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Electric Car Conversion

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like I said, if you're not a driving enthusiast go away. Shifting gears is a fun pastime for lots of people.

You can pry my T-56 from my cold dead hands. Say I'm not a driving enthusiast again.

and weld the electric motor to the old motor mounts.

:awe:

So you're just going to weld directly on the case of an electric motor? No brackets? What about the manufacturer load points and mounting locations of the motor housing? 200 lb-ft torque at 0 RPM is going to grenade your motor housing if it's not mounted and supported correctly. An unknown material even, probably cast aluminum welded directly to a plate steel motor mount? What about distortion of the case from the heat or the delicate windings and magnets on the other side of the weld site? What about your welded motor housing being able to flex and move with the drive train? How do you intend to make sure the motor and transmission are axially aligned perfectly since you don't have the convenience of matching bolt holes and dowels like the original engine? How are you going to mate the output shaft of the motor to the input shaft of the transmission? Weld it? If you fabricate some kind of coupler, what shear strength bolts will you need and how will you make sure the coupler is balanced with the rest of the assembly at high RPM? How thick will the coupler need to be to keep it from flexing under load? Its easy to think of yourself as an engineer when you have that little disk in you hands already provided to you and think it's simple, but you have no idea of the 100s of hours and thought that went into it to get it to you.

Have you ever done any kind of welding before?? Or do you figure that's a minor thing you overlooked that you'll learn as you go like these guys:

medium_3368546821_b43c5a4525_o.jpg


medium_3369371878_b528deef91_o.jpg


medium_3369372078_f825112ca9_o.jpg


Without experience, such a minor thing tossed around nonchalantly like "just welding" something will extend your project by weeks and overrun your budget with destroyed parts. Welding by itself is a separate art all of it's own.

Please tell me what brand motors you will be buying so I can buy stock.
 
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lol. Relax it has mounting brackets, dude. These engines are basically designed for electric vehicles.

It's not an engine.

Are you aware of your state's laws regarding transportation of hazardous material? If you're towing several thousand pounds of batteries, it might be a safe bet that you'll need a commercial driver's license with a hazmat endorsement.

like I said, if you're not a driving enthusiast go away. Shifting gears is a fun pastime for lots of people.
I am a driving enthusiast. 40hp is significantly less than what my motorcycle makes, and would be pathetic in a car or truck trying to lug a ton of batteries around.
 
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Hey I'm with you. My brain would explode. If it's not divisible by 2, 4, 8 or 10 I don't want anything to do with it.

If a manual transmission can take 200ft/lb of torque when I drop the clutch, it can also do so with an electric engine that puts out 200lb/ft of torque.

200lb ft of torque = 200lb ft of torque

did they teach u that in engineering school?


All you guys telling me not to use a clutch and transmission: Have you ever rode a bike?

Think of an electric engine as you. You work less hard shifting gears.

I'll probably end up leaving it is 2nd gear all the time. SO WHAT?

Nice to have the car totally stock and operating like it was meant to. I like shifting it's fun. If you don't get that, go away.


Also, this way if it ends in disaster I can easily put the original engine back in. Hopefully.


With a good DC motor, I should be able to emulate the torque curve of a gas engine. It will be like driving a really fast gas car.

Ok, you seem to still to not grasp why you don't need a clutch. In a gas car the motor need to constantly be spinning so you need to be able disconnect from the wheels when you aren't moving. An electric motor can start and stop without problems.

For a gas powered car if you want to accelerate from a stop quickly you spin the engine up to an RPM that makes a good amount of power and more aggressively let out the clutch. On an electric motor the torque happens at very low RPM. That means that if you spin it up and let out the clutch you'll be in a part of the power curve where you make LESS torque, not more. Also, comparatively an electric motor has no inertia compared to a gas engine with a flywheel. If you spin up the engine and dump the clutch either the RPM will drop down almost immediately to match the wheels or the clutch won't have enough torque capacity and it will slip like crazy.

On top of that you still haven't addressed how you're planning on controlling the motor. You've just mentioned that you'll get "circuit boards' with your motor which will just happen to fit onto the gas engine's motor mounts without modification.

I repeat what I said before, if you actually go through with this it's likely that you will kill yourself. You haven't done enough research to figure out what you need to do.
 
