Electric Car Conversion

[Bignate603]

That's likely, it'd be as simple as current-limiting the motor. Though my point is that electrical motors hit peak efficiency at very high speeds, and have the low-speed torque to easily accelerate the car, making a transmission largely foolish.

From what I understand he needed the transmission to keep the electric motor in its most efficient range in both slow speed and high speed driving. Also, I think going without a transmission meant that he would have needed a much more expensive motor that could operate for long periods over a very wide RPM band.

The setup he has can drive in stop and go traffic without issues and also hit 75 on the highway without even trying. He's taken me for a spin in it, besides it being incredibly quiet you wouldn't know it was electric. For something that he pieced together in his driveway it works great.

He did have one part of his electronics short out though, some insulation wore through at one point, shorted and blew all his fuses. He rebuilt it over a weekend and improved the insulation over the offending part and it's been running strong since.

Also, I believe that rather than doing things by limiting current draw the controller works by pulse width modulation. So instead of dialing up and down power it just pulses on and off very quickly. If you want more power it makes the on pulses longer.

 

[JCH13]

From what I understand he needed the transmission to keep the electric motor in its most efficient range in both slow speed and high speed driving. Also, I think going without a transmission meant that he would have needed a much more expensive motor that could operate for long periods over a very wide RPM band.

The setup he has can drive in stop and go traffic without issues and also hit 75 on the highway without even trying. He's taken me for a spin in it, besides it being incredibly quiet you wouldn't know it was electric. For something that he pieced together in his driveway it works great.

He did have one part of his electronics short out though, some insulation wore through at one point, shorted and blew all his fuses. He rebuilt it over a weekend and improved the insulation over the offending part and it's been running strong since.

Also, I believe that rather than doing things by limiting current draw the controller works by pulse width modulation. So instead of dialing up and down power it just pulses on and off very quickly. If you want more power it makes the on pulses longer.

That sounds reasonable. Is the output from the PWM motor controller buffered through a capacitor? In my experience it usually is. This effectively current-limits the motor.

 

[sdifox]

As I work for a company that does quite a bit of battery research...

DIY Lithium Ion should only be done by an expert with substantial knowledge, if some things go wrong you could have a nice explosion on your hands.

Lead acid batteries are energy-dense, but not power-dense, you'll need a ton of lead-acid batteries to get the instantaneous power you need to reach 200mph. Though I seriously doubt you can find, or afford, electric motors capable of sustaining the power output that you need to reach 200mph.

Electric motors LOVE to operate at nearly their maximum speed for cooling and electrical efficiency reasons. If you operate an electric motor at peak-power for an extended period of time it is likely to fail unless you invest some serious cash into getting an oil-cooled motor.

Transmissions can be used, though skip the clutch and don't expect it to last very long. For example, a traditional transmission designed for 300hp can probably handle 300lb-ft of torque or so, a 300hp DC electric motor can probably put out damn near 1000+ lb-ft of torque. Any transmission that could handle that will be serious business in terms of both size and money.

Hooking a "really small electric motor" to a transmission just means that you're under-powering your vehicle. IC engines are geared because they have relatively low torque. An electric, particularly DC, motor has oodles of torque at low speeds, so theres no need for a transmission. A normal DC motor can have around 900% or more of it's peak-power torque at 0RPM, some AC motors can have up to 400%.

As for hitting 200mph... figure the Z06 is fairly aerodynamic, and with 400hp it could do 198mph if I'm not mistaken. You'll need your motor(s) to output at 400hp+ continuously to get there. Heat rejection from the motors will be a serious issue, heat rejection for your battery packs will be a serious issue, and total energy in your batteries might not even be adequate.

Making an electric vehicle to do 200mph can be done, though it will be a serious under-taking that will probably take quite a bit of money and probably years of development. Good luck.

I love the idea of wheel mounted motors but then we get into un-sprung weight issues. May not matter much when you have so much torque available on low end.

Just don't hit potholes :biggrin:


Love this thing... Don't know whether there is any new updates to this.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eliica

http://www.eliica.com/English/project/

 

[Howard]

That sounds reasonable. Is the output from the PWM motor controller buffered through a capacitor? In my experience it usually is. This effectively current-limits the motor.

Couldn't you just bypass the cap if the PWM duty cycle approaches 100%?

 

[Pulsar]

Electric motors LOVE to operate at nearly their maximum speed for cooling and electrical efficiency reasons. If you operate an electric motor at peak-power for an extended period of time it is likely to fail unless you invest some serious cash into getting an oil-cooled motor.

