Oil Changes

[Aimster]

I have 100k on my car and change my oil every 4k. Syntethic

Only because the damn thing takes 8 quarts and the filter is 12bucks., otherwise 3k

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: Insane3D

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: doze
Once you start using synthetic oil you pretty much have to keep on using it.

This isn't true, and hasn't been true for at least a decade, probably two.

For a street-driven, naturally aspirated car that has its oil changed on the manufacturer's interval, there's no reason to use synthetic. Any regular oil will be fine and will not cause problems for the reasonable expected life of the vehicle (300,000 miles+).

Use the basic oil, change it as the manual recommends. Just make sure that you are using the correct weight and that you do not use FRAM filters.

ZV

While it may not be needed, that's not to say there aren't benefits to it, nor will it hurt anything.

It won't "hurt", but the benefits will not be apparent within the normal useful life of the car (under 300,000 miles). There's absolutely no reason to spend the extra money for a naturally-aspirated, liquid-cooled street car. None. Period.

ZV

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: OS
i've used synthetic since my car was broken in to 90K and when you look inside my oil cap, the valvetrain looks new, shiny, silver.

Look inside other cars using only dino and there's some varnish, if the car was not regularly maintained, it is quite brown inside even with about half the mileage.

word on the street now is mobil 1 has gone "fake" synthetic like syntec (no GC), etc. all the other retail brands.

My first car was an '88 Accord. My family (was my parents' car first) put 217,000 miles on it before I sold it. The entire life was using dino oil changed between 3,000 and 4,000 miles. When I did the last oil change before I sold it, the valvetrain was still shiny and silver and the car consumed no measureable amount of oil between oil changes.

Any car that's taken care of will be fine on dino oil for any reasonable expectation of its useful life.

ZV

 

[Insane3D]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
There's absolutely no reason to spend the extra money for a naturally-aspirated, liquid-cooled street car. None. Period.

ZV

How about extended oil change intervals?

 

[chrisms]

Synthetic every 3k for me, but that is because my truck leaks oil and by about 3k it gets too low. Otherwise I'd do 4k. I'm also on a mission to see how far I can get it, there are 155,000 miles on her now and I think with the right care she can make 300,000 easy.

 

[OrganizedChaos]

i do less than 5k a year. so i just use the cheapest crap i can find and change it every 6 months.

 

[zerocool84]

if you are worried about anything just do what the owner manual says because you seem like you are worried cause you are asking ATOT. mine as well change it yourself because it doesnt take that long and you will save money and chicks will dig it cus you can tell them oh sorry i cant see you right now cus im working on the car right now

 

[thehstrybean]

Originally posted by: Insane3D
Gotcha...

Well, since my interval will be so short, I'm thinking it's a safe bet that any decent synthetic will be fine. I just got back from Advance with two cases (12 bottles) of the Penzoil Platinum for ~$34...not bad..not bad at all. When I told the guy that was just enough for two oil changes he was like..what kind of car do you have.

12 is 2 changes for me too. I wonder about the people in my local Advance. Nice guys, but some are dumber than bricks. They can help me pick out a cherry bomb muffle and some hax lights, but when I go for oil, they run. WTF? Cherry bomb and LEDs suck on a Cherokee...

Now give me a flowmaster and we'll talk...

 

[OS]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: OS
i've used synthetic since my car was broken in to 90K and when you look inside my oil cap, the valvetrain looks new, shiny, silver.

Look inside other cars using only dino and there's some varnish, if the car was not regularly maintained, it is quite brown inside even with about half the mileage.

word on the street now is mobil 1 has gone "fake" synthetic like syntec (no GC), etc. all the other retail brands.

My first car was an '88 Accord. My family (was my parents' car first) put 217,000 miles on it before I sold it. The entire life was using dino oil changed between 3,000 and 4,000 miles. When I did the last oil change before I sold it, the valvetrain was still shiny and silver and the car consumed no measureable amount of oil between oil changes.

Any car that's taken care of will be fine on dino oil for any reasonable expectation of its useful life.

ZV

Possibly because you live in a colder part of the country

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: OS

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: OS
i've used synthetic since my car was broken in to 90K and when you look inside my oil cap, the valvetrain looks new, shiny, silver.

