My comment on the link posted above by repoman0:
The article brings forward some types of nuts and bolts I was not aware of. Our cars have alloy wheels (neither Aluminum nor steel for the summer tires, and steel for the winters. The nuts are as provided by the car makers and appear to be of some very hard metal alloy that does not rust easily, not simple steel. The article does not appear to speak of those types specifically. It does talk of aluminum, especially of aluminum WHEELS that do NOT have steel inserts in the bolt hole areas. These, understandably, can develop galling in the hole depressions because Aluminum is softer, and removing that unevenness to yield a smooth surface makes most sense if possible. Then you'd have metal-to-metal contact if you do NOT use lube. It also speaks of a particular type of stud nut with a metal coating intended as a built-in lubricant so you do not need to add some other type, although it states clearly that such a coating wears off with repeated tire changes. But for simpler types of nuts and wheels it does not appear to recommend that NO lube be used.
I do note this point, though. There is a hint that SOME specifications of nut torque are made specifically for an UN-lubricated metal-to-metal contact situation. Hence for that, adding lube that reduces friction when tightening may allow the user to over-torque the nut. I have not heard that argument before so I don't know if that is how ALL wheel nut torques are specified. I have always assumed (could be wrong!) that most nut torque specs are meant when the contact surfaces are clean and smooth and can slide as easily as possible under pressure, so that means to me use of a SMALL amount of a lube that is thick enough to NOT seep out and contaminate the surroundings. This would apply both to the threads and to the tapered outer surface of the nut where it contacts the similar surface of the wheel hole. Certainly this must NOT be thread sealer of any kind, but a lubricant only.
For a while I was in the habit of using a thin film of the same anti-seize lubricant on the inner surface of the wheel where it makes contact with the brake rotor, intending that when I removed the wheel later this would ensure it came free easily. Turns out this was entirely counterproductive. Wheel removal was MORE difficult this way, and when I stopped doing that removal is easy. It appears the anti-seize simply dried and hardened over a long time so it acted more like a glue that a release agent! With respect to use on threads and hole bevels this aspect has no impact on installing and initial torque application. It may actually increase the torque needed to REMOVE the nuts later, but that's not an issue. However, this does suggest that cleaning old dirt, lube, or whatever from thread on the bolts and the nuts is a good idea before re-installing them.
Jimminy, I agree with your observations. It happens I also have a ¼" drive torque wrench. I got it specifically for doing an electrical panel installation in a new garage so I could torque every bolt and screw in the panel as specified by the panel and breaker labels. It would be very useful for repairs on smaller mechanicals, of course. I can see its use often in motorcycle and bike repairs, for example. I used it this past summer in repairs to the pump of a pressure washer.
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