Transmissions can be used, though skip the clutch and don't expect it to last very long. For example, a traditional transmission designed for 300hp can probably handle 300lb-ft of torque or so, a 300hp DC electric motor can probably put out damn near 1000+ lb-ft of torque. Any transmission that could handle that will be serious business in terms of both size and money.

Hooking a "really small electric motor" to a transmission just means that you're under-powering your vehicle. IC engines are geared because they have relatively low torque. An electric, particularly DC, motor has oodles of torque at low speeds, so theres no need for a transmission. A normal DC motor can have around 900% or more of it's peak-power torque at 0RPM, some AC motors can have up to 400%.

Seems to me that you need to make up your mind, or be a little more clear. In one statement you say that electric motors love to operate at high rpms - which is absolutely correct. Most high-performance electric motors have integral fans to keep the heat issues under control, and those fans only function well at high RPM.

In the another paragraph you say big motors have great torque. Yet we already know they don't like to be run slowly. So if you use a big DC motor in your car with no transmission (you suggest they wouldn't use one) and you're stuck in stop and go traffic, you're going to be in trouble when your motors overheat and burn out.

Even in the case of the Tesla Roadster (a lightweight sportscar), Tesla intends to use a 2 speed gearbox. However, they are struggling with the engineering challenges involved.

This problem will become even more exacerbated if you need to actually pull a load with your electric car.

Please do not compare this to the hybrid systems where the ICE is doing a large portion of the work. Two different things entirely.

 

[Bignate603]

Seems to me that you need to make up your mind, or be a little more clear. In one statement you say that electric motors love to operate at high rpms - which is absolutely correct. Most high-performance electric motors have integral fans to keep the heat issues under control, and those fans only function well at high RPM.

In the another paragraph you say big motors have great torque. Yet we already know they don't like to be run slowly. So if you use a big DC motor in your car with no transmission (you suggest they wouldn't use one) and you're stuck in stop and go traffic, you're going to be in trouble when your motors overheat and burn out.

Even in the case of the Tesla Roadster (a lightweight sportscar), Tesla intends to use a 2 speed gearbox. However, they are struggling with the engineering challenges involved.

This problem will become even more exacerbated if you need to actually pull a load with your electric car.

Please do not compare this to the hybrid systems where the ICE is doing a large portion of the work. Two different things entirely.

What he said doesn't contradict each other. Electric motors do like to function at high RPMs and they run cooler but not just because of that little fan spinning faster. If I remember correctly as an electric motor spins it creates a certain amount of reverse voltage due to the relative motion between the magnets and windings. This reverse voltage always stays lower than the voltage you're applying across the motor to drive it but it does reduce the current that can flow through the motor. Basically, the resistance of the motor increases as RPM increases. By reducing the current flowing through the motor it reduces both the torque the motor can apply and also the heat that the motor is trying to dissipate. That's why you get max torque low down and lower heat generation high up. I believe that some motors will completely burn themselves out if you don't allow them to spin fast enough.

 

[DougoMan]

I don't know why you are all making this so difficult.

All you need is an 80HP DC motor, which is TINY. It would leave room for batteries in the FRONT (also the trunk duh).

I want this to look and work like an 80HP gas car. Forget 200MPH for now, I'll settle for 100.

I'll try a bigger motor later when I have money to blow.

3 phase AC induction motors are cheap and super powerful, though the electric interference issues worry me. So might just go with DC. Hmmm tough decision. I'll have to check the efficiency of each.

Basically my design is this:

------ (flat bed w/ solar panels on top of 1000 lead acid batteries) ----> TRUCK OR BMW TOWING

You will be able to unhook the trailer for short trips. It's going to be like a huge battery pack. Like a refueling plane for a jet. Same concept.

Genius.

 

[sdifox]

I don't know why you are all making this so difficult.

All you need is an 80HP DC motor, which is TINY. It would leave room for batteries in the FRONT (also the trunk duh).

I want this to look and work like an 80HP gas car. Forget 200MPH for now, I'll settle for 100.

I'll try a bigger motor later when I have money to blow.

3 phase AC induction motors are cheap and super powerful, though the electric interference issues worry me. So might just go with DC. Hmmm tough decision. I'll have to check the efficiency of each.

