- Jan 30, 2008
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The SW20 heat shield has a bunch of folds already in it that make it hard to bend the way I want it to. I'd prefer to start with a clean slate - and Im ok with a little extra work if it gets it done properly.
The SW20 heat shield has a bunch of folds already in it that make it hard to bend the way I want it to. I'd prefer to start with a clean slate - and Im ok with a little extra work if it gets it done properly.
i know! I am absolutley freaking out with excitement now.
And about the cat... check out post #77 lol.
Yeah but why would you want conductivity for an insulator?Aluminum vs Steel vs SS is a no-brainer, aluminum wins by a factor of 4-6 over steel, and by a factor of 10+ over SS in terms of thermal conductivity. It has excellent corrosion resistance, low emissivity, low cost, and low density. Also, it can be engine-turned, brushed, anodized, or polished for appearance.
My suggestion is based on real performance, cost, and aesthetic advantages.
Edit: that heat shielding looks quite complicated, are you going to be able to form aluminum into a shape that will fit well? Or are you going to go flat and space it off the firewall more? Will the stock shield not work as-is? (I'm all for better materials, but not for making extra work!)
Yeah but why would you want conductivity for an insulator?
Man fuzz you got alot to be proud of for this. Wish I could go for a ride with ya!
Awesome DYI on that shift cable! I remember the first time mine broke
It has been a fun journey though, and still have a long ways to go to be at your and Jlee, JCH13, exdeath or SkyKing level. I feel dumb reading your guys' threads. but I find them incredible inspiring.
Uh I've never done anything like what you've done. I've bolted shit on to a stock engine, that's pretty much it. I know my stuff but I've never applied that knowledge to do anything crazy personally.
See, if I see something funny with my exhaust, I just buy a new exhaust piece and bolt it in. You'd go out and buy a mandrel pipe bender, tig welder, 10' of stainless pipe, and god knows what else...
You = "Hmm can't find the right bolt... I know, buy a CNC mill and make the right one!"
Check with me again for crazy project cred when I do my 3S Camry swap or a 5.8 TT build on the Cobra![]()
You're supposed to find the largest muffler possible and use it.
Rice it up! :awe:
I will always be a grasshopper when compared to you, my senseiAwesome job. I think you've passed me by now...if not, really damn close. Can't wait to see the boost run videos :awe:
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I blame it on LEGO. It made me believe that anything I thought of could be created - it just takes imagination to look at a clump of pieces and say "thats exactly it!"
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ew. no. I would rather have near silence (besides the whine of the turbo - that sound is soooo saweet). I am even considering putting a fake '85 N/A stock" looking muffler on just to be more of a sleeper. Sort of a wolf in sheeps clothing.
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Do you guys think i could just cut open that MKII muffler, clean it out, and then weld it back together without issue?? Or is that a pipe dream![]()
Cars are like Legos that way, you can make anything work that you put your mind to. Next up: AWD 2-engine MR2! :awe:
Get a nice, big-diameter free-flowing exhaust that is as light as you can afford. You just added a bunch of weight to the rear of a car that was already rear-biased, lightening the exhaust is the easiest way to get your weight distribution closer to even because it hangs behind the rear axle.
You're really going to want as much exhaust flow as you can stand, it will improve turbo spool-up and prevent boost from dropping off at higher RPMs. The turbo will take much of the noise out of the exhaust in the first place, so muffling isn't such a big deal as it is in a naturally aspirated or supercharged car.