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Where Are The Gigabyte GA-N680SLI-DQ6 Motherboards?

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Word I believe bka4u2c, was sometime in the next two weeks. Gary posted something about this on how the late release had something to do with Nvidia or something.
 
I have a problem, personal problem. I can't stop spending money on my PC. I just replaced my Thermaltake 850Watt power supply for a Thermaltake 1200 Watt monster. I have a watt-o-meter to measure wattage. I was hitting 710Watts at load. The 850W PS being 87% efficient, only goes to 740W. That was too close for comfort. I feel more stable now. Once that new F5 bios comes, my life will be complete. 😀
 
Originally posted by: justinburton
I have a problem, personal problem. I can't stop spending money on my PC. I just replaced my Thermaltake 850Watt power supply for a Thermaltake 1200 Watt monster. I have a watt-o-meter to measure wattage. I was hitting 710Watts at load. The 850W PS being 87% efficient, only goes to 740W. That was too close for comfort. I feel more stable now. Once that new F5 bios comes, my life will be complete. 😀
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Mr justinburton, It is good to know that I'm not the only one with this personal problem 😀. Unfortunately my life won't be complete with the F5 BIOS as penryn is on the way, and that goes for you too :laugh:

keep it up :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 
Good Evening Everyone.

I'm running Vista 64 (Ultimate) and those NV drivers from 7/2/07 are really just a patch job by NV until the complete driver set is fully stabilized and ready for prime time. Now don't get me wrong on this, the Version 15.01 of the NV drivers is OK and runs just fine. However, our boards have some unique features, i.e., Teaming and TCP/IP Acceleration which can only be accessed through driver implementation. The WinXP folks have been able to enjoy those features for a while now, but the Vista users are still relegated to the back of the truck.

Anyway, there is a hot rumor out that Gigabyte has a new beta BIOS for the N680i board, version F5e. Maybe our colleague Mr. Gary will be able to shed some light on that item, and possibly be able to share a source for it.

On a personal note, I recently ordered a new Q6600 proc, and was expecting to get one of the newer G0 versions shipped to me. No such luck! Just in case anyone is interested, here's the precise nomenclature on Q6600 procs so you can distinguish the old version (B3) from the newer version (G0).

The basic Intel Part number is: BX80562Q6600. However, this item now comes in two (2) flavors. The original version (B3) is designated by an additional five digits that are added to that basic Intel Product Code number, resulting in: BX80562Q6600SL9UM. This older version is also known as Stepping Code B3. I do not believe that anyone will be very happy with the older (B3) version on a GA-N680SLI-DQ6 board, since the B3 version has significant OC limitation, uses a fair bit more power, and produces an equally bit more heat.

On the other hand, the newer version (G0), which uses considerably less power, doesn?t produce as much heat, and is very overclockable, is Intel Product Code number: BX80562Q6600SLACR. This newer version is known as Stepping Code G0. This is the version that you will likely want.

You should also be aware that Intel is presently dumping their old inventory of Q6600 (B3) processors, and a lot of vendors have been given very good pricing on those older units. Make damn sure that you know what you are buying before you put you hard earned money down on one of the beauties, since you're not going to be a happy camper when the B3 version is shipped to your door. At the present time, the ONLY major distributor that I know of that in fact has G0 procs in stock is ClubIT.com, and they are advertising them that way, and selling them for $295.00 USD.
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I sent back the B3 proc that I received and ordered another one from a different vendor, ClubIT.com. I have bought stuff from them in the past, and they are very reputable and offer extremely good customer service. I'll let you all know how that works out when I get it hopefully next week. I hope everyone has a nice weekend. Best regards. TheBeagle 😀 :beer:
 
Good Early Morning Everyone.

Mr. Evanscnce: Hold your pants on (if you can), I'm sure we'll hear more about the new BIOS in a day or so.

Mr. Blazer: I don't know about a delay, per se, but I did hear that Gigabyte has indeed implemented the new NV code into this latest beta BIOS, and that there's at least one switch in the BIOS Setup that looks directly at single core versus multiple cores on the proc that you have inserted in the board.

One might presume that such an item in the Setup routine is related to allocation of certain MB resources, etc, which would make sense, since the new NV code was supposed to address those types of issues to enable a smooth transition to the 1333 FSB, especially when it comes to Quad-Cores. Of course, a Q6600 (G0) is likely to act much like a QX6850 when it's OCed (except for the unlocked multiplier), and I think that's the inherent upgrade to the new BIOS revision. But, as always, we shall see.

It will really be interesting to see if Penryn is going to be compatible with our N680i board. I don't recall ever seeing that claim of Penryn compatibility being touted by Gigabyte for our N680i board, like they have for more recent boards, i.e. GA-P35-DQ6. But I also believe that it will only take a BIOS revision to do so, since it physically will be the same, and should be able to be adapted to our boards by BIOS revision. On the other hand, MB manufacturers don't seem too eager to give exceptional longevity to their boards, since that has a way of cutting down on future repeat sales of newer items - LOL. We shall see on that one as well. Have a nice weekend everyone. TheBeagle 😀 :beer:

 
Mr Beagle, I'm afraid that it only makes sense that the official BIOS will be delayed for at least another week or two. The guys in Taiwan will definitely need this time in order to get some feedback out of the release of the beta ver and make the final changes to the official F5.

