my home theater "build" log

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vi edit

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Oct 28, 1999
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I don't have any issues with my equipment using that setup. I've got the tracks mounted to a frame I made out of 2x4's hanging from the floor joists above. I've got the brackets that are around 16" long. My plywood shelving is about 20" deep to accommodate about any type of equipment I'd want to toss in there. That 4" over hang is fine. Most of the weight is still on the bracket and the shelves are anchored down with screws driven up through the bracket and into the shelving. My most heavy piece of equipment is around 35 pounds which is 1/10 the rated weight limit per shelf. They are sturdy.

Get black rails & brackets, use a 3/4" plywood to give you some "meat" to countersink the brackets to with screws, paint it black and call it a day.

You'll have about $20 in rails, $10 per shelf in brackets, and $25 in lumber costs (or $45 if you cut down a sheet of Birch plywood). Under a hundred bucks depending on how many shelves you need.

If you've ever had to mount a 40 pound piece of equipment in a rack on your own without quick rails you'll appreciate the ease of just being able to slap the thing on a shelf and call it a day.

:D
 

Soccerman06

Diamond Member
Jul 29, 2004
5,830
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Careful of the weight you put on those things too. I used those in a shelf in a closet and overloaded the horizontal bar thingies and they came crashing down. Luckily nothing important was on there. More horizontal bars the better, esp when mounting 75lb amps like I would be doing. They also might rattle but only one way to find out for sure.
 

vi edit

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Oct 28, 1999
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Explain what you mean by "overloaded the horizontal bars"?

I don't even use the rail at the top. I just used a big ass 3.5" wood screw that wouldn't pop through the predrilled holes in the vertical rail tracks. If you are worried about that a washer between the screw and the track will help prevent any problems in the future.

Drive that screw right into the stud behind the track every 8" or whatever they are drilled at and those things aren't going anywhere. Per shelf I can sit on them without issue.
 

Soccerman06

Diamond Member
Jul 29, 2004
5,830
5
81
Explain what you mean by "overloaded the horizontal bars"?

I don't even use the rail at the top. I just used a big ass 3.5" wood screw that wouldn't pop through the predrilled holes in the vertical rail tracks. If you are worried about that a washer between the screw and the track will help prevent any problems in the future.

Drive that screw right into the stud behind the track every 8" or whatever they are drilled at and those things aren't going anywhere. Per shelf I can sit on them without issue.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...R=100040392&catEntryId=100040392#.UNFMcXfuEk8

I physically bend 2 of those where it hooks into the track... oops
 

ManBearPig

Diamond Member
Sep 5, 2000
9,173
6
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This is exciting. :awe: When will it all be done? How much do you think you're gonna have spent when its over? I want a room like this in the future.
 

Anubis

No Lifer
Aug 31, 2001
78,712
427
126
tbqhwy.com
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...R=100040392&catEntryId=100040392#.UNFMcXfuEk8

I physically bend 2 of those where it hooks into the track... oops

that is why i orig made a comment about spanning 3 verts instead of 2 per shelf for weight distro. and i still have doubts on putting something like a EP5K or XP5 on them, based on how heavy they are

you could also simply get one of these and call it a day. 36*24*54 should fit in the closet
http://www.uline.com/BL_3921/Black-Wire-Shelving?keywords=Metal Shelving

you can get them in nearly any size, i think they sell them at HD/lowes as well
 
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sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
100,382
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Do not wire yet til you figure out optimal placement. Stereo subs are finicky on placement. Put a sturdy tarp/rug below it so you can drag it.
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,647
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that is why i orig made a comment about spanning 3 verts instead of 2 per shelf for weight distro. and i still have doubts on putting something like a EP5K or XP5 on them, based on how heavy they are

you could also simply get one of these and call it a day. 36*24*54 should fit in the closet
http://www.uline.com/BL_3921/Black-Wire-Shelving?keywords=Metal Shelving

you can get them in nearly any size, i think they sell them at HD/lowes as well

hmmm well yea after reading thoughts about this, and realizing how heavy some of my stuff is (amp is probably 50lbs and receiver is probably too) maybe those wall ones won't be such a great idea after all. i'll look into the shelves you mention above too, as those would look like they should work too. i'm just starting to realize i don't need anything fancy in the closet since it's going to be hidden.

This is exciting. :awe: When will it all be done? How much do you think you're gonna have spent when its over? I want a room like this in the future.

doubt it will ever be "done" since i'm sure i'll keep wanting to do stuff down there lol, but the wiring is going to be started next weekend most likely, and hopefully i will have my speakers shortly as well. but that will make the theater part "done" in a sense. but then i may have to see what's up with some acoustical treatment as well. i saw this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1316623/diy-custom-printed-movie-poster-acoustic-panels-cheap

and really liked that idea and would make some nice wall decor.

