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fresh home build coming soon

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I have to make sure it does not fook the view from the home, but I am hopeful I can place it correctly.
Check out these clerestory windows they tossed out there. Pretty cool, not exactly what I was thinking but I like it nonetheless.
ab66a1b62b9b241353a100873594afa5.jpg


These are shed dormers, and probably what I will do for windows. Not exactly these but you get the idea.
D651_2424_000370_DurhamParmeleeRoad17_317_238.jpg
 
This morning I wrote down some numbers on the back of an envelope for building materials for a tentative ~3000 S.F. two story home build.
For framing, subfloor, roof and all the sheeting, sheet rock, interior walls I came up with ~$58000 in basic materials, not counting a couple of glu-lams and all the fasteners and tape and mud.
I had penciled in the expensive pre-membraned wall sheathing so I would not need to tyvek it to dry it in. The roof I did not, but I could double back and add ~$2000 to go that route.
It is early yet but fun to get an idea of the budget to dry it in.
 
skyking said:
This morning I wrote down some numbers on the back of an envelope for building materials for a tentative ~3000 S.F. two story home build.
For framing, subfloor, roof and all the sheeting, sheet rock, interior walls I came up with ~$58000 in basic materials, not counting a couple of glu-lams and all the fasteners and tape and mud.
I had penciled in the expensive pre-membraned wall sheathing so I would not need to tyvek it to dry it in. The roof I did not, but I could double back and add ~$2000 to go that route.
It is early yet but fun to get an idea of the budget to dry it in.
Click to expand...
Are you planning on building this yourself?
Twenty bucks a square foot seems unbelievably low to me. I'll be double that just for framing material on my current project.
 
These are current prices off the HD and Lowes, and I had to go to Menards for the TJI. Nobody around here puts joist prices on line.
64 floor joists were the big ticket at nearly 18K
This is the lumber after concrete is poured etc.
2x6x92 studs are 9
2x6x16' plates are 25.
T&G subfloor is 80, and 3000 SF is 100 sheets.
I used 3/4 for the roof sheeting too, as I prefer that feel on a relatively flat roof pitch.
I know the drill, 3 plates per, extra studs at keys, etc etc.
I just tossed a total WAG at 2x4 interior walls at ~500 linear feet. That is probably way too long.
 
I tallied up permits and fees, the electrical is huge getting it to the house for example, and got to about 40K or so.
I have the form ply hanging around here.
I'll be able to payday this in to dry, before I have to sell the current abode to finish. My plan is to get it at least poured and first floored, then rent nearby for ~6 months to finish it out.
 
Things have taken a little detour into development of the lower part of the property. My RE agent did a market analysis on a proposed short plat of 3 lots off the west end that borders the street, and it looks favorable.
I contacted a surveyor to do the plat work and his estimate seems reasonable, so now we need to arrange a meet with the city planners and get started.
We will need to build a sewer main extension to service those lots and that will also bring it closer to our home site.
I was going to have to foot the bill for a disconnect vault to tap the main power feed along the property, and now I get to share that with the development. Same goes for a potential water main extension.
If all goes as expected with the city, I'll get a design drawn up for the sewer main and put it out to bid. If I don't like the bids I will talk to my boss about doing the job ourselves. We have the equipment and I have the know-how. It is just a bit far afield and I would have to train up some crew for that kind of pipe laying.
These lots will have mountain views to the West, and have water, sewer, power, cable, stubbed up onto the lots and ready for a spec developer. They will be ~10,000 SF lots, a little larger than the typical lots. We might push them a little bigger but the maximum lot size in our zoning is 14,500 SF.
 
We went up there Friday and had a picnic and showed the property to my sisters and a niece on Saturday. The grass was tall and tough, it grew 3' since it was last mowed before the sale. I hacked a path through the 'bat cave' and then folded the mirrors in on the truck, and shuttled the fam up there to the house site. We had a grand time.
PXL-20220724-003316317.jpg


Somebody is giving me a quote to mow the place, and if it is too steep I will rent a Kubota and brush mower at the local rental place and do it myself. It is so close that I can just road the tractor over there and not use a trailer.
It's $300 a day for a ~$24000 tractor/loader/mower. I'll be renting it until we get moved up there. Twice a year will do the trick. It would take me 40 years to justify buying one, but of course I will rationalize the crap out of those numbers. I will wait till I can park it in the new shop, though. 😉
 
i bet that kubota, unless the smallest model is worth more than that.

no amount of justification or math makes it more convenient than owning it yourself! I use my 50 hp Branson at a minimum of twice a week for something or another. Heavy thing? no problem! I would not want anything with a smaller lift capacity or PTO power. previous tractor was 20 hp Allice Chalmers and it was fine, but everything is so much easier with the right amount of power for the weight of the machine.
 