The implementation of the new NV code is definitely good news as we will at last get official support for the new quads. Right now most if not all of Gigabyte's P35 based boards have the new quads in their cpu support list and that goes for some of the older boards like the GA-965P-DQ6 rev 3.3. There are also other 680 based boards out there that are known to work with the new quads just fine.

http://www.anandtech.com/cpuch...ts/showdoc.aspx?i=3042

As for penryn, nVidia claims that it will be compatible with the 680 boards with just a BIOS upgrade. Note the last paragraph in the first page here :

http://www.anandtech.com/cpuch...howdoc.aspx?i=3038&p=2
 
Good Afternoon Mr. Blazer.

You're probably right on the slight delay issue. I was trying to keep a positive attitude on the whole thing. As far as Penryn support for the N680i boards is concerned, I had completely forgotten about that reported statement to Anand. I was focusing rather on the propaganda that Gigabyte itself posts on its web sites, etc, and I hadn't recalled an official media tout by them concerning Penryn support. However, I certainly trust Anand to get the straight scoop, and Gigabyte would be fools to renege on that statement to Anand, since he's likely to royally roast their chestnuts over making false promises if they don't deliver!

I guess my evaluation of only a need for a BIOS update was correct, and it's equally good that your keen eyes and stellar memory bank caught that report from Anand. We'll have a good time sorting all this out in the months ahead. I just hope that Gigabyte gets the new NV coding right the first time. We sure don't need another F4 fiasco. Best regards. TheBeagle 😀 :beer:
 
Originally posted by: TheBeagle
Hello Again Mr. Mjrtoo.

Sounds like you may have solved your own problem - Congrats! As the saying goes, "necessity is the mother of invention!" You just might be having a momentary sag in power in your rig that's just enough to contribute to this problem as well. It's ALWAYS a good idea to size your PSU to an excess power factor of at least a +30%. That way, as time goes by, and the capacitors, etc start to age, you will still have plenty of capacity for your system.

BTW, PC Power & Cooling was just very recently bought out by the OCZ folks. We shall see whether or not the absolutely sterling quality of the PCP&C equipment maintains its integrity now that a big player has taken them over.

I used to buy only PCP&C stuff, but their prices got way out of line with their products (I understand that it was all made in the USA by union folks and all that) but a few of the other manufacturers have really stepped up and brought some real innovations to the table. I now use ThermalTake ToughPower PSUs in all my stuff, and recommend them to others as well. The ToughPower modular cabling system is hard to beat, and you can get units from 650W up to 1200W, the construction and components are top notch, and they don't inflate their specs.

Anyway, let us know how you make out with your investigation of this pesky issue. Have a nice evening. TheBeagle 😀 :beer:
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Well, I received my new Thermaltake 750w power supply (I cancelled my PC power upon your suggestion), and I was able to lower my DDR voltage back to where it is 'supposed' to be.

My only complaint is that in my Lian-Li case, I have to take out the Blow Hole fan to get the power supply connectors to fit. Also, it's a bit loud in my system I thought the fan was load based. It was quiet on initial startup, but after starting up the game FEAR, it's been on pretty loud, even though I've stopped playing for some time now.

Any ideas on this one?

 
Hello Mr. Mjrtoo.

The 140mm fan speed in that PSU is driven by load and temp. Depending on how warm/hot the air supply rising from within the case might be, that could be adding to the thermal threshold, thus causing the PSU to initiate a higher fan speed to maintain cooling within the PSU itself, which is not totally the function of the PSU cooling elements themselves. It is VERY important to have good quality venting case fans on the rear, and even the case roof, to fully vent all that thermal energy that is being dissipated within the rig. Some cases and their equipment literally become mini-ovens when you crank up the unit.

I didn't specifically recall what all components you have in your rig, but in mine I have the N680i board, 4 x 1GB 1066 Crucial Ballistix memory sticks, E6850, 8800GTX, 2 x 150GB Raptors, 4 x Seagate 750GB, 3 x DVD-RW, Zip 750, floppy/card reader, ATI 650 TV tuner, 2 x PCIe cards, and a USR modem. I use a ToughPower 850 PSU, and it never gets much above warm, and the fan doesn't make much noise.

But, on the other hand, I don't run a game like FEAR, full-throttle probably like you might do, which is going to run power demands up against the wall damn quick. The fact that the PSU didn't crap out under that load is a credit to its integrity. However, quite frankly, and with all due respect, you can't reasonably expect to draw that kind of power from a PSU, and not have it exercise it's onboard cooling components - EXCEPT if you "Super-Size" the PSU, so that any "normal to above normal" load is just a mere blip on the radar screen of such an oversized PSU, and doesn't create enough of a load to cause that kind of a monster PSU to even break a sweat. In that case, I'm talking about something in the 1000 to 1200 range.

