Track Car Suggestions

[EXCellR8]

Would like to get in some serious track time next year; preferably in a decent car that will reach 100mph in under 10 seconds. I had a KA Silvia but I didn't want to hoon it around after I was done refurbing the engine bay; ended up selling it off.

Car suggestions would be helpful, and I don't want to start a brand war or anything... that's what all automotive only forums are for after all.

Was thinking of spending only two thousand, but I'd swing for something nicer if it was a good deal. Drivetrain doesn't have to be anything in particular, but obviously needs to be a stick shift; bonus points for turbo.

I don't know if I'll be doing any actual competitive racing other than trial runs, but the car doesn't need to be insured or road legal, just relatively safe. I was thinking about an MX-5 but the NA models are really aged now and I'm pretty tall so I'm not sure it would be practical.

Just no European money pits... I want to spend more time on the track than in the repair bay fabbing up parts all day long.

Subaru can be tricky with head gaskets and former abusive owners, but Nissan, Toyota, or Mitsubishi and Mazda might be a better pick. Ideally, I just want something that runs well and isn't a Honda. Civics are great, but they are hard to move without lots of proper work and tuning, minus the S2K and RSX S but those are out of price range.

 

[jlee]

You want to spend $2k and get a car that will do 0-100 in 10 seconds....?

Unless you have a lot of track time, a stock Miata is a great place to start.

 

[monkeydelmagico]

Where dreams collide with reality....

On your budget I would suggest Lemons or Chump car. You will get as much track time as your hooptie will endure.

 

[agent00f]

Would like to get in some serious track time next year; preferably in a decent car that will reach 100mph in under 10 seconds. I had a KA Silvia but I didn't want to hoon it around after I was done refurbing the engine bay; ended up selling it off.

Car suggestions would be helpful, and I don't want to start a brand war or anything... that's what all automotive only forums are for after all.

Was thinking of spending only two thousand, but I'd swing for something nicer if it was a good deal. Drivetrain doesn't have to be anything in particular, but obviously needs to be a stick shift; bonus points for turbo.

I don't know if I'll be doing any actual competitive racing other than trial runs, but the car doesn't need to be insured or road legal, just relatively safe. I was thinking about an MX-5 but the NA models are really aged now and I'm pretty tall so I'm not sure it would be practical.

Just no European money pits... I want to spend more time on the track than in the repair bay fabbing up parts all day long.

Subaru can be tricky with head gaskets and former abusive owners, but Nissan, Toyota, or Mitsubishi and Mazda might be a better pick. Ideally, I just want something that runs well and isn't a Honda. Civics are great, but they are hard to move without lots of proper work and tuning, minus the S2K and RSX S but those are out of price range.

If you're serious about learning to drive on such a paltry budget you're basically looking at rental karts. Not that it's bad thing since a run in a shifter or even rotax will ensure nothing you can drive legally on public roads will ever feel exciting again.

 

[Zivic]

You want to spend $2k and get a car that will do 0-100 in 10 seconds....?

Unless you have a lot of track time, a stock Miata is a great place to start.

miata has to be the best thing that is even remotely close to your budget. 2 grand barely buys you decent brakes let a lone a decent car

 

[EXCellR8]

I paid $1800 for my s13, granted it was a KA and I had to convert to manual... if it was the SR20DET it would have been a $6500 car easy. People go nuts over those motors... obviously.

Like I said, $2000 for the car and it doesn't need to pass inspection. I am in the new england rust belt, so it's easy to talk people down on higher mileage cars. I'm not going to go searching country wide for a gem that I might wreck or may catch fire or something.

I have my BRZ, and I already know how to drive a track, but unless you're sponsored or on a team with several drivers the track insurance is not even remotely practical. Plus, if I wreck a car on the track in a beater I just brush myself off, curse a few times, and put it back on the trailer home.

Lemons is a complete joke. You spend $500 on a car and then several thousand making it as safe as possible with full roll cage, relocated fuel cell, frame rails, plexiglass, and whatever else it needs to be track ready.