I priced it out. I operate on a completely different theory. I rent really nice expensive new equipment and get jobs done, and then return it. The thing most people buy is just a toy to me. Grading? Get a Cat D3 delivered and do it all in a few days. I have spent half a working lifetime on dozers.
https://www.cat.com/en_US/products/new/equipment/dozers/small-dozers/106100.html

Trenching? Rent the pleasing size of excavator and get it done quickly.
If I can get it done with a 35 sized machine those are 300 a day 1200 a week and they rent me a trailer to move it for $30
For that kind of money I won't ask the boss to use his.
I work a 35 for a living. If it can be done with a 35 I can do it. If it can't, I'll rent what I need.
I snicker when I see a Kubota or similar backhoe attachment trying to do work I can do in a fraction of the time. I still value my time, the concept of buying my own tin swiss army knife to "do it all" ( miserably slowly ) does not fit.
I will buy a diesel tractor with a loader, brush hog, and 3 point angling blade. It does not need to be 4wd or newer as long as parts are still available.
4wd is fine when you need it, but I grew up on the farm and we never had it and managed just fine to do all sorts of work.

This is more my speed:
$4500 Massey Ferguson

But diesel preferred.
 
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old massy's are great.

I skipped the backhoe on my Branson, not worth the money as you say, one day with a rented EX is like 2 weeks with a toy backhoe on an AG style tractor.
4x4 was a must here in the mountain's dealing with snow. tire chains and 4x4 and I can still struggle a bit running the snow blower up a steep icy hill in wet snow, if you slide off its likely the last time you will ever do anything.

I was supporting your position. Excited to see you get going on the project! I hate dealing with the county here, always a crap show, loosing your documents, stuff sitting on peoples desks for months and rude inspectors.
 
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We get some snow up there but not much, and it does not stay long. The elevation is ~330 MSL 🙂 All the rigs are 4wd except my diesel beetle, so a little snow left on the driveway is not a thing.
 
skyking said:
If I was ready I'd go look at this one.
looks like a jewel
Click to expand...

Seen on the local facebook feed:

"Massey Ferguson 40 I believe it’s a 1957 ran great when parked four years ago, no spark now so I can’t get started . Tractor is overall in good condition, tires good, has three point, it won’t take much to get it back to work, or restore for show tractor.
$2500 in Rochester."
 
We got up there to mow the grass and knock down some trees on the access. You can see a before picture from two weekends ago above.
PXL-20220731-184007848.jpg


I have to do some limb pruning from the truck bed and then I can get the travel trailer or dump truck up there without rubbin'.

Looking onto the upper area from the same spot, after much mowing:
PXL-20220731-184027945.jpg


Looking north, east fence line to the right. That tree on the right is on the property.
PXL-20220731-184357972.jpg
 
I am about to start on the design details and I'm looking for a recommendation on home building discussion forums.
@Greenman do you have any suggestions?
This will be a prescriptive design following the IRC.
This little PDF sums it up nicely, there is far more detail in the code itself but you could design from this 17 page PDF.
https://www.ci.warrenton.or.us/site...sidential_prescriptive_wall_bracing_guide.pdf

I have started a discussion with the local building inspector. It's just the one guy so that makes it nice.
 
The only construction related place I visit is a contractors forum, and they're hostile toward DIY folks.

If you're looking for design ideas, they aren't the crowd you want anyway. The simple approach there is to find a floorplan you like and alter as necessary.
I do bit of design work for my own projects, it's not all that tough to do.
 
Greenman said:
The only construction related place I visit is a contractors forum, and they're hostile toward DIY folks.

If you're looking for design ideas, they aren't the crowd you want anyway. The simple approach there is to find a floorplan you like and alter as necessary.
I do bit of design work for my own projects, it's not all that tough to do.
Click to expand...
I posted an innocent-enough post over at Houzz and damn, those folks were rude! Once I figured out the ground rules I think I can hang there.
I really despise all the notchy short wall sections and super complicated roof lines I see. screw that I will have some simple rectangular floors with shed roofs to maximize the solar surface, and very low pitch to preserve my life on the roof. 1.7/12 roof pitch LOL.
 
skyking said:
I posted an innocent-enough post over at Houzz and damn, those folks were rude! Once I figured out the ground rules I think I can hang there.
I really despise all the notchy short wall sections and super complicated roof lines I see. screw that I will have some simple rectangular floors with shed roofs to maximize the solar surface, and very low pitch to preserve my life on the roof. 1.7/12 roof pitch LOL.
Click to expand...
1.7 is an odd number, is there some reason for that?
What sort of roofing do you plan on using? I prefer 3/12 for a low slop roof, composition shingles work well on that pitch. You can go as low as 2/12 but you have to double up the underlayment or go to a synthetic.

The place I just bought is a 12/12 roof, there is no way I'll ever climb up on that.
 
It is what I get with an 8' wall on the low side and a 12' wall on the high side with a 30' span.
If I push it to 3:12 I will need engineering for a taller wall. It may come to that. That would mean a 15' high wall on the high side.
It will have standing seam metal roofing.
 
skyking said:
It is what I get with an 8' wall on the low side and a 12' wall on the high side with a 30' span.
If I push it to 3:12 I will need engineering for a taller wall. It may come to that. That would mean a 15' high wall on the high side.
It will have standing seam metal roofing.
Click to expand...
It would also require a 2x6 wall. 14' is the maximum allowed for 2x4 unless it's horizontally braced.
I assume you're using TJ's for the roof framing? Or do you have intermediate bearing walls?

You can use standing seam on a low slope roof? I have no experience with it as it's almost never used around here in residential.
 
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