Basically my design is this:

------ (flat bed w/ solar panels on top of 1000 lead acid batteries) ----> TRUCK OR BMW TOWING

You will be able to unhook the trailer for short trips. It's going to be like a huge battery pack. Like a refueling plane for a jet. Same concept.

Genius.

your ass will be shot dead for being a terrorist...

 

[Bignate603]

I don't know why you are all making this so difficult.

We're not making it overly difficult, we're just explaining difficulties that you haven't incorporated into your plan.

All you need is an 80HP DC motor, which is TINY. It would leave room for batteries in the FRONT (also the trunk duh).

I want this to look and work like an 80HP gas car. Forget 200MPH for now, I'll settle for 100.

I'll try a bigger motor later when I have money to blow.

3 phase AC induction motors are cheap and super powerful, though the electric interference issues worry me. So might just go with DC. Hmmm tough decision. I'll have to check the efficiency of each.

Basically my design is this:

------ (flat bed w/ solar panels on top of 1000 lead acid batteries) ----> TRUCK OR BMW TOWING

You will be able to unhook the trailer for short trips. It's going to be like a huge battery pack. Like a refueling plane for a jet. Same concept.

Genius.

1. You're worrying about motor efficiency before you've figured out how you'll be controlling the motor. How are you going to control the motor? That will affect your choice of AC or DC motors.
2. You're worried about interference from an AC induction motor but you're not worried about going from DC power to 3 phase AC.
3. You're saying that you want to buy an 80 hp motor because you don't want to spend the money on a more powerful motor, yet you want to buy a car body, more than a thousand dollars worth of batteries, a trailer and solar panels. You vastly underestimate the actual cost of all the other pieces that will go in to this.
4. Getting all the batteries into the car is harder than you would think. The amount of power that you're working with gets pretty large and the voltage is high enough to be quite dangerous. When he had his short it melted through a large copper heat spreader, there was metal spatter everywhere. If you screw this up it can easily kill you. Because of that, I don't think its wise to have a connection you're connecting and disconnecting with a trailer. It increases the chance that you'll fry yourself.
5. The solar panels will be effectively useless unless you're planning on letting it sit for weeks to get a charge. The amount of surface area you'd have on a flatbed wouldn't be enough to effectively charge the battery pack in any reasonable amount of time.

Right now you haven't done enough thinking and research to fully understand the problem. If you try buying things and starting a project before you figure all of this out it will just end with you wasting a huge amount of money. Electric conversions cost thousands to do it right, not including the cost of the car and that assumes that you can do a decent amount of fabrication yourself (you've got to weld up frames that can hold hundreds of pounds of batteries, something to support and position the motor, a way to connect the motor to the transmission, etc). If you need to pay someone to do all that you can add a few thousand more on to the cost.

 

[DougoMan]

We're not making it overly difficult, we're just explaining difficulties that you haven't incorporated into your plan.



1. You're worrying about motor efficiency before you've figured out how you'll be controlling the motor. How are you going to control the motor? That will affect your choice of AC or DC motors.

I assume a DC motor takes DC power. I will power it with 8 27 Volt Deep Cell Batteries From my supplier.

Cost: $120 for 56 DC Volts

Total: $880

Motor: $300 at MOST. I bet I can find one for $120 making the total cost $1000.

50MPH is all I need for the prototype.

2. You're worried about interference from an AC induction motor but you're not worried about going from DC power to 3 phase AC.

Don't know enough about electric motors to know what the hell you are talking about. Are you telling me a DC brushless motor converts the electricity to AC at some point? If so, I might consider an AC motor, but I'm skeptical. I'm one of those people that think AC power was a needless invention. Great for power companies, bad for individuals who could easily power their house with DC.

To use an AC motor, I need to convert from AC to DC. That is EXPENSIVE and INEFFICIENT. Two words I do not want associated with my car. Remember I am of the opinion everyone is making their electric cars way too powerful. 40HP is all you need.

3. You're saying that you want to buy an 80 hp motor because you don't want to spend the money on a more powerful motor, yet you want to buy a car body, more than a thousand dollars worth of batteries, a trailer and solar panels. You vastly underestimate the actual cost of all the other pieces that will go in to this.

Bullshit.

Cost of car frame: free

Cost of wood or sheet metal for flat bed: $250

Cost of 100 huge honking lead acid batteries:

$70 x 1000 = $7,000

No, you cannot know where I got the deep cell batteries for that price. That should be enough for 500 miles though. 500 MILES

That will make my car get 10x the range of the $40,000 Volt. Chevy was retarded not to use deep cell battery technology. Probably didn't because Chevron owns the patent, frankly.