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Couldn't you just bypass the cap if the PWM duty cycle approaches 100%?

When the duty cycle approaches 100% the cap no longer affects the circuit in any significant way, so it is essentially bypassed. It just smooths the controller output, at 100% the output is already smooth so the cap won't do much at all.

Don't even dream about welding anywhere near a DC motor, heat from welding will de-magnetize the magnets. I can imagine many other bad things happening too.

DC motors draw max current at 0rpm, they also generate max torque there too. Get real familiar with these types of plots and what they mean if you're actually going to do this.

BDS-28-38%20Torque%20Curves%20(800x335).png


This is for a small DC motor, but the general characteristics scale up to large DC motors.

Edit: if you approach this project being as caviler as you seem to be you'll probably make a serious mistake and either hurt someone or break something(s) that are very expensive to replace.
 
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After that I take the engine out of the car and weld the electric motor to the old motor mounts. After that you fabricate as needed to connect the engine to the drivetrain.
Never said I was an engineer. I'm a designer.

I call engineers when I have problems. Not the other way around.


OP is just a troll

By any measure, I am a gifted mechanical engineer and would like to put together my own car.
 
Have you ever done any kind of welding before?? Or do you figure that's a minor thing you overlooked that you'll learn as you go like these guys:

medium_3369371878_b528deef91_o.jpg


Without experience, such a minor thing tossed around nonchalantly like "just welding" something will extend your project by weeks and overrun your budget with destroyed parts. Welding by itself is a separate art all of it's own.

Please tell me what brand motors you will be buying so I can buy stock.


those other two pics are just sloppy/nasty/probably leaky, but isn't that one just dangerous?
 
those other two pics are just sloppy/nasty/probably leaky, but isn't that one just dangerous?

Depends, would little bits of metal flying off of a turbine spinning at 150,000rpm, and then the turbine probably self-destructing be dangerous? :awe:
 
You are telling me a DC electric engine generates more torque with fewer amps at a lower RPM? Are you an idiot or are you talking about AC induction motors, which sound great for a washing machine from hell.

I'm touched that you think I am Jesus Christ, though.
Electric engine, lol.

Just go look for yourself, I'm done with your bullshit. Your "project" has been doomed to hell from the get-go.
 
lol. Relax it has mounting brackets, dude. These engines are basically designed for electric vehicles.

You are going to weld the motor in place using it's brackets? Really? Tell us, what material are the brackets on most large industrial DC motors made from, and why is it an absolute HORRIBLE IDEA to weld on them?

Oh please continue. This is f'n hilarious.

$300 for a 40 hp brushless motor? Tell ya what. Put your money where your mouth is. You've already said you're not going to tell us where you're getting your magical super-cheap batteries from. You've already proven on numerous occasions you can do multiplication (8x120 does not equal 880, 2 x 27 does not equal 56, and a sphere has only ONE DIMENSION, its radius or its diameter).

Link to a high horsepower DC motor for $300.

Prove even the SMALLEST bit of your big theory.

Do you even own a welder? What type?

I haven't smiled like this reading an internet wacko in a long long time.
 
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It's not an engine.

Are you aware of your state's laws regarding transportation of hazardous material? If you're towing several thousand pounds of batteries, it might be a safe bet that you'll need a commercial driver's license with a hazmat endorsement.


I am a driving enthusiast. 40hp is significantly less than what my motorcycle makes, and would be pathetic in a car or truck trying to lug a ton of batteries around.

That is why I said he will be shot for being a terrorist. 1000 Lead Acid batteries wired together....why, that's enough to power a Tesla Coil a la Command and Conquer!
 
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That is why I said he will be shot for being a terrorist. 1000 Lead Acid batteries wired together....why, that's enough to power a Tesla Coil a la Command and Conquer!

Or weld your car to another car if you get into a fender-bender!
 
Perhaps he'll initiate a fusion reaction in the middle of the freeway and solve all our energy problems 🙄
 
Perhaps he'll initiate a fusion reaction in the middle of the freeway and solve all our energy problems 🙄

The OP has already done the launch calculations using the NEW math, where ^3 is spherical and not cubed. It's a complex calculation:

fail^3 = failsphere
 
Make darn sure none of you tell him how energetic the reaction is when you mix baking soda and vinegar. God knows what might happens if he finds out.
 
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