Piston Ring Repair

[Jimzz]

Suppose you paid 2K and get this repaired. Do you get a specific warranty that the oil consumption would be reduced to less than 1Qt per 5K miles? I am betting they will not put any numbers down. You will have no recourse if they botched up this job.

Either have them cover the entire job or find some "miracle cures" or live with it.

I would not be surprised the quote is for a new/reman short block. If so those do carry warranties like 1 year and certain mileage.

 

[ManyBeers]

I have a '07 Chevy Avalanche, it's 4x4, thus has flex fuel, which means it has the active fuel management. If you are not familiar, Chevy has an issue on this year and probably more with the AFM burning oil.

I've found their service bulletins about possible patches, but what it comes down to is (as I understand it) is they screwed up the machining on the piston rings. As such my truck burns roughly 1 quart of oil every 1,000 miles.

All this is after having my mechanic review the engine to find out about where the oil was going (no leaks) and then taking it to the dealership to have them do an oil consumption test, which involved them doing an oil change and have me come back every 1000 miles to check the dip stick. Initially the dealership said they submitted the results to GM and GM told them my truck was "with in spec".

Not happy with this answer I contacted Chevy direct and after dealing with them the dealership called me back telling me to fix the problem they have to do the piston ring repair and would split the cost with me 45/55, with the 55% on my end. The work is estimated to be about $3800, so my out of pocket is looking to be about $2,090. The amount to do the repair may change after I take it in for a final review for an estimate on the quote, these were just estimates. My mechanic at the onset said the work would cost about $4,000, so it does seem in line.

A little more information, early in the vehicle's life (I bought the truck new and am the only owner) I used Blackstone Lab's for about 3 oil tests. Each test showed a high amount of metal in the oil. I asked them what I should do about it, but they said short of an engine tear down, there wasn't much else to do other than monitor it. The truck has always consumed oil, it has just become much more apparent because I have driven a lot more for work in the last 6 months. When I notified the dealership to do the testing the truck had 60,000 miles on it, but was outside of the 5 year window for the warranty.

I feel this is not a warranty, but quality issue with the truck. I guess that would be up for debate but I am trying to decide if I should:

1) Continue to push GM, after say providing the test reports and emails from Blackstone Labs showing this was an issue during the warranty period; coupled with the fact it is a problem on that year for any engine with AFM, they should pay the full cost to fix it
2) Feel lucky they are willing to pay for almost half of the repair work and get it done
3) Feel bitter they won't pay for it, don't get the repair, continue to add oil and eventually get a new vehicle and never buy anything GM again

The truck is paid in full so not having a car payment is nice. Finally the wife is due for a new car and wants an Acadia, but depending on the fall out with my truck I've told that may not happen and she may have choose another manufacturer/model.

Sounds top me like you average 12,000 miles a year. That's 1 quart of oil per month average. Keep the truck if it runs fine and throw in a quart of oil once a month. Use the money you save from not doing the repair and apply it to your wifes new car.

 

[RPD]

I am amazed that they're willing to pay any part of the repair.

Curious that you didn't mention how many miles are on the vehicle..?



1qt/1000 miles is excessive but within most manufacturer's limits.

As another poster stated, nissan has a long-running history of major oil consumption issues with their 3.5l VQ engines, and they tell anyone out of warranty to take a hike. Even in warranty, they blame driving habits.. break-in methods.. oil change intervals or who changed the oil.. any aftermarket modifications... they do anything they possibly can to avoid paying out on it.

Truck has 72k miles on it now. I did not drive that much the first 5 years, averaged 9,000miles a year on it, but the last 6-7months I drive about 350miles a week.

I am also worried to about what happens if after the repair it somehow gets worse, what's my recourse?

As far as the warranty/quality designation, I do work in sales and in my world warranty is the product either failed or doesn't work as it was sold in the warranty period while being used correctly. Quality is when technically the product may run, sounds like shit, looks like it or continually has problems not related to the operation of the unit. In this case because so many engines have had a problem, it's a quality issue. If it was a much lower % one could chalk it up to warranty.

 

[RPD]

I didn't realize how common of a issue cars burning oil was, I thought it was something old cars built before the 70's had.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

I didn't realize how common of a issue cars burning oil was, I thought it was something old cars built before the 70's had.

I don't think it's all that common.

The only large issues I've heard of are the VQ HO 3.5, every nissan 4.5 ever made, and the GM LS with the cylinder deactivation gets talked about now and then.

