Ryzen 7 2700 seriously slow

[LTC8K6]

I was told to stay away from versions past 2.0 because they use an older AGESA in order to fit other things in the BIOS that wont matter for me. I also don't want to risk trying them since the BIOS can NOT be reverted.

IIRC, they changed the numbering system, the AGESA is not older, it's newer.

https://community.amd.com/thread/238039

https://www.techpowerup.com/253893/msi-rolls-out-amd-400-series-bios-updates-with-zen-2-microcode

 

[EliteRetard]

This can happen with voltages above 1.40V. Sometimes, the chip will sort of "lock down" and clock way low, when the voltage is pushed really high.

There are documented cases of this on the web, with people trying to OC their 1st-Gen Ryzen CPUs (and 2nd-Gen are basically similar, same arch), and trying for 4.0Ghz and 1.40V+ vcore, and finding that sometimes, their board / CPU / whatever, would just forcibly "clock down" to something in the low 3Ghz range.

Try not manually setting the voltage, just leave everything on AUTO, and let XFR/PBO do its thing.


You're not having a good time with this kit, are you?

Maybe time to buy a lotto ticket?

I was running everything at stock on v1.6 while I installed/updated the system in prep for v2.0 BIOS. Then ran that at stock for a while as well, and it was obvious how slow it was running. Like a minute to boot, 2-3 seconds to load web pages, installs/file transfers feel slow, slow enough that HWMonitor sometimes hangs/crashes trying to load in data and needs to be reopened. Even my old X6 1100T system with NO SSD is on par (what I'm using now) and it's on WiFi 20-25mbps (vs wired at 75mbps).

I build/buy tons of computers/laptops for friends/family, even budget and used if that's all they can afford. This is the first system I can recall in a long time that actually felt disappointing. Like I didn't get anywhere near what I paid for. I literally spent 3 days on it after building it, trying to figure out what was wrong. I can't find anything that's wrong (I'll investigate the supplemental 4pin CPU though).

Only other disappointing electronics recently I'd say was the S10e, even for less than half retail. Everybody ranting about how great it is, amazing screen etc etc. First though I had was "Why is the screen so horrible?" Seriously, can people not see the terrible rainbow/color shift it has? Can they not see the graininess (like a high ISO picture)? Why is the software so crap? You can't even read texts on the dang phone without opening each one individually. The fingerprint reader doesn't work (tried multiple registers on multiple fingers)...even when it does work it decides it needs the PIN for "security reasons". This is coming from a Nexus 5 which at the time I was a little annoyed with as well. It's screen isn't perfect, but it's MUCH better than the S10e and overall I'm a lot happier with the $300 spent on the Nexus than the $300 spent on the S10e (-150$ stacked with BOGO). How the hell anyone can say the S10e is good at the usual $750 is literally unbelievable to me. Initially based on the specs I thought it might be great, flat screen (it's not actually flat, big disappoint), decent size, HEADPHONE jack, etc. And the S10e gets poor battery life even compared to the decade old original Nexus battery (even with almost every feature/animation disabled on the S10e with dark mode and black home screen with no buttons/icons). Mostly because the battery size is a lie (seriously, listing the maximum size with no spare vs others typical after spare [it's probably a 27-2800mah]) and the phone turns itself on any time it moves (even with the feature off) and it's probably doing a bunch of crap in the background that the Nexus never did. I also don't use any Google/Samsung account and have the phones operate in the most basic state I can talk/text with rare web use (almost never away from a real computer, and rarely need web if I am).

 

[EliteRetard]

BTW, over volting is one problem with the 470 Taichi. I had to manually set mine.

So my one 2700x is runnimg 4100 all core all the time @ 1.3 vcore, Now its running 79c which I am not thrilled about but its very warm in the house right now. Its using a 240 rad. I think Corsair.

Try manual 1.3 vcore and 4 ghz all the time.

If I OC it seems to lock the chip at speed though. I loose all power savings and idle clocks. This system is intended to last 5+ years (as the previous PC's did in the position) not sure I'm comfortable running the system at max heat/clock 24/7 for the intended use. I'll probably try messing with it again after a while, but I was just about up for 3 days straight trying to get it running good after building it...I'm exhausted with it. Right now I feel like I'd smash it to bits if I even looked at it (I have great PC insurance, with an option that covers all damage/drops/spills).

