Ryzen 7 2700 seriously slow

EliteRetard

Diamond Member
Mar 6, 2006
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43
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#1
All new (except old case):

2700 (non x)
AsRock x470 Taichi
2x 8GB DDR4 3200 CAS 16 - 1T
480GB HP EX920
4GB RX570
Seasonic 520w bronze
Antec 300 w/ 5x Arctic P12 PWM fans.
Hyper 212 Evo (terrible fan, immediately replaced with P12)

Replacing an old/failing system:

2500k (set max 4GHz boost, 3.8GHz all core)
MSI P67A-GD65
2x 8GB DDR3 1600 CAS 9 - 1T (replaced failed 2x 4GB)
240GB Crucial M500 (on SATA2, broken SATA3 hence budget SSD) + 1TB 7200RPM HDD
2GB 6950
Corsair HX 520W (old HX series https://www.anandtech.com/show/2724/10 )
Antec 300 w/ stock fans + 3x Yate Loon D12SL
Arctic Freezer 7 Pro

It's extremely disappointing, I built a vastly faster system for a friend 4+ years ago (end 2014 - 4790k based) and that's what I was expecting (or better). After hours scouring the net, the only thing I can find is that the new Ryzen chips are only just on par with the old Sandy Bridge chips clock for clock (so their only advantage is multi-threaded). However the 2500k had a working boost that could also OC, so it's much faster under load (and can still enter proper idle/low power). The 2700 has no working boost, I can't find any setting for the claimed XFR/Precision boost (not under NBIO options) so the chip is stuck at 3.2GHz max. This x470 MOBO was supposed to be the best for the 8+ core CPUs, having a greater than real 3 phase VRM (MSI being the only other under $200) plus a "good" BIOS (vs the MSI boards) and having all the latest features (minus 10GB NIC [didn't want/need]). Yes, I did update BIOS and manually tune whatever I could (basically only RAM). I chose the 2700 plus aftermarket cooler vs the 2700x+stock because (despite the good stock cooler) all I see are reports of high power/heat...and my situation heat is a big issue (the 2500k w/ mild OC could hit 90c). Yet this 2700 always seems to operate at "idle", under the heaviest load it stays below 50c with fans at minimum (<800 RPM) even with 1.425v (offset voltage doesn't seem to work).

I feel like I would have been way better off with a cheaper 9400F system...the extra threads don't mean anything if the system is already slow out of the gate. The old 2500k could handle tons of web pages and dozens of programs simultaneously before getting bogged down, this new system is slow all the time and it would be a chore to load up enough stuff to use the extra threads. It's really weird, I was extremely excited about AMD "coming back" and all the great news/praise on the internet had me excited to try it out. I seriously don't get it...my experience has been terrible, and as far as I can tell I'm doing things right. Sure if the 2700 could boost/hold 4GHz under load it'd be about as fast as the 2500K, but how is that so amazing (even if twice the cores is useful)? At the very least it did get Intel off their a$$ and force them to give us more cores for the money (though they went backwards with the 9th series)...but performance still hasn't gone anywhere. If you tend to run a ton of programs at once (not a single giant multi-thread program) it seems Intel is still the way to go.

Off topic:
I gotta say, the 212 Evo is also disappointing. I know it's been a really long time budget favorite (that I just never needed to try), and now there are better coolers for the money...yet not a single one was in stock at a fair price that I could find. Figured what the heck, it's still better than stock and with a "proper" MOBO + voltage control I should be OK (especially with a bunch of new fans). But oh man, that mounting system is terrible...and the fan is HORRIBLE. Making a warbling rumble and screeching noise even at low speed. The factory finish on the base heatpipe surface was nasty as well (looked like they scraped it on concrete), even 220 grit gave a much better polish.

The Arctic P12 PWM fans seem decent for the price ($6 each). Low power, non offensive at low speeds (800RPM), some airflow as heatsink or case fan, easily chained for fewer PWM ports or easy grouping for a fan profile. Downside: No option/adapter for direct PSU connection (if you need that), seems like cheap brittle plastic (worse than ABS) blades may easily break if contacted while moving.

TLDR:
Spent $1K on new system, got noticeable downgrade, I AM DISSAPOINT!

Oh and I know the Ryzen 3000 (Zen2) are coming out soon, but old system couldn't hold out any longer.
 