Look inside other cars using only dino and there's some varnish, if the car was not regularly maintained, it is quite brown inside even with about half the mileage.

word on the street now is mobil 1 has gone "fake" synthetic like syntec (no GC), etc. all the other retail brands.

My first car was an '88 Accord. My family (was my parents' car first) put 217,000 miles on it before I sold it. The entire life was using dino oil changed between 3,000 and 4,000 miles. When I did the last oil change before I sold it, the valvetrain was still shiny and silver and the car consumed no measureable amount of oil between oil changes.

Any car that's taken care of will be fine on dino oil for any reasonable expectation of its useful life.

ZV

Possibly because you live in a colder part of the country

Cold temps are actually harder on dino oil unless you get above the 100s. Ohio saw 10s-20s in the winter and 85-95 in the summer. It's not like it was a nice, constant 50 degrees where engines are really happy.

I'm not arguing that synthetics aren't "better", just that the "better-ness" doesn't come into play within the normal operating parameters of a street car.

ZV

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: Insane3D

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
There's absolutely no reason to spend the extra money for a naturally-aspirated, liquid-cooled street car. None. Period.

ZV

How about extended oil change intervals?

By the time you add in the cost of the oil analysis (not to mention the inconvenience), you're back at square one. This isn't a case where you'll save money in the long term by using synthetic. Synthetic would need to more than double the change interval to even break even. And that's neglecting the fact that even with an extended oil change interval, you still need to change the filter at the normal interval.

ZV

 

[OS]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: OS

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: OS
i've used synthetic since my car was broken in to 90K and when you look inside my oil cap, the valvetrain looks new, shiny, silver.

Look inside other cars using only dino and there's some varnish, if the car was not regularly maintained, it is quite brown inside even with about half the mileage.

word on the street now is mobil 1 has gone "fake" synthetic like syntec (no GC), etc. all the other retail brands.

My first car was an '88 Accord. My family (was my parents' car first) put 217,000 miles on it before I sold it. The entire life was using dino oil changed between 3,000 and 4,000 miles. When I did the last oil change before I sold it, the valvetrain was still shiny and silver and the car consumed no measureable amount of oil between oil changes.

Any car that's taken care of will be fine on dino oil for any reasonable expectation of its useful life.

ZV

Possibly because you live in a colder part of the country

Cold temps are actually harder on dino oil unless you get above the 100s. Ohio saw 10s-20s in the winter and 85-95 in the summer. It's not like it was a nice, constant 50 degrees where engines are really happy.

I'm not arguing that synthetics aren't "better", just that the "better-ness" doesn't come into play within the normal operating parameters of a street car.

ZV

you obviously don't know that socal usage pattern can be basically 1 or 2 hours of idling in traffic, in 100F+ temps, every day, for months during the summer.

 

[SampSon]

I use regular old dino. I change my oil just about every month, so it's cost effective.

 

[Insane3D]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
By the time you add in the cost of the oil analysis (not to mention the inconvenience), you're back at square one. This isn't a case where you'll save money in the long term by using synthetic. Synthetic would need to more than double the change interval to even break even. And that's neglecting the fact that even with an extended oil change interval, you still need to change the filter at the normal interval.

ZV

Well, I respect your opinion, but I also think you are stating your personal feelings about synthetic as fact. To simply say synthetic has no benefit is simply false IMO.

There are so many variables involved....

As for your feelings on a extended change interval, IMO...it's still a benefit whether you think it's worth it or not.

 

[OS]

Originally posted by: Insane3D
Well, I respect your opinion, but I also think you are stating your personal feelings about synthetic as fact. To simply say synthetic has no benefit is simply false IMO.

There are so many variables involved....

As for your feelings on a extended change interval, IMO...it's still a benefit whether you think it's worth it or not.

what maybe of interest to you is honda basically requires use of synthetic oil for the RDX turbo motor. I recall the main reason was for deposit control.

The spec they had was HTO-06 and initially only M1 met the requirement, but I believe PP will soon be on the approved list.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot...l/Files/Acura_RDX_Mobil_1_Brochure.pdf

 

[M2008S]

whats wrong with fram filters?

i use acdelco or regular crap anyways. not worth the money in a 92 chevy V6 pickemup with 233k

 

[Insane3D]

Originally posted by: OS

what maybe of interest to you is honda basically requires use of synthetic oil for the RDX turbo motor. I recall the main reason was for deposit control.