 

[HarryLui]

BRZ takes over 16 seconds to get to 100mph.
http://fastestlaps.com/models/subaru-brz

 

[Fenixgoon]

You want to spend $2k and get a car that will do 0-100 in 10 seconds....?

Unless you have a lot of track time, a stock Miata is a great place to start.

winner winner. the answer is always miata.

 

[agent00f]

I paid $1800 for my s13, granted it was a KA and I had to convert to manual... if it was the SR20DET it would have been a $6500 car easy. People go nuts over those motors... obviously.

Like I said, $2000 for the car and it doesn't need to pass inspection. I am in the new england rust belt, so it's easy to talk people down on higher mileage cars. I'm not going to go searching country wide for a gem that I might wreck or may catch fire or something.

I have my BRZ, and I already know how to drive a track, but unless you're sponsored or on a team with several drivers the track insurance is not even remotely practical. Plus, if I wreck a car on the track in a beater I just brush myself off, curse a few times, and put it back on the trailer home.

Lemons is a complete joke. You spend $500 on a car and then several thousand making it as safe as possible with full roll cage, relocated fuel cell, frame rails, plexiglass, and whatever else it needs to be track ready.

The fact that even shitbox racing requires some semblance of safety should tell you something. Because much as you might not give a shit about your own other people do about theirs. If you push on track you will go off, no matter how talented you believe yourself to be.

The common cheapest track car is whatever light piece of crap nobody wants which isn't going to completely fall apart, like maybe a neon. But it's a question which makes no sense because racing is inherently expensive & not conducive to folks for whom 2 grand matters.

Again, if the goal is learning some semblance of driving skill, getting into something you'll spend all your time fixing up is just about the worst way.

 

[JCH13]

I paid $1800 for my s13, granted it was a KA and I had to convert to manual... if it was the SR20DET it would have been a $6500 car easy. People go nuts over those motors... obviously.

Like I said, $2000 for the car and it doesn't need to pass inspection. I am in the new england rust belt, so it's easy to talk people down on higher mileage cars. I'm not going to go searching country wide for a gem that I might wreck or may catch fire or something.

I have my BRZ, and I already know how to drive a track, but unless you're sponsored or on a team with several drivers the track insurance is not even remotely practical. Plus, if I wreck a car on the track in a beater I just brush myself off, curse a few times, and put it back on the trailer home.

Lemons is a complete joke. You spend $500 on a car and then several thousand making it as safe as possible with full roll cage, relocated fuel cell, frame rails, plexiglass, and whatever else it needs to be track ready.

No one said you had to start your own lemons team. Many teams offer driver seats for 700-1k per race, which gets you 4ish hours of wheel-to-wheel track time and pays for fuel, tires, brakes, etc. It's a great way to get track time without a ton of investment.

winner winner. the answer is always miata.

It is! Just don't forget the $500-1k in wheels/tires one can easily chew up on a season... frequently much more!

OP - the vehicle cost is a small fraction of what you'll spend to get competitive track time. You'll be looking at 1-2k in safety gear, putting in a cage, 5-6point harness, kill switch, etc. You'll be scrubbing tires and brakes really quick. Then add on track fees, a tow vehicle, etc. You'll wind up spending a lot more than 2k to get to the track and get rolling, so don't get too worried about the specific vehicle cost...

If you're just doing HPDEs, then your insurance might cover you. If it doesn't, HPDE insurance isn't a whole lot: https://www.motorsportreg.com/index.cfm/event/hpdeinsurance

 

[AdamK47]

What you want is a Honda Civic EX. You'll need a massive wing for downforce and a loud muffler for more performance.

 

[TechBoyJK]

Z4!!!!!!

 

[Ns1]

What you want is a Honda Civic EX. You'll need a massive wing for downforce and a loud muffler for more performance.

more stickers = more vtec

 

[GoodRevrnd]

I'm wondering what people would pick for max $15k (including initial necessary repairs), but preferably < $10k. I would probably only do HPDEs. Something very small. I think one of my main criteria would be relatively easy to work on myself with inexpensive parts. Somehow I had it in my head I could get a deal on an old MR2, Z, Supra, etc. if I found something serviceable with a trashed interior. Unfortunately, most of those cars are old enough that what is left is in pretty good shape. e36 is a maybe, but that basically doubles parts cost.

