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New odd problem in my haunted PC

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pandemonium

Golden Member
Mar 17, 2011
1,777
76
91
Let's see if I have this correct for the timeline.

Did the system file check run through and find any errors and fix them? Then it was working for ~3 months before the latest issue of the OS not loading? If that's the case, I'm leaning towards saying the SSD is bad and replacing it or sending it in for warranty repairs if that option is still available.
 

Craig234

Lifer
May 1, 2006
38,548
350
126
Let's see if I have this correct for the timeline.

Did the system file check run through and find any errors and fix them? Then it was working for ~3 months before the latest issue of the OS not loading? If that's the case, I'm leaning towards saying the SSD is bad and replacing it or sending it in for warranty repairs if that option is still available.

I don't remember a system file check. But ran fine for months except every month or so it might have the HD stop being recognized. Rebooting fixed that until this time. Trying the boot SSD in another system would presumably help show whether it's the issue. But for now I'm leaning toward replacing the motherboard, again.
 

lakedude

Platinum Member
Mar 14, 2009
2,778
529
126
dMY1JvS
Trying to remove the card it seemed stuck on something and I pulled and a piece of black plastic snapped off something when it came out. I'm not sure what broke but it seems like maybe a clip for the PCI slot - I hope it doesn't cause a problem.
The best thing to do is just pull as hard as you can without first releasing the clip, until it looks like this:

https://imgur.com/dMY1JvS
 
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Craig234

Lifer
May 1, 2006
38,548
350
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OK, there's an important new bit of information. I pulled the SSD from the non-working computer and connected to an older working PC. It booted and ran fine, my files are intact.

This tells me that my theory that it's the MB is much closer to confirmed, the other main theory being some other unknown hardware problem, but not the SSD.
 

techmanc

Golden Member
Aug 20, 2006
1,212
7
81
sorry if this already mentioned I did not read through all 5 pages of this thread but my suggestion would be get another hard drive and reinstall your os and see if they helps.
If it were me I test all my pc components in another pc if your able to see if any of them have your problem and what the situation with the motherboard is it under warranty I assume its not?
 

Craig234

Lifer
May 1, 2006
38,548
350
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sorry if this already mentioned I did not read through all 5 pages of this thread but my suggestion would be get another hard drive and reinstall your os and see if they helps.
If it were me I test all my pc components in another pc if your able to see if any of them have your problem and what the situation with the motherboard is it under warranty I assume its not?

Well, the OS is on an SSD rather than the HD, so it's not easy to see how the HD is involved. When I put the SSD in another PC, it booted ok so the SSD is ok. The MB is under warranty, but it's still a hassle to get a replacement and I'm choosing to pay for the system to be rebuilt. But I got the new MB today, and got advised to get a water cooler, and will do it then.
 

Craig234

Lifer
May 1, 2006
38,548
350
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OK, here's the latest.

I rebuilt the PC with the replacement MB and replaced the cooler with a new model. I did have some difficulty screwing in the cooler, and it lifted off the CPU a few times during the process - not good for the thermal paste - but I don't think it had a lot of pressure that might bend pins on the socket.

I powered it up to see if it'd work - take a guess. It powered up as far as things like the fans and the GPU LED, but no video signal. After 1-2 minutes, it power cycles.

Any diagnostic ideas? I'm about ready to just have someone diagnose and repair.
 

Craig234

Lifer
May 1, 2006
38,548
350
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Ugh, hard time believing this. Motherboard error 55 - RAM. Take out 2 of the 4 stick, and then it boots to the point of the problem I just replaced the motherboard to fix - it brings up a Windows boot screen and spinning dots that keep spinning.
 

Craig234

Lifer
May 1, 2006
38,548
350
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Yes, I'm getting damn close to buying a pre-built and selling the parts of this one. But I hate to do that. But come on. Bent pin type RAM errors AGAIN on motherboard #3????
 

pandemonium

Golden Member
Mar 17, 2011
1,777
76
91
Good grief. I'm sorry man. You've won the lottery on terrible PC building - I've never heard of this many problems from one person alone, much less the same machine.

