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Where Are The Gigabyte GA-N680SLI-DQ6 Motherboards?
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Still no luck. Get power to all the fans, CPU and Case. EVGA 8800GT fan DOES NOT GET POWER. Tried the video card in both PCIe slots no power to fan. CD Drive does not open, light just blinks on and off.
Checked the power supply voltage and it is putting out the right amount. So is it the video card or the mother board? Any ideas.
Checked the power supply voltage and it is putting out the right amount. So is it the video card or the mother board? Any ideas.
TheBeagle
Senior member
Good Evening Mr. Mfarbman.
Since you have arrived at this point in the proceedings, I would suggest that you adhere to the old adage of going from the lesser to the greater. You should first rule in or out the video card. Any PCIe video card will suffice; in fact, the simpler the better. Swap the video card and see what happens.
If that doesn't solve the problem, the you should consider a PSU swap. Again, less is more. It is only necessary to have the 24 pin and 8 pin connectors attached from the test PSU unit to the MB, along with at least 1 DVD and floppy (unless, of course you shut off those devices in the BIOS Setup). Give that a try. I once had a severed power on/off line that was broken up inside the case front face, and I didn't see it until I had disassembled the whole PC looking for the source of the problem.
If that doesn't work, then it is possible that you have a faulty PSU. I would then contact the seller of the PSU and see if you can get a swap unit. Let us know how you make out on these steps. Best regards. TheBeagle 🙂
Since you have arrived at this point in the proceedings, I would suggest that you adhere to the old adage of going from the lesser to the greater. You should first rule in or out the video card. Any PCIe video card will suffice; in fact, the simpler the better. Swap the video card and see what happens.
If that doesn't solve the problem, the you should consider a PSU swap. Again, less is more. It is only necessary to have the 24 pin and 8 pin connectors attached from the test PSU unit to the MB, along with at least 1 DVD and floppy (unless, of course you shut off those devices in the BIOS Setup). Give that a try. I once had a severed power on/off line that was broken up inside the case front face, and I didn't see it until I had disassembled the whole PC looking for the source of the problem.
If that doesn't work, then it is possible that you have a faulty PSU. I would then contact the seller of the PSU and see if you can get a swap unit. Let us know how you make out on these steps. Best regards. TheBeagle 🙂
Blazer7
Golden Member
Mr mfarbman, I?m not familiar with your PSU but the only thing left to check on it is the main power cord. If the main power cord is 20+4pin type you should check that the 4pin segment is fitted the right way. I have seen a couple of cases where the 4 pin was not oriented properly and that caused the mobos to malfunction. I know this is a long shot but it is the last thing I can think of and it shouldn?t be much trouble to have a look at it.
Mr.'s Blazer7 and Beagel, thanks for the suggestions. What is baffling me is that I got the board to power up and stay on, but I would think that even if the video card is bad the CD Drive bay would open since it had power. The 24 pin is a single plug so I don't think that is it. I ran a voltage meter on all of the power cords from the power supply and they are all within spec. That leads me to believe that the most probable culprit is the motherboard.
As far as a problem with the case goes I think if it were case related (severed or pinched line) I would not have been able to turn it on and have it stay running.
This system is at work so tomorrow I going to try a simple Matrox PCIe video card from my wife's system to see if in fact it is the video card.
I guess that my first build of this system (with a 8600GTS, E6600 and Seasonic 700w PSU) went so smooth I thought this one would be a piece of cake. That system posted first time I pushed the power switch and has been flawless since.
I will update tomorrow.
As far as a problem with the case goes I think if it were case related (severed or pinched line) I would not have been able to turn it on and have it stay running.
This system is at work so tomorrow I going to try a simple Matrox PCIe video card from my wife's system to see if in fact it is the video card.
I guess that my first build of this system (with a 8600GTS, E6600 and Seasonic 700w PSU) went so smooth I thought this one would be a piece of cake. That system posted first time I pushed the power switch and has been flawless since.
I will update tomorrow.
OK. I replaced the video card and it is getting power. System still does not post. I notice that the case power switch light and the floppy drive light blink on/off at a regular interval. So I am stilll at the point to narrow it down to PSW or mobo. I will see if I can get my hands on a power supply and try that first. If I were a betting man I would put my $$$ on a bad mobo.