Now if you have dual video cards, especially 8800GTX models, then you are likely drawing between 150 and 175 watts for each of those cards alone, plus all the other stuff in your case. If you're anywhere near that level of wattage draw, then you may have undersized your PSU, if you want it to run near silent.

Aside from that, I don't have enough info to offer any other advice. Let us know what all the wattage draws are for your rig, and maybe we can help you further. But in any event, don't be disappointed, you made a good choice by purchasing a ToughPower 750 PSU. Best regards. TheBeagle 🙂
 
I have the F5E BIOS, it appears this one will be the final for F5, do you want it now or want to wait on the final later this week? 😀
 
Originally posted by: Gary Key
I have the F5E BIOS, it appears this one will be the final for F5, do you want it now or want to wait on the final later this week? 😀
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Reminds me of Elmer, Daffy and Bugs; "Would you like to shoot me now or shoot me later?" Shoot me now! Shoot me now!

Seriously I'd like to give it a shot now, I'm curious to see if the OS will do a full shut down.
 
Good Evening Mr. Gary.

It looks like a sort of "Feeding Frenzy" has started, so I'd suggest you post a link for the F5e BIOS, before some of our colleagues go into meltdown. Are we correct to presume that this is the one that has the latest NV code embedded into it? Please advise.

Many, many thanks from everyone! Your professional dedication to this Forum and especially this Thread is much appreciated by all. Best regards. TheBeagle 😀 :beer:
 
Here it is -

F5E

I will have an update for the rev2 board tomorrow. This BIOS (F5E) has the latest NV code in it for the 1333 CPUs and Quad Core updates.
 
Hi Beagle,

I think my problem is that I'm using an Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro and it's pretty tall, only about 1" away from the PSU itself. I'm using a Lian-Li Mid Tower, and when I remove the side and 'feel' inside, it's not very hot at all.

The case has 2 x 80mm fans on the front pulling air by my drives, and an 1 x 80mm fan on the rear of the case. I had to remove the top 80mm fan to get this power supply installed.

I'm running the Q6600 (B3 model) with 1 pair of TWINX 1GB DDR2.

My drive array is 2 x 75GB Raptor RAID 0, 1 x 75GB Raptor, 1 x 300GB Caviar, and also 1 x 8800GTS 320 MB, 1 x Plextor Premium, 1 x Plextor PX-760a, 1 x PCI/IDE controller.

From what I calculate, if everything was at 100% load it would draw less than 750 Watts.

I'm wondering if there is a way to disable the temp sensor in the PSU, might not be a great idea, but it sure sounds like the PSU fan is on high all the time.
 
You might consider a new case. Those cases with the 80mm fans were for hardware that we had 3 years ago. I have a similar case (Cooler Master ATCS). It has the same number, size and placement of fans. My mobo temp is 52 degrees C. I think that is a little warm too. I'm considering updating my case for my newer hardware. Most cases today have 120 mm fans. My son has an Antec 900 case that is wonderful. That is what he is using for his Gigabyte 680i, 8800ultra system. It has a 200 mm fan on the top, 2 120s on the front, and a 120 on the back. He can add another 120 to the side if he wants. The fans have 3 speeds so you can quite the case when you aren't under load. He runs the fans mostly on the middle position and the case is not very loud. If you lower the fans to the low setting, you can't hear them.

So think about a new case for that great hardware. You not only will be cooler, it won't be as loud.
 
Good Afternoon Mr. Mjrtoo.

I believe that the advice offered by Mr. Ozoneman is correct. In all honesty, 80mm exhaust case fans just don't cut it any more. The 80mm ones are OK for intake fans, since most cases will usually get sufficient fresh air intake even with that size, but the exhaust function is another story. The suggestion of an Antec 900 is a good one, in fact, Gigabyte makes a superb Aurora case as well.

The key to thermal case control is being able to efficiently and quickly vent all that dissipated heat. The larger the fan, the less RPM it needs to move significant volumes of air, thus the less noise it creates. It is air volume, not speed that you want. Since you already have a good PSU, you should select a case that comes w/o a PSU (unless you want a spare PSU).

I use non-thermal sensing Nexus fans for intake, and thermal sensing Antec fans for exhaust. That combo seems to work the best for me. I know swapping a case might not be the mod that you were looking forward to undertaking, but it will give you the best result, and also protect your valuable components from thermal failure. Good luck with that project! Best regards. TheBeagle 🙂

PS. If that PSU cooling fan is running at high speed from the moment you turn on your rig, then the sensor might be defective/stuck. You indicated that it ran normally when you first installed it, until you put some stress on it running FEAR. It might have advanced its speed and somehow cannot revert to a slower speed when it doesn't have a load on it. DO NOT OPEN that PSU box up!!! It has a warranty sticker on it, and if the sticker is compromised, you can kiss a warranty return goodbye!! If it indeed runs full tilt all the time, then it needs to be RMA'd back to the manufacturer or supplier (if it's still within the return period for the supplier). It is NEVER a good idea to mess with defeating the thermal/load sensors within a PSU. If the supplier will take it back, get a 850 unit as a replacement if you can. TheBeagle
 
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