Personally, my suspicion is that a lot of the smaller random problems have to do with break in. People not varying RPMs on new motors, lugging down the engine, being a bit too gentle with them and the rings don't seat.. that sort of thing.

Now the nissan 3.5/4.5 is in my opinion some sort of design flaw. Especially the 4.5. A long time ago I was looking at the 08-09-ish m45, and the forums were overrun with people with OCI. There were threads where they could not find anyone who had made 100k miles without having an engine swap. It was unbelievable how many issues they had.

 

[phucheneh]

I'm not sure I even believe break-in...I've been rolling over the whole 'stuck rings' thing in my mind, and it seems like a feasible explanation for most of these issues. Maybe break-in plays a part in that...well, I know it does. But I don't think it's as simple as 'well, break-in failed, enjoy burning oil.'

Honestly, on a professional level, this is COMPLETELY foreign to me (please, people, hold your 'it's because you suck!' comments ;P). Sometimes I can chalk things up to coincidence...I've seen multiple instances of quirky problems that some may never see, and I'm never surpised when someone says 'wait, you've never dealt with [such-and-such] on [a certain car] before?!' It's not something to feel bad about. You learn and move on.

The point, though, is I wonder if the issues leading to massive oil consumption like this are more region/climate-specific. Yeah, GM 'seeded' the problem with their cylinder deactivation, but maybe it's one specific set of circumstances...like 1) you live in a very cold climate 2) your car idles far more than most and 3) you're a pretty tame driver.

I really do think the OP should try some cleaning techniques. The stuff people pipe down a motor to claim to clean the intake, throttle, valves, or injectors...I commonly call BS on that. But I know for damn sure that you can clean combustion chambers and, by association, you should be able to do something to pistons/rings/lands. It may be difficult if it is truly an oil control (bottom) piston ring problem...if the compression (top 2) rings are being overwhelmed by oil because of a stuck bottom ring, but still able to do a good job of sealing compression (...the oil actually helps), it's probably going to be very hard to do anything for said bottom ring. But it's worth a try.

I would get on one of those 'motor oil porn' forums and see if those guys have anything to see. What I would mostly be looking for- the most detergent-heavy oil that money can buy. And I'd do a bunch of short interval changes with it. I would not be afraid to also try a personal favorite trick- ATF in the oil. But I know that's kind of a shady 'some old man swears by this but it seems dumb' kinda trick. My feeling is that it's not going to do any more harm than any of the junk additives people are always putting in their oil; and I've seen it do a LOT of good for desludging motors. It's like heavy duty wash cycle for your crankcase.

Combine that with a treatment with your induction cleaner of choice...maybe multiple treatments using multiple approaches, even. ATF is a common rec, there, too. Water may well be the best ('steam clean' method). Or just try a brand-name cleaner...again, I'd say 'solvent-heavy.' Some of those off-the-shelf induction cleaners seem more like oil...I'd instead for one of the thin ones with the lovely pungent chemical smell.

And get a proper IV drip to administer any of the above. And don't do it at idle.

 

[phucheneh]

Also, my apologies for multiple wall-o-texts. Some problems just pique my interest and I really do want to give good, thorough input that I feel will be helpful. I know it's odd to have moved from the topic of 'sue the fuckers!' to 'spend hours doing these things that may or may not help,' but my understanding of the topic at hand has simply been evolving as I look into it more.

As I commonly say, be wary of those that claim to know everything. I plainly admit that I do not and can only offer my thoughts based on personal knowledge and experience. I will not lead anyone towards anything disastrous, but I also can never make guarantees for positive results. I know some think I'm an arrogant windbag, but meh...this is how I am in shops, too. Some people get mad at the amount of information I will provide on a repair order...I say 'better to have noted everything,' as opposed to the illiterate wrench-monkeys that just write 'NEED [PART]'.

 

[boomerang]

But I know for damn sure that you can clean combustion chambers and, by association, you should be able to do something to pistons/rings/lands.

When I started dating the woman who eventually became my wife she was driving a '85 Olds Cutlass with a 3.8. A motor that was very reliable. She had bought the car used so the history on it was not known.

When I first took a look under the hood, the air cleaner housing had a pool of oil in it. Among other things, I changed the PVC valve and hoped for the best. Checking it about 500 miles later, there was a much smaller amount of oil in the housing and the air filter was once again ruined. I decided to put a can of Rislone in the crankcase. 500 miles later and for the rest of the time she owned it, the air cleaner housing stayed perfectly dry and she of course was amazed at how much power the car now had and how well it ran etc. The car had sticky rings and the Rislone freed them up. Very inexpensive repair. Despite what many think, not every product out there is snake oil.