The spec they had was HTO-06 and initially only M1 met the requirement, but I believe PP will soon be on the approved list.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot...l/Files/Acura_RDX_Mobil_1_Brochure.pdf

Oh, I agree, and I think ZV specifically said it was a waste on NA cars...

I think on a FI car he would agree synthetic is not a bad idea...but I can't speak for him.

 

[OS]

Originally posted by: Insane3D

Originally posted by: OS

what maybe of interest to you is honda basically requires use of synthetic oil for the RDX turbo motor. I recall the main reason was for deposit control.

The spec they had was HTO-06 and initially only M1 met the requirement, but I believe PP will soon be on the approved list.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot...l/Files/Acura_RDX_Mobil_1_Brochure.pdf

Oh, I agree, and I think ZV specifically said it was a waste on NA cars...

I think on a FI car he would agree synthetic is not a bad idea...but I can't speak for him.

I wasn't using that to make a jab at anyone, just that the RDX engine is similar to the Mazda 2.3L turbo, both turbo medium size 4 cylinder.

 

[CraigRT]

Originally posted by: shortspanishguy

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
do not use FRAM filters.

I second this.

Use Napa Gold. made by WIX last I checked. Good filters, good price.

 

[Insane3D]

Originally posted by: OS

I wasn't using that to make a jab at anyone, just that the RDX engine is similar to the Mazda 2.3L turbo, both turbo medium size 4 cylinder.

Oh, I know..and neither was I. I think we just have a difference of opinion in regards to synthetic oil, and that's fine.

Is the RDX motor Direct Injection?

 

[mrSHEiK124]

Originally posted by: giantpinkbunnyhead

Originally posted by: mrSHEiK124

Originally posted by: Insane3D
The MS6 comes with a syn blend from the factory. I'm having the dealership do the first change @ 1k miles to get all those break in metals out of there, then @ 3k I'm switching to Mobil 1 5w-30 and doing them myself. The interval in the manual is 5k miles because I meet some of the harsh driving conditions...short drives and I live in an environment where salt is in use. I'll probably just change it every 2500-3500 miles since it's a turbo car, and the peace of mind is cheap IMO. It's like $25 for 6 quarts of Mobil 1, and another $6 for a Mazda cartridge filter...

I keep my cars for 10-15 years, so it's worth it to me...

I'm probably going to be keeping my Altima for a while too, so I'm trying to do the most I can to extend its lifespan. If I want to avoid FRAM filters like the plague, are there any safe brands of filters to choose or safe places to find them?

Yes. use the OEM Nissan filters.

Where do I get those, the dealer?

BTW, excellent information in this thread. The only con I'm seeing for using synthetic over dino oil in a NA engine is price. I drive for around 25 miles at 70-80 MPH cruising speed on the highway, then run into stop and go traffic that never tops 40 MPH for another 25 miles every day, and then do the same in reverse to get home; in Florida weather. I don't think my wallet will blame me for spending a little extra to keep my car happy.

 

[mrSHEiK124]

Oh, and the Wikipedia page for synthetic oil says:

"and Mobil 1 contains only 5% PAO"

I think on the 3rd page you guys were talking about Mobil 1 not being a true synthetic or something, does that help?

 

[IHateMyJob2004]

I do mine every 7500 miles or so. Same for my wife's car.

I use synthetic.

I do it myself. 90K miles on the truck and no problems.

 

[Colt45]

I have a turbo car, with decent boost (14psi or so) and it gets to -40 here, so i think synthetic is a definite plus.

I had the engine open and it's virtually sludge free, even though its old - 175k mi.


I use Mobil 1 and Mann or Mahle filters..

 

[Vette73]

Originally posted by: M2008S
whats wrong with fram filters?

i use acdelco or regular crap anyways. not worth the money in a 92 chevy V6 pickemup with 233k

Fram is a very cheaply made filter of low quality. You can get better filters at a cheaper price.

Here is a thread about a Buy 1 get 1 free for Syn oil and good (i.e. NON-fram) oil filters.


http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview.aspx?catid=40&threadid=1994422