4. Getting all the batteries into the car is harder than you would think. The amount of power that you're working with gets pretty large and the voltage is high enough to be quite dangerous. When he had his short it melted through a large copper heat spreader, there was metal spatter everywhere. If you screw this up it can easily kill you. Because of that, I don't think its wise to have a connection you're connecting and disconnecting with a trailer. It increases the chance that you'll fry yourself.

Not if you do it right. Use 0 gauge wire and it will be fine.

I sized them out today and can fit 6 27 volt batteries in the trunk, hopefully four in the front. That is 56 volts x 3 in parallel. Plenty of juice for 40 miles without the battery pack.

Front: ||engine||

Back ||||||

| = battery


You friendly frankly sounds like an idiot for either grounding the car to the frame or else using high gauge (thin) wire.

5. The solar panels will be effectively useless unless you're planning on letting it sit for weeks to get a charge. The amount of surface area you'd have on a flatbed wouldn't be enough to effectively charge the battery pack in any reasonable amount of time.

Bullshit I will be able to generate around 1000 watts on a sunny day, easy. Say 1500 in the summer. Remember the bed will be LOOOONG. I can fit the same panels you put on your roof which are quite cheap now. Basically this thing will charge itself.

Cost: $1000

Also I will have a gas generator on the battery pack. DUH. Don't tell me that ruins the point of the car. I could care less about the environmental impact of my driving. I just want a car that runs on electricity. Fossil fuels are cheap as hell right now. You can't beat a diesel generator for efficiency.

Cost: $1000, conservatively

Right now you haven't done enough thinking and research to fully understand the problem. If you try buying things and starting a project before you figure all of this out it will just end with you wasting a huge amount of money. Electric conversions cost thousands to do it right, not including the cost of the car and that assumes that you can do a decent amount of fabrication yourself (you've got to weld up frames that can hold hundreds of pounds of batteries, something to support and position the motor, a way to connect the motor to the transmission, etc). If you need to pay someone to do all that you can add a few thousand more on to the cost.

Good thing I have $7,000 to spend on this and I can have it running for $1000 + without the killer battery pack.

If I sell these to the public, I might just put the batteries in the bed of a truck. I could fit around 35 I think. That is a 300 mile range.

300 mile range electric car with batteries that will last 10 years and onboard diesel generator for $20,000. Sign me up.

 

[Howard]

sigh

 

[Bignate603]

Don't know enough about electric motors to know what the hell you are talking about.

That pretty much sums up your whole post.

You're a type of person that assumes that because you're not familiar with something it must be easy. If electric cars were easy you'd see more on the road. There are plenty of people out there with more knowledge, experience, and resources than you do that have struggled to make an electric car work yet somehow you think that you can buy some random stuff and slap together a working car that people will pay money for.

If you want to build one do some research. At the rate you're going it's possible that you will kill yourself. I'm being completely serious, if you screw up while wiring your car it can easily be deadly. While it's quite possible that frying yourself on your own creation will be the only way that you'll understand the difficulties of what you're doing it's a pretty harsh learning curve.

You friendly frankly sounds like an idiot for either grounding the car to the frame or else using high gauge (thin) wire.

Hardly. It wasn't the wire that caused the problem. The short occurred inside the motor controller he hand built. Different electrical components had to be put in contact with a heat spreader to dissipate the heat. The issue was that while they needed to be in thermal contact they couldn't be allowed to be in electrical contact. Everything worked well except for one location where a bolt had to pass through the heat spreader. That bolt had been insulated by a rubber sheath that eventually wore through and caused electrical contact. After taking it all apart and looking at it he switched to a hard insulation material that shouldn't wear through like the rubber did.

At this point you haven't even figured out that you need a motor controller so I don't think you can critique his design.

 

[DougoMan]

That pretty much sums up your whole post.

You're a type of person that assumes that because you're not familiar with something it must be easy. If electric cars were easy you'd see more on the road. There are plenty of people out there with more knowledge, experience, and resources than you do that have struggled to make an electric car work yet somehow you think that you can buy some random stuff and slap together a working car that people will pay money for.

If you want to build one do some research. At the rate you're going it's possible that you will kill yourself. I'm being completely serious, if you screw up while wiring your car it can easily be deadly. While it's quite possible that frying yourself on your own creation will be the only way that you'll understand the difficulties of what you're doing it's a pretty harsh learning curve.