Markfw

CPU Moderator, VC&G Moderator, Elite Member
Super Moderator
May 16, 2002
18,174
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#2
What are your temps using Ryzen master ? If there is any chance it does not have good cooling, it will run, but as slow as 500 mhz. What is the vcore ? What is the CURRENT cooling solution. The stock cooler does pretty well.
 
Jan 12, 2005
24,730
682
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#3
There's something wrong with your setup, mine boosts to 4.3ghz.

Edit: Oops sorry, mines a 2700X but it works the same.
 
Last edited:
Mar 10, 2004
28,523
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#4
I know jack about Ryzen, but I know that if it's "stuck at 3.2Ghz max" then something is wrong somewhere, and it's unlikely to be the chip itself.

I would never go on a rant about the chip when I can't figure out what's wrong.
 
Feb 4, 2009
20,766
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#5
520 watt bronze power supply?
I’m no power supply expert but that sounds seriously weak.
 
Aug 17, 2013
1,812
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#6
I think you need to update your bios first of all and then do a bios reset to stock settings.
Also what slots do you have your memory in? Having the memory in the wrong slot order will cause your system to run slow and or crash and hang or not boot at all.
What cooling solution are you currently using and are you sure you have it mounted correctly and securely??
Are you using thermal grease between your CPU and Heatsink??
Loose mounting of heatsinks and not using thermal grease will cause cooling issues and make your cpu thermal throttle which makes you entire PC run slow.
This can also kill your PC..
What speed do you have the fans set to for cooling the cpu??
What speed do you have the memory set to.
Are you trying to overclock or run stock speeds?
Do you have XFR enabled?
Are you running your Operating System in power saving mode or Performance mode.
Please give us more info so we can help you to the best of our abilities.
 

Markfw

CPU Moderator, VC&G Moderator, Elite Member
Super Moderator
May 16, 2002
18,174
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#7
I know jack about Ryzen, but I know that if it's "stuck at 3.2Ghz max" then something is wrong somewhere, and it's unlikely to be the chip itself.

I would never go on a rant about the chip when I can't figure out what's wrong.
Exactly. Don't blame the chip, when you don't know whats wrong. It coud be settings, Bios, the cooler, windows setup or even the operator. I have TWO x470 Taichi systems with 2700x and samsung bdie 3600 memory. They both work perfectly. Its not the hardware, its something else.
 
Feb 4, 2009
20,766
1,484
126
#8
Exactly. Don't blame the chip, when you don't know whats wrong. It coud be settings, Bios, the cooler, windows setup or even the operator. I have TWO x470 Taichi systems with 2700x and samsung bdie 3600 memory. They both work perfectly. Its not the hardware, its something else.
See post 5 think it’s possible the chip isn’t getting enough power and throttling?
 

EliteRetard

Diamond Member
Mar 6, 2006
5,953
43
136
#9
What are your temps using Ryzen master ? If there is any chance it does not have good cooling, it will run, but as slow as 500 mhz. What is the vcore ? What is the CURRENT cooling solution. The stock cooler does pretty well.
Ryzen Master is complete garbage (I tried it), just like the AMD Radeon settings. However I have confirmed the temps with various software (including HW Monitor/Info) Temps are in the 40's Celcius under full load (like Prime 26.6 [no AVX] and new 29.4). I tried loading various core counts as well (1-2-4-8-16). As mentioned, VCORE is showing as 1.425 peak. That's what I get stock, I also tried a negative offset (as low as -.03125v before it would crash) and it still reads 1.425v peak.

The cooling solution is a new 212 Evo with 2x Arctic P12 PWM fans (push/pull both correctly oriented to exhaust out the back). I tried a custom fan profile (tried both CPU temp and TCTRL) as well as just running 100%. I also gently smoothed (on a flat stone) the terrible finish on the base heatpipes, and properly applied paste for this type of design. I did not try the stock Spire cooler (the location of this PC is hotter than normal).
 

Markfw

CPU Moderator, VC&G Moderator, Elite Member
Super Moderator
May 16, 2002
18,174
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#10
See post 5 think it’s possible the chip isn’t getting enough power and throttling?
Yes, this is also a possibility. I use only platinum or titanium PSU's just to be sure there are no power delievery problems. Are both the 8 pin and 4 pin hooked up to the motherboard ? In addition to the 26 pin ?
 