Long way to say that yes, there is a way to free up sticky rings short of a teardown. Whether the current Rislone product is the same as the current product I can't say. The one I purchased eons ago specifically said right on it that it was for sticky valves, lifters and rings.

 

[nedfunnell]

Saturns suffer from incredibly bad motor oil consumption, due to a design flaw which provided no escape path for oil to drain from the oil control ring. Oil coked up there and stuck the rings, leading to 1qt/400 mile consumption. Saturn aficionados swear by an "MMO Soak", that is, Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders, allowed to soak overnight.

 

[lakedude]

I'm not normally a fan of additives but in this case what do you have to lose? Might as well try the MMO or some similar product.

 

[Meghan54]

I've found a Seafoam treatment is very effective at freeing up sticking rings, as long as you can stand "smoking" up the neighborhood for a few minutes.

 

[RPD]

I've found a Seafoam treatment is very effective at freeing up sticking rings, as long as you can stand "smoking" up the neighborhood for a few minutes.

I thought that is only helpful on engine's with a ton of miles.

I'm really torn on this matter. On one hand I originally wanted to keep this truck for a long time but with this engine issue I've kinda soured on it. If I decide to get a new vehicle in the next 2 years I could live with just adding 1qt per 1,000miles, but I don't know if it will get worse over time.

 

[phucheneh]

I think utilizing some of the recommendations offered will not only keep it from getting worse, but make it better. Maybe 10% better, maybe 95% better. Hard to say, which is why the general sentiment is 'couldn't hurt, might as well try.'

 

[pauldun170]

I thought that is only helpful on engine's with a ton of miles.

I'm really torn on this matter. On one hand I originally wanted to keep this truck for a long time but with this engine issue I've kinda soured on it. If I decide to get a new vehicle in the next 2 years I could live with just adding 1qt per 1,000miles, but I don't know if it will get worse over time.

1. You have an opportunity on a rebuild at a discounted rate
2. You can spend a lot of money replacing the truck
3. You can ignore it and add oil every 1000 miles
4. Dick around with home remedies

If you want to keep the truck a long time, what's 2K spread out over the length of expected ownership?

07-06-01-007F

Date: December 10, 2009

Subject: Excessive Engine Oil Consumption (Verify Condition, Inspect Valve Stems, Replace Cylinder Heads if Necessary)

Models:
2006-2007 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado Classic, Suburban, Tahoe
2006-2007 GMC Sierra Classic, Yukon, Yukon XL
Equipped with 4.8L or 5.3L V8 Engine RPOs LR4, LM7, L59
Please Refer to GMVIS

Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to remove the reference in Step 6 to servicing the complete cylinder head as an assembly. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 07-06-01-007E (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).

Condition

Some customers may comment on excessive engine oil consumption. The rate of oil consumption described may usually be around 0.946 liter (1 quart) of engine oil in 805 to 1125 km (500 to 700 mi). This usually occurs on low mileage engines.

Cause

This condition may be caused by a nick in one or more valve stems.

Correction

Important
If one or more damaged valve stems are identified in one head, BOTH heads MUST be replaced.

1. Complete the current SI diagnosis for any symptoms found. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-06-01-011F for Information on Engine Oil Consumption Guidelines.
2. If excessive oil consumption has been verified, all of the valve stems need to be inspected for damage. One or more of the valve stems may be nicked.
3. After removing the valve cover, all of the rocker arms need to be loosened to assure the valves are closed.
4. Depending on the location, it is possible to see a nicked valve stem through the valve spring coil (a mirror and flashlight will be required). In some cases the valve spring may need to be removed. Examples of a nicked valve stem are shown above.
5. A valve stem nick can occur in any 360 degree area due to valve rotation, so each valve stem must be examined carefully.
6. If the engine oil consumption is excessive, and one or more nicked valve stems have been found, the cylinder heads will need to be replaced.
Refer to Cylinder Head Replacement - Left Side and Cylinder Head Replacement - Right Side in SI.