Not saying it will be easy. I'm giving myself a month to do it.

Here is an interested article on DC vs AC motors. I will go with DC brush less any day after reading this article.

AC induction is generating too much torque at the start which is going to make a clutch impossible.

I really want this to work with a clutch.

http://www.teslamotors.com/blog/induction-versus-dc-brushless-motors

 

[Bignate603]

Not saying it will be easy. I'm giving myself a month to do it.

Here is an interested article on DC vs AC motors. I will go with DC brush less any day after reading this article.

AC induction is generating too much torque at the start which is going to make a clutch impossible.

I really want this to work with a clutch.

http://www.teslamotors.com/blog/induction-versus-dc-brushless-motors

There's no reason to use a clutch. None, zero, ziltch, nada. When you are not giving the motor power it will freewheel. It has relatively little inertia so you can just shift it without the clutch and rely on the synchros inside the gearbox to spin the unpowered electric motor up to speed.

You take your foot off the accelerator, shift, and then push down on the accelerator.

 

[Howard]

There's no reason to use a clutch. None, zero, ziltch, nada. When you are not giving the motor power it will freewheel. It has relatively little inertia so you can just shift it without the clutch and rely on the synchros inside the gearbox to spin the unpowered electric motor up to speed.

You take your foot off the accelerator, shift, and then push down on the accelerator.

I think he wants a clutch for rowing.

 

[Bignate603]

I think he wants a clutch for rowing.

I think he wants a clutch because he has no idea what he actually needs. For what the kind of car he wants to make it adds negative value. It's another mechanism that he needs to try and incorporate into his new design, it's a component that requires maintenance over the life of the vehicle, and its something that can break.

I also just thought of something, how is he planning on getting power steering or brakes for this truck he's been talking about? Good luck trying to manhandle a modern truck for more than a few minutes without those.

 

[Pulsar]

He's either an epic troll, or so utterly clueless he'll kill himself trying to assemble the car.

Is it really worth arguing about? Both you and I know that he'll never build a damn thing that works.

Hey, just remember he can generate 1000 watts a day! His battery pack is only going to need something on the order of 10 KW to get the performance he wants. Hell, he can drive it once every 3 years!

 

[exdeath]

Another project that will never get off the napkin once that first $100 has to be spent.

There must be 5 min engineering schools popping up all over the place. That or just another high school kid who feels like an engineering genius because he spent his first night with no sleep on Google and Wikipedia. 100+ years and all these other idiots couldn't figure something out so simple and obvious!

Concept and theory, meet my buddy material physics.

First of all you aren't moving a big truck with 40 HP. Or any large car/truck frame, much less a 2,000 lb trailer. Most people who are successful with any sort of electric car project are using much more powerful motors with much lighter chassis, cars like Bugs and CRXs, if not completely self fabricated from aluminum and plastic and bicycle parts.

Second, you can't afford it. Batteries? Motor? Do you have any idea how much 1000+ W worth of photovoltaic solar panels cost?

And no experience at all with anything... you admit to having no clue about electric motors and you base your preference for motor type based on a single article you read on the web and have no comprehension of what your needs are or how any of this stuff works. And you set a laughable one month turn around from concept to finished product?

You are in way over your head. Start small with scale model RC cars and get some real world electrical/mechanical engineering experience first.

 

[IcePickFreak]

There must be 5 min engineering schools popping up all over the place. That or just another high school kid who feels like an engineering genius because he spent his first night with no sleep on Google and Wikipedia. 100+ years and all these other idiots couldn't figure something out so simple and obvious!

It's funny you should mention that. I called him out on that in the $7500 20ton towing capacity muscle car thread when questioning his ability to grasp ^3 = cubed from another of his threads. Now I'm bringing them all together in his electric road train thread. 😵

"Gifted" as in rides the short bus since he's a mech engineer that can't grasp how ^3 is cubed. Actually OP, maybe you could find a used short bus to drive.

I have a funny feeling that 3.14 to the power of three looks like a sphere, not a cube. Can you prove me wrong?

Why everyone assumes x times x times x has to be length times width times height is beyond me. Could be three sides of a triangle.

Supercube. Give me a fucking break.

All I meant by being a good mechanical engineer is that I can take shit apart and put it back together. And modify it as needed.