 

[Markfw]

If I OC it seems to lock the chip at speed though. I loose all power savings and idle clocks. This system is intended to last 5+ years (as the previous PC's did in the position) not sure I'm comfortable running the system at max heat/clock 24/7 for the intended use. I'll probably try messing with it again after a while, but I was just about up for 3 days straight trying to get it running good after building it...I'm exhausted with it. Right now I feel like I'd smash it to bits if I even looked at it (I have great PC insurance, with an option that covers all damage/drops/spills).

OK< just try the 1.3 vcore and the 4 pin. Then get back to us.

 

[Shivansps]

Not sure if the PSU is the issue but is really on the low side for a power hungry RX570 plus a 2700, i would not recomend that for heavy CPU+GPU loads. But again your problem must be elsewhere, the PSU should be shutting down in case of overload, specially from a good PSU brand like Seasonic. And i do not expect that you would run intro issues in CPU-only loads and you certanly dont need a 80+Plus Gold PSU.

The Tachi X470 has a 8-pin and a 4-pin CPU power conectors, you need to plug the PSU to the 8-pin, the addicional 4-pin is not needed.

No more power is needed, even a lowly A320 can boost a 2700X to 4ghz ACT.

If still the CPU is not boosting, there has to be a thermal issue involved, either CPU or VRM, if there is not a thermal issue, it must be the power plan, if neither, well i would contact Asrock support, but im 100% sure they are going to put the blame on the PSU that is cleary on the low side here.

 

[EliteRetard]

IIRC, they changed the numbering system, the AGESA is not older, it's newer.

https://community.amd.com/thread/238039

https://www.techpowerup.com/253893/msi-rolls-out-amd-400-series-bios-updates-with-zen-2-microcode

Interesting... This MOBO is running 1.0.0.6, and I don't need anything newer for the 3000/zen2 (and I can update if/when I ever upgrade from the 2700)

 

[LTC8K6]

Interesting... This MOBO is running 1.0.0.6, and I don't need anything newer for the 3000/zen2 (and I can update if/when I ever upgrade from the 2700)

Well, you clearly have a problem with your system that you haven't figured out yet.

 

[EliteRetard]

OK< just try the 1.3 vcore and the 4 pin. Then get back to us.

I'll try that, but I'm taking a break from it for now. I have 4 other systems here right now that all work fine.

 

[Markfw]

I'll try that, but I'm taking a break from it for now. I have 4 other systems here right now that all work fine.

And with that PSU, just for testing, try a BIG rated gold one. Like an 850 watt gold.

 

[LTC8K6]

I think if the Asrock X470 Taichi did not allow the normal boost behavior with PB2 and XFR2 for 2700 chips, there would be all sorts of threads about it all over the place.

 

[kschendel]

If you can only get 40's C under load that's another indication to me that something is very wrong; what's your CPU temp in the bios itself while "idle"? My 2700X runs about 50C in the BIOS with a Mugen 5 cooler, so I'm thinking your CPU is running way too cool -> too slow. You did do a full CMOS reset, right? There's a bios setting somewhere (don't want to reboot atm to find out where) that enables / disables boost clocks, but I seem to recall it's fairly obvious. I'd do a bios reset and go through ALL of the settings just to see if you have something set wonky. Maybe you have a broken CPU that won't boost, if such a thing is possible?

You don't get PBO for non-X CPU's (at least, not on the Taichi) but it certainly has XFR and that should be getting you clocks right up around 4.1 GHz at boost.

 

[Justinbaileyman]

I do not have the 4pin connected, I was informed that it was optional for heavy OC (8pin was like 300w and 4 pin an additional 150w). This PSU does not have a second CPU plug (just the single 8 pin). Yes the main 20+4 is connected (I can't imagine a system would even work without that). Even if I was misinformed and the power is more like PCIE (max 150w per 8pin) that should be plenty for a 65w rated CPU (even the 95w 2700X). On top of that, the main 20+4 connector provides CPU power as well (around 150w if I recall?)

Ohh, well that has got to be the problem then. You need to have both 8 pin and 4 pin plugged in for gen 2 Ryzen. There was a post back when these first got released that this was gonna be an issue for Ryzen gen 2. Guess start looking for a new PSU? Personally I am using a EVGA 850w + Gold which I got on sale from newegg for something like $70-$80 bucks.
Even if your not gonna use that much juice, it is always a good thing to be prepared for the future.