Fallen Kell
Diamond Member
Did you install the properly drivers? What OS are you using? XP, Vista, Vista64? It really sounds like a driver issue to me. Go download the latest chipset drivers from Nvidia for your OS, (15.01 for me), and see if that fixes your problem.
Rev2 Board BIOS update, sorry about the delay, just wanted to make sure it worked.
rev2 board 680i BIOS
rev2 board 680i BIOS
Well I finally identified the problem. It was not the video card. After ruling that out I picked up an inexpensive PSU (575w) and popped it in. Bingo, the mobo powered up. Connected all the devices and loaded the OS without a hitch. Funny I would have thought that a 1000w Thermaltake at $300 plus would have been more reliable than a $40 off brand. I plan on ordering a Seasonic 700w to replace it.
Glad I didn't bet that it was the motherboard.
Glad I didn't bet that it was the motherboard.
TheBeagle
Senior member
Good Evening Mr. MFarbman.
That's very good news concerning your identification of your bootup problem, but not so great news about your failed PSU. May I suggest that you immediately either return the PSU to the selling source (presuming you are still within the return window) or to ThermalTake for a replacement PSU. Quite frankly, although a DOA PSU is possible, it is a rare occasion for such a reason to be the cause of PC failure. I am reasonably sure that ThermalTake will immediately honor their warranty on the PSU (and if they don't, your colleagues will collectively roast their chestnuts on this and many other Forums!).
In any event, it was not the MB or your selection of other components that let you down, and that's a good sign. All things electrical and mechanical will eventually fail (some sooner than others). Good luck with the remainder of the build for your sister! TheBeagle 😀 :beer:
That's very good news concerning your identification of your bootup problem, but not so great news about your failed PSU. May I suggest that you immediately either return the PSU to the selling source (presuming you are still within the return window) or to ThermalTake for a replacement PSU. Quite frankly, although a DOA PSU is possible, it is a rare occasion for such a reason to be the cause of PC failure. I am reasonably sure that ThermalTake will immediately honor their warranty on the PSU (and if they don't, your colleagues will collectively roast their chestnuts on this and many other Forums!).
In any event, it was not the MB or your selection of other components that let you down, and that's a good sign. All things electrical and mechanical will eventually fail (some sooner than others). Good luck with the remainder of the build for your sister! TheBeagle 😀 :beer:
justinburton
Member
Thermaltake has been great with me. I RMA'd a three year old 500W power supply. That particular PS was at EOF (end of life) so they sent me a brand new 600Watt one. It wasn't modular though but it was worth more than my original by far.
I am thinking of using Thermalright Ultra 120 eXtreme on the GA-N680SLI- DQ6 rev 2 motherboard. Has anyone used this CPU cooler and if so how did you deal with the heat plate on the back of the board. I know that with some coolers the plate must be removed which does not look too difficult.
Blazer7
Golden Member
I got my E6850 yesterday and just finished with the basics. My rig works fine but haven?t had the time to fine tune it yet. Here are some initial scores compared to what I was getting with my E6600.
Current setup : Rev1 board ? F5b BIOS ? E6850@stock ? 4GB (2 x G.Skill F2-8500PHU2-2GBHZ) linked @ 5:4 (1047.6) ? mem timings 4-3-3-5-2T@2.275V ? ASUS 8800GTX@stock ? nV Forceware 158.22 ? WinXP SP2 ? Everest 3.50.761 ? Sandra 2007.5.11.35.
E6600 E6850
-----------------------------------------------------
Sandra Integer 5735 7096 +23.73%
Sandra Floating 5748 7106 +23,63%
Everest Read 7251 9344 +28.86%
Everest Write 4828 6042 +25.14%
Everest Copy 5533 6839 +23.60%
Everest Latency 55.8 52.0 -6.81%
Super PI 32M 20?.00? 16?.22? -18.90%
3DMark05 14999 17978 +19.86%
3DMark06 10219 11263 +10.22%
P.S.
That?s for the Kapt?n
Current setup : Rev1 board ? F5b BIOS ? E6850@stock ? 4GB (2 x G.Skill F2-8500PHU2-2GBHZ) linked @ 5:4 (1047.6) ? mem timings 4-3-3-5-2T@2.275V ? ASUS 8800GTX@stock ? nV Forceware 158.22 ? WinXP SP2 ? Everest 3.50.761 ? Sandra 2007.5.11.35.