I'll change my boasting to "pretty decent mechanic" for someone that has had zero training.

That's the same as a mechanical engineering degree, right? :awe:

 

[exdeath]

Any monkey with a pulse can take something apart and remember how to put it back together in reverse. Designing and building those 1000s of individual parts to begin with is a whole 'nother story. Engineers don't put things together, they pay a minimum wage line worker to follow a power point showing how to put it together. You have no clue what an engineer actually is... OMFG I don't even know what else to say. Good luck getting through CFD and FEA with your sphere^3 theory and have fun drilling 10.00mm holes to stick 10.00mm parts into, etc.

/facepalm^3

Everybody is an engineer these days. I would pay good money to see the blank stare on his face after he is sat down in front of Pro/E, Solidworks, Matlab.

/rant

 

[DougoMan]

Any monkey with a pulse can take something apart and remember how to put it back together in reverse. Designing and building those 1000s of individual parts to begin with is a whole 'nother story. Engineers don't put things together, they pay a minimum wage line worker to follow a power point showing how to put it together. You have no clue what an engineer actually is... OMFG I don't even know what else to say. Good luck getting through CFD and FEA with your sphere^3 theory and have fun drilling 10.00mm holes to stick 10.00mm parts into, etc.

/facepalm^3

If you sat down in front of Pro/E, Solidworks, Matlab, your brain would asplode.

Hey I'm with you. My brain would explode. If it's not divisible by 2, 4, 8 or 10 I don't want anything to do with it.

If a manual transmission can take 200ft/lb of torque when I drop the clutch, it can also do so with an electric engine that puts out 200lb/ft of torque.

200lb ft of torque = 200lb ft of torque

did they teach u that in engineering school?


All you guys telling me not to use a clutch and transmission: Have you ever rode a bike?

Think of an electric engine as you. You work less hard shifting gears.

I'll probably end up leaving it is 2nd gear all the time. SO WHAT?

Nice to have the car totally stock and operating like it was meant to. I like shifting it's fun. If you don't get that, go away.


Also, this way if it ends in disaster I can easily put the original engine back in. Hopefully.


With a good DC motor, I should be able to emulate the torque curve of a gas engine. It will be like driving a really fast gas car.

 

[exdeath]

Also, this way if it ends in disaster I can easily put the original engine back in. Hopefully.

That's a great attitude for an engineer. Hey if this guided missile messes up and hits our own vehicles or if the bridge falls down and kills 1,000 people...

With a good DC motor, I should be able to emulate the torque curve of a gas engine. It will be like driving a really fast gas car.

Why on earth would you want to emulate the torque curve of a gas engine with an electric one... the torque curve and rpm range of a gas engine is a completely undesirable side effect of it's operation and an electric motor not producing the same curve is it's biggest advantage...

 

[Howard]

With a good DC motor, I should be able to emulate the torque curve of a gas engine. It will be like driving a really fast gas car.

Jesus Christ, have you ever seen the torque-speed curve for a DC motor?

Hint 1: It's linear.
Hint 2: It goes down.

 

[DougoMan]

That's a great attitude for an engineer. Hey if this guided missile messes up and hits our own vehicles or if the bridge falls down and kills 1,000 people...



Why on earth would you want to emulate the torque curve of a gas engine with an electric one... the torque curve and rpm range of a gas engine is a completely undesirable side effect of it's operation and an electric motor not producing the same curve is it's biggest advantage...

like I said, if you're not a driving enthusiast go away. Shifting gears is a fun pastime for lots of people.

You can wind an electric engine to your exact specifications:

It works like this:

Doug: "I want a DC brushless motor that puts out 200lb ft of torque at 6,500 rpm at 24volts."

Operator: "OK, that will be $250 please. Plus another $200 for the circuit boards. Bwaa haa haa. Buy 50 and get half off."


Not brain surgery my friend.

After that I take the engine out of the car and weld the electric motor to the old motor mounts. After that you fabricate as needed to connect the engine to the drivetrain.
Never said I was an engineer. I'm a designer.

I call engineers when I have problems. Not the other way around.

 

[DougoMan]

Jesus Christ, have you ever seen the torque-speed curve for a DC motor?

Hint 1: It's linear.
Hint 2: It goes down.

You are telling me a DC electric engine generates more torque with fewer amps at a lower RPM? Are you an idiot or are you talking about AC induction motors, which sound great for a washing machine from hell.

I'm touched that you think I am Jesus Christ, though.