FuzzyDunlops Toyota MR2 MK1.5 build thread.

[FuzzyDunlop]

Put in a big day on Saturday and got a few of the tedious essentials done.

First I finished plumbing and organizing my engine bay. Have a pretty good idea of where everything needs to go. Some things need a little improvisation: like getting the throttle cable to work and getting a Oil Pressure Sensor from a MK1 MR2 to fit a MK2 MR2 engine, and mixing and matching coolant lines till they ran without bending.

Throttle cable attached to the bracket with a piece of bent sheet metal

The engine lift hook need to be ‘adjusted’ to allow for the MK1 pressure sensor to fit. I only cut a small non-essential section of it off that was in the way - don’t know why that piece would be there anyways

Next I cut up the stock MK2 intercooler pipes and rewelded them to the intercooler so that the pipes come straight out instead of curving everywhere

Then I dropped the engine out of the bay and welded the mounts permanent. Im fairly proud of the lower welds against the frame - the upper welds burnt thru the wall so I just lap welded the crap outa them. I think they came out rather well in the end. They just need paint.

Now Im just waiting on an alternator and alternator bracket, a fuel cut defender (helps with manual adjusting boost), heat shielding and intake piping (ordered some mandrel bends online) until I can reinstall the engine. Till then Ill work on cleaning it up a bit and prepping the engine bay. Need to paint the mounts and make some hangers for hoses and other random jobs. Wont be long now till I should be able to try and start it up!

 

[manimal]

Dude looking great. Nice welds too!

Your wrenching really has gotten great fuzzy. Really big improvements from your first posts bro. Wish you were closer so I could come check your car out.

 

[JCH13]

Good progress!

You should really close up all of those welds on the engine mounts, any spot where a weld terminates into a sharp edge of metal is a prime spot for a crack to start. Engine vibrations will make these cracks form and grow very fast too!

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Dude looking great. Nice welds too!

Your wrenching really has gotten great fuzzy. Really big improvements from your first posts bro. Wish you were closer so I could come check your car out.

Thanks!

Good progress!

You should really close up all of those welds on the engine mounts, any spot where a weld terminates into a sharp edge of metal is a prime spot for a crack to start. Engine vibrations will make these cracks form and grow very fast too!

!! ok. will do!

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

where should I run my boost guage vacuum line from? is closer to the turbo better or closer to the throttlebody?

 

[JCH13]

where should I run my boost guage vacuum line from? is closer to the turbo better or closer to the throttlebody?

You should run it down-stream of the throttle plate, that's where it will actually matter. Anywhere on the intake manifold will do.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

You should run it down-stream of the throttle plate, that's where it will actually matter. Anywhere on the intake manifold will do.

ok cool. Thanks! If thats the case I think I know exactly where to run it from. THere is a hose that runs from the back of the intake manifold meant for the A/C idle up - but since I wont have A/C, Ill ditch that (probably sell it, its worth a penny) and hook up the solid line right to there.
Ill be running some solid copper line with mechanical boost guage.

A/C idle up line seen at the very bottom of photo.

 

[JCH13]

That would be a good spot for it. Why are you going to use copper tubing?

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

That would be a good spot for it. Why are you going to use copper tubing?

Didnt know what else to use, found a role of it cheap, will be easy to make bends and shouldnt pinch like plastic or rubber would.
What would work better?

 

[JCH13]

I would suggest something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Gates-Rubber-C...7735969&sr=1-2

Not sure if that's the diameter you'd want in this exact case, but you get the idea. Super easy to work with, especially if you need to get it though a firewall and up onto/into the dash.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

I would suggest something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Gates-Rubber-C...7735969&sr=1-2

Not sure if that's the diameter you'd want in this exact case, but you get the idea. Super easy to work with, especially if you need to get it though a firewall and up onto/into the dash.

Ill try the copper first, since I already have it. I wanted something hard just due to the distance it has to run. If there is ever a problem I will replace it with something like that.

 

[JCH13]

Ill try the copper first, since I already have it. I wanted something hard just due to the distance it has to run. If there is ever a problem I will replace it with something like that.

Fair enough. I would be very concerned about water/salt water corrosion with bare copper lines, especially combined with fatigue failure typical of long hard lines in vibration-rich applications.

It will also have to take up the movement between the engine and chassis under load, I would use a soft line here at the very least.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Fair enough. I would be very concerned about water/salt water corrosion with bare copper lines, especially combined with fatigue failure typical of long hard lines in vibration-rich applications.