 

[jlee]

I'm wondering what people would pick for max $15k (including initial necessary repairs), but preferably < $10k. I would probably only do HPDEs. Something very small. I think one of my main criteria would be relatively easy to work on myself with inexpensive parts. Somehow I had it in my head I could get a deal on an old MR2, Z, Supra, etc. if I found something serviceable with a trashed interior. Unfortunately, most of those cars are old enough that what is left is in pretty good shape. e36 is a maybe, but that basically doubles parts cost.

Miata.

You can easily find cheaper MR2s for sale - I think I know of a track-ready ~355rwhp turbo for $12k, actually. Not cheap, but far from slow.

 

[GoodRevrnd]

Miata.

You can easily find cheaper MR2s for sale - I think I know of a track-ready ~355rwhp turbo for $12k, actually. Not cheap, but far from slow.

Except vert is a nonstarter. Should have mentioned that.

 

[jlee]

Except vert is a nonstarter. Should have mentioned that.

Miata with a hard top?

 

[agent00f]

I'm wondering what people would pick for max $15k (including initial necessary repairs), but preferably < $10k. I would probably only do HPDEs. Something very small. I think one of my main criteria would be relatively easy to work on myself with inexpensive parts. Somehow I had it in my head I could get a deal on an old MR2, Z, Supra, etc. if I found something serviceable with a trashed interior. Unfortunately, most of those cars are old enough that what is left is in pretty good shape. e36 is a maybe, but that basically doubles parts cost.

Frankly anything reasonable works for HPDEs, since the point is basic car control skills, unless your goal is learning the prep side of racing which is uncommon; so just get what you like for rest of the time w/ the car. Futzing over equipment details is a typical pitfall for all sorts of amateur sports.

 

[herm0016]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-C...c6f37c9e:g:L2gAAOSwoi1X8-bL&item=162251635870

c5 z06
0 to 100 in 10.4

This is about as cheap as you will find something that quick. This would make a great track beater. remove as much weight as possible and put in relevant safety systems, great aftermarket support also.

 

[Dr. Detroit]

The answer is '94 or '95 Mustang GT with the ultra reliable and cheap to modify 5.0L engine. You can dump money into the suspension, upgrade to Cobra brakes, and you will have a great track car. They weigh in at about 3300lbs.

$2,000 is not feasible but you gotta start somewhere.

 

[EXCellR8]

I had prepared for this type of thing, naturally, as an avid internet-goer... but I will admit that I probably should have been more careful.

Firstly, it does not take 16.4 seconds to get a brz/86 to 100mph, unless you're towing an atv or something. On 93 octane, I can get to 60 in just under 6 seconds and then maybe another 6 to 7 seconds to get to 100 thereafter. Keep in mind this is a full manual, stock tune, and no weight reduction.

Secondly, when someone says they can drive a track... this doesn't mean they are a professional. I know, it's the internet, and I can occasionally be very quick to judge and placate also... but there's quite a range of skill involved in driving around a track at speed. How do I know this? I've been to many track days and I've completed many clean laps. Yup, I've entered in some real crap boxes, but I've also been behind the wheel of much more capable machines like the 458 and Gallardo. No, I do not have a rich uncle or seriously hooked up friends... I am an enthusiast and I carefully plan outings and attend many events with as many people as possible.

I care very much about my own safety, and even more about others' ...but there is plenty of legal paperwork that attendees need sign before even the tech inspection. Racing is dangerous, is what I am acknowledging here. Just because a car passes tech and is deemed track worthy does not mean the driver will survive a wreck. Yes, I will spend more on top of the cost of the car to prep it... and I will still be in grave danger because anything can happen.