Warranty Information

 

[pauldun170]

Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-011E

Date: December 18, 2008

Subject:
Information on Engine Oil Consumption Guidelines

Models:
1998-2009 GM Passenger Cars and Gasoline Powered Light Duty Trucks Under 8500 LB GVW (Including Saturn)

2003-2009 HUMMER H2
2006-2009 HUMMER H3
2005-2009 Saab 9-7X

Supercede:

This bulletin is being revised to update model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-06-01-011D (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).

All engines require oil to lubricate and protect the load bearing and internal moving parts from wear including cylinder walls, pistons and piston rings. When a piston moves down its cylinder, a thin film of oil is left on the cylinder wall. During the power stroke, part of this oil layer is consumed in the combustion process. As a result, varying rates of oil consumption are accepted as normal in all engines.

Oil Consumption

The accepted rate of oil consumption for engines used in the vehicles referenced is 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi).

Important: Certain models have a new GM Extended Warranty. Please refer to the appropriate Owner's Manual for warranty information.

This rate only applies to personal use vehicles, under warranty, that are driven in a non-aggressive manner and maintained in accordance with the appropriate maintenance schedule, with less than 58,000 km (36,000 mi), or 80,450 km (50,000 mi) for Cadillac, driven at legal speeds in an unloaded (for trucks) condition.

Important: This rate does not apply to vehicles that are driven in an aggressive manner, at high RPM, high speeds, or in a loaded condition (for trucks). Oil consumption for vehicles driven under these conditions will be more.

Many factors can affect a customer's concern with oil consumption. Driving habits and vehicle maintenance vary from owner to owner. Thoroughly evaluate each case before deciding whether the vehicle in question has abnormal engine oil consumption.

Gasket and External Leaks

Inspect the oil pan and engine covers for leakage due to over-tightened, damaged, or out of place gaskets. Inspect oil lines and fittings for signs of leakage.

Improper Reading of the [COLOR=blue !important][FONT=inherit !important][COLOR=blue !important][FONT=inherit !important]Oil [/FONT][COLOR=blue !important][FONT=inherit !important]Level[/FONT][/COLOR][/FONT][/COLOR][/COLOR] Indicator (Dipstick)

Verify that the dipstick tube is fully seated in the block. When checking the oil level, make sure the dipstick is wiped clean before taking an oil level reading and fully depress the dipstick until the shoulder bottoms out on the dipstick tube. The dipstick should be the proper part number for the engine/vehicle that is being checked.

Notice: Operating your vehicle with an oil level that is below the minimum level indicated on the engine oil dipstick can result in severe engine damage. Repairs resulting from operating an engine with insufficient oil are not covered under the terms of the New Vehicle Warranty.

Important: Refer to Owner Manual in SI for checking and adding engine oil.

Not Waiting Long Enough After Running Engine to [COLOR=blue !important][FONT=inherit !important][COLOR=blue !important][FONT=inherit !important]Check [/FONT][COLOR=blue !important][FONT=inherit !important]Oil[/FONT][/COLOR][/FONT][/COLOR][/COLOR] Level

Some engines require more time than others for the oil to drain back into the crankcase. To assure a sufficient amount of oil has drained back to the crankcase, and an accurate reading can be obtained, the vehicle should be allowed to sit for at least 15 minutes, after the engine has been shut off, before taking an oil level reading. In order to ensure accurate results, the temperature of the oil should be close to the same temperature as the last time the oil level was checked.

Important: This does not apply to some Corvette ZO6 equipped with the 7.0L LS7 engine (dry sump). Follow the instructions in the Owner's Manual for checking the oil in this application.

Improper Oil Fill After an Oil Change

Following an oil change, verify that the proper amount and type of oil was put in the engine and that the oil level on the dipstick is not above the full mark or below the add marks. Refer to the Owner's Manual or Service Manual for information on recommended oil quantity, viscosity, and quality.

Aggressive Driving, High Speed or High RPM Driving

Aggressive driving and/or continuous driving at high speeds/high RPMs will increase oil consumption. Because this may not always be an everyday occurrence, it is hard to determine exactly how much the oil economy will be affected.

A higher rate of oil consumption is normal for vehicles equipped with manual transmissions that are driven aggressively. By "aggressive," we mean operation at high RPM (3,000 RPM to redline), with frequent use of engine braking (using the engine to slow the vehicle). Vehicles that are driven aggressively may consume engine oil at a rate of up to 0.946 L (1 quart) every 805 km (500 mi). This is normal for a vehicle that is driven aggressively. No repair is necessary. This characteristic does, however, require the owner to check the engine oil level at sufficiently frequent intervals, especially when driving aggressively, to assure the oil level remains within the recommended operating range. As the Owner's Manual recommends, you should check the oil level every time you get fuel.