E6600 E6850
-----------------------------------------------------
Sandra Integer 5735 7096 +23.73%
Sandra Floating 5748 7106 +23,63%
Everest Read 7251 9344 +28.86%
Everest Write 4828 6042 +25.14%
Everest Copy 5533 6839 +23.60%
Everest Latency 55.8 52.0 -6.81%
Super PI 32M 20?.00? 16?.22? -18.90%
3DMark05 14999 17978 +19.86%
3DMark06 10219 11263 +10.22%
P.S.
That?s for the Kapt?n
I just wanted to let you know that I had downloaded and installed this BIOS up. After I did, it would not read my OCZ Platinum SLI certified 8500 memory at the correct speed. Instead of reading it at 1066, with SLI detection on, it read it at 1006. Since it had read it correctly under the FA BIOS, and rather than increase memory voltage, and to make sure that there had not been a problem with my memory, I reverted back to the FA BIOS, and when I did, it read it correctly at 1066. There may be a problem with this BIOS update, FBb, so I suggest that it be used with caution.:frown:
Fallen Kell
Diamond Member
I think that is correct, but someone running XP can tell you better then I. I am running Vista64 Ultimate....
Blazer7
Golden Member
Here is a good one. ASUS claims that all ASUS 680 based boards (Striker, Striker Extreme, P5N32-E SLI) are penryn ready. This is definitely good news for all of us. Now lets hope that Gigabyte will keep up (for their sake also).
http://www.asus.com/products.aspx?l1=3&l2=11&l3=397
http://www.asus.com/products.aspx?l1=3&l2=11&l3=397
justinburton
Member
On an SLi note, a guys claims to have hacked some Nvidia drivers to use on both AMD and Intel chipsets. Check out this article:
http://www.fudzilla.com/index....=view&id=2380&Itemid=1
http://www.fudzilla.com/index....=view&id=2380&Itemid=1
TheBeagle
Senior member
Good Evening Everyone.
Well, my new Q6600 (G0) arrived yesterday, and I installed it, then uninstalled it, then re-installed it, and finally got it working in the N680i board. The N680i board had a real problem with updating the CPU lookup tables and accepting the new Q6600. I had to reflash both the primary and secondary BIOS to the F5e version to get the board to settle down. What a pain in the butt!
However, this proc seems to have a ceiling of 334 x 9 = 3.0 GHz as a top end. Of course, that's basically equal to a QX6850 chip at stock speed (albeit about $800 cheaper). I'd be interested to hear what settings that you folks are using on a Rev 1 board for this proc. At the present time, no matter what voltage increases (within reasonable limits) that I apply to the memory, chip or other components, it will not POST past the first few lines at anything above 334 FSB, and requires a clearing of the CMOS to be able to work with it further.
So, if someone has a legitimate "magic" setting, I'd like to hear about it. Thanks. TheBeagle.
P.S. BTW, the E6850 proc that was in there would bootup and run like a charm at 400 x 9 = 3.6 GHz all the time. So the board is capable of substantially higher CPU clock speeds, but the Quad-Core is quite a different animal. TheBeagle 😕
Well, my new Q6600 (G0) arrived yesterday, and I installed it, then uninstalled it, then re-installed it, and finally got it working in the N680i board. The N680i board had a real problem with updating the CPU lookup tables and accepting the new Q6600. I had to reflash both the primary and secondary BIOS to the F5e version to get the board to settle down. What a pain in the butt!
However, this proc seems to have a ceiling of 334 x 9 = 3.0 GHz as a top end. Of course, that's basically equal to a QX6850 chip at stock speed (albeit about $800 cheaper). I'd be interested to hear what settings that you folks are using on a Rev 1 board for this proc. At the present time, no matter what voltage increases (within reasonable limits) that I apply to the memory, chip or other components, it will not POST past the first few lines at anything above 334 FSB, and requires a clearing of the CMOS to be able to work with it further.
So, if someone has a legitimate "magic" setting, I'd like to hear about it. Thanks. TheBeagle.
P.S. BTW, the E6850 proc that was in there would bootup and run like a charm at 400 x 9 = 3.6 GHz all the time. So the board is capable of substantially higher CPU clock speeds, but the Quad-Core is quite a different animal. TheBeagle 😕
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