http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
There are other studies supporting the same evidence.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
There are other studies supporting the same evidence.
- Mar 6, 2004
- 11,488
- 2
- 0
I'm probably going to be keeping my Altima for a while too, so I'm trying to do the most I can to extend its lifespan. If I want to avoid FRAM filters like the plague, are there any safe brands of filters to choose or safe places to find them?
It's just another way of describing the filter media...nothing fancy about it.
To others here...not all cars have spin on filters. The Speed has a cartridge filter, and it has a plastic cover underneath the engine compartment, so it's a bit more involved. In mine, I need to open the drain plug on the cartridge housing, then take off the cap for the housing, and change the element and the o-rings. I actually like this way better because you can see your filter media and anything it's caught. I also like the cover underneath because it keeps all that road spray and crap out of the engine bay...but it can disguise leaks.
Also, I'm not a fan of ramps...but thats just me.
probably the best post in this 'yet another' oil thread. i used to be a BITOG nut for a couple years but then realized how cost-effective dyno and PAO synthetics and high-end filters weren't overall.
Purolator and Wix make good filters...and Mobil 1 makes their own filters, but they are a bit pricey. Purolators high end filter, the PureOne is supposed to be excellent as well. Are the stock Nissan ones expensive? Those should be good as well...and I think Napa's Gold line filters are made by Wix and good as well.
Jack stands, yes. Regular jacks (scissor jacks, butterfly jacks, are VERY unstable. Use stands). I use Quaker State 4x4 Synthetic in my Jeep. Get a new filter too. Fram is cheap but not the best.
You can get 5 quart jugs of Mobil 1 pretty cheap at wally world. I just got a jug of 5w-30 for $22. I would get a decent floor jack and a set of jack stands. Also make sure to find out the jacking points of your vehicle...it should be in the manual.
my BMW with synthetic recomends ever 15000 miles although the computer will adjust depending on the driving i do mostly motorway / freeway driving
OS
Lifer
- Oct 11, 1999
- 15,581
- 1
- 76
i've used synthetic since my car was broken in to 90K and when you look inside my oil cap, the valvetrain looks new, shiny, silver.
Look inside other cars using only dino and there's some varnish, if the car was not regularly maintained, it is quite brown inside even with about half the mileage.
word on the street now is mobil 1 has gone "fake" synthetic like syntec (no GC), etc. all the other retail brands.
Look inside other cars using only dino and there's some varnish, if the car was not regularly maintained, it is quite brown inside even with about half the mileage.
word on the street now is mobil 1 has gone "fake" synthetic like syntec (no GC), etc. all the other retail brands.
On my Mobil 1 bottle I just bought, it says explicitly "Fully Synthetic Motor Oil". If it was not true synthetic, wouldn't they violate truth in advertising laws? Why would they do this after many years of being highly regarded among synthetics?
Do you have any more info on this other than the "word on the street"?
Edit:
I'm reading a bit about it now on the BITOG forums, and it's really hard to tell exactly what's going on. The biggest thing people are howling about is the fact they changed to Group III, but it seems there are so many people on that forum obsessed with oil, that they are very set in their ways. Some seem to bash M1 because of it's new classification, some seem to like the new Penzoil Platinum, some will only use Redline or Amsoil. A lot of them though are looking for high oil change intervals of 10k+, where I imagine these differences are more important. Personally, I'm going to be changing at such a low interval (3k-ish) that I'm not particularly worried about using Mobil1.
SoulAssassin
Diamond Member
- Feb 1, 2001
- 6,135
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I think it's more like:
1. Go to auto parts and write a check for $50 dollars for oil, filter, kitty litter, hand cleaner and scented tree.
2. Discover that the used oil container is full. Instead of taking it back to O'Reilly to recycle, dump in hole in back yard.