EliteRetard

Diamond Member
Mar 6, 2006
5,953
43
136
#11
520 watt bronze power supply?
I’m no power supply expert but that sounds seriously weak.
The 2700 is rated for 65w, worst case I've heard for 8 core Ryzen was 250w for large overclocks. A 4GB 570 is max 150w. An EX920 is 9w. The 5 fans, about 5w. Not sure the MOBO power draw, certainly a few watts. Either way, only if every component was pulling it's max all simultaneously would I hit 400-500 watts.

Seasonic makes good PSUs, the unit selected can handle the power I need in the environment it's in.
 
May 13, 2009
11,768
58
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#12
Maybe you have a turd ssd? That's always the biggest bottleneck. I can't see the 2700 performing worse multitasking than a 2500k which was only 4 cores cores(no virtual cores).
 

EliteRetard

Diamond Member
Mar 6, 2006
5,953
43
136
#13
I think you need to update your bios first of all and then do a bios reset to stock settings.
Also what slots do you have your memory in? Having the memory in the wrong slot order will cause your system to run slow and or crash and hang or not boot at all.
What cooling solution are you currently using and are you sure you have it mounted correctly and securely??
Are you using thermal grease between your CPU and Heatsink??
Loose mounting of heatsinks and not using thermal grease will cause cooling issues and make your cpu thermal throttle which makes you entire PC run slow.
This can also kill your PC..
What speed do you have the fans set to for cooling the cpu??
What speed do you have the memory set to.
Are you trying to overclock or run stock speeds?
Do you have XFR enabled?
Are you running your Operating System in power saving mode or Performance mode.
Please give us more info so we can help you to the best of our abilities.
BIOS was completely stock v1.6, needed to update windows and install proper software before upgrading to recommended v2.0. Ran stock 2.0 for testing as well. I have the memory in the recommended A2/B2, the only thing I'm not actually sure about is whether these are single/dual rank. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820164137 Cooling/fan info above, heatsink uses springs for mounting pressure (I'm using the proper spacers/standoffs for AM4 per instructions) tightened until stop. I initially ran stock memory at 2400MHz, currently set with XMP to 3200MHz (did try 2933 manually, but I'm not familiar with RAM settings beyond the basic 5). Overclocking is not really an option, it disables all power saving and speed control and locks the CPU to set speed (I still want the CPU to drop to low power idle). There is no XFR or precision boost anywhere in the BIOS (v1.6 or 2.0) regardless of what the internet says (again it's not in the NBIO options or anywhere else I can find). The OS is set to balanced, I tried the custom AMD balanced mode with no difference (seems recommended to used regular windows balanced on latest versions of windows).
 
Mar 10, 2004
28,523
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#14
I see reviewers getting 4.1 on all cores with the stock cooler.

So the stock boost profile should be child's play.
 

EliteRetard

Diamond Member
Mar 6, 2006
5,953
43
136
#15
Exactly. Don't blame the chip, when you don't know whats wrong. It coud be settings, Bios, the cooler, windows setup or even the operator. I have TWO x470 Taichi systems with 2700x and samsung bdie 3600 memory. They both work perfectly. Its not the hardware, its something else.
The 2700x is a different CPU than the 2700...perhaps the $100 more for the 2700x amounts to something. I assumed (apparently incorrectly) that they would be identical (other than the speed) and that I could adjust some boost on the 2700 to match the 2700x (while saving money and getting a better cooler). There is no boost option I can find, and no way to adjust it. Even at full stock settings and two different BIOS the CPU operated the same (by all accounts operating as specified/intended). The 2700x has a much higher base frequency, and perhaps it's the X only with XFR/PB.
 

EliteRetard

Diamond Member
Mar 6, 2006
5,953
43
136
#17
Yes, this is also a possibility. I use only platinum or titanium PSU's just to be sure there are no power delievery problems. Are both the 8 pin and 4 pin hooked up to the motherboard ? In addition to the 26 pin ?
I do not have the 4pin connected, I was informed that it was optional for heavy OC (8pin was like 300w and 4 pin an additional 150w). This PSU does not have a second CPU plug (just the single 8 pin). Yes the main 20+4 is connected (I can't imagine a system would even work without that). Even if I was misinformed and the power is more like PCIE (max 150w per 8pin) that should be plenty for a 65w rated CPU (even the 95w 2700X). On top of that, the main 20+4 connector provides CPU power as well (around 150w if I recall?)
 