 

[scannall]

Ohh, well that has got to be the problem then. You need to have both 8 pin and 4 pin plugged in for gen 2 Ryzen. There was a post back when these first got released that this was gonna be an issue for Ryzen gen 2. Guess start looking for a new PSU? Personally I am using a EVGA 850w + Gold which I got on sale from newegg for something like $70-$80 bucks.
Even if your not gonna use that much juice, it is always a good thing to be prepared for the future.

I have to disagree with that. I have the 2600X, in both ASUS and MSI motherboards. Just the 8 pin plugged into both. Runs like a champ. Another thing both motherboards had in common though was it was difficult to get the heat sink down right. And, following this thread it sounds like that may be the issue. Remove the heat sink, re-do the paste then carefully and firmly reattach it. Had that problem with the ASUS. Looked like it was down right, but ran terrible. Took it apart, and found the heat sink wasn't down quite right. After fixing that, it took off and ran just great.

 

[DrMrLordX]

I do not have the 4pin connected

Connect it then. You should be supplying board power using every available connector. Your PSU likely has the plug for it. The only way I would hesitate to use an auxiliary power connector would be if my PSU didn't have the right plugs for the board's needs (forcing me to use an adapter). And in that case, I'd be looking to get an updated PSU.

As for the best UEFI revision, honestly, I'd go for the x470 Taichi owner's thread on OCN and look at what they're saying there.

Try manual 1.3 vcore and 4 ghz all the time.

Manual OC is a good suggestion, but I wouldn't jump straight to 4.0 GHz. Instead I would try 3.4 GHz and step upward to see what happens. There's no way that chip is supposed to be running 3.2 GHz all the time. It is not designed for that.

edit: the above quote comes from @Markfw rather than @EliteRetard but multiquote screwed up and I don't feel like trying to fix it by hand. So. Bleh.

I have to disagree with that. I have the 2600X, in both ASUS and MSI motherboards. Just the 8 pin plugged into both. Runs like a champ. Another thing both motherboards had in common though was it was difficult to get the heat sink down right. And, following this thread it sounds like that may be the issue. Remove the heat sink, re-do the paste then carefully and firmly reattach it. Had that problem with the ASUS. Looked like it was down right, but ran terrible. Took it apart, and found the heat sink wasn't down quite right. After fixing that, it took off and ran just great.

Temps never get above 50C, so I don't think it's thermally throttling.

 

[topmysteries5]

PSU is definitely not an issue here. I have used cheap 30$ Antec 350w (without any 80plus rating) with ryzen 2700+asus x470 pro. (8pins for CPU is must) Gold/platinum ratings means better components used inside PSU, which results in higher efficiency, less heating and less voltage dipping on high loads. If you think your PSU is faulty, then try to check its voltages in mobo BIOS, then verify it by an accurate multimeter device by checking 12v,5v rails on PSU.

I suspect either you have faulty motherboard or some BIOS setting is messed up. Try to reset everything to default. It would be better if you do some benchmark (not geekbench) and post screenshots here. CPU-z and GPU-z , Aida64 screenshots with temp will be good.

 

[Shivansps]

Guys seriusly the PSU and the addicional 4-pin is unlikely to be the issue here(for CPU-only load, CPU+GPU heavy loads may be another thing), ive assembled bigger systems with worse PSU than that(incluiding ones that also had the 8+4), the turbo arent going to be disabled by bad psu, the PSU either shutdown down, blows to hell or you may have bsods, but turbo disabled? not gonna happen.

It would be dumb for Asrock to limit turbos to use the 8pin CPU + the 4 pin cpu, using 8+4 pins for AM4 CPUs is not only not needed, but is uncommon and you are leaving out a ton of PSUs. You are asking for troubles, i dont think Asrock engeniers to be that dumb. Is there as a reinforcement for extreme OCs, BUT i do agree that if the PSU that the extra 4-pin to connect both the 8 pin and the 4 pin you should use it.

To me is a bios or thermal issue, dont try manual OC it should work out of the box. But you should flash the latest bios and give it a try... if you can run y-cruncher along a hwbot sensor screen and post it here, i would like to see all thermal readings after 10 minutes, cpu and all VRMs-

 

[LTC8K6]

If you can only get 40's C under load that's another indication to me that something is very wrong; what's your CPU temp in the bios itself while "idle"? My 2700X runs about 50C in the BIOS with a Mugen 5 cooler, so I'm thinking your CPU is running way too cool -> too slow. You did do a full CMOS reset, right? There's a bios setting somewhere (don't want to reboot atm to find out where) that enables / disables boost clocks, but I seem to recall it's fairly obvious. I'd do a bios reset and go through ALL of the settings just to see if you have something set wonky. Maybe you have a broken CPU that won't boost, if such a thing is possible?

