really an issue, but I do weigh cost vs. gain quite heavily. I'm not one of those 2 percenters...(no offense if you are)
Click to expand...

I think Tom's Hardware did a guide on this, however, I think they only compared the controllers with each other, not against a built-in chipset controller.

The results start on the following:

http://www.tomshardware.com/20...mb-servers/page10.html

Personally, I picked up a Promise SuperTrak EX8350 (they tested using the 4350, the 8350 can have 8 drives instead of just 4). This gives me room to setup a second 4 disk array, and migrate the data from the old array to the new one to allow for upgrades of diskspace (and complete replacing of the old array without worrying how in the world I will transfer the files over).
 
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