Do not wire yet til you figure out optimal placement. Stereo subs are finicky on placement. Put a sturdy tarp/rug below it so you can drag it.

well the wiring is going to be done as far as putting the wires in the wall to wall plates. i will still be able to shift the subs around afterwards since i will still be able to simply plug them into the wall. but my general idea of where i want to place them is up in front somewhere, so i'm planning on wiring an outlet (or more) up there.

i got a couple different keystone faceplates and have a couple different ideas as far as where to put the faceplates go. as of right now i'm planning on putting a 12 keyhole faceplate under the screen in the middle, and running 5 speakers (LCR + 2 subs) to that, and you won't be able to see many wires because of all the speakers up there. however, there is a chance that i may put 3 faceplates in the front area - 1 directly under the screen, then 1 over to the left area of the screen under it, and one under the right, so that the wiring will be cleaner. only problem is, that is going to require more runs behind walls which is going to be tough. so for simplicity reasons i'm planning on just putting 1 large faceplate in the center under the screen where everything will plug into.

then this is going in my closet where all 7 speakers + hdmi cable will be wired to, which will in turn wire to my receiver.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10425&cs_id=1042503&p_id=6907&seq=1&format=2
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
100,382
17,936
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hmmm well yea after reading thoughts about this, and realizing how heavy some of my stuff is (amp is probably 50lbs and receiver is probably too) maybe those wall ones won't be such a great idea after all. i'll look into the shelves you mention above too, as those would look like they should work too. i'm just starting to realize i don't need anything fancy in the closet since it's going to be hidden.



doubt it will ever be "done" since i'm sure i'll keep wanting to do stuff down there lol, but the wiring is going to be started next weekend most likely, and hopefully i will have my speakers shortly as well. but that will make the theater part "done" in a sense. but then i may have to see what's up with some acoustical treatment as well. i saw this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1316623/diy-custom-printed-movie-poster-acoustic-panels-cheap

and really liked that idea and would make some nice wall decor.



well the wiring is going to be done as far as putting the wires in the wall to wall plates. i will still be able to shift the subs around afterwards since i will still be able to simply plug them into the wall. but my general idea of where i want to place them is up in front somewhere, so i'm planning on wiring an outlet (or more) up there.

i got a couple different keystone faceplates and have a couple different ideas as far as where to put the faceplates go. as of right now i'm planning on putting a 12 keyhole faceplate under the screen in the middle, and running 5 speakers (LCR + 2 subs) to that, and you won't be able to see many wires because of all the speakers up there. however, there is a chance that i may put 3 faceplates in the front area - 1 directly under the screen, then 1 over to the left area of the screen under it, and one under the right, so that the wiring will be cleaner. only problem is, that is going to require more runs behind walls which is going to be tough. so for simplicity reasons i'm planning on just putting 1 large faceplate in the center under the screen where everything will plug into.

then this is going in my closet where all 7 speakers + hdmi cable will be wired to, which will in turn wire to my receiver.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10425&cs_id=1042503&p_id=6907&seq=1&format=2

your subs are passive?
 

Anubis

No Lifer
Aug 31, 2001
78,712
427
126
tbqhwy.com
the passive captivator is one of the better deals out there for HT subs its either 1200 or 1500 new depending on the model and you can power a single or 2 with a 300$ amp and have some tremendous output as beast is well aware of.
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,647
6,528
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why not run line level to the amp and shorten the speaker wire run to the sub?

not sure what you mean.

i'm running 12awg speaker wire with a speakon adapter from my amp to the wall jack in my closet.

from there i will run speaker wire from the wall jack in the closet, through the wall, to the wall jack under the screen.

from there i'm going to run speaker wire from the wall jack to the subs with a speakon adapter.

amp will be connected to the receiver via xlr to rca cables.
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
100,382
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not sure what you mean.

i'm running 12awg speaker wire with a speakon adapter from my amp to the wall jack in my closet.

from there i will run speaker wire from the wall jack in the closet, through the wall, to the wall jack under the screen.

from there i'm going to run speaker wire from the wall jack to the subs with a speakon adapter.

amp will be connected to the receiver via xlr to rca cables.