You don't get PBO for non-X CPU's (at least, not on the Taichi) but it certainly has XFR and that should be getting you clocks right up around 4.1 GHz at boost.

Yes, 40C under load on air only seems odd. Something is just not right somewhere.

 

[Captante]

It is possible the PSU is to blame however if that's the case it has close to zero to do with its efficiency rating.

Main thing a "gold" or better PSU does is make better use of the power coming from the wall and produce less heat. (waste)

 

[Furious_Styles]

It's possible you have a defective CPU or Mobo, don't rule that out OP. I agree with others that the extra 4pin is most likely not necessary at all, esp. running @ stock.

 

[kschendel]

FWIW the BIOS setting I mentioned above is in Advanced / AMD CBS / Zen Common Options, "Core Performance Boost" should be Auto or Enabled.

 

[chrisjames61]

All new (except old case):

2700 (non x)
AsRock x470 Taichi
2x 8GB DDR4 3200 CAS 16 - 1T
480GB HP EX920
4GB RX570
Seasonic 520w bronze
Antec 300 w/ 5x Arctic P12 PWM fans.
Hyper 212 Evo (terrible fan, immediately replaced with P12)

Replacing an old/failing system:

2500k (set max 4GHz boost, 3.8GHz all core)
MSI P67A-GD65
2x 8GB DDR3 1600 CAS 9 - 1T (replaced failed 2x 4GB)
240GB Crucial M500 (on SATA2, broken SATA3 hence budget SSD) + 1TB 7200RPM HDD
2GB 6950
Corsair HX 520W (old HX series https://www.anandtech.com/show/2724/10 )
Antec 300 w/ stock fans + 3x Yate Loon D12SL
Arctic Freezer 7 Pro

It's extremely disappointing, I built a vastly faster system for a friend 4+ years ago (end 2014 - 4790k based) and that's what I was expecting (or better). After hours scouring the net, the only thing I can find is that the new Ryzen chips are only just on par with the old Sandy Bridge chips clock for clock (so their only advantage is multi-threaded). However the 2500k had a working boost that could also OC, so it's much faster under load (and can still enter proper idle/low power). The 2700 has no working boost, I can't find any setting for the claimed XFR/Precision boost (not under NBIO options) so the chip is stuck at 3.2GHz max. This x470 MOBO was supposed to be the best for the 8+ core CPUs, having a greater than real 3 phase VRM (MSI being the only other under $200) plus a "good" BIOS (vs the MSI boards) and having all the latest features (minus 10GB NIC [didn't want/need]). Yes, I did update BIOS and manually tune whatever I could (basically only RAM). I chose the 2700 plus aftermarket cooler vs the 2700x+stock because (despite the good stock cooler) all I see are reports of high power/heat...and my situation heat is a big issue (the 2500k w/ mild OC could hit 90c). Yet this 2700 always seems to operate at "idle", under the heaviest load it stays below 50c with fans at minimum (<800 RPM) even with 1.425v (offset voltage doesn't seem to work).

I feel like I would have been way better off with a cheaper 9400F system...the extra threads don't mean anything if the system is already slow out of the gate. The old 2500k could handle tons of web pages and dozens of programs simultaneously before getting bogged down, this new system is slow all the time and it would be a chore to load up enough stuff to use the extra threads. It's really weird, I was extremely excited about AMD "coming back" and all the great news/praise on the internet had me excited to try it out. I seriously don't get it...my experience has been terrible, and as far as I can tell I'm doing things right. Sure if the 2700 could boost/hold 4GHz under load it'd be about as fast as the 2500K, but how is that so amazing (even if twice the cores is useful)? At the very least it did get Intel off their a$$ and force them to give us more cores for the money (though they went backwards with the 9th series)...but performance still hasn't gone anywhere. If you tend to run a ton of programs at once (not a single giant multi-thread program) it seems Intel is still the way to go.

