I think stock 2.4 loaded 60 is bit high but acceptable, I am expecting less from Tuniq though. Maybe try reseating that thing. However, don't expect very low temp from even Tuniq on a B3 Q6600 that thing is a small inferno. Also check the RPM on your Tuniq fan. Make sure you using max.
For your case that is an OK install.
For cases where the PSU sits above the Tuniq you need the tuniq's exhaust to be fed into the intake of the rear exhaust fan, i.e. rotate the Tuniq in your photo by 90 degrees counter-clockwise.
This is not a bubble-burster unless you are assuming everyone owns your case. There is no one way to install a Tuniq, case geometry and PSU configuration dictates best airflow positioning of the Tuniq.
Apocalypse23
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- Jul 14, 2003
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Your case gives you the option of having it aligned either blowing straight-up or straight-back.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/...al+Black+Computer+Case
Just don't have it accidentally blowing down towards your vid card. That would be counter-productive for overall case airflow.
Apocalypse23
Golden Member
- Jul 14, 2003
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Well like i previously suggested, try setting the heatsink differently like in this picture:
http://images.anandtech.com/re...rclok-ion/interior.jpg
See if it makes any difference. Can't hurt.
superstition
Platinum Member
- Feb 2, 2008
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Lap it! My Tuniq was not flat on the bottom at all I discovered. It took a lot of lapping but I got it flat and gave it a blurry mirror finish. My CPU spreader was flatter than the Tuniq, but I sanded it down to copper and a near mirror finish (the Tuniq seemed to get shiny more easily... perhaps it's a harder alloy?). My temperatures dropped a lot.
I suggest using automotive sandpaper from Wal-Mart. I bought some wet-dry from Ace and it didn't do as good a job as the Wal-Mart stuff. One piece of 400 from Ace may be OK to get the sink fairly flat, but definitely go to 1000 or higher for the polishing.
Be careful about applying too much pressure once you get to the polishing stage because if you do, you can create deep scratches that force you to spend a lot more time lapping to get them out. The initial flattening stage can be more aggressive. Also, if you buy a cheap 8 1/2 by 11 piece of glass, when you tape it down to a flat surface, put tape all along the edge of the glass so there are no exposed sharp edges. I cut myself twice until I took the time to do this.
I suggest using automotive sandpaper from Wal-Mart. I bought some wet-dry from Ace and it didn't do as good a job as the Wal-Mart stuff. One piece of 400 from Ace may be OK to get the sink fairly flat, but definitely go to 1000 or higher for the polishing.
Be careful about applying too much pressure once you get to the polishing stage because if you do, you can create deep scratches that force you to spend a lot more time lapping to get them out. The initial flattening stage can be more aggressive. Also, if you buy a cheap 8 1/2 by 11 piece of glass, when you tape it down to a flat surface, put tape all along the edge of the glass so there are no exposed sharp edges. I cut myself twice until I took the time to do this.
Those tuniqs are a nightmare to get on right. Those thumb screws (what a joke of a name 
) I needed a pair of pliers and about 30 minutes to get down tight, the backplate threads were soo tight that nomatter what I did, how many times I reseated it and took it apart, just would not turn without a fight. And yes you need to screw them all down to the bitter end, as the thing will slide at any less(atleast alleviating any worries of me crushing the cpu/socket).
) I needed a pair of pliers and about 30 minutes to get down tight, the backplate threads were soo tight that nomatter what I did, how many times I reseated it and took it apart, just would not turn without a fight. And yes you need to screw them all down to the bitter end, as the thing will slide at any less(atleast alleviating any worries of me crushing the cpu/socket).
- Jul 10, 2006
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Bad news, i came home and the comp was of, would not boot, then i realized the mobo was not receiving power, (the red LED was off)
i tried 3 diff PSU's and nothing is getting this thing to power up. I don't think i killed the CPU as the mobo is not even getting any power.
I Was going to submit an "eRMA" with abit but i put in the S/N and its telling me the board is out of warranty. (I just bought it on 1.26 from newegg) I would sent it back to newegg but i cut out the UPC for warranty purposes so im SOL Their.
I guess my only option is to call them Tuesday (are they open Monday?) and argue with them, I do have a receipt from newegg so i should hopefully *crosses fingers* be alright.
anybody have any experience with ABIT and the RMA process?
i tried 3 diff PSU's and nothing is getting this thing to power up. I don't think i killed the CPU as the mobo is not even getting any power.
I Was going to submit an "eRMA" with abit but i put in the S/N and its telling me the board is out of warranty. (I just bought it on 1.26 from newegg) I would sent it back to newegg but i cut out the UPC for warranty purposes so im SOL Their.
I guess my only option is to call them Tuesday (are they open Monday?) and argue with them, I do have a receipt from newegg so i should hopefully *crosses fingers* be alright.
anybody have any experience with ABIT and the RMA process?
too late now, but I was going to ask if the Tuniq tower itself was very hot. If the Tuniq was real hot, then you probably had good contact on the cpu...
well..
I personally think that case is a bit.. cramped.. unless you installed more fans.. The front intake is bad.. horrible circulation.. even with fannage there.. alot of blockage.. bad case choice in my opinion..
Not an enthusiast case.. very nice case.. very decent for stock stuff no oc but I would never have bought it.. sell that case and get an Antec 900.. Looked at your case today.. bought another antec 900 for moms new rig with your processor..
Also I personally dont overclock friends or families computers without a beefy psu like 650 or higher..
And um yeah.. errors are very.. um.. bad..
But other people have the same case and don't have temps that high. Is it really the case causing temps to be more than 10C above what most others are reporting even with lesser heatsinks? Shouldn't the rear and top fan be moving at least enough air to evacuate the heat being dissipated by his heatsink?
True that.. imo yes and no.. Good intake fans with good breathing holes will make a world of difference.. He has a good suckout but the intake dead area/blockage isnt so great.. still must be a bad install but he cant go wrong with a Antec 900..
Could have bought the trusty Zalman CNPS 9700 .. It may be heavy but this things a chiller.. Anybody that isnt happy with a Zalman CNPS 9700 .. Needs thier head examined..
I've had my head examined thank you, get cat scans every six months and they all come out the same, I'm nucking futs.
superstition
Platinum Member
- Feb 2, 2008
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- Sep 28, 2005
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*sigh*
You guys 73 is too hot for any processor. 70C is the recomended max safe point on the IHS because...
The solder which holds the IHS and the Die together has a melting temp of ~73C. You really dont want to keep making that solder change phases from solid to liquid to solid to liquid.
Do you get what i mean? This is why we always say keep it under 70C. Its much healthier on the chip that way.
You guys 73 is too hot for any processor. 70C is the recomended max safe point on the IHS because...
The solder which holds the IHS and the Die together has a melting temp of ~73C. You really dont want to keep making that solder change phases from solid to liquid to solid to liquid.
Do you get what i mean? This is why we always say keep it under 70C. Its much healthier on the chip that way.
Apocalypse23
Golden Member
- Jul 14, 2003
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