I guess that works too. How long is your speaker run though?
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,647
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I guess that works too. How long is your speaker run though?

like 30 - 40 feet. i'm guessing in the wall. it's kind of hard to gauge it though since there are going to be turns and stuff in the wall, but that would be my guess. may be closer to 30.

what were you suggesting in your first post?
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
100,382
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like 30 - 40 feet. i'm guessing in the wall. it's kind of hard to gauge it though since there are going to be turns and stuff in the wall, but that would be my guess. may be closer to 30.

what were you suggesting in your first post?

keeping the amps as close to the sub as possible. Given the amount of current you are going to draw, longer signal cable is better than longer speaker cable.

You need to get in wall rated speaker wire.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=101-213
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,647
6,528
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keeping the amps as close to the sub as possible. Given the amount of current you are going to draw, longer signal cable is better than longer speaker cable.

You need to get in wall rated speaker wire.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=101-213

i got 12/2 in wall rated speaker wire so i think it will be okay.

i hope so at least lol.

EDIT:

this is the exact item i bought.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10239&cs_id=1023901&p_id=2817&seq=1&format=2
 
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purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,647
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fuuuuuuu i'm going to be annoyed next week when i get all of my wiring and can't hook up my subs immediately. i mean i could but i don't know the exact speaker length i need to cut the wires into until i do the fishing of the wires, and i would hate to cut the wire and have wrong lengths :(

i'm really hoping my buddy and i can get all the wiring done the weekend after xmas before new years. would be awesome to at least have my old speakers hooked up with the subs for our nye party.
 

Anubis

No Lifer
Aug 31, 2001
78,712
427
126
tbqhwy.com
if it cant get done before your party you could always just put your AVR and AMP close to the speakers/subs and use really short runs
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,647
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if it cant get done before your party you could always just put your AVR and AMP close to the speakers/subs and use really short runs

yea i am contemplating doing just that. i know i'm going to need wires the length to run from the wall outlet to the sub which is probably like 5 or so feet. i could always cut 2 5' wires and still have a spool of 90 which should be enough for the 2 wall runs.

i nkow my little brother is drying to hear it hah. he's all into car audio now and thinks his 2 12" subs hit so hard. he's going to be in for a surprise hearing these.
 

Soccerman06

Diamond Member
Jul 29, 2004
5,830
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81
yea i am contemplating doing just that. i know i'm going to need wires the length to run from the wall outlet to the sub which is probably like 5 or so feet. i could always cut 2 5' wires and still have a spool of 90 which should be enough for the 2 wall runs.

i nkow my little brother is drying to hear it hah. he's all into car audio now and thinks his 2 12" subs hit so hard. he's going to be in for a surprise hearing these.

A guy I work with is the same. He has three Alpine 12R and thinks they are the shit. Each of my subs basically has 4db on his entire system. Cant wait to show him what 130db is.

Edit: I dont know how much Id worry about voltage drop, but your looking at 4.4% drop in voltage over 80ft which translates into roughly 100w of power assuming 12ga and 120v/20amp line.
 
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purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,647
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hah yea my brother is just young (20) and doesn't know about HT stuff like this, and i honestly didn't either (or hadn't experienced it) until recently.

i found this shelving unit through a link on avs:

http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?c=&p=40003&cat=3,50659&ap=2

it looks pretty heavy duty and i'm thinking about taking the plunge on it and grabbing some of the 19" shelve things (G).

also i'm not 100% certain, but i'm assuming the hang track (A) is something you would use if you didn't want to screw the uprights (B) to studs, and gives you more options as to where to put the uprights? would you need just 1 of the hang tracks (A) or would you need a couple of them?
 

Aharami

Lifer
Aug 31, 2001
21,205
165
106
FWIW, I am using that type of shelving rails/brackets (home depot) and it is holding up my Onkyo SR876 (50.9 lbs) just fine. I have the rails lagbolted to studs every 12"
 

vi edit

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Oct 28, 1999
62,484
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hah yea my brother is just young (20) and doesn't know about HT stuff like this, and i honestly didn't either (or hadn't experienced it) until recently.

i found this shelving unit through a link on avs:

http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?c=&p=40003&cat=3,50659&ap=2

it looks pretty heavy duty and i'm thinking about taking the plunge on it and grabbing some of the 19" shelve things (G).

also i'm not 100% certain, but i'm assuming the hang track (A) is something you would use if you didn't want to screw the uprights (B) to studs, and gives you more options as to where to put the uprights? would you need just 1 of the hang tracks (A) or would you need a couple of them?

Yeah, that's essentially the same thing as the Rubbermaid Dura/Fast track stuff you get at Home Depot/Lowes that I was talking about earlier. I don't use the hanging rail that goes across the top. I just anchored the vertical rails down to a stud and called it a day.

Those rails & brackets are strong and would easily hold about any AV equipment you would put on there.