I agree. And, it's not expensive to have it done either. Like $10/a piece. AutoZone I know does it. Most parts stores can either do it or have it done.
Most parts stores don't turn rotors anymore. Advance I don't think ever did, autozone stopped a long time ago (with maybe a couple that MAY still do it), and the only napas I have seen that do that are ones that have a machine shop with them.
Sorry but check agian. They have the REAR rotors for $27. And Napa has the SAME Beck Arnley rotor that autozone has. I did not check advance so not sure what they have.
Is there a bolt holding the rotor on. Your hand is kinda in the way. USUALLY you take that bolt out and THEN use it to put in the slot you now need a bolt and it pushs it off.
I do not have my manuals unpacked yet so I do not have the thread numbers for you.
I do not have my manuals unpacked yet so I do not have the thread numbers for you.
Are you sure that big hub nut is actually holding the rotor on? Have you tried just yanking the thing off? The bolts should only be neccessary if the thing is really siezed on there.
That is a spindle nut and hold the CV joint to the spindle. It has nothing to do with the rotor. That mess's up a lot of peop;el that try and do their own brake job. Trust me, I had a car towed to me missing the spindle nut and the customer complaining that the rotor still will not come off.
Originally posted by: Marlin1975
That is a spindle nut and hold the CV joint to the spindle. It has nothing to do with the rotor. That mess's up a lot of peop;el that try and do their own brake job. Trust me, I had a car towed to me missing the spindle nut and the customer complaining that the rotor still will not come off.
That is what I thought. I have had to take those off with a breaker bar before when doing half axles on my civic.
Skoorb, just try yanking the thing off.
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300
This guy tells you exactly how to do it. Apparently, Nissan uses something called a torque member that may or may not be holding the rotor on.
This guy tells you exactly how to do it. Apparently, Nissan uses something called a torque member that may or may not be holding the rotor on.
Squirt some penatrating oil on the hub, and rap it with a hammer around the hub area. Use a rubber mallet right on the rotor to jar it loose. Don't be afraid to give it a few good wacks!
That rotor does look like it's in good condition. It certainly isn't small!
Those holes look to be about 10mm, but the hammer should do the trick. Now's the time to replace that stud, if you're heading back up to the store.
That rotor does look like it's in good condition. It certainly isn't small!
Those holes look to be about 10mm, but the hammer should do the trick. Now's the time to replace that stud, if you're heading back up to the store.
- Sep 29, 2000
- 70,150
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I'm not positive the huge nut is holding the rotor on, but it definitely looked like it...the haynes didn't mention taking it off, however. I tried whacking the rotor with my new rubber mallet, but I couldn't go hog on it because it's late and the garage door was open.
I just realized that in my pics the "broken bolt" to hold the wheel on the car isn't showing. Oops, but it was unrelated to this anyway.
I just realized that in my pics the "broken bolt" to hold the wheel on the car isn't showing. Oops, but it was unrelated to this anyway.
Buy New and Resurface the Old in case the new ones get warked. I personally keep 2 sets of rotors. That way I only have to pay for resurfacing, and not a brake job. I replace them myself when I change my brakes.
- Sep 29, 2000
- 70,150
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Based on comments here and that motorvate.ca it does indeed look like that huge ass nut should not be touched by me busted.JPG <- that is a pic of the broken bolt/stud. Ornery, is it easy to replace? I figured it was a major part of what was going on, but then since I can't take the rotor off yet anyway... I will try the mallet with more strength tomorrow when it's not late, but I really can't do it right now
busted.JPG <- that is a pic of the broken bolt/stud. Ornery, is it easy to replace? I figured it was a major part of what was going on, but then since I can't take the rotor off yet anyway... I will try the mallet with more strength tomorrow when it's not late, but I really can't do it right now Awesome link there. The socket wrench is loosening the 'torque member' here.
Come on Skoorb, wrestle that thing off like a man!
"Ornery, is it easy to replace?"
Yeah, just punch it out the back with a... punch! Take the head back to the parts store, so they can give you the correct replacement. Take a lug nut with you just to be sure.
Originally posted by: Skoorb
Based on comments here and that motorvate.ca it does indeed look like that huge ass nut should not be touched by me
If the wheel is unevenly torqued on, that will warp the rotor. You need to get the stud fixed.
Skoorb, I have a 96 Maxima. The big nut is not holding the rotor in. Only the lugnuts are holding both the rotor and the wheel. It's just rusted on. You see those two holes on the rotor with no studs coming out? Those are for pushing the rotor out. Find a bolt that fits them, and just screw it in, that will separate the rotor from the hub. You can try liquid wrench and a hammer too. Then just hammer the lug nut out, and put a new one into the hub.
- Sep 29, 2000
- 70,150
- 5
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Yeah I got that part off. It was the rotor that was stuck :QOriginally posted by: Ornery
Awesome link there. The socket wrench is loosening the 'torque member' here.
Come on Skoorb, wrestle that thing off like a man!
A mallet won't do it. Use a large drift, like a 3/4" piece of bar stock and a 32oz hammer. Place the drift on the face
near the studs and strike it smartly, several times around the perimeter. It should shake loose.
You should be able to drive all the studs out with the same drift. Then new ones can be pulled in, using a nut with a stack of washers. Lube the washers as they will need to turn like a bearing. Tighten up the the nut snugly, then strike
its head with the drift/hammer, tighten some more, then strike again. Do it till its home.
Pre-lube the stud & hole before pulling them in.
Done this many times.
Your warped rotors may have been from improperly torqued wheel studs, Roger did recently refer to that, IIRC.
NOTE: First be sure the studs can be driven out, without removing the hub.
near the studs and strike it smartly, several times around the perimeter. It should shake loose.
You should be able to drive all the studs out with the same drift. Then new ones can be pulled in, using a nut with a stack of washers. Lube the washers as they will need to turn like a bearing. Tighten up the the nut snugly, then strike
its head with the drift/hammer, tighten some more, then strike again. Do it till its home.
Pre-lube the stud & hole before pulling them in.
Done this many times.
Your warped rotors may have been from improperly torqued wheel studs, Roger did recently refer to that, IIRC.
NOTE: First be sure the studs can be driven out, without removing the hub.
Zenmervolt
Elite member
- Oct 22, 2000
- 24,514
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- 91
Yeah, I was assuming that the rotors were warped and not just in need of new pads. Honestly, most of the time if you're just replacing pads and nothing has gone wrong you shouldn't even need to re-surface the rotors.
I tend to consider it "re-surfacing" when you just hone the surface for new pads. I don't call it "turning" the rotors unless you have to take off a significant amount because of warpage or other damage.
ZV
I think I bought my set of rotors for $40. and when not on your car, you can use them for your bench press
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