It will also have to take up the movement between the engine and chassis under load, I would use a soft line here at the very least.

Oh, I was going to paint the copper line (just some spray can primer - doesnt need to look pretty, just cover it) in hopes of stopping a lot of the green. Also Ill use the rubber hose from the A/C Idle up Valve to run from the intake manifold to the copper line. And there is a plastic hose from the guage as well.
I hope to be able to work a little on it tonight - been busy with girlfriend, work, condo meetings, life.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Heat shielding.

Would a large piece of sheet metal (20gauge maybe) bolted against the front firewall provide good heat shielding? If I left enough space for air to get behind it - and maybe even had some ducting that directed air behind it, I wonder if it would be enough.
I have about 1.5" of clearance between my turbo and the rear firewall - but only about 1" between it and some factory plastic heat shielding. Im thinking I could fit some formed sheet metal in between there to help a little bit.
Or would I be wasting time with that idea?
And if I do put sheet metal in there, what should I coat it with? Just High temp paint?

 

[jlee]

I wouldn't coat it with anything unless you want to change the color.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

I wouldn't coat it with anything unless you want to change the color.

What about rust though? I guess I could find a sheet of stainless and then polish it. That'd look pretty cool, maybe.

 

[jlee]

What about rust though? I guess I could find a sheet of stainless and then polish it. That'd look pretty cool, maybe.

Hm, I've stopped thinking about rust since I moved to the land where cars live forever. Stainless may not be a bad idea.

 

[JCH13]

Heat shielding = aluminum. You want the thin heat shield to dissipate heat quickly. You also want it to be shiny so it doesn't absorb or transmit heat through radiation. An aluminum sheet with a few stand-offs to leave an air gap would work very well.

A fiberglass or kevlar heat shield mat would also work well.

Stainless, or regular steel, wouldn't make a very good heat shield.

 

[jlee]

Heat shielding = aluminum. You want the thin heat shield to dissipate heat quickly. You also want it to be shiny so it doesn't absorb or transmit heat through radiation. An aluminum sheet with a few stand-offs to leave an air gap would work very well.

A fiberglass or kevlar heat shield mat would also work well.

Stainless, or regular steel, wouldn't make a very good heat shield.

I thought my OEM ones were steel, but perhaps not.

 

[JCH13]

They might be, aluminum is still a better heat shield material IMO.

 

[exdeath]

I'm going to come steal your 3SGTE. Thanks for pulling it out of the car and getting it prepped for me. :awe:

 

[Ketchup]

Bumping an awesome thread. Kudos for some great work!

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Had a few shipments come in over the past couple of weeks. One being the long awaited Brake Brackets needed, and the other being the guaranteed not to break axels from Chico Race Works. Three being the proper alternator bracket as I had bought the wrong one back in December.

Here is a photo of the right side engine mount in its completed state.

I managed to get the engine back in the bay. The new alternator and bracket (which combined cost more than what I paid for the parts car )caused some fitment issues getting in, but it was just a matter of taking apart some of the rear suspension - no big deal with a Mk1 Mr2. Looks like a birds nest -what a mess. And I still need to fit an AFM, Air Filter, AND intercooler in there... lol. Have Faith.

I also painted the brakes then installed them with the axels. The brakes need to be hooked up yet.

Here is the copper line that I painted with silver tremclad that is being used for the boost gauge on the dash (not installed yet).

The factory heat shield from the SW20 MR2 is steel sheet metal. Ill try and find some aluminium to use instead as per JCH13’s suggestion. I did have some heat shielding ordered online, but there was a back order on it holding up my shipment of intake piping.

While I wait for the intake piping I may work on getting some sort of exhaust in the works.

 

[Howard]

They might be, aluminum is still a better heat shield material IMO.

This reminds me of the copper vs aluminum debate for heatsinks.

 

[JCH13]

This reminds me of the copper vs aluminum debate for heatsinks.

Aluminum vs Steel vs SS is a no-brainer, aluminum wins by a factor of 4-6 over steel, and by a factor of 10+ over SS in terms of thermal conductivity. It has excellent corrosion resistance, low emissivity, low cost, and low density. Also, it can be engine-turned, brushed, anodized, or polished for appearance.

My suggestion is based on real performance, cost, and aesthetic advantages.

Edit: that heat shielding looks quite complicated, are you going to be able to form aluminum into a shape that will fit well? Or are you going to go flat and space it off the firewall more? Will the stock shield not work as-is? (I'm all for better materials, but not for making extra work!)