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Ran across a good deal, bought 335i. Update 3: In the shop

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What a bummer but thumbs up for the coverage. I'm glad I got the 100,000 maintenance and warranty, although I never used the warranty portion of it.

Just pray for no HPFP problems. Although those are covered free by BMW to 110,000 miles.
 
congrats on the new car...hope you have it back soon.

just out of curiosity, how much does fixing the hpfp yourself cost?
 
Does anyone make a *better* HPFP yet? Surely the aftermarket has a solution by now, diesels have been running much higher pressure for years. It blows my mind that BMW would rather replace than reengineer.
 
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The out of pocket cost will be around $700 at the stealership. Supposedly, they have resolved the HPFP issue after you replace them.

BTW, I just checked. It is covered 12 years/120,000 miles. There is also a recall for 07-10 to get it replaced with the newest HPFPs so get them to do that while it's in the shop!
 
The out of pocket cost will be around $700 at the stealership. Supposedly, they have resolved the HPFP issue after you replace them.

BTW, I just checked. It is covered 12 years/120,000 miles. There is also a recall for 07-10 to get it replaced with the newest HPFPs so get them to do that while it's in the shop!

I'll make sure and ask next time she contacts me.
 
BMW do it as a fairly crude way to bias understeer rather than oversteer, so you should gain front end grip for better turn in.

+1

It leads to more neutral handling, and much better initial bite on turn in. It also helps substantially on braking.

Edit: so if you do increase sizes and go staggered, try not to go too big of a difference between front & rear width.
 
+1

It leads to more neutral handling, and much better initial bite on turn in. It also helps substantially on braking.

Edit: so if you do increase sizes and go staggered, try not to go too big of a difference between front & rear width.
On both my cars the standard difference is 30mm from the factory.

1 series: 215/245 <--- pricey when running RFT, in fact cost as much for four as the M3 Continentals do...
M3: 225/255

On the subject of tyres, I just went to non-RFT on the 1 and the ride is much better.
 
+1

It leads to more neutral handling, and much better initial bite on turn in. It also helps substantially on braking.

Edit: so if you do increase sizes and go staggered, try not to go too big of a difference between front & rear width.

a little toe out in the front will make turn in happen a little faster
 
On both my cars the standard difference is 30mm from the factory.

1 series: 215/245 <--- pricey when running RFT, in fact cost as much for four as the M3 Continentals do...
M3: 225/255

On the subject of tyres, I just went to non-RFT on the 1 and the ride is much better.

Mine was 30mm as well, 255 front, 285 rear. On the track, even with aftermarket suspension and a reasonably good alignment, I'm eatting the fronts.

a little toe out in the front will make turn in happen a little faster

Yep, 1/16" toe out fronts for the street, and some extra camber.
 
BMW do it as a fairly crude way to bias understeer rather than oversteer, so you should gain front end grip for better turn in.

understeer = the enemy

not sure why you would want to make it even worse with wider back tires. The fun of a RWD car is being able to kick the tail out.
 
understeer = the enemy

not sure why you would want to make it even worse with wider back tires. The fun of a RWD car is being able to kick the tail out.

The fun of a 375whp+ DD is being able to floor it and make people shit their pants. It's intoxicating how easy it is to make power in this car for sure. This combined with all the available suspension options and such makes it hard not to want to go crazy. At the end of the day though, this is supposed to be the DD. The Corvette will be for kicking the tail out. I have to be patient 😛
 
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Wow if that isn't a red flag I don't know what is. Hopefully you won't find anymore "weak links" before the months over.

I'd hate to see an inferior German car if these are "teh bestest look at my badge car".
 
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understeer = the enemy

not sure why you would want to make it even worse with wider back tires. The fun of a RWD car is being able to kick the tail out.

thats what the power is for.......


Wow if that isn't a red flag I don't know what is. Hopefully you won't find anymore "weak links" before the months over.

I'd hate to see an inferior German car if these are "teh bestest look at my badge car".

shit happens.

my wifes car had the AC compressor take a shit after about 10k miles. we havent had single other problem and its almost at 40K now
 
thats what the power is for.......




shit happens.

my wifes car had the AC compressor take a shit after about 10k miles. we havent had single other problem and its almost at 40K now

But you always hear about how superior the "luxury" cars are but they sure tend to break down a lot and when they do they cost a fortune. I'll take an American sports car and consider it a luxury that I'm not on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck.
 
The fun of a 375whp+ DD is being able to floor it and make people shit their pants. It's intoxicating how easy it is to make power in this car for sure. This combined with all the available suspension options and such makes it hard not to want to go crazy. At the end of the day though, this is supposed to be the DD. The Corvette will be for kicking the tail out. I have to be patient 😛

375hp...at the wheels....say what?

That seems a little unrealistic, 320-330 is probably much closer to reality without meth, on pump gas, off the shelf tune, and with stock downpipes.

My friend has a JB4 on his 2008 and if he was putting out that kind of power he'd be kicking my AMG's ass and he can't. He can pull half a length on me to 70 or so and then I reel him back in and his advantage is almost entirely in the first 60 ft because I can't get traction.

Maybe there are new maps that are better that he doesn't have, not claiming to be an N54 guru but that 375whp number seems a bit optimistic.
 
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