Off topic:
I gotta say, the 212 Evo is also disappointing. I know it's been a really long time budget favorite (that I just never needed to try), and now there are better coolers for the money...yet not a single one was in stock at a fair price that I could find. Figured what the heck, it's still better than stock and with a "proper" MOBO + voltage control I should be OK (especially with a bunch of new fans). But oh man, that mounting system is terrible...and the fan is HORRIBLE. Making a warbling rumble and screeching noise even at low speed. The factory finish on the base heatpipe surface was nasty as well (looked like they scraped it on concrete), even 220 grit gave a much better polish.

The Arctic P12 PWM fans seem decent for the price ($6 each). Low power, non offensive at low speeds (800RPM), some airflow as heatsink or case fan, easily chained for fewer PWM ports or easy grouping for a fan profile. Downside: No option/adapter for direct PSU connection (if you need that), seems like cheap brittle plastic (worse than ABS) blades may easily break if contacted while moving.

TLDR:
Spent $1K on new system, got noticeable downgrade, I AM DISSAPOINT!

Oh and I know the Ryzen 3000 (Zen2) are coming out soon, but old system couldn't hold out any longer.

Sounds like serious case of PEBKAC. Stop blaming a known terrific cpu and suck it up and take some responisibility. Everybody and his brother who has built Ryzen rigs is happy but you.

 

[inf64]

Ryzen 2700 has Pinnacle Ridge core that is noticeably ahead of Sandy Bridge IPC -wise, not to meantion Ryzen has 2x the amount of cores plus SMT on top of that. You have an issue with either PSU or the motherboard/RAM/BIOS.

 

[EliteRetard]

Ryzen 2700 has Pinnacle Ridge core that is noticeably ahead of Sandy Bridge IPC -wise, not to meantion Ryzen has 2x the amount of cores plus SMT on top of that. You have an issue with either PSU or the motherboard/RAM/BIOS.

I'm not interested in starting an argument, but when I looked online I found several sources showing the 4 core Ryzen chips right in line with the 2500K. If an R5 1400 with more cache and SMT cant beat a 2500k at similar clocks, well that says to me they perform very similar clock for clock. Yes a 2700 is double that, but for a bunch of single threaded apps none of that will matter (it should simply allow more of those apps to run at once)...and if the 2700 is running at a 20% lower speed than a 2500K then I can reasonably assume it's going to be slower for each app (and real world usage backs that up).

I will get around to further experiments on the new system, but it wont be for a while. Considering how much time, effort, and money I already put into it, my disappointment can easily turn to disgust and hatred. I don't want/need that kind of crap.

 

[Hitman928]

I'm not interested in starting an argument, but when I looked online I found several sources showing the 4 core Ryzen chips right in line with the 2500K. If an R5 1400 with more cache and SMT cant beat a 2500k at similar clocks, well that says to me they perform very similar clock for clock. Yes a 2700 is double that, but for a bunch of single threaded apps none of that will matter (it should simply allow more of those apps to run at once)...and if the 2700 is running at a 20% lower speed than a 2500K then I can reasonably assume it's going to be slower for each app (and real world usage backs that up).

I will get around to further experiments on the new system, but it wont be for a while. Considering how much time, effort, and money I already put into it, my disappointment can easily turn to disgust and hatred. I don't want/need that kind of crap.

AMD 2300x vs intel 2500k.

https://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/2266?vs=2355

The 2300x has less than a 10% clock advantage but smokes the 2500k in most tests. Both are 4 cores and 4 threads.

 

[Fanatical Meat]

I'm not interested in starting an argument, but when I looked online I found several sources showing the 4 core Ryzen chips right in line with the 2500K. If an R5 1400 with more cache and SMT cant beat a 2500k at similar clocks, well that says to me they perform very similar clock for clock. Yes a 2700 is double that, but for a bunch of single threaded apps none of that will matter (it should simply allow more of those apps to run at once)...and if the 2700 is running at a 20% lower speed than a 2500K then I can reasonably assume it's going to be slower for each app (and real world usage backs that up).

I will get around to further experiments on the new system, but it wont be for a while. Considering how much time, effort, and money I already put into it, my disappointment can easily turn to disgust and hatred. I don't want/need that kind of crap.

Hey I’ve been there with an AMD dog system. Sounds like no matter what happens at this time you’ll stay disappointed. Why not sell the whole system and start over with a intel machine.

**the dude is obviously unhappy with his decision at this point I don’t think he’d be satisfied even with better than expected performance. Better to end the pain now.