Towing or Heavy Usage

Towing a trailer will increase oil consumption and may cause oil consumption to fall below the normal accepted rate referenced in this bulletin for an unloaded vehicle in a personal use application. Large frontal area trailers will further increase the work required from the engine, especially at highway speeds, and thus increases the rate of oil consumption.

Crankcase Ventilation System

Verify that the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is operating properly. Blockages, restrictions, or damage to the PCV system can result in increased oil use.

Oil Dilution (Fuel and Water)

On vehicles that are usually driven short distances, less than 8 km (5 mi), especially in colder weather, unburned fuel and condensation generated from cold engine operation may not get hot enough to evaporate out of the oil. When this occurs, the dipstick may indicate that the oil level is over-full. Subsequent driving on a trip of sufficient length to enable normal engine operating temperature for 30 minutes or more, in order to vaporize excess [COLOR=blue !important][FONT=inherit !important][COLOR=blue !important][FONT=inherit !important]moisture[/FONT][/FONT][/COLOR][/COLOR] and fuel, may give the customer the impression of excessive oil consumption.

Engine Temperature

If an engine is run at overheated temperatures (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual) for more than brief periods, oil will oxidize at a faster than normal rate. In addition, gaskets may distort, piston rings may stick, and excessive wear may result. Verify that all cooling system components are in proper working order.

Engine Wear

Piston scuffing, excessive piston-to-wall clearance, tapered or out of round cylinders, worn, damaged or improperly installed valve guides, seals and piston rings will all cause an increase in oil consumption.

Measurement of Oil Consumption

Engines require a period of time to BREAK IN so that moving parts are properly seated. Therefore, oil economy should not be tested until the vehicle has accumulated at least 6400 km (4000 mi). An exception would be allowed only if an engine is reported to be using more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 1600 km (1000 mi).

1. Verify that the engine has no external leaks. Repair as necessary.

2. Verify that the engine is at normal operating temperature (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual).

3. Park the vehicle on a level surface.

4. Wait at least 15 minutes, after the engine is shut off, before checking the oil level to make sure that the oil has had time to drain back into the crankcase.

5. Verify that the oil level is at, but not above, the full mark on the dipstick, and that the proper viscosity and quality oil are being used as recommended in the Owner's Manual.








6. Record the vehicle mileage, date, and exact oil level on the form shown above.

7. Ask the customer to verify the oil level, each time the vehicle is fueled, following steps 16 and return the vehicle to the dealership if the oil level is found at or below the add mark, 0.946 liter (1 qt) low. If the oil level remains above the add mark, the customer should continue to operate the vehicle and verify the engine oil level until 3200 km (2000 mi) has accumulated before returning to the dealership for a final evaluation.

8. If the final evaluation shows that the engine uses more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi), follow the published symptom diagnostics as described in the appropriate Service Manual. If the oil consumption test shows that the engine uses less than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi), explain to the customer that their engine meets the guidelines for oil consumption.

 

[pauldun170]

I'd forget the home remedies.
Fix it right or trade it in.

The problem is over active lifters on the clys that drop out causes oil to be suck threw the internal pvc vavle in the vavle cover. Then your cat burns up the oil thats why do dont see a leak or smoke. Cause the cat oprates at high temp it Burn the oil right up. They might try lifters and new vale cover some times it takes care of the problem and sometime it dont. IF that dont fix the problem next step they will replace [COLOR=blue !important][FONT=inherit !important][COLOR=blue !important][FONT=inherit !important]your [/FONT][COLOR=blue !important][FONT=inherit !important]heads[/FONT][/COLOR][/FONT][/COLOR][/COLOR]. Note they will not repair anying thin inless your oil lost test shows your loosing more then 2-1/2 quarts or more at 1000mi mark from your oil change. hope this helps

 

[COPOHawk]

Split the cost...it definitely won't hurt resale value. This issue is defintely not normal...it sucks that it happened to you...but a bad 5.3L motor is souring you on the truck? Really? You know how many of them were produced, right?

I have some friends who work at dealerships for Ford, Chevy and Chrysler...I asked them what the standard is...they agreed it that while it sucks, 1Q per 1,000 miles is recognized as acceptable (it wouldn't be to me). The fact that they are willing to split the repair with you is not normal practice...take the deal.


