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How to "unlid" your athlon 64

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Originally posted by: Doctorweir
Originally posted by: ajshin27
Originally posted by: Doctorweir
File down maybe a solution, but maybe the screws are too long afterwards...
Also considered that first, but the wire trick is much easier and quicker to apply...
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Pics perhaps? If its not too much trouble.
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Here you go...turns out to be better to see than I thought... 🙂
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Ah, thanks Doctorweir, but I ended up just filing down the metal washers. Took a lot of trial and error, but I eventually got it down to a good fit. Its still not perfect, but I dont want to risk filing it too much to where the heatsink crushes the core, so I'll just leave it be. Temps are a lil bit lower then before I took off the IHS, and I gained 30mhz on my overclock. But, for all the trouble I went through and the possibility of ruining my chip, I don't think I would do it again.
 
later tonight will post how to modify the stock bracket to get the stock amd heatsink to work on ihs-less procs
 
Originally posted by: demenion
I just took my IHS off.. but whats the best way to stick it back on? 😛
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Put AS5 on the core and just put the IHS back in place...the downforce of the HSF combined with the rubber leftovers will keep it in place...no need for new glue / silicon / or other stuff IMHO ('cos I leave it off 😉)... 🙂
 
idn't take too long but I did slice off about 5 resistors
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I think this is just too dangerous here at AT. I mean they have xtremesystems for this type of stuff (incidently they ruin HW in just about every other thread too).. I like to give and it seems anandtech in general likes people to have good safe fun not ruin thier HW playing at the margins. Keep in mind lots of kids and not that much sense or money posting here..lets make OCing experiance pleasurable and safe.. Or at least put a large disclaimer at top of thread.
 
Originally posted by: Zebo
idn't take too long but I did slice off about 5 resistors
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I think this is just too dangerous here at AT. I mean they have xtremesystems for this type of stuff (incidently they ruin HW in just about every other thread too).. I like to give and it seems anandtech in general likes people to have good safe fun not ruin thier HW playing at the margins. Keep in mind lots of kids and not that much sense or money posting here..lets make OCing experiance pleasurable and safe.. Or at least put a large disclaimer at top of thread.
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:thumbsup: Lol...we should launch the "Zebo n00b protection initiative thread". Maybe we could also rise a fund for n00b hardware that was KIMA (killed in modding action) by following our silly experiments. :laugh:
 
I've been running my Venice 3000+ naked for a couple of weeks now.
29 degrees idle and ~39 full load. That with 1.55v at 2.6ghz. XP-90 cooler.
 
Originally posted by: phr0m
pictures comming soon didnt have time last night
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I'm very interested in seeing what you have to do to use the stock HSF with an unlidded CPU 😛.

Why do you need to make a modification? Does the cam get in the way?
 
Originally posted by: Zebo
I think this is just too dangerous here at AT. I mean they have xtremesystems for this type of stuff (incidently they ruin HW in just about every other thread too).. I like to give and it seems anandtech in general likes people to have good safe fun not ruin thier HW playing at the margins. Keep in mind lots of kids and not that much sense or money posting here..lets make OCing experiance pleasurable and safe.. Or at least put a large disclaimer at top of thread.
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I ran a "naked" T-bird for years..................

True, if you are all thumbs then don't take off the IHS

BUT

for me it was a 15 minute very easy safe mod and since I am watercooled I don't have to worry about crushing my core with a huge heavy HS.

The caviat/disclaimer is this:

Overclock, overvolt and mod at your discretion, if you break something it is your fault, and yours alone. If you can't handle it buy a Dell.

 
Originally posted by: racinjimy
Originally posted by: Zebo
I think this is just too dangerous here at AT. I mean they have xtremesystems for this type of stuff (incidently they ruin HW in just about every other thread too).. I like to give and it seems anandtech in general likes people to have good safe fun not ruin thier HW playing at the margins. Keep in mind lots of kids and not that much sense or money posting here..lets make OCing experiance pleasurable and safe.. Or at least put a large disclaimer at top of thread.
Click to expand...