EliteRetard

Diamond Member
Mar 6, 2006
5,953
43
136
#19
Maybe you have a turd ssd? That's always the biggest bottleneck. I can't see the 2700 performing worse multitasking than a 2500k which was only 4 cores cores(no virtual cores).
I tried to find an SSD benchmark to compare to...I found result in ASSSD for a 1TB EX920. My 480GB version is coming in a bit lower but not by a ton.
 

Markfw

CPU Moderator, VC&G Moderator, Elite Member
Super Moderator
May 16, 2002
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#20
I do not have the 4pin connected, I was informed that it was optional for heavy OC (8pin was like 300w and 4 pin an additional 150w). This PSU does not have a second CPU plug (just the single 8 pin). Yes the main 20+4 is connected (I can't imagine a system would even work without that). Even if I was misinformed and the power is more like PCIE (max 150w per 8pin) that should be plenty for a 65w rated CPU (even the 95w 2700X). On top of that, the main 20+4 connector provides CPU power as well (around 150w if I recall?)
Well, I don't acre what others have said. If you have a problem, and the 4 pin is NOT connected, that MIGHT be your problem. You need to eliminate that as a possible problem by using a GOOD PSU, at least gold rated, and connect all connectors, including the other 4 pin.
 
Mar 10, 2004
28,523
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#21
The BIOS versions apparently go up to 3.2.

Are you running 3.2?
 
Aug 25, 2001
44,433
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#22
so the chip is stuck at 3.2GHz max.
even with 1.425v (offset voltage doesn't seem to work).
This can happen with voltages above 1.40V. Sometimes, the chip will sort of "lock down" and clock way low, when the voltage is pushed really high.

There are documented cases of this on the web, with people trying to OC their 1st-Gen Ryzen CPUs (and 2nd-Gen are basically similar, same arch), and trying for 4.0Ghz and 1.40V+ vcore, and finding that sometimes, their board / CPU / whatever, would just forcibly "clock down" to something in the low 3Ghz range.

Try not manually setting the voltage, just leave everything on AUTO, and let XFR/PBO do its thing.

and the fan is HORRIBLE. Making a warbling rumble and screeching noise even at low speed. The factory finish on the base heatpipe surface was nasty as well (looked like they scraped it on concrete), even 220 grit gave a much better polish.
You're not having a good time with this kit, are you?

Maybe time to buy a lotto ticket?
 

EliteRetard

Diamond Member
Mar 6, 2006
5,953
43
136
#23
Well, I don't acre what others have said. If you have a problem, and the 4 pin is NOT connected, that MIGHT be your problem. You need to eliminate that as a possible problem by using a GOOD PSU, at least gold rated, and connect all connectors, including the other 4 pin.
Seasonic makes good PSU's (easily one of the best brands). An 80+ Gold is simply more efficient than a Bronze rated, not necessarily better. However I'm not going to completely ignore the suggestion...I'll look into options for testing (since it's modular I may be able to get an extra 4 pin CPU cable).

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151093

https://www.hardocp.com/article/2010/05/18/seasonic_m12ii620_power_supply_review/9
Silver award (great bang for the buck) I got the 520w for $30.
 

EliteRetard

Diamond Member
Mar 6, 2006
5,953
43
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#24
The BIOS versions apparently go up to 3.2.

Are you running 3.2?
I was told to stay away from versions past 2.0 because they use an older AGESA in order to fit other things in the BIOS that wont matter for me. I also don't want to risk trying them since the BIOS can NOT be reverted.
 

Markfw

CPU Moderator, VC&G Moderator, Elite Member
Super Moderator
May 16, 2002
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#25
BTW, over volting is one problem with the 470 Taichi. I had to manually set mine.

So my one 2700x is runnimg 4100 all core all the time @ 1.3 vcore, Now its running 79c which I am not thrilled about but its very warm in the house right now. Its using a 240 rad. I think Corsair.

Try manual 1.3 vcore and 4 ghz all the time.
 

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