3. Open a beer and drink it.
4. Jack car up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack stands.
5. Find jack stands under kid's pedal car.
6. In frustration, open another beer and drink it.
7. Place drain pan under engine.
8. Look for 9/16 box end wrench.
9. Give up and use crescent wrench.
10. Unscrew drain plug.
11. Drop drain plug in pan of hot oil; get hot oil on you in process.
12. Clean up.
13. Have another beer while oil is draining.
14. Look for oil filter wrench.
15. Give up; poke oil filter with screwdriver and twist it off.
16. Beer.
17. Buddy shows up; finish case with him. Finish oil change tomorrow.
18. Next day, drag pan full of old oil out from underneath car.
19. Throw kitty litter on oil spilled during step 18.
20. Beer. No, drank it all yesterday.
21. Walk to 7-11; buy beer.
22. Install new oil filter making sure to apply thin coat of clean oil to gasket first.
23. Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine.
24. Remember drain plug from step 11.
25. Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan.
26. Hurry to replace drain plug before the whole quart of fresh oil drains onto floor.
27. Slip with wrench and bang knuckles on frame.
28. Bang head on floor board in reaction.
29. Begin cussing fit.
30. Throw wrench.
31. Cuss and complain.
32. Clean up; apply Band-Aid to knuckle.
33. Beer.
34. Beer.
35. Dump in additional 4 quarts of oil.
36. Beer.
37. Lower car from jack stands
38. Accidentally crush one of the jack stands
39. Move car back to apply more kitty litter to fresh oil spilled during step 23.
40. Test drive car
41. Get pulled over; arrested for driving under the influence.
42. Car gets impounded.
43. Make bail; get car from impound yard.
Money Spent:
$50 parts
$12 beer
$75 replacement set of jack stands; hey the colors have to match!
$1000 Bail
$200 Impound and towing fee
Total: $1337
Here is a thread about a Buy 1 get 1 free for Syn oil and good (i.e. NON-fram) oil filters.
http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview.aspx?catid=40&threadid=1994422
http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview.aspx?catid=40&threadid=1994422
Thanks for the link! I go by an Advance on the way to work everyday...
I may have to pick up some of that PP synthetic at that price and give it a try...
OS
Lifer
- Oct 11, 1999
- 15,581
- 1
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you must not be familiar with the syntec lawsuit from maybe 10 years ago.
Once upon a time, M1 was group 4 oil, Castrol Syntec was group 3. The difference is group 3 is broken down from larger molecules (from crude oil), group 4 is made from smaller molecules.
Mobil sued Castrol over advertisting this group 3 oil as full synthetic, and Mobil lost. Until M1 gave in, all the other retail brand "synthetics" were also group 3.
Anyways, couple months ago some veep of hatco shot some M1 through a gas chromatograph, and said that M1 is mostly group 3 now. This correlates with how some people have noticed the spec list on M1 now often has worse numbers than a couple years ago.
So the mighty M1 is probably now the same type of oil that they once sued Castrol over not being real synthetic. It is more a complaint about principle than practical benefit. Group 3 can work fine, but basically there is nothing special about M1 over any other retail synthetic now.
Yeah, I was not familiar with that.
It still seems like they aren't made from conventional oil though...this was a response someone got from Mobil..
I'm heading up to Advance to get a couple cases of the Penzoil Platinum since it's on sale...
It still seems like they aren't made from conventional oil though...this was a response someone got from Mobil..
I'm heading up to Advance to get a couple cases of the Penzoil Platinum since it's on sale...
OS
Lifer
- Oct 11, 1999
- 15,581
- 1
- 76
It's not really conventional oil either of course, those are considered group I/II. Group III has additional processing that gives it qualities approaching a group IV. It's more a matter of pedigree than quantifiable benefit.
If you carefully consider the Mobil response, it might be construed as slippery worded. Note it does not say all PAO, only that it includes PAO. The amount of PAO used is not dislosed. And we've already established that any motor oil co can legally claim a group 3 is a "full synthetic".
Gotcha...
Well, since my interval will be so short, I'm thinking it's a safe bet that any decent synthetic will be fine. I just got back from Advance with two cases (12 bottles) of the Penzoil Platinum for ~$34...not bad..not bad at all. When I told the guy that was just enough for two oil changes he was like..what kind of car do you have.
Well, since my interval will be so short, I'm thinking it's a safe bet that any decent synthetic will be fine. I just got back from Advance with two cases (12 bottles) of the Penzoil Platinum for ~$34...not bad..not bad at all. When I told the guy that was just enough for two oil changes he was like..what kind of car do you have.
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