Just out of curiousity...what would you you replace the truck with?

 

[Meghan54]

I thought that is only helpful on engine's with a ton of miles.

I'm really torn on this matter. On one hand I originally wanted to keep this truck for a long time but with this engine issue I've kinda soured on it. If I decide to get a new vehicle in the next 2 years I could live with just adding 1qt per 1,000miles, but I don't know if it will get worse over time.

Have used it on both vehicles (two cars and one truck) and on a ton of outboards, all with good success. Mileage was irrelevant. It just cleans the carbon, unsticks the rings. Really effective, esp. in the outboards which were all two-strokes. Carbon builds up constantly in them. Seafoam decarbonizes them very effectively. Regained power, better throttle response, better compression---shown through compression testing and top speed attained.

What I'd do, tho, is fix the engine. The 5.3L is one stout engine. I've heard of the AFM problems, but if the repair fixes the oil burning, and from what I've read on several GM forums, it does, I'd spend the $$ and get it fixed. Then, just drive the truck for another 100k miles. It should last well beyond 200k with routine care.

I know I love the 5.3L in my '03 Silverado.

 

[Pacfanweb]

Have used it on both vehicles (two cars and one truck) and on a ton of outboards, all with good success. Mileage was irrelevant. It just cleans the carbon, unsticks the rings. Really effective, esp. in the outboards which were all two-strokes. Carbon builds up constantly in them. Seafoam decarbonizes them very effectively. Regained power, better throttle response, better compression---shown through compression testing and top speed attained.

What I'd do, tho, is fix the engine. The 5.3L is one stout engine. I've heard of the AFM problems, but if the repair fixes the oil burning, and from what I've read on several GM forums, it does, I'd spend the $$ and get it fixed. Then, just drive the truck for another 100k miles. It should last well beyond 200k with routine care.

I know I love the 5.3L in my '03 Silverado.

I drive an 04 Suburban with the 5.3. About 195k on it now. Still runs great. It'll need a quart of oil when there's about 25% left on the oil life, so I just change it then. How many miles that is varies, but it's up around 5k miles.

 

[RPD]

I'm mixed on what I'd get to replace it. I wish domestic guys would already have their lighter duty desiel models out. I know Nissan is working with Cummings on their Titan refresh and my 350z had zero issues.

I do think I'll do the repair, as that is something that would help the resale and I'll just hang onto it for awhile, at least another 2 years.

 

[Meghan54]

I drive an 04 Suburban with the 5.3. About 195k on it now. Still runs great. It'll need a quart of oil when there's about 25% left on the oil life, so I just change it then. How many miles that is varies, but it's up around 5k miles.

While I've only had our Silverado for ~20K miles so far, on third oil change and have yet to add oil between changes. The oil life indicator has me changing at 5K....I've stretched it to 7500K using synthetic oil.

But even at 7500K miles, it hasn't used a quart during that interval. "Knock on wood."

 

[phucheneh]

I can't see paying to do the repair without the ability for the dealer to disable AFM. If you do it with some aftermarket stuff, they may not give you any kind of warranty on said repair. And quite frankly, I would not trust 99% of dealer mechanics to re-ring an engine. Not one damn bit...that's the reason a lot of manufacturers will only warranty short blocks. I'd also question the condition of the cylinder walls.

And if you don't disable AFM, you're setting yourself up for the same problem down the road.

I would really try some cleaning. It's not an exact science, but it's not just worthless shadetree dicking around, either. With enough effort, stuck (via carbon buildup) rings can be freed.

Above all else, I'd hesitate to put a dime towards the repair without some conclusive testing. Again- you should only show the problem on the deactivated cylinders. And I'd wager it would actually look okay on compression and leakdown tests, as the supposed issue is the oil ring not scraping the cylinder walls clean of oil on the downstroke...I'm willfully going back on what I said about the engine having a shitton of blowby. Poor oil control, rather than actual cylinder and ring wear, should actually result in a decent seal.

Such can also be confirmed with a manometer on the dipstick tube (measures crankcase pressure).

 

[lakedude]

This:

http://www.le-international.com/uploads/documents/072_Piston Ring & Cylinder.pdf

 

[lakedude]

Also since this is your money we are talking about you should explore low cost options first even if the odds of them working are not that great. If you blow $8 on a treatment who cares?

 

[RPD]

Why wouldn't the dealer do a good job? They've already documented the oil consumption, if it gets worse it's on them to fix it.