Lastly, high performance driving insurance doesn't cover a whole lot if you read the fine print. It covers basic damages to the track/facility and may not even fully cover damage to other drivers' cars or equipment. If you wreck your car on the track, it's wrecked, and will not be replaced or even partially paid for unless another party can disprove that they were involved. This is all stuff that they go over at the driver's meeting before nearly every public and even some invite only track events.

$2000 is enough to get started with a decent platform car, to be then built up and prepped for an afternoon or two of spirited track time. More time will require more labor, more parts, and obviously more money.

I found a '91 miata a few towns over that I'm going to look at tomorrow evening. It's been repainted, but owner claims it's very sound. I can source a hard top from one of the local part out shops.

 

[iwajabitw]

The answer is '94 or '95 Mustang GT with the ultra reliable and cheap to modify 5.0L engine. You can dump money into the suspension, upgrade to Cobra brakes, and you will have a great track car. They weigh in at about 3300lbs.

$2,000 is not feasible but you gotta start somewhere.

This is the best thing to do, parts are everywhere and inexpensive.

 

[herm0016]

I had prepared for this type of thing, naturally, as an avid internet-goer... but I will admit that I probably should have been more careful.

Firstly, it does not take 16.4 seconds to get a brz/86 to 100mph, unless you're towing an atv or something. On 93 octane, I can get to 60 in just under 6 seconds and then maybe another 6 to 7 seconds to get to 100 thereafter. Keep in mind this is a full manual, stock tune, and no weight reduction.

Secondly, when someone says they can drive a track... this doesn't mean they are a professional. I know, it's the internet, and I can occasionally be very quick to judge and placate also... but there's quite a range of skill involved in driving around a track at speed. How do I know this? I've been to many track days and I've completed many clean laps. Yup, I've entered in some real crap boxes, but I've also been behind the wheel of much more capable machines like the 458 and Gallardo. No, I do not have a rich uncle or seriously hooked up friends... I am an enthusiast and I carefully plan outings and attend many events with as many people as possible.

I care very much about my own safety, and even more about others' ...but there is plenty of legal paperwork that attendees need sign before even the tech inspection. Racing is dangerous, is what I am acknowledging here. Just because a car passes tech and is deemed track worthy does not mean the driver will survive a wreck. Yes, I will spend more on top of the cost of the car to prep it... and I will still be in grave danger because anything can happen.

Lastly, high performance driving insurance doesn't cover a whole lot if you read the fine print. It covers basic damages to the track/facility and may not even fully cover damage to other drivers' cars or equipment. If you wreck your car on the track, it's wrecked, and will not be replaced or even partially paid for unless another party can disprove that they were involved. This is all stuff that they go over at the driver's meeting before nearly every public and even some invite only track events.

$2000 is enough to get started with a decent platform car, to be then built up and prepped for an afternoon or two of spirited track time. More time will require more labor, more parts, and obviously more money.

I found a '91 miata a few towns over that I'm going to look at tomorrow evening. It's been repainted, but owner claims it's very sound. I can source a hard top from one of the local part out shops.

You must have a different definition of one second than NIST does. Call it 16. That's more than 50% off of 10 sec to 100. Stock of course. Every test I found was over 16. (YouTube does not count)

 

[XavierMace]

Firstly, it does not take 16.4 seconds to get a brz/86 to 100mph, unless you're towing an atv or something. On 93 octane, I can get to 60 in just under 6 seconds and then maybe another 6 to 7 seconds to get to 100 thereafter. Keep in mind this is a full manual, stock tune, and no weight reduction.

The entirety of the internet disagree's with that assessment. I can't find a single reputable site getting the car to 60 in under 6 seconds or to 100 in under 16. I loved then handling and interior on mine, but quick cars they are not.

 

[HarryLui]

Firstly, it does not take 16.4 seconds to get a brz/86 to 100mph, unless you're towing an atv or something. On 93 octane, I can get to 60 in just under 6 seconds and then maybe another 6 to 7 seconds to get to 100 thereafter. Keep in mind this is a full manual, stock tune, and no weight reduction.

Search for yourself.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=brz+1/4+mile
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYsr_BlKvEM