Is this all with the same CPU? Things aren't looking good for that right now.
 

Craig234

Lifer
May 1, 2006
38,548
350
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Good grief. I'm sorry man. You've won the lottery on terrible PC building - I've never heard of this many problems from one person alone, much less the same machine.

Is this all with the same CPU? Things aren't looking good for that right now.

Yes, all with the same i7-4790k. But it ran ok for months, and the symptoms don't seem to match a CPU issue, and it seems a harder part to go bad. Those motherboard CPU socket pins seem a lot more delicate and likely to have a breakage.
 

pandemonium

Golden Member
Mar 17, 2011
1,777
76
91
Isn't the CPU the only part you haven't tried another of at this point, aside from the boot drive? Maybe visit a local shop and see if they have an extra CPU that will fit that socket you can borrow or buy for cheap.
 

Craig234

Lifer
May 1, 2006
38,548
350
126
Hm. I have a guy who says he'll bring an extra PC and do swapping to isolate the problem for hire - or I see Fry's has an i5-8600K and MB for $239 (maybe $224 after rebate). Maybe I should just get a new CPU and MB instead of the cost of diagnosing and replacing parts (this would be the fourth MB of the same model under warranty...)
 

UsandThem

Elite Member
May 4, 2000
16,068
7,383
146
Hm. I have a guy who says he'll bring an extra PC and do swapping to isolate the problem for hire - or I see Fry's has an i5-8600K and MB for $239 (maybe $224 after rebate). Maybe I should just get a new CPU and MB instead of the cost of diagnosing and replacing parts (this would be the fourth MB of the same model under warranty...)

You'd also have to buy new RAM, as your current board is DDR3.
 

Craig234

Lifer
May 1, 2006
38,548
350
126
Ugh.

I got the new MB. I had a guy who I waited ten days for his schedule to come swap it and help diagnose if needed, and he just didn't show up. So I decided to do it myself.

I've halfway through - CPU and heatsink installed on the new MB, and I'm starting to try to move some cables, but by watching where they were and where they go not to have to find all that again.

I got to the tiny cables, and tried to take one of a few off, and it was two and they're all unsorted now and can go on any which way with no idea which is right.

I'm at the point of wanting to just rip them all out and get the new board in. These cable I always expected would be the worst part. Except that the problem will still happen.
 

Craig234

Lifer
May 1, 2006
38,548
350
126
Ya, it's 2x5 jumper type switches and cables. The MB manual is basically useless on saying what they're for. The MB labels the left of the five "Panel 1" and fourth of the five "SATA_PWR". The cables have labels like "HDD LED" and "SET SW". Who knows what goes where. I did note that only the left 8 of 10 pins had cables.
 

VirtualLarry

No Lifer
Aug 25, 2001
56,587
10,225
126
Those little two-pin header cables, for PWR_ON, PWR_LED, HDD_LED, and RESET_SW, are possibly the most complex thing when building a PC.

Generally, on most modern boards, the pinout is silk-screened right below the 10-pin (one reserved, one NC) header.

Match + and - properly, for the items that require that. (Generally the LEDs, although I've seen a couple instances where the PWR_ON, and RESET_SW had to be polarity-correct as well. Generally, though, those aren't polarized.)

Just get out one of those "reading magnifiers", and muscle your way through it, Craig. You can do it!
 

Craig234

Lifer
May 1, 2006
38,548
350
126
Those little two-pin header cables, for PWR_ON, PWR_LED, HDD_LED, and RESET_SW, are possibly the most complex thing when building a PC.

Generally, on most modern boards, the pinout is silk-screened right below the 10-pin (one reserved, one NC) header.

Match + and - properly, for the items that require that. (Generally the LEDs, although I've seen a couple instances where the PWR_ON, and RESET_SW had to be polarity-correct as well. Generally, though, those aren't polarized.)

Just get out one of those "reading magnifiers", and muscle your way through it, Craig. You can do it!

Hell, I'm not even sure of the right orientation of the jumpers - vertical or horizontal.

One bit of good news though, there is a set of markings above the pins I didn't see before I think will help a bit. Guessing the two-pin-wide jumpers go on horizontally.