I ran a "naked" T-bird for years..................

True, if you are all thumbs then don't take off the IHS

BUT

for me it was a 15 minute very easy safe mod and since I am watercooled I don't have to worry about crushing my core with a huge heavy HS.

The caviat/disclaimer is this:

Overclock, overvolt and mod at your discretion, if you break something it is your fault, and yours alone. If you can't handle it buy a Dell.
Click to expand...


T-Birds do not have an IHS so how is that relevant 😕
 
thanks Philippine Mango for pointing the cooling miss-spelling out , and still havent posted pics of the modified bracket yet becuase of new opteron 165 (to busy messen with it)
 
Thought this thread was interesting, so I'll give it a bump. I have a Zalman 9500, what do you mean by "modified screws". I might wanna do this over the summer. Thanks.
 
Originally posted by: ROcHE
I've been running my Venice 3000+ naked for a couple of weeks now.
29 degrees idle and ~39 full load. That with 1.55v at 2.6ghz. XP-90 cooler.
Click to expand...

How did you manage to get it to work with your XP-90?
I've got an SI-120, which is basically like the XP-120, and I know it would crush my core if I de-lidded it. The first time I installed my SI-120, the pressure was so tight that my Venice's IHS etched a square into the bottom of my heatsink deep enough that you could see the copper where the nickel surface used to be.

IMO, this unlidding mod is a perfect match for air cooling folks who are overclocking Opterons. Once you start getting an Opteron up to 2.9-3.0ghz with 1.5v+, it's the temp and not the chip holding you back. I bet Opteron overclockers could gain 100mhz prime stable or more if they were daring enough to try this. Only problem is the risk.
 
Originally posted by: Avalon
Originally posted by: ROcHE
I've been running my Venice 3000+ naked for a couple of weeks now.
29 degrees idle and ~39 full load. That with 1.55v at 2.6ghz. XP-90 cooler.
Click to expand...

How did you manage to get it to work with your XP-90?
I've got an SI-120, which is basically like the XP-120, and I know it would crush my core if I de-lidded it. The first time I installed my SI-120, the pressure was so tight that my Venice's IHS etched a square into the bottom of my heatsink deep enough that you could see the copper where the nickel surface used to be.

IMO, this unlidding mod is a perfect match for air cooling folks who are overclocking Opterons. Once you start getting an Opteron up to 2.9-3.0ghz with 1.5v+, it's the temp and not the chip holding you back. I bet Opteron overclockers could gain 100mhz prime stable or more if they were daring enough to try this. Only problem is the risk.
Click to expand...

I agree with you. Opteron is like the poster-child for de-lidding your proc. My 146 CAB2E runs at least 10C hotter than my 3700+ SD. Where my 3700+ Primed at 40C@1.65V my 146 Primes at 48C with 1.6V. I'll be popping the lid in the next week or so and I'll post results.
 
Originally posted by: allies
Thought this thread was interesting, so I'll give it a bump. I have a Zalman 9500, what do you mean by "modified screws". I might wanna do this over the summer. Thanks.
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I bought a few 2", 6-32 machine screws, a few 6-32 jam nuts and some knurled 6-32 nuts. Remove the stock retention bracket and set it aside.... you won't need that anymore.....and keep the backlate from the back of the mobo. Remove the 6-32 nuts that are in the backplate and place the 2", 6-32 screws into the backplate and through your mobo. Now put a small plastic washer over the screw and use a 6-32 jam nut to keep the screw in place. The backplate will be a little loose even after you tighten the jam nuts. Now just place your 9500 over the screws using the original zalman bracket and tighten it down with the knurled nuts.

I have found that using 2" screws and 3mm thick washers on the mobo under the jam nut and 3mm thick washers on top of the zalman bracket, that you need to have 15.0mm of the screw showing on top of your knurled nut for the right tension.
 
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